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post #1 of 22 Old 08-20-2015, 05:28 AM Thread Starter
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My Rig

hey guys!

So I have been driving and abusing my build for about 3 months now and figured hey I mine as well post it up incase it can help someone else build theirs!

Bought the JKU new in 2012 it is a Sahara model first was 2" spacers and 35's then 3.5" and 37's and then 5" and 38's and now 6" and 42's roughly it always changes haha

been building jeeps and wheeling for years so it wasn't my first rodeo, I appreciate all the big dogs selling complete bolt in axles and lifts and everything for those who don't have the means to do it themselves but I take pride in doing all my own work so I built almost everything on my junk.

Specs:
42x15x20 TSL SX2 tires
20x10 Trail read HD double beadlocks 8x170mm 4.5" backspace world series rock rings
AGR extreme duty steering box ported (I WILL NEVER DEAL WITH THEM AGAIN) enough said there
PSC 1.75"x8" assist ram
12" ORI stx up front with resi's
14" ORI stx out back with resi's
Tom woods 1350 shafts
2008 Ford HP60 front 5.38's locked built and trussed by me from junk yard, weaver fab high steer arm, warn hubs
2003 AAM 14 bolt back with tmr customs shave kit and full truss 5.38's locked
3 link long arm front and back links are all 2" and 1.75" DOM tube 1/4" wall
All brackets mounts gussets everything designed in cad laser cut and built by me
Corbeau ultra Baja seats with 5 point harness
custom cage by me
all cosmetic stuff bumpers rocker skins skid plates everything I designed and built everything was done at home in a 2 car garage with basic hand tools... oh and it starts on a basic home computer with solid works just e-mail my designs to local business with laser table and they cut my parts

Jeep works awesome I love it I spent about $4000 cad to build both axles complete from junk yard that includes buying them too, that is replacing every bearing seal bolt you name it there new axles and if you compare that to buying a pro rock 44 for 6400$ cad I think I played the game right and had fun doing it myself

I have put 5000km on it since the build that is about 3500km of highway doing 70mph and 1500km of wheeling and suspension tuning. I am OCD with details and ride characteristics I have been messing with the oris a lot to get them where I want them it is a tough battle because of the weight of the JK adding the resis did help a lot but it still is not like riding on a cloud of titties

anyways.... we all love pics so here are a few pics of my junk!


















2012 JKU, shaved 14/SD60hp locked/spooled, 4 link Front 3 link rear, ORis all around, D3 all over, 42" SX2 tires, 20" Trail ready HD double beadlocks, PSC Full hydro
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post #2 of 22 Old 08-20-2015, 06:19 AM
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f*ckin' nice job! OCD pays off sometime, right?
I am going to do the same within next few years and just cannot tell if I am saving for a build-out like this or just buying CRD60s or Mopar60s yet.....
but, back to yours, great work. I am envious.......


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post #3 of 22 Old 08-20-2015, 07:46 AM
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Very nice and clean setup! Looking good...

-Jason


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post #4 of 22 Old 08-20-2015, 08:01 AM
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Very nice


How did you convert the rear axle to 8x170 bolt pattern?


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post #5 of 22 Old 08-20-2015, 08:18 AM Thread Starter
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Very nice


How did you convert the rear axle to 8x170 bolt pattern?
1.5" spacer adapters off ebay because the rear is narrower then the front axle in stock form anyways and now they are equal works like a charm

I also repined my pcm to remove the rear sensors and run everything off the front axle so I can run a spool or Detroit or anything in the back with no issues of limp mode and you cant even tell since its all hidden works good so far

2012 JKU, shaved 14/SD60hp locked/spooled, 4 link Front 3 link rear, ORis all around, D3 all over, 42" SX2 tires, 20" Trail ready HD double beadlocks, PSC Full hydro
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post #6 of 22 Old 08-20-2015, 08:21 AM
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Nice build. Did you by chance run the struts without resi's at all? I have 16" STX's all around and I'm debating on adding resi's. Rides nice, but a little bumpy. I hear it is a big difference, but not sure if it is in a good way.
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post #7 of 22 Old 08-20-2015, 08:42 AM Thread Starter
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Nice build. Did you by chance run the struts without resi's at all? I have 16" STX's all around and I'm debating on adding resi's. Rides nice, but a little bumpy. I hear it is a big difference, but not sure if it is in a good way.
I did yup I haven't installed the back resi yet jeep rides like complete ass on the road even still with the resi up front I am still tuning every damn day with them because I am ocd haha

offroad its amazing eats up the bumps I even catch air but need more compression valving to do it comfortably haha

