Started my locker install and regear today - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 20 Old 06-01-2015, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
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Started my locker install and regear today

Hello all

So today I started the teardown on my non rubi rear to install 5.13s and a Eaton e locker(thanks Marcus from rco) . Just thought I would post up a little bit along the way. Will be adding pics of the pattern as I go along with the changes I make.... Provided I remember to take the pics. But in the mean time can anyone identify what this part it? Not sure where this was connected or if it's part of the locker assembly. Thanks guys.
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post #2 of 20 Old 06-01-2015, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by jkpatton View Post
Hello all

So today I started the teardown on my non rubi rear to install 5.13s and a Eaton e locker(thanks Marcus from rco) . Just thought I would post up a little bit along the way. Will be adding pics of the pattern as I go along with the changes I make.... Provided I remember to take the pics. But in the mean time can anyone identify what this part it? Not sure where this was connected or if it's part of the locker assembly. Thanks guys.
Are you serious?

Kevin
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post #3 of 20 Old 06-01-2015, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
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post #4 of 20 Old 06-01-2015, 07:54 PM
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Never mind. I just saw the diff cover and bolts on the ground.

The part in the picture is your secondary shift lever. You need to force it half way through the center console, then give it a couple tacks.

Kevin
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post #5 of 20 Old 06-01-2015, 07:57 PM
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...
Now I'm back to............Are you serious?

Kevin
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post #6 of 20 Old 06-01-2015, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
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Just a smidgen of humor on a topic people either fear like the rapture or embrace like a drunk stripper.
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post #7 of 20 Old 06-01-2015, 08:19 PM
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Just a smidgen of humor on a topic people either fear like the rapture or embrace like a drunk stripper.
Well, you got me twice then. Well done.

Kevin
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post #8 of 20 Old 06-02-2015, 05:35 AM
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Hello all

Not sure where this was connected or if it's part of the locker assembly. Thanks guys.

Are you sure that's part of the locker or is it something you found in your woman's nightstand?

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If I'm gonna kiss a man, I want it to be hard and rough... not gay!
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post #9 of 20 Old 06-02-2015, 07:08 AM
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Will be adding pics of the pattern as I go along with the changes I make....
not going to comment on the pic of the driveshaft in your hand...


You doing these by trial and error and running patterns? Because this will be the result

pinion depth gauge, back lash gauge and setup bearings are your friend.

Measure, do math, insert shims, slide setup bearing on, re-measure, do more math, add or subtract shims. Once you like your math, run a pattern. remove setup bearings, press new bearings on, do final install. Generally only need to run 1 pattern if your math is on.

Hopefully you have a bearing puller or press and not trying to use a punch and hammer to remove and install your bearings constantly. Thats a recipe for fucking something up.

I'm sure you have a good game plan though.
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post #10 of 20 Old 06-02-2015, 07:41 AM Thread Starter
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Are you sure that's part of the locker or is it something you found in your woman's nightstand?
Going to need more that til fill that void..........

Using setup bearings and going to start this morning with the stock shims as a base after that it's math time. I'm that kind of person that believes math is my friend. I have a big dry erase board in my garage that's currently dedicated to this gear install to help record every change and the results.
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post #11 of 20 Old 06-02-2015, 09:22 AM
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Going to need more that til fill that void..........

Using setup bearings and going to start this morning with the stock shims as a base after that it's math time. I'm that kind of person that believes math is my friend. I have a big dry erase board in my garage that's currently dedicated to this gear install to help record every change and the results.
so you have a pinion depth gauge kit? What about backlash gauge?

With a pinion depth gauge and setup bearings no need to even reuse the factory shim as a "starting point". Take all your measurements with zero shims and you will know how far to bring it up. Then re-check your measurements with your shim stack and if its good with your math, start setting backlash and pre-load. THEN run a pattern.

Only way the factory shim stack will work(or even be close) is if your new pinion is the same as your factory pinion(overall length and pinion head thickness). Some are, some arent. Your new pinion should have the measurement marked on it for overall length. The factory may or may not be marked. Then you can compare the head thickness's. You need all those numbers anyway for your math.

Dont just start throwing shit together and running patterns IMO.

Sounds like you know what you are doing and possibly have the right gauges. If you do it right the first time you will run 1 pattern and be done.
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post #12 of 20 Old 06-02-2015, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice but I am lacking the pinion depth gauge. I should clarified that the only factory shim I started with was the pinion. The pic is 001 over the factory.

This is not done I repeat this is not done.

This where I left it for today. Was working on it under the jeep but decided to just pull the axle.


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post #13 of 20 Old 06-02-2015, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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I'm checking backlash with a dial indicator. If that's what you mean by a backlash gauge. If not I'm not sure what your referring to. Is there a better tool for the job?
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post #14 of 20 Old 06-03-2015, 03:43 AM
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Are you sure that's part of the locker or is it something you found in your woman's nightstand?

LOL

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post #15 of 20 Old 06-03-2015, 05:31 AM
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I'm checking backlash with a dial indicator. If that's what you mean by a backlash gauge. If not I'm not sure what your referring to. Is there a better tool for the job?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...FQqGaQodfGIAaA
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post #16 of 20 Old 06-03-2015, 05:45 AM
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Looks to me like you are on the toe both sides which means back lash is low.

One thing I was taught to do when running a pattern is hold the palm of your hand on the ring gear while spinning it just slightly to put a slight load on it. Helps produce a slightly more accurate pattern.
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post #17 of 20 Old 06-03-2015, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
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That's what I'm using just a different brand. Forgot to take a pic of my final pattern before final install. Almost overshot pinion preload. That window flys by quick. 5 inch pounds then an 1/8 turn and I'm at 35-36 inch pounds on preload. Did it with a homemade flange wrench and a 5ft breaker bar.
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post #18 of 20 Old 06-04-2015, 06:30 AM Thread Starter
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The down and dirty caveman crude flange wrench I whipped up out of scraps. It's about 4-5ft long.
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post #19 of 20 Old 06-04-2015, 06:43 AM
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Have fun with the rear crush sleeve. I ended up re-using the factory crush sleeve when I did my gears in April.

850 ft. lb air gun wouldnt budge it. Had a 4' breaker bar with 4' of pipe and two guys hanging on it and wouldnt budge it. This was all while the axle was chained into our welding/bending jig with 3 guys hanging on the axle to keep it from moving around.
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post #20 of 20 Old 06-04-2015, 04:11 PM Thread Starter
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The crush sleeve went OK. Put the axle blocked up on the ground. Attached my flange wrench so it rested on the ground then used a breaker bar with tubing on it. Went fairly easy actually. Just almost shot past spec but I'm good.

Just took it for a test drive. No noises other than the normal jeep noises. So far so good. My work is about 15 miles round trip of 35-45 mph. So it will be easy going for a few weeks.
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