Newbie Question: RE: RK Lifts - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 20 Old 06-21-2015, 05:06 PM Thread Starter
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Newbie Question: RE: RK Lifts

Hi all,

I am new to the forum and a new jeep owner (2015 Rubicon). So far, everything about the jeep experience has been great. I hope to get some new insight on a potential issue...

I recently had a local company install a Rock Krawler 2.5" Flex kit on my jeep. After about 100 miles (tops), the jam nut on the front track bar was loose. I brought it back to the company that installed it, and initially they put a crescent wrench on it after crawling underneath. Then they said it was good. After that, they took an impact wrench to the jam nut (on one of the CA jam nuts as well) and went to town impacting the nuts. Now, I'm not feeling the best about my purchase, but I hope to learn some things from you all and get some advice:

1) The RK manual says for 7/8" jam nuts a range of 200-220 ft*lbs. 1" jam nuts require 250-300 ft*lbs. For those of you with this system, how do you do it? Torque wrench and crowsfeet?
2) Are you able to just crawl under and do what needs to be done, or do you have to use jack stands?

The story keeps changing from these guys on frequency of inspection, from two weeks to every 500 miles. Is this reasonable?

I will admit that I tried to do as much research as I could, but this issue took me by surprise. Sorry for the ramble...I don't want to end up like the guy on this forum who was in a terrible accident and had a RK setup.

Mike

Last edited by mpparent; 06-21-2015 at 05:18 PM.
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post #2 of 20 Old 06-21-2015, 06:18 PM
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Dont forget Red loctite.
This is how i did it. Yes .. crowsfoot and a torque wrench.

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2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers
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post #3 of 20 Old 06-21-2015, 07:12 PM
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I wonder how one uses an impact wrench on a jam nut?

I am going to venture that Kjeeper has the jam nut tightening process down better than just about anyone.
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post #4 of 20 Old 06-21-2015, 07:17 PM
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Inspect when doing oil changes or after wheeling trips. I typically use two 15" cresent wrenches to tighten mine down but I do not use RK products. You could also put some loctite on the threads if they become an issue.

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post #5 of 20 Old 06-21-2015, 09:21 PM Thread Starter
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Guys,

Thanks for the reply's. So, I gather I'm going to have to take the track bar and each of the control arms off each time eh? A bit of a pain in the ass, but I guess that's the price you pay.

Mike
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post #6 of 20 Old 06-21-2015, 09:26 PM Thread Starter
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I didn't see exactly, but it looked like he had a chisel on the end of the impact wrench. Also, a couple of the jam nut surfaces were damaged, i.e. gouges in the metal faces.
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post #7 of 20 Old 06-21-2015, 10:56 PM
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you should really spend some time getting to know your jeep/lift/how it works. and if you're worried about a jam nut being scratched....lol.

A good tip is to draw a line from the jam nut to the control arm - that way you know if it has loosened at all and you never have to guess. You'll waste less time trying to figure it out and peace of mind - I can see all of mine minus the front uppers without even getting under it.
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post #8 of 20 Old 06-22-2015, 04:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mpparent View Post
Guys,

Thanks for the reply's. So, I gather I'm going to have to take the track bar and each of the control arms off each time eh? A bit of a pain in the ass, but I guess that's the price you pay.

Mike

Lower arms and track bars yes... For best results. Ive heard of people tightening the nuts with frame side mounted. I just cant see getting enough leverage on them. Keeping the joint center in the mount is a challenge as well.
The only set i was able to tighten on the jeep, rear uppers. I used metal blocks to hold the joints center.

Good luck !!!


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2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers
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post #9 of 20 Old 06-22-2015, 04:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jadmt View Post
I wonder how one uses an impact wrench on a jam nut?



I am going to venture that Kjeeper has the jam nut tightening process down better than just about anyone.

Crows foot i assume?

2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers
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post #10 of 20 Old 06-22-2015, 05:11 AM
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I use a large crescent wrench and tighten it as much as I can by hand. After that I use a large rubber hammer and smack the crescent wrench with it to ensure it is tight. Its been three years, no issues. It sounds like your installer did not do the right thing from the beginning. The only times mine were lose were after the Jeep was aligned.

BTW, I am also interested in how someone used an impact wrench on a jam nut.

