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RK 3.5 X factor extremely stiff
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Installed a new triple rate RK 3.5 X factor with the RRD reservoir shocks on a 2014 2 door soft top. The shocks are supposed to be valved for 2 door. with 35x12.5 r15 copper stt pro at 29 psi. Jeep has CC front and rear bumpers, and skids with ace engineering rock rails. Alignment is slightly toe in with 4.5 caster.
The first set of shocks were actually built incorrectly and wouldn't cycle past 2 inches period. RK acknowledged that they had built a few set of shocks incorrectly and immediately sent me a set to swap them out.
Even with the new shocks installed It's riding horribly stiff, especially in the rear. Even bombing down fire roads at 35 mph and off shoot trails with 6-8 inch drops at 20+ mph I can't get the rear shocks to cycle more than 2.5-3 inches. I can get the fronts to compress to the bump stops but not the rears.
I have loosened and retorqued all upper and lower torque arms to ensure there is no binding.
It rides harsher than a desert pre runner set up for high speed whoops.
Anyone have any luck revalving RRD shocks to work with the triple rate springs on a 2 door?
Or am I back to looking for softer springs and then dialing in the shock valving for the softer springs?
The first set of shocks were actually built incorrectly and wouldn't cycle past 2 inches period. RK acknowledged that they had built a few set of shocks incorrectly and immediately sent me a set to swap them out.
Even with the new shocks installed It's riding horribly stiff, especially in the rear. Even bombing down fire roads at 35 mph and off shoot trails with 6-8 inch drops at 20+ mph I can't get the rear shocks to cycle more than 2.5-3 inches. I can get the fronts to compress to the bump stops but not the rears.
I have loosened and retorqued all upper and lower torque arms to ensure there is no binding.
It rides harsher than a desert pre runner set up for high speed whoops.
Anyone have any luck revalving RRD shocks to work with the triple rate springs on a 2 door?
Or am I back to looking for softer springs and then dialing in the shock valving for the softer springs?
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JKO Addict!
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: southwest reno, nv
Age: 51
Posts: 4,343
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"valved for a 2 door" I never knew you valved a shock for how many doors it has.
Have you checked that nitrogen pressure? Any photos or a build thread that shows your shock and bump stop set up?
Have you checked that nitrogen pressure? Any photos or a build thread that shows your shock and bump stop set up?
Some build info here:
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The Wheelin Man's Friend
The GoatQuote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman
View Post
"valved for a 2 door" I never knew you valved a shock for how many doors it has.
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JKO Addict!
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: southwest reno, nv
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its called humor. I guess I should put a smiley face after my comment. If you actually have seen my recommendations I typically tell people to keep it low and no bigger then 35's.
I see you are offering a lot of help with the question.
I see you are offering a lot of help with the question.
Some build info here:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckle55
View Post
Installed a new triple rate RK 3.5 X factor with the RRD reservoir shocks on a 2014 2 door soft top. The shocks are supposed to be valved for 2 door. with 35x12.5 r15 copper stt pro at 29 psi. Jeep has CC front and rear bumpers, and skids with ace engineering rock rails. Alignment is slightly toe in with 4.5 caster.
The first set of shocks were actually built incorrectly and wouldn't cycle past 2 inches period. RK acknowledged that they had built a few set of shocks incorrectly and immediately sent me a set to swap them out.
Even with the new shocks installed It's riding horribly stiff, especially in the rear. Even bombing down fire roads at 35 mph and off shoot trails with 6-8 inch drops at 20+ mph I can't get the rear shocks to cycle more than 2.5-3 inches. I can get the fronts to compress to the bump stops but not the rears.
I have loosened and retorqued all upper and lower torque arms to ensure there is no binding.
It rides harsher than a desert pre runner set up for high speed whoops.
Anyone have any luck revalving RRD shocks to work with the triple rate springs on a 2 door?
Or am I back to looking for softer springs and then dialing in the shock valving for the softer springs?
