New 2012 MoTech 6.0 JKU owner - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 46 Old 03-04-2017, 10:34 PM Thread Starter
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New 2012 MoTech 6.0 JKU owner

Just bought a JKU that has an iron block 6.0 with 6.2 heads and Trailblazer intake installed by MoTech from a dealership near Dallas. That's all I know about the swap as of now as there was no swap paperwork and the OG owner is out of country.

It runs great, but when I got it, there was a check engine light. I figured out the AeroForce gauge and found P0171, P0174, and P0230. Thought they might of been random codes that might go away once I ran some good gas through it. Maybe the dealer ran bad gas or something?

After reset they stayed away until I accidentally got on it. (Gas pedal is super stiff on initial pressure) When I stopped at the Red Dirt Jeeps meet I found the Bank 1+2 codes had returned, but not the fuel pump code.

At first I thought it was a pump wiring or maybe fuel filter issue, but now I'm not sure where to start. Crawled around under it and didn't see anything obvious.

Then on the way home the scan gauge shutoff and on a few times, so I unplugged it.

Then the cruise control stopped working.

Starting to think there might be something wrong with the PCM???

The battery seems weak or has a possible drain? It's on the tender now.

My first post here, so I hope I'm not going around some forum protocol.

Glad to be here. Been lurking for a while trying to figure out if I wanted a V8 LJ or JKU. When this popped up with a lot of mods I would of done, had to jump on it. Looking forward to learning this platform!

Here's some pics now that I can post links.





























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Last edited by roadh8r; 03-08-2017 at 11:58 PM. Reason: Added pics as post count is over 10.
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post #2 of 46 Old 03-05-2017, 09:52 AM
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Welcome, I'm sure robbie will be along shortly to get you ironed out.

Either way be sure to post up the findings. You came to the right site and there are a lot of us here with ls conversions either already done or in the works. So be sure to share the knowledge as it may help one of us down the line.
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post #3 of 46 Old 03-05-2017, 10:31 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Dkjeep!

My first post on a forum in about 10 years, but I use many to search for information. The one thing that I see as a sad trend now days is threads that have no resolution or updates. I promise I will strive not to be one of those.

This rig is replacing many others as I'm aiming for a vehicle minimalist approach. One rig to do it all? Haha
So I should be around here for awhile and it's no mistake I'm here. Spent many hours on multiple forums searching info and this one seems to be great!

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post #4 of 46 Old 03-05-2017, 12:45 PM
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Robbie is pretty quick to resolve issues with MoTech systems. Overland Performance John P. Shoe is only 7 hours from Dallas, he is reportedly very good also. Have you contacted them to see if there is a common fault?
I always suspect battery charge/grounds, harness connection corrosion or similar before actual mechanical failure.
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post #5 of 46 Old 03-06-2017, 01:26 AM Thread Starter
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I will call tomorrow. Was waiting to hear from the original owner who was supposed to call Saturday before I made any calls. Been lurking around the chevy forums looking for easy things to check for the codes.

I'm in the OKC area, but don't have a problem driving to a pro. Would be great to get these issues cleared up before a long trip. Would even consider driving it out to MoTech to see if there could be some updates or easy upgrades. Again would be nice if there was someone closer they trusted. I'm retired so I've got the time, but the trip would eat into the future mod money. Haha

Hmm
I am planning to head down to Gulfport with the Jeep towards the end of the month though. Maybe a stop in LA is in order?
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post #6 of 46 Old 03-06-2017, 06:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roadh8r View Post
I will call tomorrow. Was waiting to hear from the original owner who was supposed to call Saturday before I made any calls. Been lurking around the chevy forums looking for easy things to check for the codes.

