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post #1 of 21 Old 02-10-2017, 11:55 AM Thread Starter
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Wiring a spal fan on a 2013 jk

I have been searching everywhere and cannot find how to wire this fan up. The stock fan uses 3 wires 2 large wires 1 black 1 red and a small wire. The spal fan has 2 wires 1 black 1 red. My question is what do I do with the small wire? I believe it's a control wire. Do I wire it with the red wire? Any help would be greatly appreciated

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post #2 of 21 Old 02-12-2017, 03:23 PM
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Having the same problem here. Never done a lot of wiring before so pretty confused with the instructions provided.
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post #3 of 21 Old 02-12-2017, 03:54 PM
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The 2012 and up fans are an outrunner style P(Pulse)W(Width)M(Modulated) controlled unit. The wires are 12v+, ground, and the exciter wire. The exciter wire is a variable voltage control wire and the Jeep ECM is programmed with a PWM fan output. In order to run a non PWM fan with a PWM set up, you will have to run a converter. What is your reason for wanting the SPAL? We use the Pentastar fan on LS3 480HP JK's, and they stay cool all day long.

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post #4 of 21 Old 02-12-2017, 08:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnPShoe View Post
The 2012 and up fans are an outrunner style P(Pulse)W(Width)M(Modulated) controlled unit. The wires are 12v+, ground, and the exciter wire. The exciter wire is a variable voltage control wire and the Jeep ECM is programmed with a PWM fan output. In order to run a non PWM fan with a PWM set up, you will have to run a converter. What is your reason for wanting the SPAL? We use the Pentastar fan on LS3 480HP JK's, and they stay cool all day long.
Just wanting something waterproof as my stock fan blew out from puddles/mud. Also can't find the converter you're talking about. I tried just wiring red to red and black to black. The fun turns on, but even when the ignition is off. Obviously the exciter wire is the problem. I just don't know how to fix it.
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post #5 of 21 Old 02-13-2017, 08:06 AM
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You may need something like a Dakota Digital fan controller to operate it outside the PCM. I was going to go this route when I went to a bigger radiator but the Guys at C&R Radiators told me how good the stock fan is I kept it. I doubt that there is a more powerful fan available and it's a brushless fan as well.

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post #6 of 21 Old 02-13-2017, 06:32 PM Thread Starter
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Spal Fan

I want to go to a spal fan because it's waterproof. I have went through 3 stock fans and don't want to buy a 4th. Stock fans cool good they just can't handle the water. Where can I find a converter? What about using a flex a lite variable speed controller? Would that be the same thing? The small control wire only purpose is to control voltage...low. Med. high speed? If so can it be wired to the positive wire and run on high? Or would that not be good.
Thank you very much for the replys
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post #7 of 21 Old 02-13-2017, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tinney View Post
Just wanting something waterproof as my stock fan blew out from puddles/mud. Also can't find the converter you're talking about. I tried just wiring red to red and black to black. The fun turns on, but even when the ignition is off. Obviously the exciter wire is the problem. I just don't know how to fix it.
You need to have a few things reprogrammed and the small wire connected to the proper location for the PWM pentastar fan to work. It's a great fan but unfortunately I don't think anyone makes a aftermarket controller for it yet. If you want to run it we can get you hooked up with your factory stuff


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post #8 of 21 Old 02-13-2017, 08:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmorris9492 View Post
I want to go to a spal fan because it's waterproof. I have went through 3 stock fans and don't want to buy a 4th. Stock fans cool good they just can't handle the water. Where can I find a converter? What about using a flex a lite variable speed controller? Would that be the same thing? The small control wire only purpose is to control voltage...low. Med. high speed? If so can it be wired to the positive wire and run on high? Or would that not be good.
Thank you very much for the replys
The problem with the Pentastar setup is the frequency of the output on the exciter wire. It's inverse of what would seem "normal". On the Pentastar fan, the red wire is positive and the black ground. The exciter wire is the "volume" knob for the fan.

The two wire SPAL needs a discrete style control circuit. The SPAL will work on the earlier JK's because they were controlled by varying the voltage on the positive lead to the fan.

I'm not sure of a converter that will work to easily control that fan. The Dakota Digital piece may work, but it relies on external inputs, not just the TIPM.