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2012 JKU Sport, Rock Krawler 2.5 Flex, Smittybilt SRC Side Armor, Mesh Grille MOD, Sony Double DIN AV Receiver, Back up Camera, Kicker Speaker Upgrade, ARB Twin Compressor, Dominion Off Road High Lift Mount, Homemade Paracord Grab Handles, Nitto Trail Grapplers, Paramount Rear Bumper with Tire Carrier, KC Hilites Daylighters, under seat lock box, Metal Cloak Front Bumper, BARTACT Seat Covers, BARTACT Sun Shade, x20 Comp Winch, sPOD, ARB Air lockers, 4.10 Gears.
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post #11 of 20 Old 06-22-2015, 05:23 AM
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You don't need to remove them to inspect. The comments above are saying you need to remove them to tighten.

I tighten my lowers with the frame side attached and the control and hanging down. i find a position where I can sit on my butt grab the jeep and push with my foot. I don't use a torque wrench. I use the forehead vein bulge meter. Lower jam nuts require ready to burst, bright red face force. Uppers are just tight as fuck force. Sometimes the joint wants to turn as I tighten but not always. When it does I just start with the joint turned to compensate. It's trial and error to get it straight, but I just do it. The rear uppers I do while install and the front off of the jeep. I don't use locktite on control arms and have never had one come loose, but I don't twist my shit till it binds like some people. It's just not necessary with the wheeling I do.

I rotate my own tires, so when I do I check the arms by grabbing and trying to turn and move them. If they move by hand there is a problem. I also do this with all the steering components and check all the suspension and steering mounting bolts.

It sounds like the issues you are having are with a sloppy install

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post #12 of 20 Old 06-22-2015, 06:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mpparent View Post
I didn't see exactly, but it looked like he had a chisel on the end of the impact wrench. Also, a couple of the jam nut surfaces were damaged, i.e. gouges in the metal faces.
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Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Crows foot i assume?
sounds like they used a chisel head yikes...
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post #13 of 20 Old 06-22-2015, 07:08 AM
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An "upgrade" to the design of the arms would make this task more simple. Not sure why they don't machine a couple of flat spots on the arms so you can get a wrench on it. For those that tighten them on the frame just drop a wedge along side the joint to keep it centered while you tighten the jam nut.

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post #14 of 20 Old 06-22-2015, 07:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
An "upgrade" to the design of the arms would make this task more simple. Not sure why they don't machine a couple of flat spots on the arms so you can get a wrench on it. For those that tighten them on the frame just drop a wedge along side the joint to keep it centered while you tighten the jam nut.
My RK arms have flats.
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post #15 of 20 Old 06-22-2015, 08:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
An "upgrade" to the design of the arms would make this task more simple. Not sure why they don't machine a couple of flat spots on the arms so you can get a wrench on it. For those that tighten them on the frame just drop a wedge along side the joint to keep it centered while you tighten the jam nut.

Agree here.

2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers
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post #16 of 20 Old 06-22-2015, 08:36 AM
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I have a quick question semi related to this. I want to shorten my RK rear uppers to adjust my pinion angle a bit. If I undo the forward (frame) joint will it just drop out of the mount (frame side) easily to adjust without removing the axle side joint from its axle mount?

I have extended bumpstops next to the axle end UCA mount and it's a pain to get to the mounting bolt on the axle end of the UCA. If I can just undo the front mount and adjust length without doing the axle end too this process will be much easier, lol
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post #17 of 20 Old 06-22-2015, 08:52 AM
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I dont think you can because theres a taper to the mount. The joint can only slide back not down. The axle side should lift out easily... Try that.

2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers
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post #18 of 20 Old 06-22-2015, 09:00 AM
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I dont think you can because theres a taper to the mount. The joint can only slide back not down. The axle side should lift out easily... Try that.
Ok... Thanks, but darn that sucks. My bumpstops block the bolt heads for the axle UCA mounts and those stupid little bolts that hole the bumpstop extensions in are a pain, lol.
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post #19 of 20 Old 06-22-2015, 09:14 AM
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I had a hell of a time getting the TF stops off. The bolts were rusted and seized.

2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers
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post #20 of 20 Old 06-22-2015, 06:29 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lkjk View Post
you should really spend some time getting to know your jeep/lift/how it works. and if you're worried about a jam nut being scratched....lol.

A good tip is to draw a line from the jam nut to the control arm - that way you know if it has loosened at all and you never have to guess. You'll waste less time trying to figure it out and peace of mind - I can see all of mine minus the front uppers without even getting under it.
Certainly, that's the idea is to get acquainted. However, my point was I don't think RK's intent was for a 4x4 installer to use a impact wrench w/ a chisel to install their system.

All of the jam nuts were indexed, but that doesn't prove they were torqued to spec.

Just sayin'...
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