I'm in the OKC area, but don't have a problem driving to a pro. Would be great to get these issues cleared up before a long trip. Would even consider driving it out to MoTech to see if there could be some updates or easy upgrades. Again would be nice if there was someone closer they trusted. I'm retired so I've got the time, but the trip would eat into the future mod money. Haha

Hmm
I am planning to head down to Gulfport with the Jeep towards the end of the month though. Maybe a stop in LA is in order?
I would definitely give John a call @ Overland Performance. I've had my Jeep at his place and he's a stand up guy, you can get ahold of him any time you need and he's very very thorough!! I would not hesitate to take mine back to him for anything LS or Jeep related.

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post #7 of 46 Old 03-06-2017, 07:02 AM
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What battery is in it? Also, be sure to check all of your ground connections.
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post #8 of 46 Old 03-06-2017, 07:07 AM
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Did I speak with you about this Jeep on the phone before you purchased it? If not there was someone else looking at this same exact Jeep asking questions about it.

If you need any help with it feel free to give me a call. I will be at the offroad expo in Dallas this weekend March 11-12 if your in the area stop by and we can chat.
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post #9 of 46 Old 03-06-2017, 09:49 AM
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Can't say I remember this JK, we do not swap heads and intakes on our builds. Give me a call sounds like a MAF calibration/air intake issue and as long as it runs good should be easy to correct.

We run full OE GM diagnostics on the cruise control system so a lean condition would inhibit cruise control.

We had a few bad Aeroforce gauges which would blink out and cause issues, I suggest you unplug the AF gauge and run without it to see if a difference.

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post #10 of 46 Old 03-06-2017, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by cjindna View Post
What battery is in it? Also, be sure to check all of your ground connections.
Very good point. We do not recommend Optima batteries they cause lots of issues do to poor power/ground distribution. One of the reasons we run 14 power distribution circuits and 7 ground distribution circuits is for redundancy and and proper low reference; all that is for naught if the battery has poor separation. We have seen modules damaged by Optima batteries and will require replacement.

Second is dual batteries. We like the Genesis dual battery tray but the Cole Hersey smart isolater can be an issue. The smart electronics monitor charging current and can isolate one battery while driving causing it not to charge. Also if the 12.7V trigger point is not passed properly the batteries may not isolate key off causing a draw and possible no start. We run a power mode module(PMM) to properly wake up and power down the network, this is important to save adaptives and for emission reasons. If the PMM is not functioning properly it can cause a key off draw.

We offer a reliable upgrade for the Genesis smart electronics if anyone is interested in upgrading.

I can say about half my tech support involves dual batteries, dual fuel tanks and Optima batteries.

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post #11 of 46 Old 03-06-2017, 03:51 PM
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Robbie, what do you offer for the genesis dual battery kit? I installed that kit with odyssey batterys and it's been good so far. I only have 1,100 miles on my swap though so far.

08 JKU 6.0 LC8 6L80 Atlas 2 39" KM3's on Trilogy race beadlocks, prorock 44,rcv's arb front. rock jock 60 rear 40spline shafts,arb 5.13's and a bunch of other stuff
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post #12 of 46 Old 03-06-2017, 04:21 PM
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Robbie, what do you offer for the genesis dual battery kit? I installed that kit with odyssey batterys and it's been good so far. I only have 1,100 miles on my swap though so far.
If you need to run AGM batteries the Oddessy's and Northstar's seem to be okay.

We remove the smart isolator and replace it with a simple discrete on-off isolator. Engine running both batteries charge, key off batteries are isolated. We use a 200 continuous rated Cole Hersey relay and a simple trigger wire. You can keep the buss rings if you got them.

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post #13 of 46 Old 03-07-2017, 09:33 PM
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I'm in the OKC area, but don't have a problem driving to a pro.
Hey roadh8r, I didn't see your rig at the RDJ meet up (and I'm always lookin for the V8 swaps) but I am doing that exact swap soon! I got some of the goodies from Robbie last week and trying to find time to start my swap. Job has me on the road quite a bit right now but hope to start soon.

