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post #1 of 13 Old 08-14-2015, 07:23 AM Thread Starter
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Drag Link Issue...



In the picture above I'm having an issue with my drag link. The rod end at the pitman arm is binding as I hit full droop on the passenger side. I'm using an older style synergy drag link that keeps the factory rod end...



I came across this issue in an article online building a Tahoe. They found a rod end which had a slight angle to it. Anyone know if there such a rod end that uses the factory JK threads?



I also saw same article online they had a custom pitman arm made that had the hole for the rod end drilled offset at 10 degrees to accommodate more droop...



Synergy says their latest model drag link which uses their newest rod ends at both sides of the link allow more misalignment than stock but the link is over $200 and I'm not sure it'll allow the droop I've got now, let alone I'm about to install new shocks that droop another 1.5" over what I'm getting now.

Looking for other answers before I drop the $$ to try something that isn't guaranteed to work.

Is there an angle drilled pitman arm for the JK, or replacement rod end that is angled which has factory threads?

Any other suggestions?
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post #2 of 13 Old 08-14-2015, 07:58 AM
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I am runnig the rare parts draglink and it has tons of misalignment. I have 40 and get 48" under my tire poss more (limited) and no binding.


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post #3 of 13 Old 08-14-2015, 08:14 AM
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1. Put a slight bend in the drag link.

2. Switch to heim joints.

3. Check and see if EMF has an option (their website is down, but they make high angle drag link ends and are the best you can buy and rebuildable).

WFO concepts can make you a completely new drag link with high angle GM ends for around $150 and bent any way you want it. You'd just have to ream for the larger taper. Then sell the one you have. Probably a net zero.
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post #4 of 13 Old 08-14-2015, 08:57 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input!

Invest, I'm liking the idea of bending the link a bit, I think even a small 10 degree bend at the pitman end would do it. I like it cause it's free and uses what I have, lol. I wonder how much weaker it'll make the draglink probably not enough to matter it already came with a bend in it more severe than the one I have in mind.

Robb, thank you for the input and pic. I'm not sure the rare parts will give me what I need. Most likely it will but it looks like I'm already close to what you are at with droop now. I did my best to level both rigs to the white line, I know the angles aren't exactly the same but gives some idea...

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post #5 of 13 Old 08-14-2015, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biginboca View Post
Thanks for the input!

Invest, I'm liking the idea of bending the link a bit, I think even a small 10 degree bend at the pitman end would do it. I like it cause it's free and uses what I have, lol. I wonder how much weaker it'll make the draglink probably not enough to matter it already came with a bend in it more severe than the one I have in mind.

Robb, thank you for the input and pic. I'm not sure the rare parts will give me what I need. Most likely it will but it looks like I'm already close to what you are at with droop now. I did my best to level both rigs to the white line, I know the angles aren't exactly the same but gives some idea...


Isn't it solid chromoly? I'd think it would be plenty strong. I'd have it done on a real tube bender though. And don't use heat if you decide to tackle it yourself.
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post #6 of 13 Old 08-14-2015, 09:55 AM Thread Starter
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I'm not sure if it's hollow or solid, but it already has this bend in it from synergy which is about twice as severe as what I think I need.




A little bend at the pitman end would probably fix my issue perfectly. I'm going to head over to a local welding/fab shop Monday afternoon I'm pretty sure they have a bender I think that might be just the ticket!
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post #7 of 13 Old 08-15-2015, 07:40 AM
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At full droop I can tak my draglink off the pass knuckle and allow it to swith down another 6-7". Call glen at rareparts if modifying you old one doesnt work out. He can give you tge specs on the misalignment I want to say its 30degrees plus

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post #8 of 13 Old 08-18-2015, 10:40 AM Thread Starter
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So here's the final remedy. Took draglink to local fab shop and they put a slight bend in it just past where the pitman TRE threads into it. It's perfect!



I can get more than enough droop now and have 4.25" clearance between the drag link and frame, which is slightly more than I have between my synergy raised trackbar in their high steer bracket. So all good, thanks again for all the input it feels good to have this fixed for only $20. (I bought the guy lunch at the fab shop cause he wouldn't take payment for bending it, lol)
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post #9 of 13 Old 08-18-2015, 10:55 AM
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Wow, did not Think it was possible to bend that DL.

2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers
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post #10 of 13 Old 08-18-2015, 11:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biginboca View Post
So here's the final remedy. Took draglink to local fab shop and they put a slight bend in it just past where the pitman TRE threads into it. It's perfect!



I can get more than enough droop now and have 4.25" clearance between the drag link and frame, which is slightly more than I have between my synergy raised trackbar in their high steer bracket. So all good, thanks again for all the input it feels good to have this fixed for only $20. (I bought the guy lunch at the fab shop cause he wouldn't take payment for bending it, lol)
The reason why you were not getting much misalignment is because your knuckle side drag link end is sitting way too deep. You are using washers to keep the rod end tight which means your rod end is tapered properly and your boot is ripped. That tells me your rod end is sitting way too deep which will allow for less misalignment. This was probably a result of an improperly drilled hole on the knuckle or you are using the wrong adapter. I have the same draglink as you and have no misalignment problems what so ever. I would of fixed the problem by either getting a new knuckle or using a different adapter instead of bending your drag link but thats just me
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post #11 of 13 Old 08-18-2015, 11:43 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrazyLarry View Post
The reason why you were not getting much misalignment is because your knuckle side drag link end is sitting way too deep. You are using washers to keep the rod end tight which means your rod end is tapered properly and your boot is ripped. That tells me your rod end is sitting way too deep which will allow for less misalignment. This was probably a result of an improperly drilled hole on the knuckle or you are using the wrong adapter. I have the same draglink as you and have no misalignment problems what so ever. I would of fixed the problem by either getting a new knuckle or using a different adapter instead of bending your drag link but thats just me
Larry,

You have a good eye which is to be commended! Those issues you describe are separate issues I have already been through with synergy. They actually already sent me a replacement insert and boot for that end. They recently warrantied out my knuckle rod end and sent a new style rod end that didn't fit well with the old style adapter. To their credit when I mentioned it they sent the new parts on their own dime and I'm waiting on their arrival.

If you look at the first picture in this thread you can see even at full droop the alignment on the knuckle side isn't really affected. Almost all he drag link misalignment needs to come from the pitman side. Look at the first pic and you can see the axle and drag link are almost parallel which means the knuckle joint doesn't contribute much to the flex needed.
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post #12 of 13 Old 08-18-2015, 11:59 AM
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Drag Link Issue...

Man .. Nice catch ^^^
He's 100% correct, Thats not good.

Edit: did not read your reply.
But why is the pic with the bad joint taking with the newly bent DL?

2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers
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post #13 of 13 Old 08-18-2015, 12:11 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Man .. Nice catch ^^^
He's 100% correct, Thats not good.

Edit: did not read your reply.
But why is the pic with the bad joint taking with the newly bent DL?
I just had the link bent this morning and installed about 1 hour ago. The parts from synergy haven't arrived yet I'll swap them on when they get here in the next few days...
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