MY unlimited needs to grow up a little!!! - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 07-08-2010, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
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MY unlimited needs to grow up a little!!!

OK ive been going back and forth for some time now, I have a stock 2010 unlimited IF i trim my air dam on the front can i run a 315/70/17 or 16 on a say cragar soft 8 with 4.5 inches or less of backspace, with no daily driving issues, because I cannot afford both a lift and tire/rim change at this time.I undersand i may have issue on flex but it will not be off pavement till i can afford a 2.5 lift.With that amount of backspacing will i have much rubbing on full turn? I need to lose the stock rims and tires badly but still need to feed the family!!!I dont want to get 33 and then be envious of you guys running 35 s. please help my jeep needs to grow up a little!!!
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post #2 of 10 Old 07-08-2010, 08:45 PM
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I understand and have felt your pain. I decided to just do a simple and very low cost body lift from Rough Country.($110)The 1.25"BL was all I needed for daily driving with my new wheels and 35's. Of course I couldn't go offroad and wheel it but at least I wasn't running the skinny 16's anymore. You can just pull of the air dam and throw it away. It will come off if you go offroad anyway. The tires looked crowded but it worked for a couple months until I could get a suspension lift. Here is the transition without a stock picture since everyone knows what that looks like.
Money coming slowly was part of why I did this in stages. One other thing I recommend to everyone is to put EVO C gussets on because big tires can bend these even with mild offroad. They are worth the money and time. I put these on both my JK's.

Pics:
Body lift with stock skinnys



Body lift with 35's note: I use 15" wheels so yours will look a little different. Part of the reason I go 15 is the cost of tires. 35"BFG KM2's $190 and my wheels were only $100each




Suspension lift : Rusty's 3.25 and BL Rusty's $550 -Coils,shocks,adjustable trac bars front and rear. I have been very pleased with the lift. I will get adjustable lower front control arms but it's fine for now. Yes, I wheel it pretty hard as well.



Current look with some chopped fenders and other mods.

Last edited by 4x4x4; 07-08-2010 at 09:41 PM.
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post #3 of 10 Old 07-08-2010, 09:27 PM
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Yeah I say go spacer lift (low cost) or spring lift (a little more) and run 35"s. You are aleady thinking about 35"s so you wouldn't be happy with 33"s. - my .02 worth

^ coperhead is a great looking JK!

08 2Door Red Rubicon. Rock Krawler 5.5 Longarm Coilover, Polly rear Coilovers. AEV hood & wheels, 37"KM2s, JE Reel 1350 shafts, 5.38 Yukon gears, Superior axles, Shrockworks stubby, Fab Fours rear, sPod, Rebel Offroad brakes, Warn winch and lots more.

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post #4 of 10 Old 07-09-2010, 02:48 AM Thread Starter
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THATS LOOKS GREAT. DO YOU THINK I COULD GET AWAY WITHOUT THE BODY LIFT OR WOULD THAT BE CUTTING IT TOOOO CLOSE? IF I RAN A 35 THAT MEASURED A LITTLE SMALLER WOULD THAT WORK ALSO?
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post #5 of 10 Old 07-09-2010, 02:50 AM Thread Starter
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I HAVE CHECKED YOUR JEEP OUT SEVERAL TIMES SINCE BEING ON THIS SITE YOU HAVE A REALLY SHARP JEEP! DID YOU LEAVE THE GRILL LETTERS ON AND JUST BEDLINE OVERTHEM ?
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post #6 of 10 Old 07-09-2010, 06:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dola12 View Post
I HAVE CHECKED YOUR JEEP OUT SEVERAL TIMES SINCE BEING ON THIS SITE YOU HAVE A REALLY SHARP JEEP! DID YOU LEAVE THE GRILL LETTERS ON AND JUST BEDLINE OVERTHEM ?
Going to need the body lift.