I'm no help on the codes but take up the offers to call in for help. Several of the vendors here are more than willing to try and point you in the right direction on these LS swaps. Good luck tracking down your codes, I'm sure you will figure it out soon and PLEASE post up any info you can. May just come in handy for someone else


SuMo
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post #14 of 46 Old 03-08-2017, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cod View Post
I would definitely give John a call @ Overland Performance. I've had my Jeep at his place and he's a stand up guy, you can get ahold of him any time you need and he's very very thorough!! I would not hesitate to take mine back to him for anything LS or Jeep related.

Link removed because of my Newb post count.
No Multi-quote for me for awhile! Haha

I'll give John a call next to see when he can fit me while I'm down there.
For all I know his shop could of done the swap?
The OG owner is from Houston!
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post #15 of 46 Old 03-08-2017, 10:35 PM Thread Starter
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What battery is in it? Also, be sure to check all of your ground connections.
It's a Die Hard Platinum AGM.

Topped it off and did an amp draw test.

After letting the Jeep sit overnight with the tender on it, I disconnected the negative battery cable and set my multimeter to 20amp unfused.

Got a reading of 1-.85 amps for 45 seconds then it goes down to a steady .25.

Removed the battery to measure for a Group 65 XS Power AGM I just bought for the Cummins. Looks like it may fit with some trimming of the stationary hold down on the inboard side and removing the forward plastic snap-in ramp?

The Die Hard battery charged to 13.1 and has held 12.69 for 48 hours outside the Jeep.

Been working on the Ram and CJ7 to get them ready to sell, so I can pay this thing off while the battery sat.

Tomorrow I'm going to start chasing down this draw and checking ALL connections.
Probably be pulling the entire dash and interior to how all the accessories are hooked up.
Pulled the sub out to see the model# and found that it's an MTX Thunderform with a SURPRISE!!! 200 watt self powered amp... Thing is, I have paperwork (birth cert) from the 5 channel amp Alpine under the driver's seat that says it's been tested to 112 watts per 4 channels and 411 watts to the sub.

This is my 5th indication that there is some questionable electrical work at play.
I'm just a knuckle dragging Aviation Structural Mech. What do I know about electrical? 'Bout to learn!
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post #16 of 46 Old 03-08-2017, 10:49 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 0lllllll0 RPMEXTREME View Post
Did I speak with you about this Jeep on the phone before you purchased it? If not there was someone else looking at this same exact Jeep asking questions about it.

If you need any help with it feel free to give me a call. I will be at the offroad expo in Dallas this weekend March 11-12 if your in the area stop by and we can chat.

Not me. I saw it online and within 24 hours had it back up in OKC.

Thanks RPMEXTREME! That'd be awesome!

Haven't been to an OFF ROAD EXPO since Pamona CA close to 20 years ago, but do SEMA frequently. (Got into road racing)

If I can get this JK figured out by this weekend I might head down that way. Since it's supposed to rain and the CJ got kicked out of the garage, I won't be able to work on it's gas tank or paint to get it ready to sell.
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post #17 of 46 Old 03-08-2017, 10:58 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoTech View Post
Can't say I remember this JK, we do not swap heads and intakes on our builds. Give me a call sounds like a MAF calibration/air intake issue and as long as it runs good should be easy to correct.

We run full OE GM diagnostics on the cruise control system so a lean condition would inhibit cruise control.

We had a few bad Aeroforce gauges which would blink out and cause issues, I suggest you unplug the AF gauge and run without it to see if a difference.
That's good to know on the lean cruise issue, but concerning that you don't recognize the swap. The fact that it was stated in the dealer advertisement that it was done in Las Vegas by MoTech, was one of the points that sold me on this rig.

Quality work though on the swap, no matter who did it!

Maybe he switched out the heads after?

Still haven't heard from the original owner Cary H.

I'll give the guys at AeroForce a shout on the gauge. They seem to be a stand up operation from what I've seen on the SRTForums.


Thanks for the help Robbie!

