What do you guys want to see in a set of sliders? - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 73 Old 07-28-2015, 12:36 PM Thread Starter
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What do you guys want to see in a set of sliders?

We are kicking around the idea of coming out with another set of sliders. What would you guys like to see in a set as far as mounting, looks, functionality? We get asked a lot about being able to use them as a step, that will be something we address in the new set. Other than that what say you JKO?

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post #2 of 73 Old 07-28-2015, 12:38 PM
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I want a set of really tough bolt ons. Not interested in weld on ones at this time. Something that tucks up high and tight.
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post #3 of 73 Old 07-28-2015, 12:39 PM
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I've always liked the look of the PJ sliders. it'll be different enough from the sliders you already sell.
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post #4 of 73 Old 07-28-2015, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jadmt View Post
I want a set of really tough bolt ons. Not interested in weld on ones at this time. Something that tucks up high and tight.
We offer a high and tight bolt-on set already. Just encase you didn't know, we offer them weld or bolt ---> http://www.vksfab.com/product/rock-sliders/

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutchboy101 View Post
I've always liked the look of the PJ sliders. it'll be different enough from the sliders you already sell.
The issue that we run into with those is that they're a body mounted slider. That's something we'd like to keep away from. I've seen too many rigs with destroyed sheet metal. They work fine for guys that don't abuse them, but when put through the paces they can fail. We'd hate to put out a product and not be able to stand behind it's strength.

Appreciate the idea! Keep'em coming.

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post #5 of 73 Old 07-28-2015, 01:23 PM
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You should stick with the prerunner theme. Take a look at the LoD sliders. Frame mounted, uses some tube, and has a step. I could see a prerunner version looking sick.
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post #6 of 73 Old 07-28-2015, 01:31 PM
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A few points to make my case...
- The ACE sliders are a simple-stupid, frame-mounted design that function well as steps - hard to find a flaw there.
- Someone else makes a reversible, frame-mounted slider, tucked high or configured as a step.
- No one makes a reversible, simple-stupid, frame-mounted design for a 2dr that could likely be flipped in the time it takes to air up or down.

I wanted the convenience of a step slider more than I needed the clearance of a high, tucked slider. I chose ACE sliders and relegate the idea of slightly less clearance considerations as a compromise to daily driving concerns. If all it took was a socket/ratchet, removin' four bolts, flipping the sliders upside down and to the other side then reinstalling the four bolts to convert street use to trail use, I'd be all over it - price contingent.
Like I said, in the time it takes to air up or down.

Other points...
- Cut out all that welded plate bracketing for the exposed components...just cut, bend and weld some tubes. Save the fancy engineering for the mounting interface.
- Around $300, finished.

Last edited by funfred; 07-28-2015 at 01:34 PM.
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post #7 of 73 Old 07-28-2015, 01:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funfred View Post
A few points to make my case...
- The ACE sliders are a simple-stupid, frame-mounted design that function well as steps - hard to find a flaw there.
- Someone else makes a reversible, frame-mounted slider, tucked high or configured as a step.
- No one makes a reversible, simple-stupid, frame-mounted design for a 2dr that could likely be flipped in the time it takes to air up or down.

I wanted the convenience of a step slider more than I needed the clearance of a high, tucked slider. I chose ACE sliders and relegate the idea of slightly less clearance considerations as a compromise to daily driving concerns. If all it took was a socket/ratchet, removin' four bolts, flipping the sliders upside down and to the other side then reinstalling the four bolts to convert street use to trail use, I'd be all over it - price contingent.
Like I said, in the time it takes to air up or down.

Other points...
- Cut out all that welded plate bracketing for the exposed components...just cut, bend and weld some tubes. Save the fancy engineering for the mounting interface.
- Around $300, finished.
The ACE sliders are weld on in the frame mount version. Most people don't want weld on. The bolt on version are mounted to the body mounts, creating one of the weakest sliders in terms of protection. I don't know of a slider on the market that has allowed more body damage than the ACE. Does make a nice step though I guess.

You definitely don't need the fabrication talent of VKS to make a "stupid simple" slider. Why would someone pay $300 for something they could make for $50 in about 2 hours?
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post #8 of 73 Old 07-28-2015, 02:25 PM
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sinple light weight weld ons. and depending on where the rail ties in, an option to incorporate cage tie in would be nice. the evo rails are nice but they look really heavy and where the front ties in is where the poly performance cage would tie in. maybe something that doesnt stick out as much with what mentioned

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post #9 of 73 Old 07-28-2015, 02:42 PM
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I dunno, I think I would like to see an alternative to the steps/sliders I got from Rockslide engineering with a power step for us crippled people

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post #10 of 73 Old 07-28-2015, 02:56 PM Thread Starter
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What do you guys want to see in a set of sliders?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Invest2m4 View Post
You should stick with the prerunner theme. Take a look at the LoD sliders. Frame mounted, uses some tube, and has a step. I could see a prerunner version looking sick.