I am running like 110psi lower chamber and 375psi upper I have no body roll on the road unless full throttle turning a corner from a dead stop but being 3 link front and rear that has a lot to do with suspension geometry and design so im not worried about that

I have tried higher pressures I am slowly lowering them bit by bit until I can get road manners where I need them to be happy with the investment if I can not they will be up for sale and I will get coilovers and triple bypass hands down

I know the longer the ori the better the ride because you have more air volume and me running 12" up front is really hurting me most guys say anything under an 18" stx strut on a full body rig will ride like shit... by adding the resi is similar to jumping up a size of strut I think

I haven't given up I will get the back resi on and do some more tuning of nitro pressures then screw with the comp valving over the next little while and post back to hopefully help you in your process

2012 JKU, shaved 14/SD60hp locked/spooled, 4 link Front 3 link rear, ORis all around, D3 all over, 42" SX2 tires, 20" Trail ready HD double beadlocks, PSC Full hydro
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post #8 of 22 Old 08-20-2015, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Canadian-Jku View Post
I did yup I haven't installed the back resi yet jeep rides like complete ass on the road even still with the resi up front I am still tuning every damn day with them because I am ocd haha

offroad its amazing eats up the bumps I even catch air but need more compression valving to do it comfortably haha

I am running like 110psi lower chamber and 375psi upper I have no body roll on the road unless full throttle turning a corner from a dead stop but being 3 link front and rear that has a lot to do with suspension geometry and design so im not worried about that

I have tried higher pressures I am slowly lowering them bit by bit until I can get road manners where I need them to be happy with the investment if I can not they will be up for sale and I will get coilovers and triple bypass hands down

I know the longer the ori the better the ride because you have more air volume and me running 12" up front is really hurting me most guys say anything under an 18" stx strut on a full body rig will ride like shit... by adding the resi is similar to jumping up a size of strut I think

I haven't given up I will get the back resi on and do some more tuning of nitro pressures then screw with the comp valving over the next little while and post back to hopefully help you in your process

Thanks. I've nearly gone through a tank of nitrogen already. I'm running 120 in the front lower and 115 in the rear lower. That was the point at which I really liked the handling. Uppers are around 350 front and 280 rear.

If I hit a huge pothole, I feel nothing - that part is insane. But the ride is a little bumpy (which is partly due to running my tire pressure too high and forgetting to lower it back down). I'm on a 108" wheelbase with really long arms, 3 link front and double triangulated rear. Sort of hard to know what is geometry and what is strut related. Overall, I love them and swear there is magic in those tubes. I'm 85% to feeling they are perfect. I just want to get to the 100% mark. My 2-door is pretty light, which probably also helps. I know on a 4-door many will say it requires two struts per corner. The less chrome showing at ride height will also make the ride a lot worse. You end up in the last of three dampening stages. Not a great place to be.

I mounted my towers really high so that I could run more chrome showing (dang near went through the hood in the front). I'll mess with the dampening and see what that does. After that, I'll try the Resi's.

Are the resi's a pain to install?
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post #9 of 22 Old 08-20-2015, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks. I've nearly gone through a tank of nitrogen already. I'm running 120 in the front lower and 115 in the rear lower. That was the point at which I really liked the handling. Uppers are around 350 front and 280 rear.

If I hit a huge pothole, I feel nothing - that part is insane. But the ride is a little bumpy (which is partly due to running my tire pressure too high and forgetting to lower it back down). I'm on a 108" wheelbase with really long arms, 3 link front and double triangulated rear. Sort of hard to know what is geometry and what is strut related. Overall, I love them and swear there is magic in those tubes. I'm 85% to feeling they are perfect. I just want to get to the 100% mark. My 2-door is pretty light, which probably also helps. I know on a 4-door many will say it requires two struts per corner. The less chrome showing at ride height will also make the ride a lot worse. You end up in the last of three dampening stages. Not a great place to be.

