Have you tried removing some oil from the upper chamber? That is usually recommended when running less chrome, but not sure how that works with the resi. I know moving your tower is not an option, but can you use a lower axle side mount so you can run more chrome? I cut mine down an inch before welding them on.
I was just talking to a buddy who has been running them for years (he also lives up the road from ORI and is friends with the owner - guy knows a ton about tuning them). He told me to increase the rebound damping a couple clicks from the middle and not to use Resi's as it would make my problem worse. I'll give it a try.
Actually, I have a pretty large nitrogen tank, haha. Last Saturday alone, I probably emptied and filled all 4 upper and lower chambers about 15 times. I'm pretty OCD, I will sit there for hours trying different pressures, test drive and start over. Doing that for a couple months uses up the nitrogen.
Intersting information you posted this time! I can deff move my mounts and I just might but that will loose down travel at the same time... its a toss up haha
do your ori actually click? I have worked on 12 oris now all different and not one of them actually "click" the 7 positions on the rebound screw which is a joke I think I can see a few not working right but all 12? all ordered within the last year so all the newest design.. the screw just turn from fully in to fully out no clicks haha
the way it was explained to me by oris tuner Kirk jenson I think his name is might have spelt it wrong... was the STX strut is velocity sensitive, so it does not matter how much chrome is showing you are only riding on the nitro until the shaft moves in with enough velocity to compress the little spring and close the valve then it gets on the oil.
guys complain about harsh ride because of nitro pressure being high on heavy rigs high pressure low volume in a 10-14" strut the bigger the strut the more volume... so on the smaller struts guys add a resi to simulate a larger one (more volume) this allows more room to "ramp up" the so called spring rate so you get a plusher feel...
I could be wrong on everything im not an expert haha and I love to learn so if you know better please inform me!
the way I see it when on the road the oil really isn't being used you don't hit a big enough bump to get on the oil very often its all about nitro volume and pressure
I cant see how adjusting the rebound would do anything for street driving at all that in my opinion comes into play when hitting large offroad bumps at higher speeds when your dropping out multiple inches of chrome over and over
What I do for tuning and maybe its incorrect but I treat it like a carburetor haha you have a pilot circuit mid and wide open..
I take a zip tie and put it just firm enough around the chrome right against the upper body, at right height...
go for a drive down the road on the bumpiest road around you get you and measure the distance the zip tie went down, most I have seen was like 1.5" hitting train tracks which I bet got on the oil! this would be the pilot circuit
to me that is all about nitro pressure then slide it back to the top and go for a rip on a trail and see how far it goes after you have decent road manners.. maybe the guy is blowing through his stroke the zip tie would be sitting in the last 5/8" then which would mean up the oil weight or block some ports on compression this would be the mid circuit and then you have bump which is wide open haha
there is just so much to talk about when it comes to tuning!! at times my head hurts haha and like you mentioned ealier how do you tell how much is dictated by link setup and how much is ori or coilover tuning haha