I can tell you how I did mine. Good/bad, right/wrong. All I know is that mine work great after doing it this way on my newly installed UD60’s:
Remember brake fluid is cheap, so don’t worry cycling the system more than once.
I started by hooking up new brake lines to the new calipers and used a syringe to gravity fill each one before disconnecting the old brake line/caliper and hooking up the new one. After all 4 were done I blead the brakes in the traditional way.
Since I installed UD60’s I wanted to see what the system would be like with the stock master and booster… It sucked. Downright scary, even after multiple bleedings. Had to pump the pedal to keep from sinking to the floor.
Next I too was worried about air in the ABS. So, first I did the bench bleed on the new MC. Disconnected and capped the lines out of the stock MC and removed and replaced the MC and booster and re-attached the lines. Thinking any air should be in the two lines before the ABS, I went to the pass rear caliper and used the syringe to push about 40cc of fluid into the caliper. I figured that any air would stay at the top of the large calipers for this. My wife watched the fluid come up in the MC reservoir and air bubbles as well. Then the pass front, same deal.
With the help again from the wife, we did the traditional bleed. The pedal is solid and brakes are working great with the 40’s
16 JKU Sport
RK 3.5 X Factor, UD 60's, Atlas T Case 4.3:1,
TR Bead locks with Toyo Open Country MT's,
VKS Bumpers and Sliders. EVO Skins,
PSC Hydro on Synergy Steering,
Fox Shocks and Bumps"40's Baby!"
2011 JKU RUBI "SOLD"