So mine is now running like crap full time. It feels like a bad injector or spark plug on one cylinder but no codes are being generated. Though I have not checked recently, the MAP sensor seemed to be working properly and provided identical readings to the boost gauge, which is on its own discrete MAP sensor and controller. I have been wanting to do a tear down and inspect of the blower and intercooler now that I have some time and mileage on the kit. I also want to do a spark plug swap.
I also used the SCT tune sent by edelbrock. (I've also run 93 octane in it for as long as I've owned it, not sure if that will play into tuning or not)
Unless you are running a tune that advances your ignition timing the higher octane tune does nothing. The Edelbrock tune is for 91. If you want to use 93 (or I found similar results with 91+Lucas octane booster) then you need a tune to go with it so you can get more timing. Timing = HP. I got a 100 octane tune for the SC and while it runs great I think it was a waste now that I have WMI. I end up using the custom 91 octane tune (which gives me more timing and more fuel on the top I think to cool the combustion temps so even more timing can be brought in) which runs better than the canned Edelbrock tune. I just tweak the WOT timing setting on my own with the trinity. I do hope to get a proper WMI tune but I want to tie in the failsafe features of the Aquamist first since changing a tune file takes a lot longer than doing timing adjustments via "quick adjust."
From what I gathered here - best bang for your buck to optimize the SC is:
1) Cold air intake of some sort (looks like you have that)
2) A custom tune for your application (email/virtual vs local/dyno)
3) Alcohol/water injection (like Aquamist - if you want to take it there)
Exhaust mods may raise higher RPM peak power but can drop low end grunt/torque.
That's just my summary - I'll let others chime in. I'm still awaiting install for my SC...
Yes, this. Excellent. Succinct.
1) Note to folks comparing to RIPP is that I think RIPP is the only on that comes with a "CAI" type high flow filter out of the gate. Others use the restrictive stock air box. For the record, I measured/logged a 1psi increase by going from the stock air box to the airraid that was on when I was still NA.
2) A custom tune will get you more ignition timing. It will net you some fuel (AFR) adjustments as well but the most HP increase comes from the timing advance. If you do not plan to go WMI then maybe get two tunes. An optimized 91 tune plus a 93 tune or what ever you have readily available. A quality octane booster such as Lucas, Torco or one of the others with MMTs will bump your octane 2-3 points. I bought couple of cases from amazon and ran them through the jeep. I was able to get even more ignition timing out of my tune than I was getting with the WMI! Reason is that the higher octane is always being sprayed through the main injectors and the WMI only kicks in under some load/rpm when it is triggered.
3) Yeah baby!!
Make sure you have a tuning device that allows you to watch both KNK RTRD LT and KNK RTRD ST so you can keep an eye on that evil and destructive force known as detonation.
The other tidbit is that I recommend rigging up a wide band o2 sensor (maybe between uggestionss 1&2 above). You can get a custom tune without the wbo2 but they only look at the knock retard and tweak your timing. I don't think they can really do much with the AFRs.
Regarding the pulley size on a maggy - I think when you upgrade the maggy to the max pully size that just brings up to where the Edelbrock is. The have the same rotor pack inside the housings and likely the same specifications in terms of their upper RPM limits.