Brake bleeding and the ABS module. - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 5 Old 03-02-2017, 06:01 PM Thread Starter
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Brake bleeding and the ABS module.

I am getting ready to tackle my brake replacement and until recently I had no clue that getting air in the abs module was bad juju. I am replacing the entire brake system besides the ABS module and the hard lines. What I need to know is how specifically to "bench bleed" the new master cylinder and also to flush the lines with fresh fluid. The fluid in there hasn't been touched since it was new in 08' and I would like to freshen it up 100% including everything that is in the lines and ABS module. I am adding new calipers that currently don't have a drop in them as well. Should those be some kind of bench bled as well? I am looking for the best way to get all air out the system and do what I need to do.
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post #2 of 5 Old 03-02-2017, 06:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dkjeep View Post
I am getting ready to tackle my brake replacement and until recently I had no clue that getting air in the abs module was bad juju. I am replacing the entire brake system besides the ABS module and the hard lines. What I need to know is how specifically to "bench bleed" the new master cylinder and also to flush the lines with fresh fluid. The fluid in there hasn't been touched since it was new in 08' and I would like to freshen it up 100% including everything that is in the lines and ABS module. I am adding new calipers that currently don't have a drop in them as well. Should those be some kind of bench bled as well? I am looking for the best way to get all air out the system and do what I need to do.
I would bench bleed the master like normal. Then bleed down thru the abs unit. Pump fluid thru the lines and let the calipers gravity bleed. After that go thru and bleed the brakes like normal. You more than likely will still end up having to do an automated bleed on the system with a scan tool.

You may be able to take it out in the gravel and do panic stops making the abs kick in and hopefully purging some air. then bleed again

If they feel spongy start looking for a scan tool and run the automated bleed procedure


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post #3 of 5 Old 03-02-2017, 08:09 PM
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Did your master come with some plastic fittings? Go get them out of the trash cause you need them.

If you've never done a bench bleed before, here's a simple vid of a guy that does a good job of explaining the how and why.


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post #4 of 5 Old 03-02-2017, 08:12 PM Thread Starter
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I dont have it yet, lol. It's on the road still.

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post #5 of 5 Old 03-02-2017, 10:03 PM
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I can tell you how I did mine. Good/bad, right/wrong. All I know is that mine work great after doing it this way on my newly installed UD60’s:
Remember brake fluid is cheap, so don’t worry cycling the system more than once.
I started by hooking up new brake lines to the new calipers and used a syringe to gravity fill each one before disconnecting the old brake line/caliper and hooking up the new one. After all 4 were done I blead the brakes in the traditional way.
Since I installed UD60’s I wanted to see what the system would be like with the stock master and booster… It sucked. Downright scary, even after multiple bleedings. Had to pump the pedal to keep from sinking to the floor.
Next I too was worried about air in the ABS. So, first I did the bench bleed on the new MC. Disconnected and capped the lines out of the stock MC and removed and replaced the MC and booster and re-attached the lines. Thinking any air should be in the two lines before the ABS, I went to the pass rear caliper and used the syringe to push about 40cc of fluid into the caliper. I figured that any air would stay at the top of the large calipers for this. My wife watched the fluid come up in the MC reservoir and air bubbles as well. Then the pass front, same deal.
With the help again from the wife, we did the traditional bleed. The pedal is solid and brakes are working great with the 40’s

Good luck,
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