Super Duty Driveshafts on a JK. My DIY 1350/1410 shafts on the Cheap - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 12 Old 02-20-2017, 06:53 AM Thread Starter
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Super Duty Driveshafts on a JK. My DIY 1350/1410 shafts on the Cheap

So I am doing a 1 ton swap on my JK and started looking for driveshafts. I am a really big cheap ass and would rather not spend $1400 on a set of shafts so this is what I came up with.

JE Reel 241 drive flanges x2 $198 (Poly Performance)

1350 Ford Super Duty front driveshafts x2 $150 (Local Junkyard)

1410 slip yoke for rear driveshaft Part#: 3-3-5411KX $65 (Summit)

I think I can get away with just having the front shaft short-end and the rear may need to be re-tubed and lengthened. I figured about $300 for all that, so I should have about $800 in everything once I install new joints and everything.

Not bad IMO for a 1350 front and 1350/1410 rear driveshafts. I will keep this updated once they are installed.

2010 JKU Rubicon - 40s - Hesco SC - 60/14b - 5.38s - 3.5" RK - Artec - PSC - Yukon - ect
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post #2 of 12 Old 02-20-2017, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bodie View Post
So I am doing a 1 ton swap on my JK and started looking for driveshafts. I am a really big cheap ass and would rather not spend $1400 on a set of shafts so this is what I came up with.

JE Reel 241 drive flanges x2 $198 (Poly Performance)

1350 Ford Super Duty front driveshafts x2 $150 (Local Junkyard)

1410 slip yoke for rear driveshaft Part#: 3-3-5411KX $65 (Summit)

I think I can get away with just having the front shaft short-end and the rear may need to be re-tubed and lengthened. I figured about $300 for all that, so I should have about $800 in everything once I install new joints and everything.

Not bad IMO for a 1350 front and 1350/1410 rear driveshafts. I will keep this updated once they are installed.
A few thoughts. First, we can get you new 1350's for a lot less than $1400. Second, the front flange needs to be an extended version as a 1350 joint won't clear the t-case. Third - can those shafts be shortened? That is very thin wall material. Lastly, they are like any OE shaft, touch a rock and they will fold. That is a lot to spend for inferior quality shafts. We support minimizing costs with Jeep builds, especially going to tons, but this is one option that doesn't really meet a logical investment criteria.


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post #3 of 12 Old 02-20-2017, 10:28 AM Thread Starter
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A few thoughts. First, we can get you new 1350's for a lot less than $1400. Second, the front flange needs to be an extended version as a 1350 joint won't clear the t-case. Third - can those shafts be shortened? That is very thin wall material. Lastly, they are like any OE shaft, touch a rock and they will fold. That is a lot to spend for inferior quality shafts. We support minimizing costs with Jeep builds, especially going to tons, but this is one option that doesn't really meet a logical investment criteria.
The cheapest 1350 I have seen was $650per shaft, and I figured in $100 for shipping. What do you guys charge for the same type of setup?

You are correct on the front output flange, looks like I will have to get an extended flange. They are about $100.

I have had several factory shafts shortened without issue, and I can also step up the wall thickness on both shafts to 1/4" for about $70.

I dont see how these are inferior quality, the only difference is the wall thickness and that is $70 away from being the same strength or better than these JK specific shafts.

2010 JKU Rubicon - 40s - Hesco SC - 60/14b - 5.38s - 3.5" RK - Artec - PSC - Yukon - ect
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post #4 of 12 Old 02-20-2017, 11:15 AM
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The cheapest 1350 I have seen was $650per shaft, and I figured in $100 for shipping. What do you guys charge for the same type of setup?

You are correct on the front output flange, looks like I will have to get an extended flange. They are about $100.

I have had several factory shafts shortened without issue, and I can also step up the wall thickness on both shafts to 1/4" for about $70.

I dont see how these are inferior quality, the only difference is the wall thickness and that is $70 away from being the same strength or better than these JK specific shafts.
The stock shafts are much larger OD so that they can use thinner material. If you make a shaft of a larger OD the same wall thickness, it is going to be much heavier. There is a limit to how heavy a driveshaft can be. The driveshaft becomes more like a jump rope when it gets too heavy.

I'll PM you a number on new shafts, but we'll be well below the numbers you quoted.


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post #5 of 12 Old 03-22-2017, 03:06 PM Thread Starter
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Got the driveshafts finished up, here is the break down...

2x Front SD 1350 Driveshafts $150

All new U-joints $70

1410 Rear slip Yoke $70

Labor/service cost to retube with heavier tubing and lengthen the rear shaft about 3", shorten the front shaft about 3", press in new u-joints, and balance both shafts $145

JE Reel Tcase drive flanges $190

Total Cost: $625
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post #6 of 12 Old 03-22-2017, 06:14 PM
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Pics?


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post #7 of 12 Old 03-23-2017, 06:55 AM Thread Starter
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Hope this helps someone save some money in the future.

2010 JKU Rubicon - 40s - Hesco SC - 60/14b - 5.38s - 3.5" RK - Artec - PSC - Yukon - ect
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post #8 of 12 Old 03-23-2017, 07:12 AM
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Hope this helps someone save some money in the future.
Do you have pics? I'm curious to see how this was came out and appreciate the knowledge sharing. There have been multiple concerns shared and pics help alleviate some of those for folks looking this path.


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post #9 of 12 Old 03-23-2017, 08:10 AM
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share the wealth of solution discovery through the effective inclusion of images. Pichers plz!


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post #10 of 12 Old 03-23-2017, 08:49 AM Thread Starter
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Ill try to get yall some pics tonight.

2010 JKU Rubicon - 40s - Hesco SC - 60/14b - 5.38s - 3.5" RK - Artec - PSC - Yukon - ect
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post #11 of 12 Old 03-23-2017, 08:51 AM
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Wow, I'm interested to see pictures as well.
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post #12 of 12 Old 03-24-2017, 05:51 AM Thread Starter
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