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post #9 of 21 Old 02-13-2017, 08:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0lllllll0 RPMEXTREME View Post
You need to have a few things reprogrammed and the small wire connected to the proper location for the PWM pentastar fan to work. It's a great fan but unfortunately I don't think anyone makes a aftermarket controller for it yet. If you want to run it we can get you hooked up with your factory stuff
The OP is not trying to hook up a Pentastar fan in an older JK, but run an "old style" two wire in a Pentastar.

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post #10 of 21 Old 02-14-2017, 07:48 AM
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Quote:
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The OP is not trying to hook up a Pentastar fan in an older JK, but run an "old style" two wire in a Pentastar.

AH. I miss read. That same can go for 12+ back to single wire activation. I have never really tried it that way but I do know I can change the option and at least have a single wire that would control a fan on-off without PWM. Im sure the PCM would need to be reflashed to "relay 1 or 2 speed.

In my opinion the pentastar fan is more than likely better than a Spal fan unless you build a very nice shroud for the spal fan.

If you want to shut the PWM fan off during water crossings all you have to do is put a switch on the small signal wire to open the circuit when you want the fan "off"


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post #11 of 21 Old 02-14-2017, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmorris9492 View Post
I have been searching everywhere and cannot find how to wire this fan up. The stock fan uses 3 wires 2 large wires 1 black 1 red and a small wire. The spal fan has 2 wires 1 black 1 red. My question is what do I do with the small wire? I believe it's a control wire. Do I wire it with the red wire? Any help would be greatly appreciated

Thank you
as you know, the 13 and up are different ( supposedly the 3.6l fans are far and above better than the 07-11/12s but I guess that has been covered.) but I wondered if it might be some type of help to point you to the guy that runs UPI ;more than a few of us on JKO have shrouds or at least have added the much better spal fans than came on the 3.8l . Plus, I've gotten some useful input from 2007-2012 Jeep Wrangler JK Spal Fan Upgrade - Universal Parts Inc. | High Performance Automotive Cooling | Humboldt, IA

them. Maybe send an email and ask about your options if there are any; I found them to be greatly helpful and responsive to my communications about fan and cooling related voltages and variables when I upgraded my '11. Fans and cooling conversions are the business they are in so couldn't hurt to inquire.



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post #12 of 21 Old 02-14-2017, 06:24 PM
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Jon is correct with the Pentastar fan option for a 1 or 2 speed relay. I have never tried it as well. Truth be told, I just looked in the tune and realized it was there.

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post #13 of 21 Old 02-14-2017, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
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I installed a spal fan aluminum fan shroud combo today. I also used a flex a lite variable speed controller. The fan works great. It really pulls the air. I installed the controller per directions. I did use the 12v wire and ground wire from the oem fan harness. I did not use the controller wire. Only problem I'm having is check engine lite is on. I assume because the controller wire is not connected? I think I will connect the controller wire to the 12v wire and see if that cures it. Any thoughts? If that doesn't work or I can't get it figured out I will go back to a oem fan and just put a kill switch to drop the fan out on water crossing as previously stated.
Your guys are great. Thanks for all the replys. If anyone has any thoughts on where to put the controller wire or a way to trick the check engine lite please post it. I have seen a lot of people on different forms trying to figure this out also.
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post #14 of 21 Old 02-15-2017, 08:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmorris9492 View Post
I installed a spal fan aluminum fan shroud combo today. I also used a flex a lite variable speed controller. The fan works great. It really pulls the air. I installed the controller per directions. I did use the 12v wire and ground wire from the oem fan harness. I did not use the controller wire. Only problem I'm having is check engine lite is on. I assume because the controller wire is not connected? I think I will connect the controller wire to the 12v wire and see if that cures it. Any thoughts? If that doesn't work or I can't get it figured out I will go back to a oem fan and just put a kill switch to drop the fan out on water crossing as previously stated.
Your guys are great. Thanks for all the replys. If anyone has any thoughts on where to put the controller wire or a way to trick the check engine lite please post it. I have seen a lot of people on different forms trying to figure this out also.
Depending on what year the Jeep is you will need a custom tune to remove the check engine light.


