Can we discuss Rare Parts Ball Joints... again - Page 2 - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #26 of 80 Old 01-07-2017, 03:14 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
They weren't loose after the Synergy joints ?


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Nope, pressed in nicely no worries!
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post #27 of 80 Old 01-07-2017, 03:22 PM
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Nope, pressed in nicely no worries!

I prob would not have that luck lol


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post #28 of 80 Old 01-07-2017, 03:59 PM
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everything looks really well put together , thought out and good, @Biginboca . Yeah, the perpetual " we shall never know why some have sh*t luck with Synergy Mfg BJs and some of us they just last and last and last" differing experiences, it would seem . I am in latter boat, also. I now grease them by 6th sense I have done it so much, heh.


I just wanted to say that and that I like your Rancho knuckles.


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post #29 of 80 Old 01-07-2017, 04:37 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by j3ff3ry_j33p View Post
everything looks really well put together , thought out and good, @Biginboca . Yeah, the perpetual " we shall never know why some have sh*t luck with Synergy Mfg BJs and some of us they just last and last and last" differing experiences, it would seem . I am in latter boat, also. I now grease them by 6th sense I have done it so much, heh.


I just wanted to say that and that I like your Rancho knuckles.
Thank you sir...

I think backspacing may be part of it. I'm running 13.5" wide tires but on 4.5" backspaced wheels. I know a lot of guys go much lower on the backspacing and I think that affects the stress on the joints quite a bit.

I noticed recently when I turned my tires on some gravel that the center of the turn axis is almost dead center of my contact patch. (There were swirls on the tread from the gravel rubbing on the tire tread and these swirls centered on almost dead center of the tread.)
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post #30 of 80 Old 01-07-2017, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Biginboca View Post
Thank you sir...

I think backspacing may be part of it. I'm running 13.5" wide tires but on 4.5" backspaced wheels. I know a lot of guys go much lower on the backspacing and I think that affects the stress on the joints quite a bit.

I noticed recently when I turned my tires on some gravel that the center of the turn axis is almost dead center of my contact patch. (There were swirls on the tread from the gravel rubbing on the tire tread and these swirls centered on almost dead center of the tread.)
THAT is so sweet when some fab or construct or upgrade just falls into a state of nearly "machine-install-perfect" but it's 'cuz you measured & took care of it properly. Huge reward .
Yeah, just cause I had a new set of 1.5" spidertrax sitting around a few months back , I decided to see what spacers on a 4.5 BS wheel would look and drive like; 2 asphalt miles and .5 off-road miles = I couldn't get them off fast enough , ha. Looked like a poser wagon , drive like crap , but mostly I could literally fee howl the primary bearer of the extreme weight at those ball joint axes would last maybe a month if I had 3.0" of backspace and big tires ... I agree with this theory .Anyhoo..again, Kool new shiny stuff to abuse !.


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post #31 of 80 Old 01-08-2017, 05:30 AM Thread Starter
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I put a few miles on the new set up the steering feels great. Very tight and tracks beautifully!

When I swapped my tie rod to the rancho knuckles it had me 1" toed out from the previous 1/4" toe in on factory knuckles. I also needed to lengthen my drag link about 1/4" to recenter the wheel. So there is some geometry difference there.

Can't quite say anything special about the ride is due to the rare parts yet I guess having any new ball joints is definitely going to give you some nice feel to the steering, right? I am digging the fancy look though, lol. One last pic of my new axle bling...

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post #32 of 80 Old 01-08-2017, 07:20 AM
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No issues at all using the ball joint press with just what was included?
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post #33 of 80 Old 01-08-2017, 08:24 AM Thread Starter
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No issues at all using the ball joint press with just what was included?
No issues I did have to stop and think a few times on the first one about how to make it work. That's part of why the first one took an hour longer.

Just keep in mind that the press is open on one end and you can press a joint with the open end over a ball joint stud and sitting right on the joint. If you aren't thinking you miss this detail because normal c-clamps are not open on one end.

It's like you spend 5 minutes wondering "what am I missing here?" and then "duh" this will work fine, lol

The only issue was pressing the top ones out I was only able to actually press them like 3/4 of the way out and then a few taps with a 4lb sledge knocked it up and out.

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post #34 of 80 Old 01-24-2017, 09:35 PM
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Running into a few snags with Tera44 axle

I'm running into a couple issues as I try to install these ball joints on a nice Tera44 axle. The inner "C" is thicker than the stock axle and I'm having to make some modifications. I had to notch the 2" Aluminum nut on the upper ball joint to allow me to install the pre-load set screw. I'm also going to have to notch the lower portion of the Tera44 inner "C" to allow me to get a grease gun on the grease fitting of the lower ball joint.


I'm also concerned that I may run into issues with the distance between the upper and lower ball joints on the Tera44 axle due to the thicker "C". Teraflex added more material in areas that didn't affect the mounting distance when the ball joints are mounted in the traditional direction. I think I may run into problems because the upper ball joint goes in from bottom of the upper "C" where extra material was added on the Tera44.





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post #35 of 80 Old 01-24-2017, 09:39 PM
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HMmmm yea doesnt look right.


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post #36 of 80 Old 01-25-2017, 02:29 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah you might actually have a problem there. That stinks! I was going to say you might be ok but then I realized that the extra thickness is all on the underside of the upper C and would create a change in the mounting space between the joints on the knuckle. It looks like you have about 2 threads showing on the mounting nut and I have about 4 on mine. Probably like 1/8" more thickness to the upper C on yours.

I can't see grinding that material on the bottom side of the upper C down and getting a good even result either...

