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post #51 of 299 Old 09-18-2016, 08:29 PM
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Are you going to keep the WB at 120"?

Keep in mind, when your in 4wd, your AS number will be half of what it is in 2wd.

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post #52 of 299 Old 09-19-2016, 05:22 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gt1guy View Post
Are you going to keep the WB at 120"?

Keep in mind, when your in 4wd, your AS number will be half of what it is in 2wd.
Unless something doesn't work out when running it through its travel and steering, yeah it's set.

I feel like AS numbers in the calculator are not accurate. Changing the COG height changes AS drastically, and pretty sure no one really knows that number accurately.
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post #53 of 299 Old 09-19-2016, 08:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cody48 View Post
Unless something doesn't work out when running it through its travel and steering, yeah it's set.

I feel like AS numbers in the calculator are not accurate. Changing the COG height changes AS drastically, and pretty sure no one really knows that number accurately.
Very true on the CG. I see you do have multiple mounting holes on your rear upper. That's always a good thing.

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post #54 of 299 Old 09-19-2016, 08:51 AM
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Very nice looking build!
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post #55 of 299 Old 09-19-2016, 09:29 AM
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I would get the AS up a bit more. Drop that lower mount and get numbers higher. I was at just over 100% before making some recent changes that dropped me down to 40% and it is a huge difference. Lots of squat when accelerating and feels less stable on the highway. I will be raising the uppers to get up so I can get 80% AS and may drop the lowers an inch if it still feels squishy during acceleration. At 100% it was rock solid and predictable on the highway, just a slight squat when hitting the accelerator.

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post #56 of 299 Old 09-19-2016, 09:40 AM
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Actually after looking at the calc and the photos of the mount I would raise the frame side lowers up about 2"-3" which will get the AS up and give you better ground clearance.

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post #57 of 299 Old 09-19-2016, 01:08 PM Thread Starter
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Frame side lowers are fully welded in, and also they BARELY clear the frame at full compression. All I can do is rotate the axle side mounts down on the tube.

How do you know your numbers were accurate? What numbers did you use for COG?
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post #58 of 299 Old 09-19-2016, 02:08 PM
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I used 36" for COG and did not change that when I made the changes in the mounts.

The forward convergence point of the upper and lower links are the biggest factory in AS. Rule of thumb is to try and get the convergence around the motor area.

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post #59 of 299 Old 09-20-2016, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
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post #60 of 299 Old 09-20-2016, 07:47 PM
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Looking good!
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post #61 of 299 Old 09-20-2016, 08:57 PM
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Looks like you are going to have some good bump steer with that drag link mounted that high.

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post #62 of 299 Old 09-21-2016, 04:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
Looks like you are going to have some good bump steer with that drag link mounted that high.


It does appear your trackbar is at less of an angle than the drag link.

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post #63 of 299 Old 09-21-2016, 09:17 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah they look like they don't line up perfectly. That's how the brackets were built. I may have to do some adjusting somewhere. I don't think it's as bad as it looks, the bend in the drag link gives an illusion that it is steeper than it really is
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post #64 of 299 Old 09-21-2016, 09:24 AM
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Pull a string from bolt to bolt and they should be parallel, by the looks of those links they are not even close to that. Looks like the axle side should be at the bottom bolt or lower.

did the new frame side bracket drop the mounting position? Looks like it is way lower then where it should be.

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post #65 of 299 Old 09-21-2016, 09:40 AM
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Bump Steer

I'm gonna have to agree with Dirtman. That bracket raised the track bar quite a bit. It looks like you might have issues with contacting the diff if you lower it into the bottom hole. Try to find a way to raise that drag link an equal amount, or I have seen some people get a lower pitman arm, when they raise the track bar that high, accompanied by a drag link flip (i'm guessing you were gonna do a different DL anyway). Just like Dirtman said though, tie you a string bolt hole to bolt hole on DL and TB, then work out a way to get those strings as parallel as possible while preventing contact on your axle.

edit: Very nice build, really liking how you are coming along.

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post #66 of 299 Old 09-22-2016, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
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Anyone know exactly how much drop a drop pitman arm gives?
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post #67 of 299 Old 09-22-2016, 01:06 PM
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I would avoid a drop pitman arm if possible. It will change the vector force applied to the sector shaft and not in a positive way.

How many degrees from parallel are the trackbar and drag link?

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post #68 of 299 Old 09-22-2016, 06:52 PM
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Everyone always says the rule of thumb is to keep them parallel bolt to bolt. Problem is they are different lengths. I think the goal is to actually get the arcs the most similar while near ride height. I actually had to make mine about 5 degrees off to get rid of bump steer. That being said, I agree with dirtman that it looks like it needs a little tweaking.

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post #69 of 299 Old 09-23-2016, 01:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wannarun View Post
I would avoid a drop pitman arm if possible. It will change the vector force applied to the sector shaft and not in a positive way.

How many degrees from parallel are the trackbar and drag link?


Accompanied with hydro, I wouldn't have a second thought about running it.
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post #70 of 299 Old 09-23-2016, 07:51 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckTheRipper View Post
Accompanied with hydro, I wouldn't have a second thought about running it.
Good point. I agree, getting further away from the shaft bearings is not a good thing. Although, the hydraulic cylinder will take much of the load off the steering box.

Again, does anyone know how much drop they are? I could use only about 1/2-3/4" drop

Last edited by cody48; 09-23-2016 at 07:54 AM.
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post #71 of 299 Old 09-23-2016, 07:53 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chitown35 View Post
Everyone always says the rule of thumb is to keep them parallel bolt to bolt. Problem is they are different lengths. I think the goal is to actually get the arcs the most similar while near ride height. I actually had to make mine about 5 degrees off to get rid of bump steer. That being said, I agree with dirtman that it looks like it needs a little tweaking.
I noticed this as well. Depending on my ride height, they line up perfectly or they are off about an inch out at the drag link joint.

I have decided to redo the front suspension. There is not enough up travel with the ride height I want, so I will be changing a few things, one of them be moving the track bar down a hole at the axle and cutting off the top of the bracket.
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post #72 of 299 Old 09-23-2016, 08:24 AM
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You typically see about 2" of drop on the JK drop pitman arms but you may be able to find other vehicles that have more drop then the factory JK arm.

The drag link and track bar should be parallel and as flat as possible at ride height to prevent bump steer. The fact that they are different lengths and move in different arc is not an issue with the length that they are. The shorter link moves in a tighter arc which is required when you droop one side of the axle since it rotates around a fixed point.

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post #73 of 299 Old 10-05-2016, 09:08 AM Thread Starter
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Did a little changing up of the front end. Now have it like I want it and should be ready for welding out.



Ride Height







5.25" up travel after subracting for the spring cup


Last edited by cody48; 10-05-2016 at 09:10 AM.
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post #74 of 299 Old 10-05-2016, 09:16 AM Thread Starter
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After remeasuring the rear suspension mounting points with my laser, I went back to the calculator to see what I had and make adjustments.

I think this is the right photo with changes made. (Ignore Panhard Bar)



So this anchor has to go.



Needed to move the LCA frame mount up 2.50" so I drew up my own mount. Much happier with this.







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post #75 of 299 Old 10-05-2016, 09:29 AM Thread Starter
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Been trying to figure out the rear coilover mounting. There must be a big difference in the frames on the earlier year model jk's cause the towers VKS sent me were way too short to mount the shock on top of the axle and even still too short to have the lower shock mounts at the bottom behind the axle.

I went ahead and drew up my own new shock towers.







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