Lo range high idle fixed! - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 3 Old 06-30-2010, 07:59 AM Thread Starter
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Lo range high idle fixed!

To see the history of what I'm talking about read from page 6 in this thread.... http://forum.aev-conversions.com/sho...2714#post12714

You can see my original post on jko here https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?p=472668

Using the specs from the FSM for the output of the tcase position sensor, I wired in a resistor on a switch to the output signal of the sensor to the TIPM. The specs for the sensor can be seen here http://www.jeepfan.com/tech/JKLockerHacks.php .......however they are kinda wrong for my jeep and probably all jeeps. Instead of position 5 not being used, position 3 is not used. 2HI is ~1200 ohms, 4HI is 680, N is 210, and 4L is 60. I used 2, 1.3k Ohm resistors in parallel to get right on 620 Ohms. When I'm in 4L, the computer sees 60 Ohms, flip the switch and its seeing 680 aka 4HI. This still allows the use of the e-disco but drops the idle back down to 600 RPM. The jeep crawls noticeably slower, but can be used either way.

The worst part of the whole job other than figuring out the wrong parts of the FSM were removing the stupid huge battery tray thing for easy access to the firewall. Its a tedious job, but nothing to technical. Of course I had to hack the lockers while I was at it so they could still be used, just using the switched ground method found on that same page referenced above. The only other thing with tricking the computer is that the ESP is still on in 4HI, just hold the button for 5 seconds each time you start the jeep, and viola, ESP is 100% off. I haven't trail tested it yet, just backyard testing, but it works flawlessly so far with no weird lights or problems.

I used switches with red covers, not lighted, and just installed them all on the removable plastic panel below the factory lockers and such. of course, everything still works the factory way, if you want to use it that way. Maybe down the road I'll hack the swaybar and install another switch right there for it.

Maybe I'm the only one that will like this, but I doubt it. The slower the better when it comes to LO+first gear.

I guess this should be in modified, sorry, I just searched for my old posts and replied to it. Maybe someone with the power can move it, the whole thread I mean?

LJ Rubicon
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post #2 of 3 Old 06-30-2010, 09:06 AM
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Good job! This goes to show that someone out there should also have the info of the resistor value and wires to jump to fix the swaybar disco light for when they go out on us Rubi guys as well as a way to fool other values, ESP, ac (I already did) and many other things. Also it seems that u
for us Rubi guys fooling it that way could be another way to fool the computer for locker use. More difficult, probably but different none the less.

2008 JK 4Dr Rubicon
Stone white
Mygig W/Uconnect working.
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First mod, dog slobber.
Painted hard top
Spidertraxx 1.5 spacers
Teraflex 3" lift
Currie front lower control arms
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Post count from the "other" place when i was following the "herd" was 692 on 4-2-09, not a noob...

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post #3 of 3 Old 06-30-2010, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
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If you have a swaybar light that you need to get rid of, the procal can do it.

As far as hacking the sway bar, venom is the only one I've seen do it. It isn't even a hack, just a total rewire of the system, but I wanna do that too. The problem with fooling the computer and faking the tcase position sensor value is, you can only fake a higher value than what is already there. There is no easy way to remove resistance. For example making it think you're in LO when you're in 2H or 4H. You could remove the sensor all together and run a series of switches with different resistors to mimic each tcase position, but the swaybar will always reengage above 18mph unless you do it Venoms way.

I was just out playing in a huge rockgarden today near my house. Its actually a large construction site thats been put on hold, and the few guys there said its all good. The area has a few "roads" through it, but the rocks are all natural, part of it looks like rock creek up at Rausch Creek if you've seen that. It crawls great, and doesn't ever want to stall.

LJ Rubicon
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