2005+ Super duty axle swap tie rod and drag link recomendations - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 08-15-2015, 03:07 AM Thread Starter
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2005+ Super duty axle swap tie rod and drag link recomendations

Got all the parts to build up my 1 tons (Zip locker, 538 gears, bearings seals etc) and shipped off my passenger side knuckle to weaver fabrication to get fitted with a high steer arm. Now I need to figure out something for a drag link and tie rod. I am thinking Chevy 1ton TRE, but that means I need to drill out and ream the pit man arm, steering arm and both knuckles at the tire rod connection (Using tie rod in the stock location). I think one knuckle has a larger hole then the other, so hopefully its still able to be drilled out or I can find some sort of insert for it.

Do you guys know what size ream and TRE I need? Recommend a kit to go with? Should I go with heims joints instead?

Thanks for your help!
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post #2 of 10 Old 08-15-2015, 05:26 AM
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Got all the parts to build up my 1 tons (Zip locker, 538 gears, bearings seals etc) and shipped off my passenger side knuckle to weaver fabrication to get fitted with a high steer arm. Now I need to figure out something for a drag link and tie rod. I am thinking Chevy 1ton TRE, but that means I need to drill out and ream the pit man arm, steering arm and both knuckles at the tire rod connection (Using tie rod in the stock location). I think one knuckle has a larger hole then the other, so hopefully its still able to be drilled out or I can find some sort of insert for it.

Do you guys know what size ream and TRE I need? Recommend a kit to go with? Should I go with heims joints instead?

Thanks for your help!
The passenger knuckle is pretty much already a 7/8" hole. I bought the GM 1 ton steering kit from Ruffstuff and couldn't get it to work without a lot of headache so I ended up going with 7/8X7/8 heim rod ends on the tie rod and 3/4x7/8 (3/4 bolt hole) rod ends for the drag link. The mounting point for the drivers side knuckle is about 1.5" thick. The stud on the GM offset TREs is also about 1.5" long. There was no room for the nut. Rod ends were just easier for me.

Drivers side knuckle TR mounting location.
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post #3 of 10 Old 08-17-2015, 02:55 AM Thread Starter
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What do you think about this solutions?

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...rt_p_1706.html

Drill a 1" hole and weld in these tapered GM TRE inserts? Now this could work ok for the tie rod, but could i use these for the drag link and pitman arm?
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post #4 of 10 Old 08-17-2015, 05:42 AM
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I used 7/8" hiems with 3/4" grade 8 fine thread bolts for tie rod bar and drag link all with 1.5" DOM 1/4" wall tubing I trust it was more than any tie rod end and when going one tons why not go all out

2012 JKU, shaved 14/SD60hp locked/spooled, 4 link Front 3 link rear, ORis all around, D3 all over, 42" SX2 tires, 20" Trail ready HD double beadlocks, PSC Full hydro
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post #5 of 10 Old 08-17-2015, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
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What do you think about this solutions?

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...rt_p_1706.html

Drill a 1" hole and weld in these tapered GM TRE inserts? Now this could work ok for the tie rod, but could i use these for the drag link and pitman arm?
That's still not going to work for the tie rod because the knuckle mounting point is to thick. You could drill a 1" hole and the stud on the TRE will still be too short. You'll need to either machine or grind the knuckle close to the thickness of that insert. I wouldn't try to grind it. The passenger side is almost as thick as the drivers side.
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post #6 of 10 Old 09-01-2015, 07:37 PM Thread Starter
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That's still not going to work for the tie rod because the knuckle mounting point is to thick. You could drill a 1" hole and the stud on the TRE will still be too short. You'll need to either machine or grind the knuckle close to the thickness of that insert. I wouldn't try to grind it. The passenger side is almost as thick as the drivers side.
your right. I exhausted all options and ended up getting two of the 3/4" inserts for the passenger side ( Need one for top and one for bottom since its double tapered) and then drilling the drivers side out 3/4" and running heim points with a bolt. I did find some tie rod ends that would work but they where like $400 +. So ended up with rough stuff heims.
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post #7 of 10 Old 09-02-2015, 08:41 AM
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your right. I exhausted all options and ended up getting two of the 3/4" inserts for the passenger side ( Need one for top and one for bottom since its double tapered) and then drilling the drivers side out 3/4" and running heim points with a bolt. I did find some tie rod ends that would work but they where like $400 +. So ended up with rough stuff heims.
As an FYI, the guy at Weaver had conical spacers made for the knuckles so you can run heims, etc. I'd go that route before the others.
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post #8 of 10 Old 09-02-2015, 09:35 AM Thread Starter
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As an FYI, the guy at Weaver had conical spacers made for the knuckles so you can run heims, etc. I'd go that route before the others.
Thats exactly what I did :-) He did an amazing job converting my knuckle to high steer also.
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post #9 of 10 Old 09-02-2015, 09:53 AM
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Thats exactly what I did :-) He did an amazing job converting my knuckle to high steer also.
Also, check out WFO concepts. They reamed my pitman arm for $15. Use the Chevy DRAG link ends, not the TREs. Not sure what you did with the high steer arm, but there are several options there for use with the drag link end. WFO will also bend up a custom drag link and weld in the bungs. I think it was like $150 shipped for me. I tried a straight drag link, but no chance.

Here, this should help. I wrote up a post on everything for the 2005+ axle, right down to o-rings and part numbers. https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=268018
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post #10 of 10 Old 09-02-2015, 11:46 PM Thread Starter
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Also, check out WFO concepts. They reamed my pitman arm for $15. Use the Chevy DRAG link ends, not the TREs. Not sure what you did with the high steer arm, but there are several options there for use with the drag link end. WFO will also bend up a custom drag link and weld in the bungs. I think it was like $150 shipped for me. I tried a straight drag link, but no chance.

Here, this should help. I wrote up a post on everything for the 2005+ axle, right down to o-rings and part numbers. https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=268018
I have bolth the heim joints (With the high misalignment spacers) and the high angle drag link TRE from ruff stuff specialties. I dont see any other option than using heims for the tie rod but for the drag link what do you guys think I should use? I have the reamer already so I could ream out the pitmain and high steer arm for the chevy high angle TRE, but I could easily just drill a 3/4 hole for the heims also.

thanks for that thread on the 05 super duty axles. Lots of good info on there!
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