New '12 JKUR Owner & some build questions - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 11 Old 05-28-2017, 09:55 PM Thread Starter
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New '12 JKUR Owner & some build questions

Well, I made the switch from TJ to a 2012 JKUR and am excited to beginning planning the build of this new Jeep and having a new forum to join!

Back story, coming from a 4.0 TJ which I built in the garage with bolt on long arm kit, flat belly tummy tuck, Ford 8.8 in the rear, HP Dana 30 in front, 4:10 gears Aussie lockers front & rear, sitting on 33's, with tube fenders, body armor, yada yada yada. I built it to jump to 35 or 36" tires for more hardcore wheeling, but ended up keeping the 33's and never doing as much wheeling as I'd like. That said still loved the build and the finished product. It was the first build of that sort and first Jeep for me (coming from modifying euro sports cars, the Jeep aftermarket scene is quite different but in a great way)!

The new JKUR is s 2012 (build date Jan) 6 speed with 92k on her. Been driving it around town and the such, but already love just how much more enjoyable it is than the TJ, plus new toys are always fun!

Anyhow, what's the point of a thread without pics!?!?

The old TJ which will hopefully be sold this week.





And the new JKUR!
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post #2 of 11 Old 05-28-2017, 09:56 PM Thread Starter
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Reserved #1. Will be editing soon
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post #3 of 11 Old 05-28-2017, 09:56 PM Thread Starter
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Reserved #2 saved for final build/mods.
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post #4 of 11 Old 05-28-2017, 10:34 PM Thread Starter
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Well. . . Just realised I can't edit posts so that plan didn't work so well lol.

So goals for the build:
-Will be on the road 90% of the time and not a "trailer rig".
-This is a "second car" and daily commute is less than 5 miles, so obviously minimal.
-37" tires with 17" wheels most likely
-around 4" lift
-trail use will be slow speed rock crawling and trail rides. Would like the most "flex/articulation" as reasonable without a fully custom built suspension. Not opposed to thinking outside the box though or some fab work to get the best setup for my needs
-want to at least "plan" the build once and try not to build the same rig 3 different times (I know, haha, funny right, "plans")

Maintence:
-All fluids flushed & replaced along with d44 diff armor
-spicer joints replaced
-new synergy HD ball joints
-brake service
-front wheel bearings
-C2 gussets for front d44
-filters, spark plugs, etc


Equipment Plans / Questions (everything open to debate):
-Thinking STT Pro 37" tires
-Looking at Level 8 Pro wheels (don't think beadlocks are where I want to jump to for as much on road driving I'll do). The 17x9 have a 4.5"bs so from what I've read that shouldnt require spacers as well.
-currie/synergy 8 adj "short" control arms (no plans for more thab 4" lift or bigger than 37" tires)
-drag link flip & rear track bar bracket
-extended sway links, brake lines, bump stops, and front drive shaft
-thinking evo coilovers in the front
-torn on what to do for rear suspension, doesn't seem that any of the rear coilovers are done that great given stock mount location, and don't want to fully cut the frame to french in towers. Had thought about the synergy shock extension mount with 4" coils and shock TBD. But open to thoughts and suggestions. Also considered new weld on shock mounts and/or different upper mount point.
-still debating between weld-in or press in sleeves for d44 and/or front truss. Read conflicting opinions about welding the truss and/or how much good the sleeves really do.
-Possibly go with rcv front axle shafts
-Possibly go to PSC hydro assist steering


So, any thoughts or feedback would be appreciated. Not sure what the consensus on evo front c.o. are, or if there seems to be a better option for the control arms or rear setup than what I've been thinking. I've been reading a bunch about different builds, but definitely some bias based on which forum thinks which parts are best. But look forward to talking/thinking through this build.
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post #5 of 11 Old 05-29-2017, 08:53 AM
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IF you want full steering and no rub you want a 3.5" bs wheel. 4.5" are good up to 35". I would not bother with sleeves or the so called trusses out there. Non of them are real trusses that strengthen the whole axle, they are more of a bridge on each side of the diff. Once you break some shafts and bend some flanges you will likely be looking for some tons for a heavy JKU on 37's. Hydraulic assist if you do go 37's will be nice. Personally I would recommend staying on 35's unless you do a lot of rock crawling.

good luck with the build.

Some build info here:
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post #6 of 11 Old 05-29-2017, 09:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mbgt72 View Post
Well. . . Just realised I can't edit posts so that plan didn't work so well lol.

