Radiator - Ron Davis Racing - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 28 Old 06-23-2015, 12:31 PM Thread Starter
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Radiator - Ron Davis Racing

Finally got around to installing a Ron Davis Racing radiator for my Hemi. I believe several others on the forum may have also went this route. Where did you mount an expansion container and what was its shape and size. I could pull off the dual fan set up and go back with a single fan and the AEV overflow container but I would really like to give the dual fan set up a try.
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2011 JK Rubicon - 5.7 VVT, 545 RFE transmission, Areoforce Gauges, Coast 1310 Drive Shafts, ORW Transmission Cooler, Metalcloak control arms & 2.5" Springs, Bilstien 5100, 4.56 Gears, Teraflex Front Big Brakes, C Gussets, GenRight Front & rear bumpers, LOD Rock Rails, 9.5 SR Superwinch, SPOD, Viair compressor, Boom Mat, Backup Camera, Truck-Lite Headlights, Rigid D2
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post #2 of 28 Old 06-23-2015, 04:10 PM
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Finally got around to installing a Ron Davis Racing radiator for my Hemi. I believe several others on the forum may have also went this route. Where did you mount an expansion container and what was its shape and size. I could pull off the dual fan set up and go back with a single fan and the AEV overflow container but I would really like to give the dual fan set up a try.
Attachment 220530

Attachment 220538
Hey Dave,

Let us know how this works out. I want mine to run longer before the fan has to turn on. I think the dual fan set up is going to be better but there isn't much room at all up front. Maybe a longer hose to another location. I wonder too if the fans will plug in and work without a Scan Tool?

2014 JKU, red, 2.5" AEV lift,6.4L VVT, 35" Duratrac's. 4.10, Gen Right bumpers, VR 8000 winch, Pro Rock 44.
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post #3 of 28 Old 06-24-2015, 08:12 AM
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I installed a 2 relay kit in my hemi jk for the stock fan which works great, but I can't find a decent overflow either. I could easily wire the kit to run dual fans without codes. I already hot wired my slow speed circuit and high speed circuit to run off the dual relays. what dual fan set up are you running? my fan motor hits the water pump pulley (2011 water pump) and I'm wondering id the dual fans might actually fit better.
what year intake hose do you have? the 2011 hard plastic plenum obviously doesn't fit...
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post #4 of 28 Old 06-24-2015, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
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I had previously installed a Dakota Digital fan speed controller with two 70 amp relays that will be used to control both of the fans that way the fans can be programed to what ever temperature I chose. It is the only fan speed controller I had any luck with and have been running it for the last two years with no issues. I have decided to install the coolant expansion tank between the master cylinder and the computer. I have ordered several Dorman tanks that I think will work and go from there.

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post #5 of 28 Old 06-24-2015, 08:52 AM Thread Starter
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I installed a 2 relay kit in my hemi jk for the stock fan which works great, but I can't find a decent overflow either. I could easily wire the kit to run dual fans without codes. I already hot wired my slow speed circuit and high speed circuit to run off the dual relays. what dual fan set up are you running? my fan motor hits the water pump pulley (2011 water pump) and I'm wondering id the dual fans might actually fit better.
what year intake hose do you have? the 2011 hard plastic plenum obviously doesn't fit...
My fan motor from the original setup also hit the water pump shaft so I made a new shroud a out of aluminum and installed a two speed Derale 17" fan. I was not over heating but the Hemi was still running hotter than I liked and decided to install a larger radiator for more capacity.

2011 JK Rubicon - 5.7 VVT, 545 RFE transmission, Areoforce Gauges, Coast 1310 Drive Shafts, ORW Transmission Cooler, Metalcloak control arms & 2.5" Springs, Bilstien 5100, 4.56 Gears, Teraflex Front Big Brakes, C Gussets, GenRight Front & rear bumpers, LOD Rock Rails, 9.5 SR Superwinch, SPOD, Viair compressor, Boom Mat, Backup Camera, Truck-Lite Headlights, Rigid D2
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post #6 of 28 Old 06-24-2015, 11:31 AM
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What are the dimensions of the Ron Davis radiator your using. Core size?

Kevin
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post #7 of 28 Old 06-24-2015, 11:46 AM Thread Starter
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What are the dimensions of the Ron Davis radiator your using. Core size?

Kevin
The same size as the AEV radiator except for the core thickness and tank depth is 1/2" more. The AEV core was 1.5" and the new radiator is 2" thick with a 2.5" deep tank. The radiator fits perfectly in the stock mounting supports. So essentially 1/3 more capacity but not necessarily 1/3 more cooling.

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post #8 of 28 Old 06-24-2015, 12:20 PM
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The same size as the AEV radiator except for the core thickness and tank depth is 1/2" more. The AEV core was 1.5" and the new radiator is 2" thick with a 2.5" deep tank. The radiator fits perfectly in the stock mounting supports. So essentially 1/3 more capacity but not necessarily 1/3 more cooling.
I'm interested in seeing how much better this radiator cools compared to the AEV one. Mine cools fine but in Summer it doesn't idle for more than a minute or two without the fan. That's one Hell of a fan when it kicks in at 212 - 215*. Hopefully it will run quite a bit longer before the fan. Texas is a good place to test it.

