2005+ Super Duty D60 Axle Bible - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 117 Old 05-29-2015, 09:25 AM Thread Starter
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2005+ Super Duty D60 Axle Bible

Given the interest in the 2005+ Super Duty axle, I decided to collect all the relevant information into one place. I'll continue to add to and update the list as I find new information.

For those with info to add or corrections to make, please PM me rather than posting a reply as this thread will be most useful if we contain the info into the original post. Certainly feel free to have discussion in the thread, ask questions, post pictures of what you have done with the axle, etc.

Axle: 2005-2010 D60
***There is some confusion over the term "super 60". The true Super 60 is found on the F450/F550. The axle is wider, has larger knuckles, 10 lug adapters, some have a 10" ring gear and 1550 u-joints,etc.

Related Trucks: F250/F350, SRW (not sure on DRW)

Axle Specs
-Tubes: 3.75" OD, 1/2" wall
-WMS to WMS: 72"
-Ring Gear: 9.75" (a 10" can be sourced from Ford in limited ratios)
-Lug Pattern: 8x170
-Wheel Studs: M14x1.50
-Weight: Approximately 750lbs loaded with brakes
-Axle shafts: 35 spline
-U-joints: 1450
-Tone ring: 60 tooth

Part numbers for axle parts (not an inclusive list)
Ball Joint Upper
-Moog/XRF - K80026
-Ford - 5C3Z-3049-AB (MCSOE-67) + Nut - F2TZ-3A049-A

Ball Joint Lower
-Moog/XRF - K8607T
-Ford - 8C3Z-3050-C (MCSOE-51) + Nut - F2TZ-3A050-A + Snap Ring - EOTZ-3K050-B

Updated Dust Shield
-Ford - AC3Z-1S175-A (BRS-170)
-Spicer - SS 53877

Axle Seal
-Ford - 5C3Z-3254-AA
-Spicer - SS 2017426 (55474 old#)

AutoLock Hub O-Ring kit (not needed since vacuum system won't be used)
-Ford - 5C3Z-1K106-AB (complete kit with 2 o-rings, gasket, screws)

Yellow Hub/Knuckle O-ring
-Ford - 5C3Z-4A322-AA
-Dana/Spicer - 54983

U-Joint
Spicer - SPL55-3X
Spicer Greaseable - SPL55-4X

High Steer Options
***Note that there was a small change in the knuckle design in 2009. It is unknown at this point if 05-08 knuckles can work with 09+ or if some alignment modification will be needed. The Reid knuckle below was based on the 05-08 cast.

-Reid Racing Knuckle (passenger side only): http://www.reidracing.biz/off-road-p...hsteer-knuckle

-Weaver Fabrication (driver and passenger machining): https://www.weaverfabrication.com/

-4wheelsupply: http://www.fourwheelsupply.net/colle...ining-services

High Steer Arms for Reid knuckle
***Note that some early versions of the Reid knuckle used a coarse thread base for the stud. See relevant stud parts below. Most will machine the arm for your desired use case. E.g. tapered end, 3/4" hole for Heim, etc.

- Artec Industries (have to call, not listed on website)

- WFO Concepts: http://www.wfoconcepts.com/pr/Reid-F...168/3462/10844

Stud kits

-Fine thread base: Use ARP Reid Stud kit

-Coarse thread base: Use Dorman stud (kits available at WFO) http://www.dormanproducts.com/itemde...SEName=675-031

ABS sensors that work with the JK
-Dorman http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00..._detailpages00

Axle shafts
-RCV: CVJ60-F350


Axle Prep
***Most of what needs to be removed is obvious, however the picture below illustrates areas to be removed (source credit: Artec). A porta-band is by far the easiest way to cut the cast. Use caution with plasma or a torch as it could cause the cast to crack.



Removing cast from driver side axle tube (and welding tube to cast)

-Use a porta-band to make parallel cuts into the cast section around the axle tube. Carefully make perpendicular cuts through the cast, but not into the underlying axle tube. Using an air hammer with chisel will make it easy to pop the cast off. Note that the plug welds are extremely hard and will eat band saw blades. The cast will pop off around the plug welds and the plugs can be taken down with a grinding wheel later.

