Figured I'd make a build thread as I'm just getting started on this long project.
14" ORI's on a 3" lift with stock width axles (was going to go 16" but decided there's no point in stressing my drive lines and pushing clearances to the limit for very little gain). The challenge is, this is my only vehicle and I drive it to work.
No kits, just buying steel, brackets, ORI's, and rod ends. It's more fun that way, and you usually end up with a better product because no compromises are necessary.
Recently finished getting a 3-link rear installed. It uses the Rock Krawler frame cradle, Artec truss, and home made lower frame mounts above the frame rail.
Lower mounts and 3-link:
https://flic.kr/p/LJx7ei
https://flic.kr/p/Lq6Pzy
https://flic.kr/p/MHbyqb
These are Rock Krawler link ends, but I made the arms myself to get the lengths just right for my custom mounting points. Don't care for lower arm mounts below the frame rail like what's in their kit (and like what 90% of people seem to do). For what it's worth, I put way too much bend in that upper link the first try so don't copy that.
https://flic.kr/p/LbqQSy
The clearance on this suspension is very, very tight all around (upper link is less than 1/4" from both the frame and driveshaft at full compression), and the lower links are just over an inch from the tires. Given it two hard trail days and no issues yet, though.
https://flic.kr/p/LNJeXG
Will need to do a lot of trimming when I get 37's on. Planning to stretch out the control arms to gain another 2" of stretch but that'll come further down the road.
Next up, making a track bar with spherical ends and installing the 14" ORI's in the back. Planning to completely chop the frame, install a new cross member, and move the frame in 6" to clear the ORI's on factory width axles while keeping them outboard and fully on top of the axle. Being a daily driver that must work every Monday, getting a reliable CAD model of any plan is critical and got the suspension clearance almost perfect on the first try.
https://flic.kr/p/LNH3Zm
https://flic.kr/p/LNLJj6
https://flic.kr/p/LNLJjX
After that, dealing with my very broken muffler and exhaust (moving the crossover to gain clearance), 3-linking the front, then shoving ORI's in there. Then a tummy tuck which will involve making a high-clearance aluminum fuel cell to go in place of the stock tank losing a few gallons. I really don't want a fuel cell inside or behind the axle.
And some weekend where I'm bored and waiting for parts I'll make an aluminum rear bumper and tire carrier to shed that 198 pound ACE bumper (nothing against ACE, but seriously, nobody should be hanging 198 pounds on the back of a JK, and that doesn't even include the spare tire).
14" ORI's on a 3" lift with stock width axles (was going to go 16" but decided there's no point in stressing my drive lines and pushing clearances to the limit for very little gain). The challenge is, this is my only vehicle and I drive it to work.
No kits, just buying steel, brackets, ORI's, and rod ends. It's more fun that way, and you usually end up with a better product because no compromises are necessary.
Recently finished getting a 3-link rear installed. It uses the Rock Krawler frame cradle, Artec truss, and home made lower frame mounts above the frame rail.
Lower mounts and 3-link:
https://flic.kr/p/LJx7ei
https://flic.kr/p/Lq6Pzy
https://flic.kr/p/MHbyqb
These are Rock Krawler link ends, but I made the arms myself to get the lengths just right for my custom mounting points. Don't care for lower arm mounts below the frame rail like what's in their kit (and like what 90% of people seem to do). For what it's worth, I put way too much bend in that upper link the first try so don't copy that.
https://flic.kr/p/LbqQSy
The clearance on this suspension is very, very tight all around (upper link is less than 1/4" from both the frame and driveshaft at full compression), and the lower links are just over an inch from the tires. Given it two hard trail days and no issues yet, though.
https://flic.kr/p/LNJeXG
Will need to do a lot of trimming when I get 37's on. Planning to stretch out the control arms to gain another 2" of stretch but that'll come further down the road.
Next up, making a track bar with spherical ends and installing the 14" ORI's in the back. Planning to completely chop the frame, install a new cross member, and move the frame in 6" to clear the ORI's on factory width axles while keeping them outboard and fully on top of the axle. Being a daily driver that must work every Monday, getting a reliable CAD model of any plan is critical and got the suspension clearance almost perfect on the first try.
https://flic.kr/p/LNH3Zm
https://flic.kr/p/LNLJj6
https://flic.kr/p/LNLJjX
After that, dealing with my very broken muffler and exhaust (moving the crossover to gain clearance), 3-linking the front, then shoving ORI's in there. Then a tummy tuck which will involve making a high-clearance aluminum fuel cell to go in place of the stock tank losing a few gallons. I really don't want a fuel cell inside or behind the axle.
And some weekend where I'm bored and waiting for parts I'll make an aluminum rear bumper and tire carrier to shed that 198 pound ACE bumper (nothing against ACE, but seriously, nobody should be hanging 198 pounds on the back of a JK, and that doesn't even include the spare tire).