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post #1 of 18 Old 07-22-2015, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
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Pro rock 44 unlimited install

So I cracked my sleeved factory 44. I am replacing it with a pro rock 44 unlimited with the 10* seperation. And I'm wondering what that means when I go to align it. I currently have rock krawler mid arms, lowers only.
I am at 5.5" lift on 37s.
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post #2 of 18 Old 07-22-2015, 11:10 PM
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I cracked my OEM D44 sleeved tube earlier this year as well and did the same upgrade.

The degrees of castor correction means you're going to have to adjust your arms to set up for castor and pinion angle. Once done, your caster should be in-line with factory specs. I had to make big adjustments to get it where it should be after the swap.

Did you get the raised track bar mount option? It was not an available option when I ordered mine, so I did the poly performance bracket and had it welded on. And since the new track bar bracket on the axle was more passenger side, I had to have Clayton make me a longer track bar.

Overall I'm happy with mine. My only regret is not getting the regular D44 carrier and an air locker and selling myE-Locker.
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post #3 of 18 Old 07-23-2015, 10:30 AM
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Caster angle and pinion angle are zero sum. When you increase one, you decrease the other. The axle C (inner knuckle - the part people gusset all the time) tilts back like the fork of a bicycle. That is your caster. Imagine riding a bike with a fork that points straight down. Steering would be terrible and the ride would suck. Same with a Jeep. No caster and your steering would be erratic and every bump would hurt.

Given that the C is welded on, as you tilt the axle back to increase the caster, the pinion of the axle begins to point further down. So, increase caster 1* (i.e. lean the axle back 1*), and you lower the pinion 1*.

It is a tough balance on a lifted JK. With more lift, you want to increase the pinion angle so there is less driveshaft angle. However, lifting also reduces the caster (as a result of the upper arms being shorter, it rotates the axle forward). So, most people increase caster and decrease pinion. Overall, the geometry is much less than ideal.

Now, what does the 10* prorock housing mean? As noted, the caster relative to the pinion is static. They are separated by 6* on a stock housing. That means that if caster is 3*, then pinion is 3*. Now, follow the math. If I increase caster to 4, then the pinion goes to 2 (again, increasing caster means the axle is rotated back and the pinion decreases in angle). 5* of caster means 1* pinion. And so on.

The prorock comes in 8* and 10*. So, with your 10* housing, if you have caster at 5*, pinion will be 5*. 6* of caster and pinion is 4*.

As far as your setup, I'd definitely go higher than stock in terms of caster. Why not improve the ride and handling a bit? 5* seems to work really well. Might even try a little more. Just make sure your pinion isn't rotated so much that it has more angle than the driveshaft.
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post #4 of 18 Old 07-23-2015, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigd74 View Post
So I cracked my sleeved factory 44.
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Originally Posted by TJT View Post
I cracked my OEM D44 sleeved tube earlier this year as well
where did the housing crack and do you have any pics?

thanks

Last edited by White13JKUR; 07-23-2015 at 01:17 PM.
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post #5 of 18 Old 07-23-2015, 09:28 PM
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EVO Gussets and Magnum 44 Sleeves got me by for 5 years and 60k miles.
It was a few days before Thanksgiving '14 and I had driven home 30 miles on the highway doing 75 most of the way. I heard a pop pulling into the driveway, but thought nothing of it as I parked in the garage. Went inside to change for the gym and came out 5 minutes later and found a small puddle under the jeep. After seeing this crack that was damn near all the way around the tube I was thankful the sleeves kept things together. Probably saved me and others from injury.

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post #6 of 18 Old 07-23-2015, 10:37 PM Thread Starter
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Mine cracked in the same place.
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post #7 of 18 Old 07-25-2015, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by TJT View Post
EVO Gussets and Magnum 44 Sleeves got me by for 5 years and 60k miles.
It was a few days before Thanksgiving '14 and I had driven home 30 miles on the highway doing 75 most of the way. I heard a pop pulling into the driveway, but thought nothing of it as I parked in the garage. Went inside to change for the gym and came out 5 minutes later and found a small puddle under the jeep. After seeing this crack that was damn near all the way around the tube I was thankful the sleeves kept things together. Probably saved me and others from injury.
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Mine cracked in the same place.
did it crack at the weld for the sleeve? I have gussets but no sleeves.
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post #8 of 18 Old 07-25-2015, 09:32 PM
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wow I cant believe how many of these JK 44s crack, I would have thought Jeep would have done a recall already. I'm about to truss mine, but if the ones with sleeves crack, that I'm not sure how long the trussed axle will last.

Bigd74 from what I understand is that caster will be at 10*. You having a 5.5" lift will cause your pinion to be tilted down and not an ideal driveshaft angle, so now you will be able to tilt your pinion up to get a proper driveshaft angle which will change your caster and should get you back to 6* or close too it for proper suspension geometry.
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post #9 of 18 Old 07-26-2015, 12:08 AM
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Originally Posted by White13JKUR View Post
did it crack at the weld for the sleeve? I have gussets but no sleeves.
Yup, thats right. I really can't complain, it was bound to fail at sometime. It's pretty common around here for bent c's, broken or spinning tubes and so on. Manufactures are catching on and stronger axles are getting affordable.
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post #10 of 18 Old 07-26-2015, 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by raf2379 View Post
wow I cant believe how many of these JK 44s crack, I would have thought Jeep would have done a recall already. I'm about to truss mine, but if the ones with sleeves crack, that I'm not sure how long the trussed axle will last.