The first set of shocks were actually built incorrectly and wouldn't cycle past 2 inches period. RK acknowledged that they had built a few set of shocks incorrectly and immediately sent me a set to swap them out.
Even with the new shocks installed It's riding horribly stiff, especially in the rear. Even bombing down fire roads at 35 mph and off shoot trails with 6-8 inch drops at 20+ mph I can't get the rear shocks to cycle more than 2.5-3 inches. I can get the fronts to compress to the bump stops but not the rears.
I have loosened and retorqued all upper and lower torque arms to ensure there is no binding.
It rides harsher than a desert pre runner set up for high speed whoops.
Anyone have any luck revalving RRD shocks to work with the triple rate springs on a 2 door?
Or am I back to looking for softer springs and then dialing in the shock valving for the softer springs?
Sir
Stick to working with Chad. He will get you taken care of!
Yes, we do valve our shocks specifically for 2 door and 4 door applications...
Rock God
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Chester, WV
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How many valves do I need for this bad boy
Dirtman you really need to incorporate smileys
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Dirtman you really need to incorporate smileys
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kjeeper10 likes this.
I would assume a shock "valved" for 2 door, meanings softer due to the weight difference. Honestly ive read both sides with the RRD's .. Love and hate as far as ride. Or after a re-valve the person likes them. The issue ride is subjective for the most part and no 2 jeeps are built the same. Instead of just assuming the Valving is right i would make sure the manufacture knew what im looking for and how much weight im running.
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2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers
Granite Guru
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If you revalve it too soft, won't that affect how much you're bouncing around when you start to try climbing some stuff?
•|||||||• 2015 Unlimited Sport S Baja Yellow
Auto / 4.56 Gears / ARB Front, Auburn Ected Rear Locker & LSD / G2 Core 44 35 Spline Axles / Alpine 9-Speakers & Sub / MC 3.5" w 6pak shocks / 37" KM3s on Method 105 Beadlocks
JKO Addict!
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Yes, weight is one of the factors. It really has nothing to do with how many doors you have. A fully armored 2 door on 40's and tons is going to be valved different then a stock 4 door, but also will be different then a stock 2 door. Your "special" valving is really just a generic valving for a range of JK's like every other manufacturer that uses JK valved in their marketing.
Some build info here:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chitown35
View Post
If you revalve it too soft, won't that affect how much you're bouncing around when you start to try climbing some stuff?
The OP is talking about running fast (sort of) which will take a stiffer compression and faster rebound to deep the tires on the ground and keep the suspension from bottoming out.
Running 20 mph over roughs with go fast valved shocks is going to be rough. You need more speed to make the suspension work right. Get up to 45-50 mph and it will likely smooth out.
Some build info here:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman
View Post
Yes, weight is one of the factors. It really has nothing to do with how many doors you have. A fully armored 2 door on 40's and tons is going to be valved different then a stock 4 door, but also will be different then a stock 2 door. Your "special" valving is really just a generic valving for a range of JK's like every other manufacturer that uses JK valved in their marketing.
Like mid arms right ? :rofl: (a joke)
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2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers
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As long as it is "upgradeable"
kjeeper10 likes this.
Some build info here:
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Just for your reference, the ride rate on the fronts for you is 155 lb/in and the rear is 170 lb/in.
If you don't have a full size spare, tire carrier etc on the back that our typical customer has, then the rear shocks might be a little on the firm side since you have no weight to make them move.
If you don't have a full size spare, tire carrier etc on the back that our typical customer has, then the rear shocks might be a little on the firm side since you have no weight to make them move.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckTheRipper
View Post
How many valves do I need for this bad boy
Dirtman you really need to incorporate smileys
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Dirtman you really need to incorporate smileys
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman
View Post
Yes, weight is one of the factors. It really has nothing to do with how many doors you have. A fully armored 2 door on 40's and tons is going to be valved different then a stock 4 door, but also will be different then a stock 2 door. Your "special" valving is really just a generic valving for a range of JK's like every other manufacturer that uses JK valved in their marketing.
We actually do have (2) valving profiles for 2 door and 4 door applications.