I have a rendering of a set of prerunner sliders that I'll post up.



Quote:
Originally Posted by funfred View Post
A few points to make my case...

- The ACE sliders are a simple-stupid, frame-mounted design that function well as steps - hard to find a flaw there.

- Someone else makes a reversible, frame-mounted slider, tucked high or configured as a step.

- No one makes a reversible, simple-stupid, frame-mounted design for a 2dr that could likely be flipped in the time it takes to air up or down.



I wanted the convenience of a step slider more than I needed the clearance of a high, tucked slider. I chose ACE sliders and relegate the idea of slightly less clearance considerations as a compromise to daily driving concerns. If all it took was a socket/ratchet, removin' four bolts, flipping the sliders upside down and to the other side then reinstalling the four bolts to convert street use to trail use, I'd be all over it - price contingent.

Like I said, in the time it takes to air up or down.



Other points...

- Cut out all that welded plate bracketing for the exposed components...just cut, bend and weld some tubes. Save the fancy engineering for the mounting interface.

- Around $300, finished.


We'll definitely keep it in mind.



Quote:
Originally Posted by chknkatsu View Post
sinple light weight weld ons. and depending on where the rail ties in, an option to incorporate cage tie in would be nice. the evo rails are nice but they look really heavy and where the front ties in is where the poly performance cage would tie in. maybe something that doesnt stick out as much with what mentioned


Our original weld-on's come in at 90lbs. a pair. For a bulletproof set I believe that's fairly light compared to others out there. We also offer our weld-on's as a builders kit so the end-user can configure the feet where ever they'd like. We have considered simplifying our weld-on's to a simple tube design to cut some weight and cost.



Quote:
Originally Posted by bluewave View Post
I dunno, I think I would like to see an alternative to the steps/sliders I got from Rockslide engineering with a power step for us crippled people


I have kicked around the idea, but with the added parts the cost will be fairly high. We'll definitely keep it in mind.

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Last edited by JK Vick; 07-28-2015 at 03:21 PM.
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post #11 of 73 Old 07-28-2015, 11:50 PM
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+1 on Prerunner theme. How about boat sides?

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post #12 of 73 Old 07-29-2015, 05:26 AM
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True boad side. Like, remove the primary rocker body panel and trim the front and rear quarter where they meet the rocker, fasten to the body sub frame, etc. rather than just bolt to the body via nutcerts.

I had mine off this weekend (PSC Brawlers) and the body is all smashed in and deformed, slider bent, etc so I was looking if it was possible to do a true boatside. Looks like with some trimming it might work.

-Mike
2007 2dr X, 6sp, 35's on D44's, 2" lift, cage, hydro, etc.
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post #13 of 73 Old 07-29-2015, 10:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Invest2m4 View Post
The ACE sliders are weld on in the frame mount version. Most people don't want weld on. The bolt on version are mounted to the body mounts, creating one of the weakest sliders in terms of protection. I don't know of a slider on the market that has allowed more body damage than the ACE. Does make a nice step though I guess.

You definitely don't need the fabrication talent of VKS to make a "stupid simple" slider. Why would someone pay $300 for something they could make for $50 in about 2 hours?
Ya know, I looked online for reports of damage as a result of using the ACE sliders and couldn't find anything. How about you cite some claims?
And what about a body mounting point isn't frame mounted? Mounting something strong enough to support the weight of the Jeep(ACE) on a mount designed to support the body weight of the Jeep, I'd say that was an integral frame member. Just look at that bracket...it's not going anywhere.
As far as $50 is concerned, you tellin' me you can turn out an ACE slider for $50? You should go into business, you'll make a killer profit.
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post #14 of 73 Old 07-29-2015, 10:59 AM
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FWIW, I've seen two different occations where ACE sliders have deflected into and damaged the body. Those were the bolt on ones.

I've also seen an EVO weld on bend and hit the pinch seam, no biggy.

They're still better than nothing.

-Mike
2007 2dr X, 6sp, 35's on D44's, 2" lift, cage, hydro, etc.
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post #15 of 73 Old 07-29-2015, 03:17 PM
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are these the ones that are 90lbs for the pair? they are nice. I'd sacrifice the side coverage for less weight if you guys are making different ones

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post #16 of 73 Old 07-29-2015, 03:36 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAUMAhead View Post
+1 on Prerunner theme. How about boat sides?
Quote:
Originally Posted by JKred07 View Post
True boad side. Like, remove the primary rocker body panel and trim the front and rear quarter where they meet the rocker, fasten to the body sub frame, etc. rather than just bolt to the body via nutcerts.

