2014 JKUR Front Axles Issues/Concerns (I might be mental) - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 06-15-2015, 07:20 AM Thread Starter
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2014 JKUR Front Axles Issues/Concerns (I might be mental)

So I had some recent warranty nonsense done to my jeep.

They tell me the axle seals are leaking (could have been rausch creek mud, that stuff is nasty), do I want them to do them? (I don't but...)I eventually say yes, since it's there.

Please keep in mind I have a well equipped shop at my home, and I don't like anyone touching my shit..

Long story short the dealer breaks the front locker, when reinstalling, since they didn't hold the plunger out (brilliant) and my jeep sits there for 10 days waiting for a replacement locker.

So I pick up my pile, and they tell me my front axle is bent and they won't warranty it since it's been offroad (I'm thinking, no shit)..

So I put my jeep in my shop, level concrete flor, and start picking it apart a little, I did know that I was out of the caster spec, since I adjusted my pinion up to keep the driveshaft out of harms way, and also to try to keep the rubber boot off of the exhaust.

It's a claytons kit, so I put a few turns in the upper arms to get my caster closer to spec before I even started.

With the front axle perfectly level, (Level on the long tube), I check the short side and it looks good, and then also start to look at the camber, I initally checked at the wheel bearing on both sides, and they looked good as well. Meaning I used a level, and the bubble showed that it was square with the axle tube.

I slam the tires back on it, and use a long level from the bottom to the top on both of the tires, and once again, not bad (pretty close to square).

I run it up the road and back, and recheck, the drivers side had a 1/2" or better of camber (negative). At that point I had other work to get done, but do you think a ball joint could create that much camber?

Jeep is a 2014 26k and 35's been to Rausch Creek once with it, and ran blues/blacks. didn't ram anything. My last rig was tube and ton's so I didn't beat on it like that.

My question is ( I know I was long winded) wheel bearing seems tight, ball joints arent falling out of it, what could be moving that much? Bent ball joint, bad ball joint, but hasn't loosened up yet?

I might be crazy, but any advise is appreciated..
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post #2 of 9 Old 06-15-2015, 07:51 AM
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So the seals and locker were replaced under warranty and when you went to pick it up they told you your axle was bent after it was fixed? I doubt anything is bent, maybe they got a bad measurement. A reputable alignment shop could tell you if anything is wrong in a few minutes.

If it ain't broke, fix it 'till it is.
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post #3 of 9 Old 06-15-2015, 07:57 AM Thread Starter
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Understood..

It's just odd that it's fine one minute, and after a test drive, the measurement changes. Significantly.
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post #4 of 9 Old 06-15-2015, 06:14 PM
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are your stock ball joints toast after 26k miles and wearing 35" tyres for a bit?

Highly likely! I wore a set out in half that time with just road use.

ex: RHD JK 2dr CRD auto
now: RHD JK 2dr Rubicon 3.8 6spd

Last edited by CRDTom; 06-15-2015 at 06:18 PM.
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post #5 of 9 Old 06-16-2015, 05:05 AM
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Take it to an alignment shop and get a printout of the specs. Yes, good chance your ball joints are toast, easy to check, but get the baseline resigns so you know where it stands.


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'09 JKRU. 4" Teraflex long arm, Teraflex R44 housing, Teraflex / Fox Resis, Poly Performance skids, Nemesis Billy Rockers, Nemesis flares, 37" ATZ P3s on 17" 5x5.5" Trailready HDs, Spyntec hubs, Teraflex BBK, Mopar BBK master/booster, Superior front & Alloy USA rear axle shafts, CTMs, Reids, Synergy drag link & tie rod, WTOR hydro-boosted steering, 5.38s, TF Dual Rate front bar, TF bumpers, Warn Powerplant, Tom Woods shafts, AA xfer case cable, Kilby canister relo, RH4x4 cage.
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post #6 of 9 Old 06-16-2015, 07:56 AM
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Putting a level on the tubes wont tell you shit IMO.

The best way to see how an axle is bent is to tear it completely down, install some pucks in the carrier bearing and run a Thompson rod through it. Then you look at the ends of the Thompson rod and see how far up or down they are in relation to the ENDS of the tubes. You can measure the deflection as well. Then, if bent at all, you can come up with a game plan to bend the axle back into place.

Next best thing is to check camber.

Here is our welding/alignment/bending jig


Weve saved axles that were bent using this jig before. My buddy buys/gets free bent axles, straightens them and sells them.

But the real magic is those pucks in the carrier and the thompson rod(you cant see the ends obviously) so that you can SEE/MEASURE the deflection, if any at all.

That was my axle in the jig while we were welding on it. People said my axle was junk, we didnt know what we were doing, etc... I ended up with .2 and .3 of camber which the alignment shop said was most likely BETTER than factory.
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post #7 of 9 Old 06-16-2015, 08:09 AM Thread Starter
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Once additional question?

For those of you whose ball joints were toast, were they loose?

I checked mine with a bar last night, and they seem tight, I realize it doesnt mean shit..

Just curious.

recommendations on replacement? Synergy Moog Etc?
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post #8 of 9 Old 06-17-2015, 01:43 AM
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How much are you selling the axles for, once repaired?
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post #9 of 9 Old 06-17-2015, 04:18 AM
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I just put a set of alloy USA ball joints on mine they seem pretty good nice and tight and they are all steel with grease fittings plus the price is good but time will tell as far as your rig I say ditch the stock ball joints either way they're junk
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