Rock Krawler Lift Tuning Advice??? - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 07-12-2010, 11:04 PM Thread Starter
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Rock Krawler Lift Tuning Advice???

I just had my Rock Krawler 5.5" Triple Threat Long-Arm Lift Kit installed, with Bilstein 5100's, and I took it out for a little tuning run to see where the baseline was set at.

Besides having a lot of bump stop smacking in the rear, I've noticed that she squats or gives in the rear, quite easily, almost as if the shocks are too weak or pussified. The front seems responsive, and like the shocks were built to work with the lift perfectly (as RK recommends).

Does anyone have any thoughts on the softness or squatting in the rear? It seems too soft and I'm not sure if it is the Bilsteins, or if I need to further tune the suspension.

Any of you that have had experience, please chime in...

RC

A lot of chit coming...

W9DRC

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post #2 of 8 Old 07-13-2010, 06:37 AM
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Did you put the upper link in the middle hole? Mine doesn't squat at all under full throttle from a stop... I have 5150s though but it's hard to believe that the difference between those two shocks would make that much difference.

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post #3 of 8 Old 07-13-2010, 08:36 AM
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The 5150's should be a little firmer than the 5100's for the same application. Ride quality is really subjective and people can change overall ride an feel in many ways. By moving the upper link you can change the amount of anti-squat in the rear! If you want less squat, then go up!

We are here to help so if you have any questions, let us know.

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post #4 of 8 Old 07-13-2010, 08:50 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prope View Post
Did you put the upper link in the middle hole? Mine doesn't squat at all under full throttle from a stop... I have 5150s though but it's hard to believe that the difference between those two shocks would make that much difference.
Thanks. I was close to going with the 5150s, and for whatever reason I decided to go for the 5100s. I'm not sure if it's the shock or the tweaking yet.

RC

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rock Krawler Suspension View Post
The 5150's should be a little firmer than the 5100's for the same application. Ride quality is really subjective and people can change overall ride an feel in many ways. By moving the upper link you can change the amount of anti-squat in the rear! If you want less squat, then go up!

We are here to help so if you have any questions, let us know.

RK
Thanks, I appreciate it. When you are referring to up, you mean on the third link at the truss, correct?

Thanks!

RC

A lot of chit coming...

W9DRC

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post #5 of 8 Old 07-13-2010, 08:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cruzcode View Post
Thanks, I appreciate it. When you are referring to up, you mean on the third link at the truss, correct?

Thanks!

RC
Yep, the top out of the three bolt holes! Post up how it changes for you.

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post #6 of 8 Old 07-13-2010, 09:10 AM
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How much uptravel do you have in the rear shocks??? Did you maybe get the hocks too long, and with the shock relocation brackets, it made them too short? The rear of the JK is an interesting issue for getting shocks that will work "right" in there, meaning having the correct amount of uptravel vs droop. Usually you will have more uptravel than you can use (due to the length of the shock needed for the proper amount of droop) and will need to bumpstop the uptravel. As far as "anti-squat" adjustments, I think its beyond the scope of the "average" wheelers "seat of the pants feel" and should be left in the neutral position.

Joe
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post #7 of 8 Old 07-13-2010, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prope View Post
Yep, the top out of the three bolt holes! Post up how it changes for you.
Yes, this is what I was thinking... I have it at the transmission shop getting the gears, locker, and axles, installed. As soon as I get it back, I'll try this mounting location change, and let you know how it goes.

Thanks for the tip, Prope!

RC

Quote:
Originally Posted by Absolute Offroad View Post
How much uptravel do you have in the rear shocks??? Did you maybe get the hocks too long, and with the shock relocation brackets, it made them too short? The rear of the JK is an interesting issue for getting shocks that will work "right" in there, meaning having the correct amount of uptravel vs droop. Usually you will have more uptravel than you can use (due to the length of the shock needed for the proper amount of droop) and will need to bumpstop the uptravel. As far as "anti-squat" adjustments, I think its beyond the scope of the "average" wheelers "seat of the pants feel" and should be left in the neutral position.

Joe

Joe,

I'll have to get back with you on the uptravel regarding the rear Bilsteins. I do know that Jeremy gave me the shock extended and compressed lengths for this kit, so I could do my shopping. When I ordered the Bilsteins, if my memory serves me correctly, the rear were within 1/8" of either the min or the max on the required measurements, while the front were a bit shorter, meaning my total travel and articulation would be limited by the shock's travel (again, up front).

I do know that I have one of three issues A) wrong shocks, B) wrong shock lengths, or C) wrong third-link mounting location.

Granted, my bump stops were way too low (extended), but everytime I hit a small bump, the rear-end didn't just "bump" the bump stops, it smacked them harder than Mike Tyson hit Robin Givens. It was not normal.

The bump stops have already been adjusted up, and I'll see how it rides when I get it back from the transmission shop tomorrow.

Thanks!

RC

A lot of chit coming...

W9DRC

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post #8 of 8 Old 07-14-2010, 07:15 AM
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Sir

Go by our compressed length when you are looking to pair up shocks. That way you ensure yourself you have enough usable compression for street use. If the shock falls a little short on the extended length, then so be it. What we provide for measurements is the optimum length.

What shock did you end up using in the rear anyway? If it is a Bilstein 5100, what is the part number?

Rock Krawler
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