I had mine off this weekend (PSC Brawlers) and the body is all smashed in and deformed, slider bent, etc so I was looking if it was possible to do a true boatside. Looks like with some trimming it might work.
We've done a set of true boatsides on a local JK. The issue with them is they're difficult to do in "kit" form. It's more of a one-off deal. That, and you need to be fully commited to cutting up/out all the sheetmetal and a lot of welding.

We're trying to stick with a frame mounted option, based purely on strength. We've come across way too many body mounted options that have failed and lead to serious body damage. Sounds like you're a victim of that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chknkatsu View Post


are these the ones that are 90lbs for the pair? they are nice. I'd sacrifice the side coverage for less weight if you guys are making different ones
Correct, those are 90lbs a pair. We may do a simple full tube slider that acts as a pretty good step to cut some weight and add some VKS touches. We feel that if you're adding weight to your JK, the sliders is the one place that is acceptable.

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post #17 of 73 Old 07-29-2015, 03:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKred07 View Post
FWIW, I've seen two different occations where ACE sliders have deflected into and damaged the body. Those were the bolt on ones.
Would you say it was a result of the "box" they use to mount through to the body mount? That thing does look suspect to flexing. An engineered approach could solve that...the box likely isn't as strong as it could/should be.
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post #18 of 73 Old 07-29-2015, 04:00 PM
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Most JKs are daily drivers and weekend warriors, that means I want rock rails for an entry step WITH side impact protection, ie dual parallel tubes that stick out and aid as a crumble area in a T-bone collision --- my JK came out drivable and smiling with cosmetic damage in two collisions thanks to steel side rails (and they weren't the highest quality rails).

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post #19 of 73 Old 07-29-2015, 06:23 PM
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im sure whatever you guys make will be awesome. my preference in products is a little different than most people. I dont daily drive mine or need a step. just light weight protection to prevent existing damage








are you planning to keep your current design and make a second? or stop making the existing one?

PS: Rubicon rails were installed after i unbent, prepped, primed and painted the damage

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post #20 of 73 Old 07-29-2015, 06:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chknkatsu View Post
...



...

PS: Rubicon rails were installed after i unbent, prepped, primed and painted the damage
pardon me for what likely is obvious to ya,but I might'a gone w/ slappin' the Rubicon rails onbeforeinstead of after......


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post #21 of 73 Old 07-29-2015, 11:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JK Vick View Post
We've done a set of true boatsides on a local JK. The issue with them is they're difficult to do in "kit" form. It's more of a one-off deal. That, and you need to be fully commited to cutting up/out all the sheetmetal and a lot of welding.
Got any pictures?

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post #22 of 73 Old 07-30-2015, 04:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j3ff3ry_j33p View Post
pardon me for what likely is obvious to ya,but I might'a gone w/ slappin' the Rubicon rails onbeforeinstead of after......

yes i know lol.

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post #23 of 73 Old 07-30-2015, 09:44 AM
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I'd like to see a set of rails covered in rollerblading wheels. No friction for going over tha obstacles


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post #24 of 73 Old 07-30-2015, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JK Vick View Post
We've done a set of true boatsides on a local JK. The issue with them is they're difficult to do in "kit" form. It's more of a one-off deal. That, and you need to be fully commited to cutting up/out all the sheetmetal and a lot of welding.
Agreed, the R&D cost is probably quite a bit, and there aren't that many people who would want to cut up a perfectly good jeep.

Was just looking at my selfish wants, since I like the clearance of boatside and hate the strength issues of the current bolt on options


But they said "Built for Hammers"!

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2007 2dr X, 6sp, 35's on D44's, 2" lift, cage, hydro, etc.
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post #25 of 73 Old 07-30-2015, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chknkatsu View Post
im sure whatever you guys make will be awesome. my preference in products is a little different than most people. I dont daily drive mine or need a step. just light weight protection to prevent existing damage








are you planning to keep your current design and make a second? or stop making the existing one?

PS: Rubicon rails were installed after i unbent, prepped, primed and painted the damage
We're not sure yet. Our original set is our best seller, so we'll most likely be keeping that design.

Quote:
Originally Posted by j3ff3ry_j33p View Post
pardon me for what likely is obvious to ya,but I might'a gone w/ slappin' the Rubicon rails onbeforeinstead of after......
True that

Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAUMAhead View Post
Got any pictures?
Yeah, I'll try to dig some up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tiltz View Post
I'd like to see a set of rails covered in rollerblading wheels. No friction for going over tha obstacles
Now thats thinking outside the box

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