I started this thread on our local forum but I thought I would post it up here too.
Thanks to Stan for his build. It helped me out a lot.
I want to shout out to Ryan @ Ridgeline Off Road. He helped me get my parts list together, and when I did screw up, he got it handled fast for me. His prices were also AWESOME!!!
Next up would be the guys at RPM Extreme. Jon and J.P. were both very helpful and offered insight-O-plenty on my build. I also got some parts form them with speedy service and fair prices.
Here's a list that should cover most of what I used.
Front - 2005 Ford F250 Dana 60 (If you go with an earlier version make sure it's a D60, some of the 04 and earlier models came with D50 axles)
Rear - 2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 AAM 10.5" 14 bolt cover (Get the 2500 gas burner axle, the axle that comes in the HD diesel 2500 is the 11.5" version. It probably won't fit)
Front - ARB pn# ARBRD167 (This is the 35 spline version for 4.10 and down gear ratios)
Rear - ARB pn# ARBRD114 (This is for 4.10 and down gear ratios)
Front - G2 pn# G/22-2034-513RX (This is a thick, reverse cut, gear set for the 4.10 and down carrier)
Rear - G2 pn# G/22-2023-513X (This is a thick gear set for the 4.10 down carrier)
Gear install kits:
Front - G2 pn# G/235-2034
Rear - G2 pn# G/235-2023A
ARB pn# ARBCKMA12 (For the lockers air supply)
Front Truss - http://www.artecindustries.com/JK_SD_60_1T_Swap
Rear Truss - http://www.artecindustries.com/JK_14_Bolt_1T_Swap
Rear ABS kit - http://www.artecindustries.com/JK-1-...it-_p_532.html
(60 tooth. For a factory disc AAM 10.5" 14 bolt axle. Drum brake axles have a different kit)
Dana 60 hub conversion:
This replaced the unit bearings with hubs and standard hub bearings. The kit comes with the spindles, hubs, bearings, seals, lug studs, chromo 35 spline outer shafts, and Mile Marker locking hubs.
The 60 tooth tone rings are machined into the hub and the spindle has a provision machined into it to accept a Dodge truck wheel speed sensor (DORMAN pn# 970-052)
that actually plugs right into the JK wiring harness. I asked to have mine drilled out to 8 X 6.5 to match my Chevy rear hubs. Spyntec did that for free. Did I mention no more unit bearings?
These axles have huge brakes from the factory so I sourced the proper replacement parts from a local parts place. Nothing special here. Just get the parts you need and use the axle donor vehicle information to ensure you get the right parts. I was able to use the extended brake lines that came with my MC lift kit with minor modification.
Front: Rock Krawler Bomb Proof TB
Rear: Rusty's adjustable TB (Thanks Johnny!)
These are obviously adjustable. You'll need it.
I went with these because I didn't want a fabricated front cover due to tie rod clearance issues. I figured these would have a slimmer profile.
I used 1.50" DOM tubing for the drag link and tie rod. I got the rod ends, tube adapters, jam nuts, and misalignment spacers from Blue Torch Fabs.
Tie rod needs 7/8 X 7/8 rod ends. (7/8 bolt)
Drag link can use 3/4 X 7/8 rod ends. (3/4 bolt)
Using the above rod ends allows all your tube adapters and jam nuts to be 7/8".
The tie rod had to be bent on the ends a little to clear the diff cover.
GM 1 TON TREs WILL NOT WORK WITH THE 05+ KNUCKLES
Custom from Adam's with new flanges for the transfer case.
If you plan on doing this yourself you'll need a way to handle the axles. I used an engine lift.
An axle stand will save your back help hold the thing in place while working on it.
I had some cheap moving dollies to put the axles on when they weren't on the stand. Moving them around was easy this way. THEY ARE HEAVY!
I pre and post heated the cast while welding to it. A weed burner worked perfectly for this. Also insulate the axle to slow down the cooling process. I wrapped mine in a welding blanket and an old sleeping bag. It seemed to work fine. Use high nickel content rods. I couldn't find the high nickel MIG wire.
You'll also need a press and some larger brass punches for bearings and such.
You'll need high quality 3/4 and 7/8 drill bits when working on the steering.
A spindle nut socket for the rear is a necessity. Plan ahead. The only place I could find it in stock was Westwood Auto Parts in Bessemer on HWY 150.
A good 220V welder, and someone that knows how to use it, is handy.
All kinds of sockets, wrenches and drive tools of course.
All of this being said I want to talk about my experience with this build for a sec. It was a lot of work and I can honestly say that without the help of several people I probably would have never been able to complete it. The whole thing seems straight forward on paper but it was one issue after another. I still have several things to sort out about axle placement and whatnot, but it drives good right now. I'm just happy to have it back on the road for now.
I spent almost the same amount of money on these axles as the new Ultimate Dana 60's from Spicer. You could save some money by not doing the Spyntec hub conversion and the HISTEER arm but on junkyard axles the unit bearings and hubs will probably need to be replaced anyway. The price is to close to ignore. I'll talk money with anyone that is considering an axle upgrade.
God bless posi-trac rear ends and footprint gas pedals!!!
Dirty pics coming soon