Bigd74 from what I understand is that caster will be at 10*. You having a 5.5" lift will cause your pinion to be tilted down and not an ideal driveshaft angle, so now you will be able to tilt your pinion up to get a proper driveshaft angle which will change your caster and should get you back to 6* or close too it for proper suspension geometry.
As much as people bash those who say a truss won't help, the thin tubing on the stock D44 in the JK Rubi is why it won't completely work. The small diameter tubing combined with the thin .250 wall tube thickness is just not enough, even with sleeves or a truss, when you wheel your rig even moderately hard. It may help out for a bit, but in the long run it'll eventually bend or completely fail and break.

It's not really a recall issue because it's not really a safety issue that effects stock/unmodified JKs.

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Last edited by highoctane; 07-26-2015 at 12:20 AM.
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post #11 of 18 Old 07-27-2015, 05:36 PM Thread Starter
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Mine wasn't at a weld.
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post #12 of 18 Old 07-27-2015, 05:56 PM
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geezus, this makes me feel greaaat...

may I ask just what you were climbing/crawling/what posiiton or line ....just the scenario where this managed to occur; not because I want to rub it in but i wheel and wonder what thew scenario was where this axle housing cracked ....thanks.

<i edited out my drivel and whining about comstantly having to buy better / stronger crap for my jeeps. srry- just spent a bunch of money & this thread made me feel it will never end...>


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Last edited by j3ff3ry_j33p; 07-27-2015 at 08:04 PM.
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post #13 of 18 Old 07-27-2015, 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by j3ff3ry_j33p View Post
geezus, this makes me feel greaaat...

may I ask just what you were climbing/crawling/what posiiton or line ....just the scenario where this managed to occur; not because I want to rub it in but i wheel and wonder what thew scenario was where this axle housing cracked ....thanks.

<i edited out my drivel and whining about comstantly having to buy better / stronger crap for my jeeps. srry- just spent a bunch of money & this thread made me feel it will never end...>
Nothing crazy..

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post #14 of 18 Old 07-28-2015, 05:11 AM
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wow; that was not too crazy , indeed!
unfortunate that your spotter buddy didn't surmise the rear and front tube clearance on that big rock that was obviously gonna contact the rear axle housing driver tube but when it's hot & trails have been dusty and long, the focus can drop off; plus, it wasnt that insane of a climb.....I am gonna be upgrading in next year is why im so interested and you've at least provided me some wife-ammo,lol.
let us know what axle ya snag/install picts!


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post #15 of 18 Old 07-28-2015, 05:16 AM
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Originally Posted by TJT View Post
Yup, thats right. I really can't complain, it was bound to fail at sometime. It's pretty common around here for bent c's, broken or spinning tubes and so on. Manufactures are catching on and stronger axles are getting affordable.
ya know, I have several old school /long-time wheeling buddies that respond by saying that- with the exception of wrecks - they've never seen a bent C or it's much rarer than thought. I have never seen one but gusseted anyway. You guys see many Cs actually bent? (these guys aren't wheelers of JKs , btw...)


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post #16 of 18 Old 07-28-2015, 08:02 AM
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Does that video actually show the moment of the breakage, or is that just a sample of what you were doing the day it broke?
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post #17 of 18 Old 07-28-2015, 08:40 AM Thread Starter
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Mine happened on fsr road.
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post #18 of 18 Old 07-28-2015, 09:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j3ff3ry_j33p View Post
wow; that was not too crazy , indeed!
unfortunate that your spotter buddy didn't surmise the rear and front tube clearance on that big rock that was obviously gonna contact the rear axle housing driver tube but when it's hot & trails have been dusty and long, the focus can drop off; plus, it wasnt that insane of a climb.....I am gonna be upgrading in next year is why im so interested and you've at least provided me some wife-ammo,lol.
let us know what axle ya snag/install picts!
He's just there to ensure I don't fall off the rock. We run this trail too often to not have a natural feel for good or bad lines. Just trying something different to keep it interesting.

After my axle broke I replaced it with the Dynatrac ProRock 44 Unlimited with the 1/2" thick tubes, RCV Shafts and Dynatrac Ball Joints. If I could go back and do it over again, I would have just used OEM shafts and got an ARB Air Locker instead of reusing the rubicon locker again as it limits my options down the road. After all was said and done it cost me about $5500. ($1000 of it being labor, new 5.38 gears and setup kit.)

Quote:
Originally Posted by j3ff3ry_j33p View Post
ya know, I have several old school /long-time wheeling buddies that respond by saying that- with the exception of wrecks - they've never seen a bent C or it's much rarer than thought. I have never seen one but gusseted anyway. You guys see many Cs actually bent? (these guys aren't wheelers of JKs , btw...)
Yup, it's not a myth. Majority of the bent C's or axle tubes with cracked welds at the diff I've seen are people that never even wheel. They drive their Jeeps too fast over speed-bumps or humps.



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Does that video actually show the moment of the breakage, or is that just a sample of what you were doing the day it broke?
No, that video is the typical wheeling I do around here. My axle failed several weeks after any wheeling. At the time the Jeep was my daily driver and I drove it about 80 miles each day during my route. I had just finished my day and drove the 35 miles home which is mostly highway. I pulled into the driveway and heard a pop and a few minutes later saw the breakage in the axle. I can't be certain, but I'm sure a had likely fractured the axle the last time I was out and it held unnoticable until it split further.
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