2-Door ORI's, 3-Links, and a Tummy Tuck Build - Page 8 - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #176 of 185 Old 04-24-2019, 11:18 AM
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That caliper guard looks beefy, I think it will do just fine. Plus when you see big gouges in it, you'll know that would have been another ripped off caliper.

Did you ever get around to making a cart for your welder and bottle? I knocked over my Oxy/Acc rig the other day. It fell on the side with the handle and the bottles never came close to the ground, but I stood there for a minute thinking that could have been really bad.

Kevin
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post #177 of 185 Old 04-25-2019, 07:47 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by gt1guy View Post

Did you ever get around to making a cart for your welder and bottle? I knocked over my Oxy/Acc rig the other day. It fell on the side with the handle and the bottles never came close to the ground, but I stood there for a minute thinking that could have been really bad.
Yes, you all made me feel guilty enough to do it, then I realized it's actually incredibly nice to be able to roll it all around!

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post #178 of 185 Old 06-03-2019, 10:24 PM Thread Starter
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Had a mostly successful time in Moab. Within half a mile of leaving the highway, my front passenger LCA bracket fell off the axle. I knew they were getting awful bent up but I didn't realize they were anywhere near falling off. I hadn't fixed them because literally the day after I got home from Moab, it was all getting cut off for long arms.

Got it taken care of at Moab Motorsports then had no issues the rest of the trip.





I didn't realize until I got home that I actually buckled the frame rail in when the Jeep pole vaulted on the control arm (felt like I crashed into a rock, my friend in the passenger seat was positive I had just hit a rock on an axle but I knew there was no rock in the road). Doesn't really matter but I plated over the whole area setting up new brackets regardless.



Just finished my new front suspension. It rides amazing. Huge improvements to ride quality on the highway, and off-road it is just incredible how different it is over stock for highspeed travel on rocky rough roads. My lowers are now at the axle tube and basically flat at street-height front and rear. Haven't had a chance to get it to the dunes yet but I can't wait to see how it does!

Getting those front frame brackets off is quite the task. I hate bracket removal, and those are by far the worst brackets I've yet had to deal with. I broke down and finally bought a plasma cutter after a few hours with a cutoff tool. Even with a plasma those brackets are a nightmare.









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post #179 of 185 Old 08-13-2019, 09:50 PM Thread Starter
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I added a rear sway-bar last month. I'm using a 0.9" 50" Currie bar with true 20" length arms (I say true because Currie's 20" arms are actually only 18" long hole-to-hole, so I extended them to fit my setup). Since I can't get much up-travel in the arms and they point down at ride height, I tilted the link way back so that it unwinds during droop keeping relatively good geometry throughout travel despite a fairly non-conventional setup. Conveniently, my caliper guards were perfect mounting points for the new sway bar link positions.

(And, now I have another gas cylinder sitting on the floor in pictures, how embarrassing... this time it's suspension nitrogen, haven't done a safe setup for that one yet as I don't use it much).

Sitting roughly mid-stroke it looks like this:


Then at the travel extremes it becomes this:



Since I now have a sway bar, I dropped my ORI lower pressures from 180PSI front and rear to 120PSI front/70PSI rear to reduce the spring rate (down to about 100 lb/in at ride height). This had a major improvement for rough forest roads, washboards, etc. but unfortunately had almost no impact at the dunes which surprised me.

The rear sway bar also really balances out the suspension rock crawling as I never quite liked having equal front and rear articulation stiffness, doesn't behave well on up-hill climbs as the rear just flops. This balances it out much better on climbs.



I also made a recessed winch plate cutting off about 5" from my front bumper approach clearance. Still need to add tow points and figure out where to put my license plate (apparently a local town just started aggressively ticketing). Also not sure if I'm going to leave the winch contactor box out front like that, but honestly it's probably not a big problem as long as I don't go crashing straight into perfectly vertical brick walls.





Also flipped the bolts on my Hutchinsons, I quite like it! Highly recommend doing this if you run this type of wheel. I assemble it with a few studs to get it centered, then pop them all out and replace them with backwards 1/2" bolts.

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post #180 of 185 Old 08-14-2019, 01:18 PM
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Nice job on the sway bar. Doesn't look like there's any chance of it inverting the links.

On your wheels, are you using shorter bolts when you reverse them. It kinda looks like it. Pretty smart move not having the exposed threads facing out where they can get chewed up.

You already know you're going to smash the winch controller, might as well move it now.

You and high pressure bottles

Kevin
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post #181 of 185 Old 08-14-2019, 02:10 PM
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Cracks me up that you buy a new welding rig, then build your welding cart out of wood. LOL

2009 JKU
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post #182 of 185 Old 08-14-2019, 10:27 PM Thread Starter
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On your wheels, are you using shorter bolts when you reverse them. It kinda looks like it. Pretty smart move not having the exposed threads facing out where they can get chewed up.
These are 1/2" x 2" bolts. I don't know the exact measurement, but they're about the same length as the short factory studs. They are much shorter than the three long starting-studs.
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post #183 of 185 Old 08-16-2019, 08:23 AM
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You can mount the contractor box behind the grill if you wanted. Thatís what I did, itís much cleaner looking as well. Also, I added a cheap amazon wireless kit to mine, think it was like $10, it works absolutely awesome.
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post #184 of 185 Old 08-16-2019, 09:34 AM
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How does it feel on the street now, with the sway bar and lower spring rate?

Kevin
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post #185 of 185 Old 08-16-2019, 09:54 AM Thread Starter
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How does it feel on the street now, with the sway bar and lower spring rate?
Roll wise, for street cornering it feels about the same as when I had no sway bars and higher spring rate. For static roll in off-camber crawling, it is significantly more stable and predictable now.

As far as actual ride quality, it's definitely the best it's ever been right now but still pretty harsh. You really feel everything in the road surface. I believe it's just because ORI's are high stiction. It's not that bad but does become a bit exhausting after a long day of driving. The reduced spring rate helped a little but not much. The spring rate reduction is really the most noticeable on washboarded roads or traveling at speed on chattering rocky roads, it really hasn't had much impact anywhere else.

I used to have issues with the Jeep going into resonances on the highway and bouncing endlessly at 1-2hz but the front long-arm actually pretty much eliminated that, I think my lowers were just too angled before so the suspension motion on the highway was transferring into the wrong axis through the angled control arms.
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