Thanks-Your Jeep has the same foundation it just takes time to make it what you want. The platform is so versatile that everyone can have the Jeep they dream about. I have looked at what I like from everyone's Jeep pics and took my favorite things from others. My list is the main reason it has come together. My wife suggested that I make the list and then we know what I am working towards and not waste money on little things that I can get later. Mod list in signature. I really wanted the cool front bumper but my free bumper with hooks and fogs chopped has worked well until I can build my new one. The back bumper is more important to get the spare off the tailgate. This is the list talking! Right now I am saving for my HF/VHF/UHF ham radio so I have communications no matter where I go. I am sure it's not on very many wish lists, but it's important to me.


I just bedlined over the letters. You need to use fine sandpaper to give it a texture in order to stick. Once you (start-key word) sanding on new paint you just get over it. Even with sanding you will still find spots that will need to be touched up but it's so easy it's no big deal.

Last edited by 4x4x4; 07-09-2010 at 07:30 AM.
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post #7 of 10 Old 07-09-2010, 02:49 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info! how difficult is it to install 1.25 body lift?I did a frame off on a 65 impala ss many years ago and did all new mounts on that! Is there basic info on the kit as to install the easiest and best way?I will check out the forum to see if any posts I can check out! I guess i will install the body lift ,bedline the grill cause thats looks the SHIT!!! and chop the Front bumper and lose the air dam to get some off the list of many mods too come as the money becomes available!!!Your jeep has always stood out as to one i want mine to eventually become!Thanls Again
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post #8 of 10 Old 07-09-2010, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
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I checked out the rough country and the daystar. looks like w the daystar you just add entensions to the stock studs. Is there much of a issue with removal of factory studs to run the rough country?Is this just a convienence thing 1 less step? Just the 12 mounts and nothing else?no issues on the shifter gas fill ect?What would you recomend any any pointers would be greatly appreciated its been a while since ive wrenched on a vehicle the last was a lifted blazer and like i said a 65 impala so im a little rusty! Im sure it will all come back in time
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post #9 of 10 Old 07-09-2010, 09:03 PM
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It's not hard at all. I will look for some of my directions on the lift I think I posted them. I will post back after searching.This is what I found from the install:

You don't need to worry about the fuel lines or anything. If you have a manual I think you need to trim under the shifter boot. I have an auto so nothing else. Just follow the directions.

It was not difficult but it took me a while to install because my vertigo is still acting up after my accident. It looks just like I had hoped and no issues. I painted the back tailgate area black. I lifted the back bumper 1 inch so it will not be noticeable when completed.

I have a couple tips for those that go this route. Body Lift Tips
1. The factory has retainer washers on the long bolts so I used my wash brush (you could use anything)to put pressure on the large washer once it felt loose. Otherwise the bolt just keeps spinning and would not come out on several of the bolts.

2. I used a 2x4 and that same brush with a 3/4" box end wrench to knock out the studs on the factory body mounts. It took me several tries to find a good way to get them out. In the end I was able to whack them out with 3-4 blows with the hammer. I used the 2x4 to flatten the metal back straight after you get the studs out. (See pic below)

Here is what I have now. Working the Plan!!!

Before:



After:




Front grill :





orange paint rear gap:





Fixed gap:



Stealth Body Lift! :synister: Bumper right back to original height. You can see here that my side brackets are up one bolt hole. If you look closely you can see the bottom hole open now.



Stud removal:



I got this part from I guy I think it was: Shortbus


To remove the gap in the bumper:
Items you will need:

16mm Socket
Drill
13/32 Drill Bit
10mm-1.5 nuts (2)
Lock Washers (2)



First remove your rear bumper and all four brackets from the bumper. Take the side brackets and mount them to the frame by shifting the lower bracket bolt hole to the upper hole in the frame. This will shift your side mounting brackets up about one inch. Now mark where you will need to drill the new upper hole. Drill the new hole and place the original bolt through the frame. Place one lock washer on, and then the nut. You have plenty of room for your hand to thread the nut. The lock washer will keep the nut from spinning while retorqueing the bolt. Repeat on the other side.

Last edited by 4x4x4; 07-09-2010 at 10:07 PM.
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post #10 of 10 Old 07-10-2010, 11:41 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks a whole bunch!!! now to order the body lift and do one piece of the puzzle at a time!!!
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