I mounted my towers really high so that I could run more chrome showing (dang near went through the hood in the front). I'll mess with the dampening and see what that does. After that, I'll try the Resi's.

Are the resi's a pain to install?


HAHA! im in the exact same boat dude, on the street little bumps like cracks in the road or small holes piss me off like no other because its jarring but give me a set of train track or a big hole or dip and I don't even know its there... that's the part that bugs me but I know it doesn't help that im on 42" bias ply SX2 tires and double beadlock rims there heavy as hell and not round and not balanced so they make for a lets say interesting ride on the highway haha

I am only showing 4" of chrome at ride height sometimes I go to 5"
Front lowers 110psi
rear lower 130psi

Front upper like 380psi
Rear upper like 350psi

that is with the front resi installed as well they take about 5 minutes to mount and charge you must have a small nitro tank mine is about 3.5' tall and 10" around or so comes with 2500psi in it I have charged my struts probably 20 times from empty so far and I am always rebuilding and tuning coilover setups of other rigs here at the shop and I have used like 600psi out of it haha should last me a year and 200 fills or more I bet!

they are retarded offroad I can leave all my buddies in the dust and I don't even feel the bumps they eat it up and ask for more! its just the small shit on the road that really gets me.. also my 42s are running 16psi on the road and 5-6 offroad so I now there not to stiff

I am starting to wonder about dropping the lower pressures to something like 80psi-90psi and then running anti rocks to help with body roll because if I drop the lowers I should be able to drop the upper pressure as well.. along with the resi's

and then with the soft pressure I want to step up in outter chamber oil weight I think I read its 10w ill go 15w and drop a little out so it gets on the oil later but gets on it good to avoid blowing through the stroke

or sell them and get longer ones to get more shaft showing and mount them higher up or sell them and get coilovers haha to many options!!!

2012 JKU, shaved 14/SD60hp locked/spooled, 4 link Front 3 link rear, ORis all around, D3 all over, 42" SX2 tires, 20" Trail ready HD double beadlocks, PSC Full hydro
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post #10 of 22 Old 08-20-2015, 11:33 AM
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HAHA! im in the exact same boat dude, on the street little bumps like cracks in the road or small holes piss me off like no other because its jarring but give me a set of train track or a big hole or dip and I don't even know its there... that's the part that bugs me but I know it doesn't help that im on 42" bias ply SX2 tires and double beadlock rims there heavy as hell and not round and not balanced so they make for a lets say interesting ride on the highway haha

I am only showing 4" of chrome at ride height sometimes I go to 5"
Front lowers 110psi
rear lower 130psi

Front upper like 380psi
Rear upper like 350psi

that is with the front resi installed as well they take about 5 minutes to mount and charge you must have a small nitro tank mine is about 3.5' tall and 10" around or so comes with 2500psi in it I have charged my struts probably 20 times from empty so far and I am always rebuilding and tuning coilover setups of other rigs here at the shop and I have used like 600psi out of it haha should last me a year and 200 fills or more I bet!

they are retarded offroad I can leave all my buddies in the dust and I don't even feel the bumps they eat it up and ask for more! its just the small shit on the road that really gets me.. also my 42s are running 16psi on the road and 5-6 offroad so I now there not to stiff

I am starting to wonder about dropping the lower pressures to something like 80psi-90psi and then running anti rocks to help with body roll because if I drop the lowers I should be able to drop the upper pressure as well.. along with the resi's

and then with the soft pressure I want to step up in outter chamber oil weight I think I read its 10w ill go 15w and drop a little out so it gets on the oil later but gets on it good to avoid blowing through the stroke

or sell them and get longer ones to get more shaft showing and mount them higher up or sell them and get coilovers haha to many options!!!
Have you tried removing some oil from the upper chamber? That is usually recommended when running less chrome, but not sure how that works with the resi. I know moving your tower is not an option, but can you use a lower axle side mount so you can run more chrome? I cut mine down an inch before welding them on.