Rock God
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Chester, WV
Age: 27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10
View Post
. The issue ride is subjective for the most part and no 2 jeeps are built the same. Instead of just assuming the Valving is right i would make sure the manufacture knew what im looking for and how much weight im running.
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I calling 100% bullshit.. Just take a look at the gayalife gang, they're all identical.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckTheRipper
View Post
I calling 100% bullshit.. Just take a look at the gayalife gang, they're all identical.
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Well thats easy. RK develop a wankerlife clone valve stack ... Done LOL
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2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers
Granite Guru
Join Date: Feb 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckle55
View Post
Installed a new triple rate RK 3.5 X factor with the RRD reservoir shocks on a 2014 2 door soft top. The shocks are supposed to be valved for 2 door. with 35x12.5 r15 copper stt pro at 29 psi. Jeep has CC front and rear bumpers, and skids with ace engineering rock rails. Alignment is slightly toe in with 4.5 caster.
The first set of shocks were actually built incorrectly and wouldn't cycle past 2 inches period. RK acknowledged that they had built a few set of shocks incorrectly and immediately sent me a set to swap them out.
Even with the new shocks installed It's riding horribly stiff, especially in the rear. Even bombing down fire roads at 35 mph and off shoot trails with 6-8 inch drops at 20+ mph I can't get the rear shocks to cycle more than 2.5-3 inches. I can get the fronts to compress to the bump stops but not the rears.
I have loosened and retorqued all upper and lower torque arms to ensure there is no binding.
It rides harsher than a desert pre runner set up for high speed whoops.
Anyone have any luck revalving RRD shocks to work with the triple rate springs on a 2 door?
Or am I back to looking for softer springs and then dialing in the shock valving for the softer springs?
The first set of shocks were actually built incorrectly and wouldn't cycle past 2 inches period. RK acknowledged that they had built a few set of shocks incorrectly and immediately sent me a set to swap them out.
Even with the new shocks installed It's riding horribly stiff, especially in the rear. Even bombing down fire roads at 35 mph and off shoot trails with 6-8 inch drops at 20+ mph I can't get the rear shocks to cycle more than 2.5-3 inches. I can get the fronts to compress to the bump stops but not the rears.
I have loosened and retorqued all upper and lower torque arms to ensure there is no binding.
It rides harsher than a desert pre runner set up for high speed whoops.
Anyone have any luck revalving RRD shocks to work with the triple rate springs on a 2 door?
Or am I back to looking for softer springs and then dialing in the shock valving for the softer springs?
Quote:
Originally Posted by CrazyLarry
View Post
Are you running the CC skinny rear bumper? Are you running a spare? If not that's a very light rear end. Hopefully RK can valve the shocks for that light weight
Granite Guru
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Location: So. CA
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You can pull the rear shocks and drive around a bit to isolate the feeling imparted by the dampers. I haven't heard of anyone revalving the RRD shocks since they have a unique diameter.
'13 JKU | 3" Synergy, 37" KO2
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckTheRipper
View Post
I calling 100% bullshit.. Just take a look at the gayalife gang, they're all identical.
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RK
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Join Date: Jan 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RiverCityOffroad
View Post
Come on man. lmao Must you pick apart everyone's post due to their choice of words? I'm surprised you didn't recommend he custom build a double triangulated suspension system to fix the issue.
Newbie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rock Krawler Suspension
View Post
Sir
Stick to working with Chad. He will get you taken care of!
Yes, we do valve our shocks specifically for 2 door and 4 door applications...
Stick to working with Chad. He will get you taken care of!
Yes, we do valve our shocks specifically for 2 door and 4 door applications...
Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 9
Feedback: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman
View Post
Yes, weight is one of the factors. It really has nothing to do with how many doors you have. A fully armored 2 door on 40's and tons is going to be valved different then a stock 4 door, but also will be different then a stock 2 door. Your "special" valving is really just a generic valving for a range of JK's like every other manufacturer that uses JK valved in their marketing.
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