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post #1 of 103 Old 05-01-2017, 07:38 PM Thread Starter
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WTO Redneck Ram Questions

So I finally caved in and ordered the WTO Redneck Ram today. It's for a DD/trail rig on 37's. Matt at WTO said I didn't need a cooler if I wasn't having issues now with overheating, which I am not.

Did anyone add a cooler anyway, or have a need to add one?

I have heard some guys run upgrades on the lines, etc. What parts, if any, would you change or upgrade from what WTO includes in their kit?

I've never run hydro assist before and just want to make sure I have everything I need so I can do the install once and be done.

Also, what spares for the system are good to keep in the jeep when wheeling?
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post #2 of 103 Old 05-01-2017, 07:40 PM
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I just have a tranny cooler in line psc ram. 39.5s no issues yet

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post #3 of 103 Old 05-01-2017, 08:24 PM
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for 40.00 its a cheap install that can be done relatively easy while your installing the system. Whether you need it or not whats it going to hurt compared to if you don't install one.

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post #4 of 103 Old 05-01-2017, 10:20 PM
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I installed a small radiator (approximately 3" x 12"). I agree you probably don't need it, and I also agree with everyone who says you might as well just install one and do it right the first time.

Other than the return line being removed and replaced with hose + radiator, I used all stock plumbing.


The only spare part you need to carry on the trail is the two AN fitting caps (and it's very important you do carry these, and a little power steering fluid). If you have trail damage, it's most likely going to be either the ram blowing out, or more likely a hose being damaged. In either case, you just remove the hydro assist system and cap off the ports for it and continue down the trail with stock steering.


Make absolutely sure your hoses are not rubbing stuff, including other hoses when you install. Consider suspension cycling too. Some day in many months, you will have a very bad day if your hoses are rubbing.
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post #5 of 103 Old 05-02-2017, 04:28 AM
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This^. I used the lines WTO sent in their kit as trail spares and made my own hoses used aeroquip field srciveable hoses and steel fittings. I use a single pass heatsink cooler by derale. Like mentioned it can't hurt to run a cooler as it also adds a little more fluid capacity. Make sure you keep your caps that some with the box as well. You will need to order a tie rod clamp as well
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post #6 of 103 Old 05-02-2017, 05:27 AM
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I use a Derale cooler, single pass, 14" heat sink style. Put some tabs on the cross member just under the radiator and mounted it there.

Before I had the ram assist, I had bad overheating problems on the steering. Boiled over the fluid quite frequently. When I upgraded to the ram assist, I added the cooler as well just to ensure that this would no longer happen. Cheap insurance.

As mentioned above, I carry extra hydro hoses, fluid and caps for the box.

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post #7 of 103 Old 05-02-2017, 08:16 AM
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I put mine on that cross member too, welded some brackets to mount it to. I used a double pass derale cooler so the inlet and outlet were on the same side.
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post #8 of 103 Old 05-02-2017, 09:27 AM Thread Starter
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Ok thanks for all the Answers!

One last question, what Fluid do you guys use? The swepco Fluid PSC recommends for their systems is available on Amazon should I just order that?
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post #9 of 103 Old 05-02-2017, 12:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biginboca View Post
Ok thanks for all the Answers!

One last question, what Fluid do you guys use? The swepco Fluid PSC recommends for their systems is available on Amazon should I just order that?
You are using the stock pump so go with atf+4. That's what ive been using for 3 years with no issues. there is a reason chrysler recommends atf+4 and not power steering fluid for the stock pump. PSC recommends swepco for their pump which you will not be using
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post #10 of 103 Old 05-02-2017, 01:08 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by CrazyLarry View Post
You are using the stock pump so go with atf+4. That's what ive been using for 3 years with no issues. there is a reason chrysler recommends atf+4 and not power steering fluid for the stock pump. PSC recommends swepco for their pump which you will not be using
Sounds good, thanks!
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post #11 of 103 Old 05-02-2017, 01:42 PM
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ATF+4 here too...no issues on stock pump

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post #12 of 103 Old 05-02-2017, 02:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrazyLarry View Post
This^. I used the lines WTO sent in their kit as trail spares and made my own hoses used aeroquip field srciveable hoses and steel fittings. I use a single pass heatsink cooler by derale. Like mentioned it can't hurt to run a cooler as it also adds a little more fluid capacity. Make sure you keep your caps that some with the box as well. You will need to order a tie rod clamp as well
I've heard you say it more than once, Larry & I have heard others (on JKO) mention having " made my own hoses used aeroquip field srciveable hoses and steel fittings..." & wonder if you have pix or have some resource for showing how to do this; I have searched, finding plenty of information , but so-much that in-fact, I am more confused about hoses & how to make better than the PSC ( or WTO) kits provide once I make this upgrade very soon, as @Biginboca has .
You guys mean making some like in this post @ExWrench made a while back, I think.

Thanks for confirming & 'Boca, thanks for sharing your upgrade...