I was just talking to a buddy who has been running them for years (he also lives up the road from ORI and is friends with the owner - guy knows a ton about tuning them). He told me to increase the rebound damping a couple clicks from the middle and not to use Resi's as it would make my problem worse. I'll give it a try.

Actually, I have a pretty large nitrogen tank, haha. Last Saturday alone, I probably emptied and filled all 4 upper and lower chambers about 15 times. I'm pretty OCD, I will sit there for hours trying different pressures, test drive and start over. Doing that for a couple months uses up the nitrogen.
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post #11 of 22 Old 08-20-2015, 12:10 PM Thread Starter
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Have you tried removing some oil from the upper chamber? That is usually recommended when running less chrome, but not sure how that works with the resi. I know moving your tower is not an option, but can you use a lower axle side mount so you can run more chrome? I cut mine down an inch before welding them on.

I was just talking to a buddy who has been running them for years (he also lives up the road from ORI and is friends with the owner - guy knows a ton about tuning them). He told me to increase the rebound damping a couple clicks from the middle and not to use Resi's as it would make my problem worse. I'll give it a try.

Actually, I have a pretty large nitrogen tank, haha. Last Saturday alone, I probably emptied and filled all 4 upper and lower chambers about 15 times. I'm pretty OCD, I will sit there for hours trying different pressures, test drive and start over. Doing that for a couple months uses up the nitrogen.

Intersting information you posted this time! I can deff move my mounts and I just might but that will loose down travel at the same time... its a toss up haha

do your ori actually click? I have worked on 12 oris now all different and not one of them actually "click" the 7 positions on the rebound screw which is a joke I think I can see a few not working right but all 12? all ordered within the last year so all the newest design.. the screw just turn from fully in to fully out no clicks haha

the way it was explained to me by oris tuner Kirk jenson I think his name is might have spelt it wrong... was the STX strut is velocity sensitive, so it does not matter how much chrome is showing you are only riding on the nitro until the shaft moves in with enough velocity to compress the little spring and close the valve then it gets on the oil.

guys complain about harsh ride because of nitro pressure being high on heavy rigs high pressure low volume in a 10-14" strut the bigger the strut the more volume... so on the smaller struts guys add a resi to simulate a larger one (more volume) this allows more room to "ramp up" the so called spring rate so you get a plusher feel...

I could be wrong on everything im not an expert haha and I love to learn so if you know better please inform me!

the way I see it when on the road the oil really isn't being used you don't hit a big enough bump to get on the oil very often its all about nitro volume and pressure

I cant see how adjusting the rebound would do anything for street driving at all that in my opinion comes into play when hitting large offroad bumps at higher speeds when your dropping out multiple inches of chrome over and over

What I do for tuning and maybe its incorrect but I treat it like a carburetor haha you have a pilot circuit mid and wide open..


I take a zip tie and put it just firm enough around the chrome right against the upper body, at right height...

go for a drive down the road on the bumpiest road around you get you and measure the distance the zip tie went down, most I have seen was like 1.5" hitting train tracks which I bet got on the oil! this would be the pilot circuit

to me that is all about nitro pressure then slide it back to the top and go for a rip on a trail and see how far it goes after you have decent road manners.. maybe the guy is blowing through his stroke the zip tie would be sitting in the last 5/8" then which would mean up the oil weight or block some ports on compression this would be the mid circuit and then you have bump which is wide open haha

there is just so much to talk about when it comes to tuning!! at times my head hurts haha and like you mentioned ealier how do you tell how much is dictated by link setup and how much is ori or coilover tuning haha

2012 JKU, shaved 14/SD60hp locked/spooled, 4 link Front 3 link rear, ORis all around, D3 all over, 42" SX2 tires, 20" Trail ready HD double beadlocks, PSC Full hydro
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post #12 of 22 Old 08-20-2015, 03:10 PM
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Intersting information you posted this time! I can deff move my mounts and I just might but that will loose down travel at the same time... its a toss up haha

do your ori actually click? I have worked on 12 oris now all different and not one of them actually "click" the 7 positions on the rebound screw which is a joke I think I can see a few not working right but all 12? all ordered within the last year so all the newest design.. the screw just turn from fully in to fully out no clicks haha

the way it was explained to me by oris tuner Kirk jenson I think his name is might have spelt it wrong... was the STX strut is velocity sensitive, so it does not matter how much chrome is showing you are only riding on the nitro until the shaft moves in with enough velocity to compress the little spring and close the valve then it gets on the oil.

guys complain about harsh ride because of nitro pressure being high on heavy rigs high pressure low volume in a 10-14" strut the bigger the strut the more volume... so on the smaller struts guys add a resi to simulate a larger one (more volume) this allows more room to "ramp up" the so called spring rate so you get a plusher feel...

