Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Whidbey Island, WA
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An inch/lb. beam torque wrench will also work well for this, and is a lot less expensive than a dial torque wrench.
This is the one I use:
You guys are all on the right page here, but I'd like to add a little more detail.
Getting a torque to rotate reading before the nut is loosened is only part of the process. When the new nut is installed, it gets torqued to 160 ft/lbs, as mentioned above, then more torque is applied in 5 ft/lb increments until the torque to rotate is 5 in/lbs more than the initial reading from before disassembly. If you are able to get the 5 in/lb increase before reaching 200 ft/lbs on the nut, the crush sleeve is OK and is still doing its job. Otherwise, the crush sleeve must be replaced. If you go past the desired torque to rotate, don't back off the nut to bring it in. Get a new crush sleeve and start over.
Lots of people just torque to 160 ft/lbs and call it good. It seems most people get away with it. But then, maybe we just don't hear from them again.
Once in a while, someone will do that, then post about issues that are related to loss of bearing preload.
I use the same type. For the record, mine is made by Park Bike Tools. It's for bicycles lol. The 1/4" drive means you gotta get creative with stepdowns.
Billet 2013 2 door
Dana 60 front, 14 Bolt rear, ARB's, 5.38's, 40" sticky Trepadors, 3 link front and rear, 14" Sway-a-Way coilovers, Tom Woods 1310 front, Adams 1350 rear, PSC Hydro assist