Ford 9" Axle in the rear of JK - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 18 Old 07-16-2015, 07:13 AM Thread Starter
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Ford 9" Axle in the rear of JK

shopping for parts list and have been accumulating as many questions as I have parts. Hoping the guys here at JKO can help me out.

Putting a Ford 9" in the rear of my JK and going with disk brakes obviously.

1. With those disk brakes and a lifted JK what did you run for the brake lines? or did you have to have some custom made to length with the proper ends for the JK and whatever caliper you run?

2. Which calipers preferred? I know there are many options but what ones do you prefer.

3. I plan to use the Ruffstuff caliper mounting bracket for the axle.


4. Most importantly.....what about retaining the ABS?

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post #2 of 18 Old 07-16-2015, 07:37 AM
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Might try VKS for some tone rings. I believe they are the go to for retaining ABS on super duty axle swaps for JKs
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post #3 of 18 Old 07-16-2015, 07:48 AM
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Most use GM brakes. Fairly light, cheap, etc. As for lines, that is up to you. My guess is that the GM brakes use a different bolt size, so you will need new lines. Just get the correct banjo bolt and fitting and then put an adapter on and run generic AN stuff. A lot cheaper that way.
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post #4 of 18 Old 07-16-2015, 07:49 AM Thread Starter
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Artec makes them also for one tons and such...just not seen anyone do one for the 9.

Wonder if ABS can be disabled via a tuner or something.

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Last edited by j-rod17; 07-16-2015 at 07:56 AM.
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post #5 of 18 Old 07-16-2015, 08:40 AM
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I doubt it could be disabled via tuner for liability reasons. You could aways just unplug the ABS but would have issues come inspection time. Ive been toying with this idea to run a mechanical locker in the back of mine: possibly tie the rear speed sensors into the fronts. I.e. LR tied to LF, RR tied to RF. Do some digging around on here, i believe ive read on 3.8 auto that all you need is one speed sensor to keep the lights off
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post #6 of 18 Old 07-16-2015, 08:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ledzep_06 View Post
i believe ive read on 3.8 auto that all you need is one speed sensor to keep the lights off
Nope. One sensor to get speedo to work but you will have a christmas tree.


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post #7 of 18 Old 07-16-2015, 09:12 AM
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Ah, thats what it was. I knew it was one sensor for something
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post #8 of 18 Old 07-16-2015, 09:25 AM
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Why use a 9"?
they have crazy low pinion. The gears aren't any stronger than the hybrid 44 in a JK, and the shafts are the same.
seems like its a lot easier to put a 35 spline ARB and shafts into a jk 44
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post #9 of 18 Old 07-16-2015, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elusive View Post
Why use a 9"?
they have crazy low pinion. The gears aren't any stronger than the hybrid 44 in a JK, and the shafts are the same.
seems like its a lot easier to put a 35 spline ARB and shafts into a jk 44
I'd have to disagree with you on the strength. Typically a 9" r&p has 0.5 teeth or more in contact at any given time due to the engagement angle and overall size of the pinion head. The pinion head is also supported by a trunion bearing, and as a result the addition housing material needed and the trunion bearing itself cut down on gear deflection.

Yes, the pinion is a little lower, but also shorter since they can run the pinon bearings closer together with the trunion bearing. There are a few companies that make a nice pinon guard.

Just my opinion.

-Mike
2007 2dr X, 6sp, 35's on D44's, 2" lift, cage, hydro, etc.
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post #10 of 18 Old 07-16-2015, 11:39 AM
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I have removed my rear abs sensors and run them off the front I re-pinned the harness in the engine bay so it looks factory you cant tell

ran into problems though because the TCM has a sensor for output rpm off the back drive shaft so if you spin the tires the computer goes into limp mode still so now I am going to get into programming it might be frowned upon for inspection purposes but I don't plan to sell it so don't need a safety

if you don't do burn outs though it works perfect no lights on the dash and in 4 lo it turns it all off anyways so doesn't effect it and all is good