I could be wrong on everything im not an expert haha and I love to learn so if you know better please inform me!

the way I see it when on the road the oil really isn't being used you don't hit a big enough bump to get on the oil very often its all about nitro volume and pressure

I cant see how adjusting the rebound would do anything for street driving at all that in my opinion comes into play when hitting large offroad bumps at higher speeds when your dropping out multiple inches of chrome over and over

What I do for tuning and maybe its incorrect but I treat it like a carburetor haha you have a pilot circuit mid and wide open..


I take a zip tie and put it just firm enough around the chrome right against the upper body, at right height...

go for a drive down the road on the bumpiest road around you get you and measure the distance the zip tie went down, most I have seen was like 1.5" hitting train tracks which I bet got on the oil! this would be the pilot circuit

to me that is all about nitro pressure then slide it back to the top and go for a rip on a trail and see how far it goes after you have decent road manners.. maybe the guy is blowing through his stroke the zip tie would be sitting in the last 5/8" then which would mean up the oil weight or block some ports on compression this would be the mid circuit and then you have bump which is wide open haha

there is just so much to talk about when it comes to tuning!! at times my head hurts haha and like you mentioned ealier how do you tell how much is dictated by link setup and how much is ori or coilover tuning haha
My understanding of removing oil is that it provides more room for the nitrogen and therefore, less pressure and more movement. Don't quote me on that, but I read it in the ORI tuning thread on Pirate.

You can easily fit 14s up front. In fact, you can easily fit 16s if you don't mind moving a few things around (you can see my build thread regarding how I dealt with it). Yeah, you have to add two days of fab work for relocating stuff, but not a huge deal. 16s in the rear sucks if you have a 2-door, which you don't. Just have to cut some nice size holes in the body so the towers can fit.

You could also mount the axle side bracket on the side of the tube rather than the top (not sure if that is how you have it). I'd be a little hesitant if you do any high speed stuff since the ORI's create significantly more stress on the connecting points do to the internal bumps, etc. Just make them super beefy.

You can sell the struts in a day on Pirate as well, if you decide to try a different size. They are still on some ridiculous back order and there is still price control, so no price competition.

Oh, and as for the rebound screw, it does not click. That was brought up in the big Pirate thread. Part of the issue is that 95% of Struts are on trail only rigs. We're in uncharted waters! hahaha
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post #13 of 22 Old 08-21-2015, 04:58 AM Thread Starter
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My understanding of removing oil is that it provides more room for the nitrogen and therefore, less pressure and more movement. Don't quote me on that, but I read it in the ORI tuning thread on Pirate.

You can easily fit 14s up front. In fact, you can easily fit 16s if you don't mind moving a few things around (you can see my build thread regarding how I dealt with it). Yeah, you have to add two days of fab work for relocating stuff, but not a huge deal. 16s in the rear sucks if you have a 2-door, which you don't. Just have to cut some nice size holes in the body so the towers can fit.

You could also mount the axle side bracket on the side of the tube rather than the top (not sure if that is how you have it). I'd be a little hesitant if you do any high speed stuff since the ORI's create significantly more stress on the connecting points do to the internal bumps, etc. Just make them super beefy.

You can sell the struts in a day on Pirate as well, if you decide to try a different size. They are still on some ridiculous back order and there is still price control, so no price competition.