Mike
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post #18 of 46 Old 03-08-2017, 11:03 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoTech View Post
Very good point. We do not recommend Optima batteries they cause lots of issues do to poor power/ground distribution. One of the reasons we run 14 power distribution circuits and 7 ground distribution circuits is for redundancy and and proper low reference; all that is for naught if the battery has poor separation. We have seen modules damaged by Optima batteries and will require replacement.

Second is dual batteries. We like the Genesis dual battery tray but the Cole Hersey smart isolater can be an issue. The smart electronics monitor charging current and can isolate one battery while driving causing it not to charge. Also if the 12.7V trigger point is not passed properly the batteries may not isolate key off causing a draw and possible no start. We run a power mode module(PMM) to properly wake up and power down the network, this is important to save adaptives and for emission reasons. If the PMM is not functioning properly it can cause a key off draw.

We offer a reliable upgrade for the Genesis smart electronics if anyone is interested in upgrading.

I can say about half my tech support involves dual batteries, dual fuel tanks and Optima batteries.
Been looking at the Rock River Offroad Strongbox for rear dual battery storage to open the engine bay for other goodies.

Do foresee any complications with a mod like this?
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post #19 of 46 Old 03-08-2017, 11:08 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MoTech View Post
If you need to run AGM batteries the Oddessy's and Northstar's seem to be okay.

We remove the smart isolator and replace it with a simple discrete on-off isolator. Engine running both batteries charge, key off batteries are isolated. We use a 200 continuous rated Cole Hersey relay and a simple trigger wire. You can keep the buss rings if you got them.
Interested in the isolator y'all use.

I run the Wrangler NW Power Products one in the CJ and it works great.

Has a dash switch to choose to isolate the start battery completely, connect both even with ignition off, and standard isolate start battery during crank while charging both.
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post #20 of 46 Old 03-08-2017, 11:14 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by sumoslam62 View Post
Hey roadh8r, I didn't see your rig at the RDJ meet up (and I'm always lookin for the V8 swaps) but I am doing that exact swap soon! I got some of the goodies from Robbie last week and trying to find time to start my swap. Job has me on the road quite a bit right now but hope to start soon.

I'm no help on the codes but take up the offers to call in for help. Several of the vendors here are more than willing to try and point you in the right direction on these LS swaps. Good luck tracking down your codes, I'm sure you will figure it out soon and PLEASE post up any info you can. May just come in handy for someone else


SuMo
Got there about 7:30 and left behind the white JKU that was near the sticker tables. She had all the LEDs and a Dixie horn. Lol

Been in the group for few years, but now that I had a vehicle that thought would make the trip, and get me home, I thought I'd go?

Next time I'll let it rip before I park. You won't miss it then. Haha

Look forward to meeting you.
Find me on RDJ.
Mike Peters
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post #21 of 46 Old 03-08-2017, 11:28 PM Thread Starter
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Test to see if I can post a link

Let's see if I can post link and pics now?

This is a crappy pic of the switch modes for the Wrangler NW Power Products dual battery manager system cab switch functions I uaed in the CJ.





Not an install on a Jeep, but a good write-up of the system and functions.
Wrangler 2000 GM Dual Battery Install: Off-Road.com
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post #22 of 46 Old 03-09-2017, 09:34 AM
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I recognize that JK, it belonged to a guy named Cary in TX. Cary picked up his JK in Vegas and drove to Moab, ran it through several trails and had a blast. He drove it back to Texas and loved his JK. Cary wrote me he needed to sell his JK, house and other vehicles due financial reasons but I did not know it went to a dealer. That was a good solid build I put some miles on it as did Cary. There may be some upgrades available for that JK since it's been a while, John at OP or we can help you with it. If it's running lean it could be an air leak or MAF calibration as noted. When it left here it had a stock L96 6.0 installed with the stock calibration. If the engine was modded after that I don't know but it does look like a pretty standard install.
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post #23 of 46 Old 03-11-2017, 03:23 PM Thread Starter
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I recognize that JK, it belonged to a guy named Cary in TX. Cary picked up his JK in Vegas and drove to Moab, ran it through several trails and had a blast. He drove it back to Texas and loved his JK. Cary wrote me he needed to sell his JK, house and other vehicles due financial reasons but I did not know it went to a dealer. That was a good solid build I put some miles on it as did Cary. There may be some upgrades available for that JK since it's been a while, John at OP or we can help you with it. If it's running lean it could be an air leak or MAF calibration as noted. When it left here it had a stock L96 6.0 installed with the stock calibration. If the engine was modded after that I don't know but it does look like a pretty standard install.
Whew! Yes Sir!