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post #13 of 103 Old 05-02-2017, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for confirming & 'Boca, thanks for sharing your upgrade...
Jeff, I was going to pm you. The reason I expedited this upgrade is I just booked a trip to Windrock and Blue Ridge (Beasley Knob!) July 15-22. Hopefully can finally get some time inside Beasley Knob! If you will be in the area PM me maybe we can get some trail time.

One last question for those in the know...

I'm browsing coolers. There are some with the -8 An fittings and some with normal barbed looking fittings. Both 14" single pass derale coolers. Does it matter which fittings I get, and is that the right cooler?
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post #14 of 103 Old 05-02-2017, 06:34 PM
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Doesn't matter it's on the low pressure side of the system. Barb would just be easier to do IMO

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post #15 of 103 Old 05-02-2017, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Chappelear View Post
Doesn't matter it's on the low pressure side of the system. Barb would just be easier to do IMO
Ok cool, thanks. I ordered the 14" single pass cooler with barbed fittings and some mopar atf+4 Fluid.

I'm going to do the install using just what WTO provides in their kit plus the cooler I ordered, unless anyone can suggest something else to add...
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post #16 of 103 Old 05-02-2017, 07:29 PM
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you'll need extra hose for the cooler, autozone charged me almost 5.00 a ft for 3/8 hose.

A tie rod clamp would make install easier.

if you have synergy tie rod then you will need low misalignment dust boots

11 JKUR Auto, RIPP SC, Body Armor bumper, Warn XD9000I winch, Synthetic line,XRC Rear Bumper W/carrier, OBA W/1Gal Tank, 10lb CO2, Metalcloak 3.5 springs, Synergy track bar,drag link flip-Tie Rod, control arms and Ball Joints, C-gusset and sleeved, RuffStuff Diff. covers, FOX W\res shocks, Barricade Flat Fenders, 37 12.50\17 BFG KO2, 5.38 Motive gears, Uniden 520xl CB, Yaesu FT7900, Teraflex Big Rotors, Diablo Intune, Dynomax RC exhaust Redneck Ram. W3JEP San Diego Jeep Club-Gulf War Vet. USAF
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post #17 of 103 Old 05-02-2017, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Chappelear View Post
you'll need extra hose for the cooler, autozone charged me almost 5.00 a ft for 3/8 hose.

A tie rod clamp would make install easier.

if you have synergy tie rod then you will need low misalignment dust boots
Great, thanks!

The cooler comes with some hose as a kit on Amazon. This should be fine right?



I have the Synergy tie rod with misalignment boots already installed.

I also have the Synergy tie rod clamp for my current SS. Has the 6x1/4" hex bolt clamp style mounting to the tie rod.



I was thinking I would either weld the redneck ram tabs to that clamp for double shear, or just weld the red neck tabs directly to my Synergy tie rod. Is there any reason to use a clamp instead of welding tabs right to the tie rod?

Last edited by Biginboca; 05-02-2017 at 07:52 PM.
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post #18 of 103 Old 05-02-2017, 07:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j3ff3ry_j33p View Post
I've heard you say it more than once, Larry & I have heard others (on JKO) mention having " made my own hoses used aeroquip field srciveable hoses and steel fittings..." & wonder if you have pix or have some resource for showing how to do this; I have searched, finding plenty of information , but so-much that in-fact, I am more confused about hoses & how to make better than the PSC ( or WTO) kits provide once I make this upgrade very soon, as @Biginboca has .
You guys mean making some like in this post @ExWrench made a while back, I think.

Thanks for confirming & 'Boca, thanks for sharing your upgrade...
Hey j3ff3ry,

Some time after I made the post to which you linked above, I added links to the Aeroquip stuff I used ( see 01/16/15 EDIT) . . .
. . . to my post that I quoted in my post that you just linked to ( or however that shit works )

I probably fucked up recounting what posts were linked, quoted, etc, but what's important is:
Below is a list of the chit I used to make my hoses, which are still trouble-free after a few years
( . . . as I jinx them now by typing that they have been trouble-free )


Quote:
Originally Posted by ExWrench View Post
Initial hydraulic hose routing Ė this helped me get over the loss of the air tank pretty damned quick.
If my hose routing looks odd to you, it's because the hose from the pump is curving forward to the hydraulic winch.
Another hose runs from the winch and feeds the steering box.
Track bar adjuster sleeve only fits with the pinch bolts on top because of the raised track bar / hydro ram mount bracket.

01/16/15 EDIT: I looked up these links for a hydro. thread going on, so I might as well copy/paste here -
Links to Summit detail pages (easiest for me to find/paste quickly) of the hose and the 45, 90, and straight fittings:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AER-FCG0615
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AER-FBM1386
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AER-FBM1389
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AER-FBM1302
Those pages have the Aeroquip part numbers also.

Those^ are the part numbers of the bulk hose and fittings I used to make my high-pressure hoses.