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post #9 of 28 Old 06-24-2015, 01:03 PM
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Not running a hemi, but have a dual pass / dual spal fan Griffin and use one of their overflow tanks.

http://www.griffinrad.com/page6acc.php?key_id=KM-101

Looks like it should fit in there, would just need to find a mounting point
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post #10 of 28 Old 06-26-2015, 05:05 PM
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What temps were you running before this setup? I am running the griffin with mine here in the hot SW and it hasn't been staying as cool as I would like.

Would like to see the temps after the change as well.

Thanks
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post #11 of 28 Old 06-26-2015, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
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What temps were you running before this setup? I am running the griffin with mine here in the hot SW and it hasn't been staying as cool as I would like.

Would like to see the temps after the change as well.

Thanks
The AEV radiator with the AC on was running to the mid 220's. I just drove the Jeep for the first time today with the new setup and with the AC on running 65 mph on the FM roads which are hilly at 92F outside temp the temperature was cycling up to 205F when both fans kicked in and they pulled it down to 195F where they turned off. I am probable going to play with the temperature settings on the fans a little bit but overall I do not want the engine to run past 210F before it starts to be pulled down by the fans. Running 65 mph without the air conditioner the engine was running from 193 to 195 with and with out a fan. The first fan cut on at 195F. I have a 190F thermostat. Will do more testing this weekend and next week.

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post #12 of 28 Old 06-26-2015, 06:58 PM Thread Starter
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It should be noted that the flashing around the radiator was not installed during this first test so a lot of the air was bypassing around the radiator. I am installing the flashing this evening and it should help with forcing more air through the radiator. Also just something I learned with the other radiator if you put 1/2" to 5/8" spacing between the radiator and the AC cooler it really helps a lot. The manufacturers of the coolers recommend a minimum spacing of 5/8" to 3/4" to get maximum efficiency from the cooler. That can be hard to achieve with the limited space.

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post #13 of 28 Old 06-27-2015, 06:47 AM
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It should be noted that the flashing around the radiator was not installed during this first test so a lot of the air was bypassing around the radiator. I am installing the flashing this evening and it should help with forcing more air through the radiator. Also just something I learned with the other radiator if you put 1/2" to 5/8" spacing between the radiator and the AC cooler it really helps a lot. The manufacturers of the coolers recommend a minimum spacing of 5/8" to 3/4" to get maximum efficiency from the cooler. That can be hard to achieve with the limited space.
Dave,

Thanks for the update. Are the dual fans plug & play or do they have to be flashed for the TIPM to see them. That setup definitely gave a big increase in cooling.

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post #14 of 28 Old 06-27-2015, 07:21 AM Thread Starter
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Dave,

Thanks for the update. Are the dual fans plug & play or do they have to be flashed for the TIPM to see them. That setup definitely gave a big increase in cooling.
I am not running the fans off of the TIPM instead I had installed a Dakota Digital fan controller, temperature sender and two 70 amp relays. The controller is completely programmable for a single, dual or two speed fan setup. It would be nice to run the fans off of the original system but I could not get any of the dealerships to change the fan temp settings which were to high.

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post #15 of 28 Old 06-27-2015, 08:56 PM
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Finally got around to installing a Ron Davis Racing radiator for my Hemi. I believe several others on the forum may have also went this route. Where did you mount an expansion container and what was its shape and size. I could pull off the dual fan set up and go back with a single fan and the AEV overflow container but I would really like to give the dual fan set up a try.
Attachment 220530

Attachment 220538
whoo-wee. That top radiator hose looks like it was fun as a day at the amusement park to get set in place and tightened down! Not much room in there with that hoss of a motor & that radiator looks like it'll take care of your hemi cooling nicely....


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post #16 of 28 Old 06-28-2015, 06:52 AM
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I am not running the fans off of the TIPM instead I had installed a Dakota Digital fan controller, temperature sender and two 70 amp relays. The controller is completely programmable for a single, dual or two speed fan setup. It would be nice to run the fans off of the original system but I could not get any of the dealerships to change the fan temp settings which were to high.
That's good to know. I know the TIPM has to see the fan but have no clue on how to change it. I think your setup will be more reliable and having control over the fans is what I would want. I'll look into that system. I ran mine hard yesterday up the Eisenhower Tunnel it was 70-75* A/C on max and I was going 75 & 80 when I could. This is a hard climb from around 9000 feet to 11000 feet @ 7% grade. The max temp I saw was 221*. I bet you could do that at 210* now with your setup, maybe less.