I can tell it's been well taken care of. I'm trying to keep up with what he started! Almost like it came off the showroom floor as it is. Sorry to hear that he had to get rid of it over financial reasons. From what the dealer said, he spent a little on his new purchase with upgrades OTD.

Speaking of upgrades. I'll be calling John to make an appointment this week.

Thank you for the engine spec. Was able to do some research after chasing amp draw issue.

Meter now reads .2 on the 200m setting after Jeep goes to sleep!


As for the lean condition. Just got done re-torquing the intake manifold.

Found the torque sequence.

Intake Manifold Bolts (First Pass in Sequence) 44lbin
Intake Manifold Bolts (Final Pass in Sequence) 89lbin


Checking the first pass setting, only the 2 rear 8-9 were to 44lbin. So I'm now assuming that was my lean condition. With both passes completed, I'm sure more than 1 were at least a full turn loose.

-Couple of questions you may have the answer to.

-Any idea what could of led to the P0230 Fuel Pump Primary Circuit Malfunction? It hasn't returned, but it's been on my mind. Is it the stock JK fuel pump?

-Where and what type of fuel filter do y'all use? Sorry, new to this platform and haven't really looked for it. If the lean condition reappears it will be the next thing on my list before I take it to John. Don't want him to have worry about these gremlins, so he can focus on upgrades!

-Is there any adjustment on the gas pedal resistance? Initial pressure is pretty stiff, then it travels easily. Had a guy on the way home in Silverado thinking I was launching on him, so he gassed it. I couldn't resist... Pulled right around him and let off at the posted 55 speed limit. He slowed down and wanted a rematch as I kept it at 55. I'll lube the pivots and see if that helps.

-Still haven't heard from Cary. Does Motech keep any build details? Many unknowns on the rig, but I'm sure if he doesn't get with me I'll figure it out one way or anther.

Thanks for your support Robbie.
If you'd rather me ask questions in another format, PM, email, phone. Let me know.

Mike
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post #24 of 46 Old 03-11-2017, 07:04 PM
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Whew! Yes Sir!

I can tell it's been well taken care of. I'm trying to keep up with what he started! Almost like it came off the showroom floor as it is. Sorry to hear that he had to get rid of it over financial reasons. From what the dealer said, he spent a little on his new purchase with upgrades OTD.

Speaking of upgrades. I'll be calling John to make an appointment this week.

Thank you for the engine spec. Was able to do some research after chasing amp draw issue.

Meter now reads .2 on the 200m setting after Jeep goes to sleep!


As for the lean condition. Just got done re-torquing the intake manifold.

Found the torque sequence.

Intake Manifold Bolts (First Pass in Sequence) 44lbin
Intake Manifold Bolts (Final Pass in Sequence) 89lbin


Checking the first pass setting, only the 2 rear 8-9 were to 44lbin. So I'm now assuming that was my lean condition. With both passes completed, I'm sure more than 1 were at least a full turn loose.

-Couple of questions you may have the answer to.

-Any idea what could of led to the P0230 Fuel Pump Primary Circuit Malfunction? It hasn't returned, but it's been on my mind. Is it the stock JK fuel pump?