Hoses all buttoned up and hopefully needing nothing for quite a while.
If you are going to spiral-wrap your hoses, it takes a lot less time and effort before installing the hoses.
I did it both ways, and it sucks a lot less when the hoses are not installed yet.
Oh, and X2 on not needing anything special hose-wise for the cooler. Low pressure, hose barbs will work fine, or if cooler is AN fitting-equipped, I'd just run some good push-lock hose. You can go full-retard on the return hose, but it gains you ~nothing.
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post #19 of 103 Old 05-02-2017, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Biginboca View Post
Great, thanks!

The cooler comes with some hose as a kit on Amazon. This should be fine right?
Good to go.


You may need 1 or 2 90's between cooler and hose barbs, depending on where you put your cooler.

I have the Synergy tie rod with misalignment boots already installed.

I also have the Synergy tie rod clamp for my current SS. Has the 6x1/4" hex bolt clamp style mounting to the tie rod.



I was thinking I would either weld the redneck ram tabs to that clamp for double shear, or just weld the red neck tabs directly to my Synergy tie rod. Is there any reason to use a clamp instead of welding tabs right to the tie rod?
I'd weld your tabs to the clamp because:
  • If you bend / tweak / destroy your tie rod, your hydro swaps right on to a stock or another Synergy tie rod with only hand tools
  • You can burn the tabs in well without worrying about weakening the tie rod (I has no TIG )
  • I have no idea why I made this a bulleted list

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post #20 of 103 Old 05-02-2017, 09:11 PM
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I used about 6ft of hose, the kits only come with 3ft

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post #21 of 103 Old 05-02-2017, 09:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biginboca View Post
Jeff, I was going to pm you. The reason I expedited this upgrade is I just booked a trip to Windrock and Blue Ridge (Beasley Knob!) July 15-22. Hopefully can finally get some time inside Beasley Knob! If you will be in the area PM me maybe we can get some trail time.

One last question for those in the know...

I'm browsing coolers. There are some with the -8 An fittings and some with normal barbed looking fittings. Both 14" single pass derale coolers. Does it matter which fittings I get, and is that the right cooler?
that's the news I have been looking for ; that's ample time for me to make sure I'm in Blue ridge at that date , Boca. I'll pm ya...


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post #22 of 103 Old 05-03-2017, 05:00 AM
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Just subscribing for the info before I get around to installing my WTO kit. Still on the fence about a cooler, but the DIY lines is great info!

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post #23 of 103 Old 05-03-2017, 07:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ExWrench View Post
Hey j3ff3ry,

Some time after I made the post to which you linked above, I added links to the Aeroquip stuff I used ( see 01/16/15 EDIT) . . .
. . . to my post that I quoted in my post that you just linked to ( or however that shit works )

I probably fucked up recounting what posts were linked, quoted, etc, but what's important is:
Below is a list of the chit I used to make my hoses, which are still trouble-free after a few years
( . . . as I jinx them now by typing that they have been trouble-free )
Quote:
Originally Posted by ExWrench View Post


Oh, and X2 on not needing anything special hose-wise for the cooler. Low pressure, hose barbs will work fine, or if cooler is AN fitting-equipped, I'd just run some good push-lock hose. You can go full-retard on the return hose, but it gains you ~nothing.


I was a bonehead & had not read further when I commented- big suprise, huh?- thanks, Ex and others; I bet - probably like our DelrayBeach based OP - Im gonna be really grateful for this info & the details w/in 3-4 months time when I convert like Boca has just done.


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post #24 of 103 Old 05-03-2017, 08:18 AM
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Dunno about you guys but HOWE was super adamant about using low pressure push on style hose for the return side on my setup. He said the ID is larger on the low pressure hose even when the AN - # is the same and he was right when I compared the two.

I know my application is not everyone's application but he said the name of the game is to keep the pump fed. Hell my feed line from the reservoir to the pump is a -10, that run of that hose is less than 12" and the reservoir is as high as I could possibly get it per his instructions. The return line from the steering box through the cooler and to the reservoir is all -8 low pressure hose.
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post #25 of 103 Old 05-03-2017, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Dkjeep View Post
Dunno about you guys but HOWE was super adamant about using low pressure push on style hose for the return side on my setup. He said the ID is larger on the low pressure hose even when the AN - # is the same and he was right when I compared the two.

I know my application is not everyone's application but he said the name of the game is to keep the pump fed. Hell my feed line from the reservoir to the pump is a -10, that run of that hose is less than 12" and the reservoir is as high as I could possibly get it per his instructions. The return line from the steering box through the cooler and to the reservoir is all -8 low pressure hose.
My understanding is the hose diameter and routing is only super important for reservoir -> pump connection. That's because it's gravity fed, and if it starves the pump can cavitate. The return line from the steering box to the reservoir should be much less important. Whatever fluid leaves the pump will return to the reservoir through this hose, it's guaranteed. You cannot starve the pump by having this line be thin. It just becomes an efficiency issue where more pressure is required to push the return fluid through the line which generates unnecessary heat.
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