If anyone is looking to do anything like this I can post up your wirering schematics but ill need last 8 of your vin to make sure its accurate don't want to clutter up this thread though so pm me for that stuff

cheers

2012 JKU, shaved 14/SD60hp locked/spooled, 4 link Front 3 link rear, ORis all around, D3 all over, 42" SX2 tires, 20" Trail ready HD double beadlocks, PSC Full hydro
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post #11 of 18 Old 07-16-2015, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elusive View Post
Why use a 9"?
they have crazy low pinion. The gears aren't any stronger than the hybrid 44 in a JK, and the shafts are the same.
seems like its a lot easier to put a 35 spline ARB and shafts into a jk 44
It is a very lightweight option for a full float axle. Agree that the stock JK rear is a solid axle though. Building up a new 9" with a Mega Hi9 is the way to go. Very strong, high pinion, and super light.
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post #12 of 18 Old 07-16-2015, 01:21 PM Thread Starter
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I wont be going Hi anything on the rear. Going for a light, strong, budget build.

My main obstacle is the ABS.

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post #13 of 18 Old 07-17-2015, 08:35 AM Thread Starter
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been searching for 9" with ABS and found a couple:





Both of these are for a vehicle with one rear speed sensor though. the JK has two. Could probably somehow tie the two into one.

Anyone here done something like this?

Or I can get tone rings made and try to fit them on the axle and make a bracket?

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post #14 of 18 Old 07-17-2015, 08:55 AM
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If you are building a 9", I would do a hybrid front with 60 outers, and a full float rear with 14b outers. Both of these will then take the time rings currently on the market.
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post #15 of 18 Old 07-17-2015, 09:58 AM
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I had been looking into this a while back. You might be able to run a trail gear or spidertrax unit bearing cup on the rear, with the currie unit bearing (including tone ring and sensor port) and 35spline double splined shafts, and it would keep it ESP/ABS happy. Not sure how many teeth on the currie unit bearing though.

The bearing cup would give you mounting provisions for disk brakes as well.

-Mike
2007 2dr X, 6sp, 35's on D44's, 2" lift, cage, hydro, etc.
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post #16 of 18 Old 07-17-2015, 10:10 AM Thread Starter
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Start dealing with Spidertrax bearings and such then it no longer becomes a budget friendly build.

I had originally planned a 609 but to make it HP you have to go Hi-9 then you are looking at a $2000 third member. easily at $3,000 before I ever get to the 60 outer parts.

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post #17 of 18 Old 07-17-2015, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j-rod17 View Post
Start dealing with Spidertrax bearings and such then it no longer becomes a budget friendly build.

I had originally planned a 609 but to make it HP you have to go Hi-9 then you are looking at a $2000 third member. easily at $3,000 before I ever get to the 60 outer parts.
This is the unit bearing I'm talking about, not the spidertrax. It's $120 less per side, and you still need a 35 spline drive slug, but there's no creativity needed for ABS.

These are the bearing pockets as well. IMO, easiest way to get a ABS ready FF-er.

-Mike
2007 2dr X, 6sp, 35's on D44's, 2" lift, cage, hydro, etc.
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post #18 of 18 Old 07-20-2015, 05:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKred07 View Post
This is the unit bearing I'm talking about, not the spidertrax. It's $120 less per side, and you still need a 35 spline drive slug, but there's no creativity needed for ABS.

These are the bearing pockets as well. IMO, easiest way to get a ABS ready FF-er.
better, I see where you are going with your ideas.

but I think I may have a solution for the rear ABS.
Tone rings custom.
since the 9" axles need a spacer when doing disk brakes anyways I think I can cut out my backing plate and use it as a spacer which will already have the hole and mount for the ABS sensor.....? The whole idea is a budget garage build...not a high dollar build. Damn JK's cause everything to be expensive. LOL

Anyone know where I can find the specifications for brackets on the axle housing? Stock locations for control arms, track bar, etc? surely there has to be some specs around for front and rear.

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Last edited by j-rod17; 07-20-2015 at 05:51 PM.
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