RockJock leaking at pinion... - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 19 Old 07-21-2010, 07:38 PM Thread Starter
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RockJock leaking at pinion...

Guys,

Hope you guys can help because I have a big trip planned next week to Moab and if I don't get this worked out I won't be able to bring the Jeep I just finished a 600 mile road trip and noticed the morning after I got back I had a drop of oil under the Jeep around the rear axle. Got underneath and found gear oil splattered everywhere. At first I thought it might have been coming from the vent tube where I coupled it together to extend it but thats not it. I cleaned it all up and then took it out for a drive and it's coming from the pinion for sure. This axle only has about 1500 miles on it and I had just changed the gear oil a couple weeks ago. Is it possible I overfilled it and the long hot drive caused too much pressure and vented out the pinion seal? You guys think the pinion seal is shot? If so how hard is it to replace the seal on the rockjock? Help!!!!!!!
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post #2 of 19 Old 07-21-2010, 09:09 PM
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I will tell you this! Call Currie and order that seal ASAP from them. We tried to find that seal local with no luck. Its made by National, but is some weird military size.


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post #3 of 19 Old 07-21-2010, 09:17 PM
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replacement... pull pinion yoke, screwdriver (or seal puller) out the seal, tap new seal in. reinstall pinion yoke.
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post #4 of 19 Old 07-22-2010, 07:10 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys! I'll try to get the seal overnighted and tackle this on Saturday. Do you guys have any special techniques for getting the torque on the pinion nut right after I reinstall the yoke? Also do I NEED a new pinion nut since I'm removing it? I'm really surprised this seal is leaking after only a thousand miles of street driving. Thanks again for the help!
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post #5 of 19 Old 07-22-2010, 08:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdahlum View Post
Thanks guys! I'll try to get the seal overnighted and tackle this on Saturday. Do you guys have any special techniques for getting the torque on the pinion nut right after I reinstall the yoke? Also do I NEED a new pinion nut since I'm removing it? I'm really surprised this seal is leaking after only a thousand miles of street driving. Thanks again for the help!
those seals are just often tempermental. it's not uncommon.

honestly, i just hit it with an impact and call it good. that's just me. i'm sure there's a specific tq number.
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post #6 of 19 Old 07-22-2010, 08:09 AM
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just my 2 cents but i have seen them seep oil from the pinion shaft splines.
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post #7 of 19 Old 07-22-2010, 08:15 AM
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While your ordering id pick up a few spares

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post #8 of 19 Old 07-22-2010, 08:40 AM Thread Starter
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Called and spoke with Currie and ordered the seal but the guy on the phone said he thought it was just overfilled. Evidently the guy I talked to at Currie told me to put 3.5 quarts in and this guy said the most I want in there is 3 quarts. He said the oil level should be about 3 inches below the fill hole. Mine is only about 1.5 inches below the hole. He said that was a LOT of oil. I'm gonna go pump some out and drive it around and see what happens. Here's hoping!!
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post #9 of 19 Old 07-22-2010, 07:30 PM
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Hope it was all just too much oil. If not I DO NOT recommend just "hitting it with an impact wrench". There is a specific process for putting a pinion nut back on. First, you should NOT reuse a pinion nut unless absolutely necessary. The torque on the nut is specific to each axle due to the gear setup and the pinion crush sleeve. If you just take it off, replace the seal and tighten it up to some random torque, you may screw up the preload causing failure. What you want to do is measure your bearing drag with an inch pound old school style torque wrench and replace the pinion nut and tighten it till you get the same bearing drag, and use a new pinion nut as when they are new they are designed to deform a little (I believe) so that they do not back out. If you MUST reuse the pinion nut, use a ton of locktite if you do not want your fancy 60 to explode when the yoke and pinion nut fly off on the highway, throwing the pinion into your carrier, and possibly destroying the housing as well.

Just some words of advise. For some horror stories just google "reuse pinion nut" that might keep you from just throwing it together.

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post #10 of 19 Old 07-22-2010, 11:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jscwerve View Post
Hope it was all just too much oil. If not I DO NOT recommend just "hitting it with an impact wrench". There is a specific process for putting a pinion nut back on. First, you should NOT reuse a pinion nut unless absolutely necessary. The torque on the nut is specific to each axle due to the gear setup and the pinion crush sleeve. If you just take it off, replace the seal and tighten it up to some random torque, you may screw up the preload causing failure. What you want to do is measure your bearing drag with an inch pound old school style torque wrench and replace the pinion nut and tighten it till you get the same bearing drag, and use a new pinion nut as when they are new they are designed to deform a little (I believe) so that they do not back out. If you MUST reuse the pinion nut, use a ton of locktite if you do not want your fancy 60 to explode when the yoke and pinion nut fly off on the highway, throwing the pinion into your carrier, and possibly destroying the housing as well.

Just some words of advise. For some horror stories just google "reuse pinion nut" that might keep you from just throwing it together.


unless you have the most bad ass impact gun on the planet (or a 3/4" one or the like) it will not crush the crush sleeve. which is what sets preload. it takes a breaker bar with about a 4' extension to do that if you zip it down untill it's tight it should be fine.

when we do gear setups we use an in/lb meter to check preload, but you adjust that in about 1/8th to 1/4 turn incriments on the pinion nut. and it takes a LOT of tq to do it.

go buy a nut and tq it if you want, it's not my fancy d60. But considering you have to pull the carrier to check preload you REALLY don't need an in/lb meter to replace a pinion seal though... but whatever.

