Reid Racing Knuckles w/ Rock Krawler??? - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 11 Old 07-14-2010, 11:51 PM Thread Starter
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Reid Racing Knuckles w/ Rock Krawler???

I have a Rock Krawler 5.5" Triple Threat Lift, and wanted to find out if anyone has experience using the Reid Racing High-Clearance Steering Knuckles with this kit or not?

Thanks!

RC

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post #2 of 11 Old 07-15-2010, 05:23 AM
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yes, and it works great seeing as the RK kit already flips the drag link.
But note: if you are running a heavy duty tie rod (PolyPerformance in my case) you will need to take a flap wheel or grinder to the bottom edge of your track bar mount.
AT full turn it will juuuuuust kiss the bottom edge, if you grind the bottom 1/2" or so at a 45* angle it clears it fine.

You will need to re-locate your steering stabalizer. I would reccomend something like the PolyPerformance kit or something like that to place the stabalizer above the tie rod mounted to the track bar mount. Also the PP kit last I looked is strong enough to use for a hydro assist mount should you ever chose that route.

You will also have to set the steering stops as the Reid knuckles have cast in stops and dual ones at that. I think I cut off like 1/8" of the rear ones and added a little weld to the front ones so they hit at the same time. This all depends on your wheel/tire/axle combo anyway

but the knuckles kick ass.
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post #3 of 11 Old 07-15-2010, 08:51 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by usmcdoc14 View Post
yes, and it works great seeing as the RK kit already flips the drag link.
But note: if you are running a heavy duty tie rod (PolyPerformance in my case) you will need to take a flap wheel or grinder to the bottom edge of your track bar mount.
AT full turn it will juuuuuust kiss the bottom edge, if you grind the bottom 1/2" or so at a 45* angle it clears it fine.

You will need to re-locate your steering stabalizer. I would reccomend something like the PolyPerformance kit or something like that to place the stabalizer above the tie rod mounted to the track bar mount. Also the PP kit last I looked is strong enough to use for a hydro assist mount should you ever chose that route.

You will also have to set the steering stops as the Reid knuckles have cast in stops and dual ones at that. I think I cut off like 1/8" of the rear ones and added a little weld to the front ones so they hit at the same time. This all depends on your wheel/tire/axle combo anyway

but the knuckles kick ass.

Thanks, Doc, this was exactly what I was looking for. I'm already running the RK HD tie-rod, so I wasn't sure if anyone had fitment problems going that route. I almost bought the Poly tie-rod, but since I had decided on RK and was ordering everything, I decided to keep it the same.

When you say that I'll have to set the steering stops, and that you cut off 1/8", did you mean that you literally "machined off" an 1/8" from the knuckle for better clearance here?

Thanks again!

RC

A lot of chit coming...

W9DRC

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post #4 of 11 Old 07-15-2010, 09:18 AM
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The steering stops in the Reid Knuckles are a CAST SOLID part, not a bolt in a threaded hole like factory, so there is no worry of bending them. And there are 4 of them (stock have 2) a pair on the front and a pair on the back side

in order to "adjust" the steering stops you grind off material from the stop itself.You turn the wheel till it hits the stop, look and go "ok I can go a little more" and grind off some more.
Both of my stops hit at the same time, by this I mean the REAR stop of one side hits at the same time the FRONT stop of the other one does.

now mind you this is dictated by a few things:

Tire size, are you hitting shit when turning?
Running CV shafts or U joints? (CV will get more angle)

So don't take off more than you need, make sure you have the ability to turn that far and not tear shit up
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post #5 of 11 Old 07-15-2010, 03:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by usmcdoc14 View Post
The steering stops in the Reid Knuckles are a CAST SOLID part, not a bolt in a threaded hole like factory, so there is no worry of bending them. And there are 4 of them (stock have 2) a pair on the front and a pair on the back side

in order to "adjust" the steering stops you grind off material from the stop itself.You turn the wheel till it hits the stop, look and go "ok I can go a little more" and grind off some more.
Both of my stops hit at the same time, by this I mean the REAR stop of one side hits at the same time the FRONT stop of the other one does.

now mind you this is dictated by a few things:

Tire size, are you hitting shit when turning?
Running CV shafts or U joints? (CV will get more angle)

So don't take off more than you need, make sure you have the ability to turn that far and not tear shit up
Did you have the orange boots off your RCV's when you set your steering stops or were your tires the limiting factor?
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post #6 of 11 Old 07-15-2010, 07:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alaska-HWY JK View Post
Did you have the orange boots off your RCV's when you set your steering stops or were your tires the limiting factor?
see, a person who pays attention


This is one of the things you pay attention to when setting steering stops. u-joint bind or CV bind.

Yes and yes, boots off and could get more till bind but I wanted as much turn as I could get with the wheels turned. I need to re-do it because I clearanced some shit and I have diffrent fenders.
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post #7 of 11 Old 07-15-2010, 07:55 PM
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Thanks, I was wondering with the unground stops on the Reids and the RCV's. RCV told me that was the only thing that would screw warranty was over turning them.
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post #8 of 11 Old 07-16-2010, 07:22 AM
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I've been looking at these knuckles. I've got on order the ulitimate steering kit from RK in aluminum. I'm curious how this kit will work with the knuckles?

Current project jeep 08' wrangler 2dr
Past jeep:
- 07' Rubicon 4 dr, RAMICON- 3.5" ROCK KRAWLER Coil-Over lift
- 5.38 gears- Gusseted/Trussed/inner sleeved
- 40" Pro Comp X-Terrain

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post #9 of 11 Old 07-18-2010, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by usmcdoc14 View Post
see, a person who pays attention


This is one of the things you pay attention to when setting steering stops. u-joint bind or CV bind.

Yes and yes, boots off and could get more till bind but I wanted as much turn as I could get with the wheels turned. I need to re-do it because I clearanced some shit and I have diffrent fenders.

Great replies and info... So, am I to understand that you left your boots on, to ensure less bind before adjusting the stops, or am I misunderstanding this?

RC

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post #10 of 11 Old 07-18-2010, 07:51 PM
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You put it together with the orange boots off and crank the steering in both directions to check that the ball part of the RCV axle isn't contacting the axle shaft. You can grind the cast steering stops on the Reid knuckles till you're just short of contact there. Also your tire width will limit what you grind off.
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post #11 of 11 Old 07-19-2010, 12:01 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alaska-HWY JK View Post
You put it together with the orange boots off and crank the steering in both directions to check that the ball part of the RCV axle isn't contacting the axle shaft. You can grind the cast steering stops on the Reid knuckles till you're just short of contact there. Also your tire width will limit what you grind off.
Good stuff, thanks for the tips. The front-end with RCVs are next, so I want to make sure that I get it dialed in, just right...

Here is the thread on my build:

https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32642

RC

A lot of chit coming...

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