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post #15 of 21 Old 02-16-2017, 10:04 PM Thread Starter
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What I did to get the check engine lite off was wire the small control wire with the constant 12v wire from the oem fan harness. So far all works great. The spal fan really pulls some air. I drove around all day and the temp needle stayed just below the middle mark. Needle still touched the middle mark but just at the beginning of it. Not sure the actual temp. Since I still have the 203 deg thermostat installed I'm sure its around that temp. I will post again in a week to let you know how it's working.
Thank you to all who replied.
Much appreciated
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post #16 of 21 Old 02-17-2017, 05:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmorris9492 View Post
What I did to get the check engine lite off was wire the small control wire with the constant 12v wire from the oem fan harness. So far all works great. The spal fan really pulls some air. I drove around all day and the temp needle stayed just below the middle mark. Needle still touched the middle mark but just at the beginning of it. Not sure the actual temp. Since I still have the 203 deg thermostat installed I'm sure its around that temp. I will post again in a week to let you know how it's working.
Thank you to all who replied.
Much appreciated


S'cool ya got the wiring sorted out !
again ill remind that I'm on an older 3.8l in my 2011 that I run a 16" crazy CFM Spal and aluminum shroud setup ( suckers let people know the Jeeps being cooled, huh? Lol LOUD!) but I'm only replying to suggest you look into either a tuner with option to read/display the PIDs or an actual temp gauge for the coolant , oil , tranny oil, diff oil , or ( my main suggestion ) you snag the Torque Pro app with a $15 Bluetooth ODBII scanner that can realtime display the actual temps of air inbound , engine coolant , etc.

It will pay for itself over the years so you can know the actual temp versus what that gauge might mean.

For a comparison,after installing the shroud and fan , my temps have not exceeded 199* F at coolant and the transmission (42RLE) hovers around 165*F and hard wheeling never exceeds 180*F. I had no way of knowing that until I got a tuner ( FlashPaq 8732) then Superchips removed the diagnostic feature I used to check true temps ( fuck you , Superchips) so I got Torque app and it is far better than the tuner at reading the Jeep PIDs .

Just trying to be helpful because, unless some stuff really changed ,the temp gauge on our dashes is pretty worthless except for a generalized overview of temp



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post #17 of 21 Old 02-17-2017, 08:25 AM Thread Starter
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Ya..it's loud. You know when the fan comes on.lol.. I will try the torque app and tuner. I would like to know the actual temperatures. Never really trusted the dummy gauge.
Thank you
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post #18 of 21 Old 01-31-2018, 05:54 PM
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I think I read somewhere that the engineers called the temperature gauge a "Customer Satisfaction Gauge" ....

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post #19 of 21 Old 06-30-2018, 10:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmorris9492 View Post
What I did to get the check engine lite off was wire the small control wire with the constant 12v wire from the oem fan harness. So far all works great. The spal fan really pulls some air. I drove around all day and the temp needle stayed just below the middle mark. Needle still touched the middle mark but just at the beginning of it. Not sure the actual temp. Since I still have the 203 deg thermostat installed I'm sure its around that temp. I will post again in a week to let you know how it's working.
Thank you to all who replied.
Much appreciated
Any update on if the check engine light stayed off?

My factory fan quite working so I built a custom shroud and installed a 16" SPAL with a Derale PWM controller. The fan and controller work great, but the computer was throwing the following codes (P0480 "Cooling fan 1 control circuit open" and P0693 "Cooling fan 2 Control Circuit low"). I did what you said connected the exciter wire to the positive wire and cleared the codes. Took the Jeep on a short test drive and nothing popped back up.

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post #20 of 21 Old 09-25-2019, 02:17 PM
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I know this is an old thread. But I wanted to get some More information. For the ones that put the signal wire to the power wire, was that a long term fix? Or did a check
Engine light come on later? Any issues since doing this?

I have an LS swap and my fan is on high all the time and looking to change that. I have a bruiser conversion and I canít get in to the computer to change anything.

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post #21 of 21 Old 10-08-2019, 04:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by USMC-JK View Post
I know this is an old thread. But I wanted to get some More information. For the ones that put the signal wire to the power wire, was that a long term fix? Or did a check
Engine light come on later? Any issues since doing this?

I have an LS swap and my fan is on high all the time and looking to change that. I have a bruiser conversion and I canít get in to the computer to change anything.

2013 Jeep Wrangler
You need one of these RpmExtreme HEMI-JK PWM FAN CONTROLER :: RPM Extreme. It should work with the bruiser setup as the ECU is a HEMI.


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