So goals for the build:
-Will be on the road 90% of the time and not a "trailer rig".
-This is a "second car" and daily commute is less than 5 miles, so obviously minimal.
-37" tires with 17" wheels most likely
-around 4" lift
-trail use will be slow speed rock crawling and trail rides. Would like the most "flex/articulation" as reasonable without a fully custom built suspension. Not opposed to thinking outside the box though or some fab work to get the best setup for my needs
-want to at least "plan" the build once and try not to build the same rig 3 different times (I know, haha, funny right, "plans")

Maintence:
-All fluids flushed & replaced along with d44 diff armor
-spicer joints replaced
-new synergy HD ball joints
-brake service
-front wheel bearings
-C2 gussets for front d44
-filters, spark plugs, etc


Equipment Plans / Questions (everything open to debate):
-Thinking STT Pro 37" tires
-Looking at Level 8 Pro wheels (don't think beadlocks are where I want to jump to for as much on road driving I'll do). The 17x9 have a 4.5"bs so from what I've read that shouldnt require spacers as well.
-currie/synergy 8 adj "short" control arms (no plans for more thab 4" lift or bigger than 37" tires)
-drag link flip & rear track bar bracket
-extended sway links, brake lines, bump stops, and front drive shaft
-thinking evo coilovers in the front
-torn on what to do for rear suspension, doesn't seem that any of the rear coilovers are done that great given stock mount location, and don't want to fully cut the frame to french in towers. Had thought about the synergy shock extension mount with 4" coils and shock TBD. But open to thoughts and suggestions. Also considered new weld on shock mounts and/or different upper mount point.
-still debating between weld-in or press in sleeves for d44 and/or front truss. Read conflicting opinions about welding the truss and/or how much good the sleeves really do.
-Possibly go with rcv front axle shafts
-Possibly go to PSC hydro assist steering


So, any thoughts or feedback would be appreciated. Not sure what the consensus on evo front c.o. are, or if there seems to be a better option for the control arms or rear setup than what I've been thinking. I've been reading a bunch about different builds, but definitely some bias based on which forum thinks which parts are best. But look forward to talking/thinking through this build.
you should be able to edit your posts and your original threads. Once you have posted, you should see an 'edit' button alongside "Quote", "Multi-quote" & "Quickreply" options...


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post #7 of 11 Old 05-30-2017, 02:28 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j3ff3ry_j33p View Post
you should be able to edit your posts and your original threads. Once you have posted, you should see an 'edit' button alongside "Quote", "Multi-quote" & "Quickreply" options...


Hmm, no luck. But it may be due to my low post count as a new member. Might change after I hit a certain point.

Anyhow, nice to see you're a local Nashville guy as well. I'm down in the Franklin area so not far at all. Look forward to meeting you sometime at a gtg or on the trail!
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post #8 of 11 Old 05-31-2017, 05:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mbgt72 View Post


Hmm, no luck. But it may be due to my low post count as a new member. Might change after I hit a certain point.

Anyhow, nice to see you're a local Nashville guy as well. I'm down in the Franklin area so not far at all. Look forward to meeting you sometime at a gtg or on the trail!
absolutely!
I always am looking for fellow Jeep owners to go wheel with. Nice to make your acquaintance. I'm out by Pegram so we'll have to go to Wooly's or one of the Alabama parks together.


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post #9 of 11 Old 05-31-2017, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j3ff3ry_j33p View Post
absolutely!
I always am looking for fellow Jeep owners to go wheel with. Nice to make your acquaintance. I'm out by Pegram so we'll have to go to Wooly's or one of the Alabama parks together.
Definitely, I'll shoot ya PM. Looking to take the JKUR out once or twice in relatively stock form before the build anyhow. I know there are a lot of local guys that are great to meet.
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post #10 of 11 Old 05-31-2017, 04:34 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
IF you want full steering and no rub you want a 3.5" bs wheel. 4.5" are good up to 35". I would not bother with sleeves or the so called trusses out there. Non of them are real trusses that strengthen the whole axle, they are more of a bridge on each side of the diff. Once you break some shafts and bend some flanges you will likely be looking for some tons for a heavy JKU on 37's. Hydraulic assist if you do go 37's will be nice. Personally I would recommend staying on 35's unless you do a lot of rock crawling.

good luck with the build.
Thanks for all the help and suggestions Dirtman. I think I may take your advice and just plan for two build phases. First time with 35" tires and supporting needs. And then in a couple years start building some 1ton axles for 37-40" tires and do it everything proper at that time.

Seems to make more sense than being in no-man land with a "strengthened" d44 and dumping money into an axle that won't be under the Jeep for the long haul since consensus seems that no matter what is done to a stock d44 it just doesn't handle trail abuse of 37+" tires.

Only bummer is if buying new wheels now (looking at the Method Racing 105 Beadlocks 17x9" with 3.5"BS), that won't transfer to second phase later on.
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post #11 of 11 Old 05-31-2017, 07:45 PM
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That's sound advice.

Ton of shit, and not listing it all..
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