2-Year Plan (current specs in sig): RK 3.5 x-factor stage 2, 35's with spacers on factory wheels. Regear to 4.88, install sleeves/truss on front axle and reinforce inner c's, RCV front axleshafts and upgraded rear axleshafts. To make labor costs economical, I will be doing all at once (plus rear bumper/tire carrier) which on my budget means ~2 years out.

In the meantime, my relevant plans are finishing the RH skid system with the tfer case/gas tank/evap/muffler skids, winch, and installing a dual battery system.

Immediately, I need new shocks. I am thinking Rubi takeoffs are the way to go just to save money. However, the rig already sags with ~100lbs of gear and the engine skid, so given the additional weight coming before the lift I wonder if they are up to the task.

My questions are: Are Rubi takeoffs the best option right now given future plans, and are there different shock configurations for Unlimited/High GVW/etc. as there are for factory springs? Also, given the weight considerations, should I consider stiffer/taller takeoff springs to restore factory height? Any particular suggestions?

Ultimately I am trying to maintain factory height/geometry/alignment and keep bouncing to a minimum, as cheap as possible, without giving up too much performance to the added weight until the lift in installed.

I have drawn out plans to but needed a small upgrade now to run a little larger tires and my suspensions was shot..poly gave me a great price on 2in front springs and 1 in rear, then I picked up some rs9000's cheap (I think I went through river city offroad) so I could dial it in...I'm extremely happy with this setup and have modified my longer term plans to just build off this vs pull and sell as I had intended.

C4T, What JK do you have? 2 door, 4 door, Sport, Rubi, Sahara?

What fearfact suggested is a great idea. You can get everything from Marcus at River City Offroad or Alec at Krawl Offroad. They are both top notch guys.

In his sig. 2012 Rubicon 2dr

Kevin

FIFY

LOL Thanks. When sigs are full of rig stuff I don't even notice them.

C4T, you might be able to use take off springs and shocks to get'er done. Crawl under your Jeep, find the tags on you springs(all 4) and let us know what the last two numbers on the long part number are.

Rear springs: 68004257AA
Front Springs: 52126314AC

Passenger front shock: OE17226 / 05168186AC
Passenger rear shock: (could only read) 188AC
Driver rear shock: OE17227 / 05168188AC
Driver front shock: (label missing)

I have been considering the RS9k's actually. I am not opposed to an aftermarket solution, I just don't want to end up halfway into a lift before all said and done. My understanding is, even something that levels the front with the rear is going to require an alignment and possibly screw up the caster.

Then I see takeoff sets of springs and shocks going for $100, and I would just need to know what part#'s to look for, given the weight additions. Perhaps some JKUR/option-loaded springs and shocks? I am already dropping $11k in two years, but I do wheel this rig hard in the meantime...

EDIT: Having just replaced the tires with factory-specs at 45k miles, I am not looking for bigger tires until I do the lift/regear/axle strengthening. Given the sprung and unsprung weight I have added and will continue to add, it's already likely the shop will have to straighten my tubes. Bigger tires IMO could lead to an outright trail failure, and I wheel as a lone wolf so that is a Very Bad Thing. If I am wrong please set me right...the rig is mostly used for rock crawling and garaged otherwise.

You should read more before making any serious decisions.

Alignment, no. On On jk, the front wheels are tied together by the tie rod. Unlike on a TJ, this tierod is independent of the drag link. So no matter how high you lift it, those two front tires will be toed in the same as stock. To straighten the steering wheel, it's a simple turnbuckle adjustment on the drag link.

Castor, sorta. if you do something like level it, it will probably fall within factory parameters. It'll be on the highs though. You may experience a slightly more flighty steering wheel, but you'll get used to that until you get adjustable control arms.

That was another question I was saving for the install. So I can replace all springs and shocks without an alignment?

springs and shocks you'll be fine without an alignment. I've never had an "alignment' done on my jeep, honestly idk what they would even do if you took it ot a firestone or something. You can do it all yourself, which is basically toe only until you have adjustable control arms.

I'd hold out and get something cheap/free on clist, in denver you can get it frequently.

Your list is doing everything right, but honestly you don't need to do it all at once. I'm in denver on 35s with 4.10s and the 3.8....it isn't ideal but I won't regear until I go 37s, it isn't terrible enough to spend $1k or more. I'd start slowly tackling your list - I'm on factory shafts and driveshafts and it does go out nearly every weekend. You just have to know how to drive it. I've done everything else, albeit slowly.

To be candid, I have been trying to think of a way to split up the improvements but it always devolves into a JEEP cycle. Even with stock 4.10's, I am afraid bigger tires/more traction can lead to trail failure with all my added weight, so I want the axle improvements simultaneously (and labor costs are much lower when I combine the lift/regear/reinforcements while it's all taken apart.)

After some more research, it sounds like I need some 19/60 springs to account for all the skidplates/dual batteries/winch. Are there particular takeoff shocks I should be looking for, or are the Rubi's all the same rate and travel?

Stock 4.10s are actually thicker teeth, since there are fewer of them. I usually wheel solo so I know what you mean - mine is built up now besides shafts/driveshafts, but I'm not too worried about breaking them and If I do I know what to do to get home.

I would guess 4 door rubi take-offs are the ones you want, but if you search I think you can find an actual part # from them. Rubi shocks should all be the same travel.

With that in mind I am partial to 19/60 takeoff springs and RS9K shocks to hold me over for a couple of years until the RK lift/etc. I think this combo will give me a small lift until I finish the skids and add the winch/second battery/rear bumper. Will I get away without correcting the caster in the meantime?

EDIT: Also, might I need extended swaybar links or brake lines until the rig is fully outfitted?