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post #17 of 28 Old 06-28-2015, 08:07 AM
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Good news on my stock fan setup. For reference I wired the high speed fan to come on when the low speed usually comes on. I hit the bottom of big bear mountain Thursday and it was 94 degrees. Climbed 6000 feet and the temp never moved off 208. It overheated every time with the supercharger and stock radiator. I'm running d range 38" toyos and they are very heavy.
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post #18 of 28 Old 06-28-2015, 09:16 AM Thread Starter
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whoo-wee. That top radiator hose looks like it was fun as a day at the amusement park to get set in place and tightened down! Not much room in there with that hoss of a motor & that radiator looks like it'll take care of your hemi cooling nicely....
Actually the bottom hose is the hardest to get on and you have to slide it in place while installing the radiator. Waiting for it to really get hot such as 100's so I can really put a test on it but so far the temps come right back down into the 190's when the fans come on. I feel that I have finally got the high temp situation finally resolved and should not have to worry going off road when it is really hot.

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post #19 of 28 Old 06-28-2015, 10:17 AM
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Good news on my stock fan setup. For reference I wired the high speed fan to come on when the low speed usually comes on. I hit the bottom of big bear mountain Thursday and it was 94 degrees. Climbed 6000 feet and the temp never moved off 208. It overheated every time with the supercharger and stock radiator. I'm running d range 38" toyos and they are very heavy.
Try and stage the fan from off-low-high. Going from off to high sets up an inductive amp kick that can exceed 70 amps. You'll get away with it for a while but odds are eventually you'll melt the high speed relay, connector or both.

You can have the fan on temps and hysteresis programmed to stage it on properly. We see a lot of melted HS fan relays when the fan resistor fails and you only have HS.

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post #20 of 28 Old 06-29-2015, 03:58 PM
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Try and stage the fan from off-low-high. Going from off to high sets up an inductive amp kick that can exceed 70 amps. You'll get away with it for a while but odds are eventually you'll melt the high speed relay, connector or both.

You can have the fan on temps and hysteresis programmed to stage it on properly. We see a lot of melted HS fan relays when the fan resistor fails and you only have HS.
As usual, great advise.
I actually wired the low speed fan to kick on with the key and high speed to come on when the low speed came on. It does stage, but the low speed only runs for a couple min. I also put a dual relay kit from summit in so the relays share the load. All this was because of exactly what you said.. I had a resistor fail a few years ago and it melted the stock wiring and relay.
no problems so far.
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post #21 of 28 Old 05-12-2017, 04:47 PM
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With the recent string of leaking radiators on LS and Hemi swaps, I wanted to bump this one up to see if those running a Davis have had any issues?
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post #22 of 28 Old 05-14-2017, 05:31 PM
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I put one into the jk a few months back. No issues yet.... hopefully none with the cost of them.
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post #23 of 28 Old 06-14-2017, 09:41 PM
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With the recent string of leaking radiators on LS and Hemi swaps, I wanted to bump this one up to see if those running a Davis have had any issues?
I know it's not the Ron Davis, but I ended up going with the C&R Radiator. They've added an extra reinforcement header plate where the tubes meet the tank with the hopes of it reducing/eliminating the flex the radiators are experiencing. My stock AEV radiator began to leak on the drivers side just after one year. Had a local shop do a repair for $80. It lasted through the next wheeling season before leaking again. So that is when I ponied up for the C&R. You can buy direct, and both Jegs and Summit usually have them in stock. They are $1100 compared to the $1600 for the Ron Davis. It is a direct fit and I didn't have to mess with a fan controller. The shop I had do the repair said he has been seeing a lot of Davis radiators coming in lately and believes their quality is going down.

So far no issues, but this will be the first summer of wheeling so we'll see if it lasts. If not, hopefully I'll run into a problem before the 1 year warranty is up. I'm actually up in the FTC area if you ever want to meet up for a run and take a look this summer.
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post #24 of 28 Old 06-15-2017, 07:06 AM
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I know it's not the Ron Davis, but I ended up going with the C&R Radiator. They've added an extra reinforcement header plate where the tubes meet the tank with the hopes of it reducing/eliminating the flex the radiators are experiencing. My stock AEV radiator began to leak on the drivers side just after one year. Had a local shop do a repair for $80. It lasted through the next wheeling season before leaking again. So that is when I ponied up for the C&R. You can buy direct, and both Jegs and Summit usually have them in stock. They are $1100 compared to the $1600 for the Ron Davis. It is a direct fit and I didn't have to mess with a fan controller. The shop I had do the repair said he has been seeing a lot of Davis radiators coming in lately and believes their quality is going down.

So far no issues, but this will be the first summer of wheeling so we'll see if it lasts. If not, hopefully I'll run into a problem before the 1 year warranty is up. I'm actually up in the FTC area if you ever want to meet up for a run and take a look this summer.
I have the C & R Radiator as well. I talked to the owner at SEMA and he had done a lot of testing with it in his own Jeep before bringing these to the Public for sale. He said these radiators will take 100 PSI do to the way they are constructed. So far it has been excellent since I installed it in November. I still have my AEV Radiator in the garage and it never leaked. I will sell it if anyone needs one. They were built by Michigan Brazing. The new AEV builds have the C & R unit installed. These radiators definitely have more cooling capacity and bring the temp down quicker when the fans kick on.

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post #25 of 28 Old 06-15-2017, 07:47 PM
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Thanks for the info guys. Ill take a look at C&R.


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