-Where and what type of fuel filter do y'all use? Sorry, new to this platform and haven't really looked for it. If the lean condition reappears it will be the next thing on my list before I take it to John. Don't want him to have worry about these gremlins, so he can focus on upgrades!

-Is there any adjustment on the gas pedal resistance? Initial pressure is pretty stiff, then it travels easily. Had a guy on the way home in Silverado thinking I was launching on him, so he gassed it. I couldn't resist... Pulled right around him and let off at the posted 55 speed limit. He slowed down and wanted a rematch as I kept it at 55. I'll lube the pivots and see if that helps.

-Still haven't heard from Cary. Does Motech keep any build details? Many unknowns on the rig, but I'm sure if he doesn't get with me I'll figure it out one way or anther.

Thanks for your support Robbie.
If you'd rather me ask questions in another format, PM, email, phone. Let me know.

Mike
The GM ECM controls the fuel pump for several reasons. We run a sealed Bussman fuse box with two relay's. One relay is the fuel pump and the other the powertrain relay.

The Bussman fuse box is very reliable when compared to the unsealed tower style fuse holders but nothing is without issues. The ECM monitors the fuel pump relay trigger and if it goes out of spec it throws a code. The most common failure is a loose relay or one that is not seated properly. Open the box and push down on all the fuses and relay's to assure they are seated; you will notice over a dozen fuses. Wiggle each fuse and relay, if any are loose we need to tighten them. I have seen relay's get loose after hard wheeling and I know Cary did some of that. If anything is loose take a picture of the fuse box for reference, remove all the fuses and relay's then remove the top girdle to get access to the terminals. We want to tighten each terminal so each blade terminal is a tight fit. Gently pinch each terminal with some needle nose pliers or forceps.

Put it back together, install all the fuses and relay's and make sure they are tight and if any are not we can supply a new terminal. A loose fuel pump relay can also cause a lean condition. There are other causes like a bad relay or wire but the loose relay is most common.

Yes we keep records on every build, I think we upgraded that JK from an AEV lift to a Metalcloak Gamechanger.

A 200ma key off draw can be many things, Spod, powered mirror, trailer brake, radio and even the GM network not properly powered down by the PMM.

Most of our builds run the stock JK fuel pump it's perfect for the 6.0. Both GM and Jeep run about 60 psi fuel pressure and a single feed line with no return. Jeep uses a fuel pressure regulator in the tank while GM uses a variable speed pump. Both work fine and supply enough pressure and volume for 450 HP engine in our experience.

Jeep puts the fuel filter in the tank assembly so it is not so easy to service. The filter does not need replacing very often; if you run in the dirt a lot you can fit an additional filter.

MoTech
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post #25 of 46 Old 03-11-2017, 08:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roadh8r View Post
-Where and what type of fuel filter do y'all use? Sorry, new to this platform and haven't really looked for it. If the lean condition reappears it will be the next thing on my list before I take it to John. Don't want him to have worry about these gremlins, so he can focus on upgrades!
As Robbie mentioned, the fuel filter is inside the tank. Not sure why or if you want to service it. Its a bitch. You have to drop the tank. To do that, run it as low as you can. Even when the needle is well below E there is still a couple of gallons of fuel in the tank. Dropping the tank is best done with two people. If you don't have a second person, run a strap under the rear of the tank to hold it up while you remove the skid plate. After its down, disco all the lines. Power wash every last spec of dirt away from the fitting that holds the pump / filter / sending unit assembly. This is critical as any remaining dirt will fall into the tank when you loosen the collar on the fitting. (Ask me how I know.) The collar requires a special tool from FCA to remove. Its not mandatory, but sure makes it easier. Remove the retaining collar and extract the pump / filter / sending unit assembly. Clean or replace the filter.

But again, not sure why you would want to take on this PITA job. Unless someone put dirt in the gas tank or bought contaminated fuel, the filter should be good for a shit load of miles. I doubt they ever get changed. I seriously doubt it is the cause of your lean condition.
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