Last edited by 2k2wranglerx; 07-23-2010 at 12:10 AM.
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post #11 of 19 Old 07-23-2010, 06:55 AM
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an impact gun works fine for crushing the crush sleeve. i used an electric gun from harbor freight. i would venture to say that most shops use an impact instead of a breaker bar. if you dont use an impact you have to hold the pinion from turning. you do need to be carefull not to over crush the sleeve. i believe it is something like 500 ft lbs. setting pre load is best done with an inch pound torque wrench. we did the 'spin' method to check pre load. once there is no play in the pinion you spin the flange to see how much preload is there and when it feels right, less then half turn free spool your good. not the most technical way but it works if youve done them before. have fun
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post #12 of 19 Old 07-23-2010, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by bubba2u View Post
an impact gun works fine for crushing the crush sleeve. i used an electric gun from harbor freight. i would venture to say that most shops use an impact instead of a breaker bar. if you dont use an impact you have to hold the pinion from turning. you do need to be carefull not to over crush the sleeve. i believe it is something like 500 ft lbs. setting pre load is best done with an inch pound torque wrench. we did the 'spin' method to check pre load. once there is no play in the pinion you spin the flange to see how much preload is there and when it feels right, less then half turn free spool your good. not the most technical way but it works if youve done them before. have fun
I have never had an impact gun be able to crush the crush sleeve. I'll be interested to hear if some of the big axle guys do it that way. Of course my compressor is only at 150 psi, but it won't even get close to crushing it. Believe me I tried! It woulda been helluva lot easier than locking the flange in place with extensions! Now maybe they have a 3/4 or 1" drive that'll do the job (as stated above) but I've never had a normal gun crush it.

As far as pinion preload. I doubt he's pulling his shafts and carrier to change a pinion seal, so it doesn't matter. He just needs to zip it down till its tight.

Even if he pays a shop to do it, they're not going to reset the preload. They're gonna zip it down tight.
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post #13 of 19 Old 07-23-2010, 07:41 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the replies everyone! Yesterday I went ahead and dumped all the gear oil out and cleaned it out really really good. Sealed it all back up and added 3 quarts of 85-140 and then drove it around for a couple hours. So far no leak at all. I can't believe a half a quart was that much to make it leak out the seal but so far I don't have a drop of oil leaking. I'm going to drive the crap out of it over the next few days and see what happens!

I went ahead and ordered the pinion seal just in case I need to replace it on Monday or Tuesday. Wish me luck!
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post #14 of 19 Old 07-26-2010, 08:57 PM Thread Starter
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Alright guys, turns out the pinion seal is still leaking and I leave for my trip on Wednesday. I'm going to replace the seal tomorrow at lunch and just wanted to confirm a few things. I called Currie and asked for their recommendation for setting the pinion preload, I was told the rock jock does not use a crush sleeve so i wouldn't need to worry about it. They said just retorque the pinion nut to 120 ft-lbs and be done with it. Does this sound right to you? That seems awfully low to me and does the currie absolutely not use a crush sleeve? Any feedback would be great! Thanks guys!
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post #15 of 19 Old 07-27-2010, 05:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdahlum View Post
Alright guys, turns out the pinion seal is still leaking and I leave for my trip on Wednesday. I'm going to replace the seal tomorrow at lunch and just wanted to confirm a few things. I called Currie and asked for their recommendation for setting the pinion preload, I was told the rock jock does not use a crush sleeve so i wouldn't need to worry about it. They said just retorque the pinion nut to 120 ft-lbs and be done with it. Does this sound right to you? That seems awfully low to me and does the currie absolutely not use a crush sleeve? Any feedback would be great! Thanks guys!
If Currie told you that themselves then it should be pretty reliable info.

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post #16 of 19 Old 07-27-2010, 06:47 AM Thread Starter
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Currie is the one who had me overfill it to begin with so I thought I would check and see what the board thought......
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post #17 of 19 Old 07-27-2010, 07:43 AM
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i would think if the pinion does not use a crush sleeve then it is set up with shims. so there advise on torque sounds right.
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post #18 of 19 Old 07-27-2010, 03:47 PM
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The Currie Rock Jock is set up with preload shims under the upper pinion bearing and does not use a crush sleeve. The factory Dana 30 and 44 use a crush sleeve. I have had an air gun be able to crush the rear sleeve, but I use a 3/4" Snap On Breaker Bar and a special steelplate I made that bolts to the front pinion flange and smacks the control arm to hold it in place while I crush the sleeve.
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post #19 of 19 Old 07-27-2010, 06:30 PM
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Dana 60's use shims and not crush sleeves so just swap the seal and crank down on the pinion nut, you are supposed to use a new nut but you could get away with just using loctite. The torque spec on the pinion nut is @40-300 ft-lbs but I usually just crank down with a good 1/2 drive impact.

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