I wonder how these joints would work with a Dynatrac housing? They use different end forgings also but I don't know if they are thicker where the BJ's mount.

Last edited by Biginboca; 01-25-2017 at 03:54 AM.
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post #37 of 80 Old 01-25-2017, 03:59 AM
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I wonder if anyone has had the same issues might be worth a call to teraflex to see

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post #38 of 80 Old 01-26-2017, 12:51 PM
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Kind of late to respond but I've had my rare parts ball joints installed for awhile now (26k miles on them) with 40" tires and they still check out good. I usually check them every 3 or 4 months. I got mine back when they were $425. I'm extremely happy with them and rare parts customer service.
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post #39 of 80 Old 01-26-2017, 02:14 PM
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The ball joints definitely work in the Currie Rock Jock Cs, and they are fairly large as well.

For the lower zerk fitting, it is supposed to be angle away from the housing (ball joint should be rotated about 90 degrees). The C thickens as you turn toward the housing.

I believe the more recently manufactured ball joints have a slightly shorter anodized nut on the upper to prevent the problem.


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post #40 of 80 Old 01-26-2017, 09:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stretch79 View Post
Kind of late to respond but I've had my rare parts ball joints installed for awhile now (26k miles on them) with 40" tires and they still check out good. I usually check them every 3 or 4 months. I got mine back when they were $425. I'm extremely happy with them and rare parts customer service.
This load distributing ball joint design is very interesting…..
I wonder how much added stress is applied to the upper arm of the inner C?
Wheeling these load distributing ball joints on a stock or UD44 housing might just actually have a plausible chance of tweaking the Inner C.
Hmmmm….

What front housing are you running stretch79?

Hey Dynatrac, Teraflex and Rare Parts. What are your thoughts on my merger concern?
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post #41 of 80 Old 01-27-2017, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sirjeepalot View Post
This load distributing ball joint design is very interesting…..
I wonder how much added stress is applied to the upper arm of the inner C?
Wheeling these load distributing ball joints on a stock or UD44 housing might just actually have a plausible chance of tweaking the Inner C.
Hmmmm….

What front housing are you running stretch79?

Hey Dynatrac, Teraflex and Rare Parts. What are your thoughts on my merger concern?
I'm running a 2014 rubicon axle with C gussets and truss. Tires wear fine so I assume nothing is bent on my C's yet. I'm not easy on it either.

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post #42 of 80 Old 01-27-2017, 12:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stretch79 View Post
I'm running a 2014 rubicon axle with C gussets and truss. Tires wear fine so I assume nothing is bent on my C's yet. I'm not easy on it either.
40's on a trussed up Rubi axle, Bad ass,
I don't like the current price of RP ball joint's, but the design makes sense.
Thanks for sharing.
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post #43 of 80 Old 01-27-2017, 12:55 PM
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Here are a couple pics to show it actually gets used.
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post #44 of 80 Old 01-27-2017, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stretch79 View Post
Here are a couple pics to show it actually gets used.
And those wheels are 3.5 BS too right? Nice to see the 40s working with that suspension since i have it too and would love to move up


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post #45 of 80 Old 01-27-2017, 02:03 PM
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And those wheels are 3.5 BS too right? Nice to see the 40s working with that suspension since i have it too and would love to move up
I believe the methods are 3.5". They will rub on full lock though, I had to put 3 washers in my steering stops. Yes, the 40's will fit and work with the 3.5" rk lift but be prepared to do some major sawzall work front and rear.
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post #46 of 80 Old 01-28-2017, 02:20 PM
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I took a break from this. I decided to look at it again, If I completely remove the upper ball joint pre-load cap I can tighten the lower ball joint castle nut properly. As the knuckle comes up onto the tapered studs the upper ball joint bearing raises up in the bore. I can get the pre-load cap back on, but I don't have nearly as many threads of engagement. I have a call into Rare Parts to see if this is acceptable?

This picture shows approximately where the pre-load cap should be in a stock axle install.


This is where my pre-load cap sits currently with 3 full turns of thread engagement.


I wonder if I can get thinner rubber and plastic spacers to increase the number of threads engaged.



The inner parts that make up the upper ball joint.



This is where the stud sits in an axle with thicker "C"



This is the postion that the tapered stud should be in when installed in a stock axle


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post #47 of 80 Old 09-17-2017, 03:54 PM
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Anyone know if you have to grind the shafts on a 2012+ with the rare parts ball joints? Can't find an answer either way anywhere...
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post #48 of 80 Old 09-17-2017, 09:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Can't say that I have. Teraflex makes a nice pair. Adjustable, greasable, warranty, the works. You will have to grind on the shafts some, but it's not a big deal. Been abusing my suspension, and everything is gravy. Customer service is top notch. They offered to ship a replacement when the guys forgot to grind.. who does that? Awesome. I made the shop pay for it and thanked TF. Top notch

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post #49 of 80 Old 09-18-2017, 06:16 AM
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Anyone know if you have to grind the shafts on a 2012+ with the rare parts ball joints? Can't find an answer either way anywhere...
I put them in my 2014 Rubicon and did NOT have to grind the shafts. Just be sure to turn the lower grease zerk to the proper position. I believe the instructions show you how.

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post #50 of 80 Old 09-22-2017, 07:50 AM
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How does greasing the uppers work? I put about 10 pumps into them, I usually fill up new parts like this until I just start to see grease escaping the bottom. But on these, the grease gun got stiff, it looks like they have no exit path for grease to escape.

Is this correct? Won't that make it pretty hard to grease them in the future because the bottom will be hydrolocked with grease and I won't be able to get any fresh grease in?
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