My Alignment - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 11 Old 02-17-2017, 07:24 AM Thread Starter
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My Alignment

So I got an alignment and I'm not real happy with it . It dosent drive strait but it gets a little squirrel at high speed say 80 . I thought you where supposed to have 4 to 6° and 1/8 toe . What do you think of this report?

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post #2 of 11 Old 02-17-2017, 07:50 AM
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Stock height? What year wrangler?

Looks like you need some AEV geometry correction brackets or something me adjustable control arms?


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post #3 of 11 Old 02-17-2017, 08:20 AM
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Need a bit more caster. I doubt they want to adjust the arms. Dosent even look like they touched the caster.

Maybe im delisional but I have been successful in setting my own alignment in my garage with a tape measure and an angle finder and it comes out pretty damn good.
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post #4 of 11 Old 02-17-2017, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dkjeep View Post
Need a bit more caster. I doubt they want to adjust the arms. Dosent even look like they touched the caster.

Maybe im delisional but I have been successful in setting my own alignment in my garage with a tape measure and an angle finder and it comes out pretty damn good.
Totally agree.
I adjusted mine with a tape measure and a 2x4. later I took it in to get a computer alignment and it was just wasted money. everything was perfect.
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post #5 of 11 Old 02-17-2017, 08:52 AM Thread Starter
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I did my first one that way but I had fixed lowers with adjustable uppers. I now have everything adjustable. When you measure the angle do you use the flat spot on the front of the dif?
It just doesn't feel right. I have all Synergy arms adjustment is so easy!

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post #6 of 11 Old 02-17-2017, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tapcola View Post
I did my first one that way but I had fixed lowers with adjustable uppers. I now have everything adjustable. When you measure the angle do you use the flat spot on the front of the dif?
It just doesn't feel right. I have all Synergy arms adjustment is so easy!

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Now that you know your caster, you can keep track of how much you move it with the adjustable arms. It doesn't matter where you plant your angle finder as long as you use the same spot all the time. Write down the amount of change then add or subtract from the alignment rack reading.

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post #7 of 11 Old 02-17-2017, 09:12 AM
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You don't know exactly how much degrees of separation there is on that particular axle. You know what it's supposed to be but like everything else there are variances so I wouldnt use the flats on the front of the axle. You need to take the degree reading from the top of the knuckle where the top ball joint seats. Dial the arms back until it's around 4 degrees.

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post #8 of 11 Old 02-17-2017, 09:14 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dkjeep View Post
You don't know exactly how much degrees of separation there is on that particular axle. You know what it's supposed to be but like everything else there are variances so I wouldnt use the flats on the front of the axle. You need to take the degree reading from the top of the knuckle where the top ball joint seats. Dial the arms back until it's around 4 degrees.

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+ or -?

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post #9 of 11 Old 02-17-2017, 09:18 AM
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Roll the top of the axle to the rear.

You can shorten the upper arms or lengthen the lowers. It's your call.

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post #10 of 11 Old 02-17-2017, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dkjeep View Post
You don't know exactly how much degrees of separation there is on that particular axle. You know what it's supposed to be but like everything else there are variances so I wouldnt use the flats on the front of the axle. You need to take the degree reading from the top of the knuckle where the top ball joint seats. Dial the arms back until it's around 4 degrees.

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Once the caster is known from the alignment rack session, you don't need to know degree of separation, or anything else. He knows his caster now, so put the angle finder on any flat surface on the axle, (vertical, horizontal, doesn't matter), and zero it.
If more caster is wanted, adjust the arms to lower the pinion. His caster is +2.5°, and if he wants +4°, lower the pinion until the zeroed gauge reads 1.5°. Write that down and the new caster will be +4°.


Now, if his JK is lifted with an aftermarket drive shaft, he has to compromise his caster and pinion/drive shaft angle to avoid vibrations that could destroy the transfer case.

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Last edited by ronjenx; 02-17-2017 at 11:23 AM.
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post #11 of 11 Old 02-17-2017, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
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So after I got home today I couldn't find my dam angle finder for the life of me! So I rotated the tires. I had one bad one up front so I moved it to the spare and put the new spare in the rear .it drives a lot better. I have plans on some new Nittos, I guess it will be sooner than later,
Thanks to all for the input !

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