Oh, and as for the rebound screw, it does not click. That was brought up in the big Pirate thread. Part of the issue is that 95% of Struts are on trail only rigs. We're in uncharted waters! hahaha
You are right about the oil height thing for sure but I was under the impression that only works for the ST struts because they were position sensitive not velocity sensitive like the stx so its a little different animal other concern with dropping oil is when you hit hard and there is less oil you can blow through the stroke unless you up the weight and block a few comp holes but then the step up ratio would be significant and upset the jeep im sure as well which is not ideal...

I deffinatly could do bigger towers and run 16's or 18's im already through the fenders up in the back of the jeep but honestly if I am going to go to the effort of making all those changes I would just go on coilovers I just really don't think oris are meant to go fast they have their place for light crawlers but they just are not designed for high speed heavy full body rigs I don't feel... I will probably install the back resi tune until its good enough drive the jeep for some more and then decide what I want to do I started designing a ultra 4 buggy and feel a buggy is just the way to go over the jeep scene lighter stonger and more simple so well see where I end up in the next year or so

2012 JKU, shaved 14/SD60hp locked/spooled, 4 link Front 3 link rear, ORis all around, D3 all over, 42" SX2 tires, 20" Trail ready HD double beadlocks, PSC Full hydro
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post #14 of 22 Old 09-24-2015, 08:41 PM
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Any pics of cage and seats? How do you like them so far?
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post #15 of 22 Old 09-24-2015, 09:04 PM
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What do you mean by "repinned your PCM?"

Are you auto or manual?

I ask because I have issues with my speed sensors not being very reliable, and if I could take 2 of them out of the equation it may help a lot.

Billet 2013 2 door
Dana 60 front, 14 Bolt rear, ARB's, 5.38's, 40" sticky Trepadors, 3 link front and rear, 14" Sway-a-Way coilovers, Tom Woods 1310 front, Adams 1350 rear, PSC Hydro assist
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post #16 of 22 Old 09-24-2015, 09:44 PM
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What do you mean by "repinned your PCM?"

Are you auto or manual?

I ask because I have issues with my speed sensors not being very reliable, and if I could take 2 of them out of the equation it may help a lot.
Also interested in this.
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post #17 of 22 Old 09-25-2015, 05:14 AM Thread Starter
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re-pinned just means I found there all 4 go into the TIPM and I tied the backs to the fronts at the TIPM to keep it clean so it its random wired all over the frame tieing things together

Ill post some more pics as well for everyone

2012 JKU, shaved 14/SD60hp locked/spooled, 4 link Front 3 link rear, ORis all around, D3 all over, 42" SX2 tires, 20" Trail ready HD double beadlocks, PSC Full hydro
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post #18 of 22 Old 09-25-2015, 05:20 AM Thread Starter
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post #19 of 22 Old 09-25-2015, 05:28 AM Thread Starter
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The seats are hard to comment about really haha

on the street there a pain in the ass to get in and out of well on the trail too because the jeep is so big you gotta climb up over the sides to get into them but once your in they are amazing I try and just stay in them once I get on the trail because its so much work haha

I would post a lot more pics its just way to much work on this forum compared to others and I am lazy

2012 JKU, shaved 14/SD60hp locked/spooled, 4 link Front 3 link rear, ORis all around, D3 all over, 42" SX2 tires, 20" Trail ready HD double beadlocks, PSC Full hydro
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post #20 of 22 Old 09-26-2015, 12:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Canadian-Jku View Post
The seats are hard to comment about really haha

on the street there a pain in the ass to get in and out of well on the trail too because the jeep is so big you gotta climb up over the sides to get into them but once your in they are amazing I try and just stay in them once I get on the trail because its so much work haha

I would post a lot more pics its just way to much work on this forum compared to others and I am lazy
Sweet thanks for the thoughts! Need more info on that re pin though! If I can ditch those that would be awesome.
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post #21 of 22 Old 04-15-2016, 11:48 AM
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I love this rig!


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align="center">JESUS ROCKS
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post #22 of 22 Old 04-15-2016, 12:13 PM
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Awesome build....Im about to do the same thing-ish......Couple questions.

More pics of the front 3 link setup?

More pics and info on what you used for steering links/arms/bars?

Whose strut/shock towers did you use?

I want to use the ORI struts but need info on arm bracket placement.

Last edited by billyjk7; 04-15-2016 at 12:18 PM.
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