-It is recommended that you weld the exposed tube to the cast. I will only list methods approved by qualified engineers and PhD's in the auto industry (you may choose to go another route). Regardless, it is not recommended to make structural welds to the cast (e.g. link brackets).
***TIG wild with Ni55 or Ni99 rod with moderate pre and post heat
***Mig weld with Crown Alloy 44-30 (do not breathe the fumes while using this product. Recommend a min of a P100 filter, half face mask and in a room that has plenty of ventilation or a vent hood. http://www.crownalloys.com/TechSheet/R44.pdf



Bracket options

-Artec swap kit (retains stock geometry): http://www.artecindustries.com/JK-1-...it-_p_451.html

-Custom setup: Artec offers a unique bracket for the limited weld space on the driver side. If you order in advance, you can get the one out of the swap kit for the 3.75" tube. Or, they offer a stock version for a 3" tube that can be ground out to 3.75" (I don't recommend this route as it is very difficult to maintain the angle). http://www.artecindustries.com/Dana-...air_p_260.html

-Many companies offer brackets: Artec, Ruffstuff, Ballistic Fabrication, Blue Torch Fab, etc.

-Track bar bracket when not using swap kit: The Artec JK bracket will fit with some grinding to fit the larger axle tube. I have not seen another bracket that locates the track bar forward of the axle enough to make clearing a track bar easy. http://www.artecindustries.com/JK-He...ket_p_314.html

Drag link

- Depending on the axle side mount location, the drag link should come out around 43", therefore it requires a custom drag link (however, it may be possible to ream the pitman arm and use the stock Ford drag link)

- Drag link options: Too many to list. Many companies will make custom drag links (WFO, Bullet Proof Steering, or buy some DOM and tube adapters and make one).

Tie Rod
***Even with a low profile diff cover, some sort of offset tie rod is required - offset GM ends will not get it done. Depending on setup, you have the option to run the tie rod over the knuckle.

Known options
- Bullet Proof Steering http://bulletproofsteering.com/

- Rock Krawler Pro tie rod ends: buy the ends for $200 and order a length of 7075 from Wide Open design or similar, you will save $200. Artec makes inserts for the knuckle. The Ford TREs are massive and the hole opening is .91". The Artec conical spacers are designed to work with the RK 18mm bolts. Bullet Proof Steering includes a solution with the tie rod.

- Make your own

Locking Hubs

- Stock Ford hubs. There are manual and auto versions. Both work as a manual style hub.

- Warn Premium hubs. https://www.warn.com/truck/hubs/ford...uty_Hubs.shtml

- RPM Offroad Drive flange (if you wheel hard and/or run large tires off-road, it is recommended to swap drive flanges in while wheeling). http://www.rpmoffroad.com/RPM-Offroa...ve-Flange.html

Differential Covers
***A high clearance cover is recommended for tie rod clearance.

- Ballistic Fabrication (be prepared to have the cover machined flat...): http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...er_p_1887.html

- ARB: http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-153...cover-arb.html

- Teraflex: http://ok4wd.com/teraflex-hd-cover-f...gs-d60-3990660

Last edited by Invest2m4; 06-02-2015 at 12:19 PM.
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post #2 of 117 Old 05-29-2015, 09:45 AM
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Great post, thanks for sharing this info!

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post #3 of 117 Old 05-29-2015, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
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No problem. Hopefully it becomes a useful resource. I tried to get as much content up as I could today. I'll get back to it next week.
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post #4 of 117 Old 06-01-2015, 08:27 AM
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Subscribed. Great stuff. Will definitely be using this and I'll send you a pm if i find anything else worth a damn.

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Talent will not; nothing is more common than unsuccessful men with talent.
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post #5 of 117 Old 06-02-2015, 12:20 PM Thread Starter
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Updated with more content.

For those interested, feel free to chime in about additional information you would like to see on this axle.
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post #6 of 117 Old 10-15-2015, 05:46 AM
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How about one for the rear axle. Sterling.

Last edited by FireTrail741; 10-15-2015 at 05:49 AM.
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post #7 of 117 Old 10-15-2015, 07:57 AM
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Awesome! Been reading a bunch on pirate about these. Thanks for the post!

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post #8 of 117 Old 10-15-2015, 08:17 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FireTrail741 View Post
How about one for the rear axle. Sterling.
Well, there really isn't much to the Sterling. Artec makes a swap kit, or you can put your own brackets on. Then it is just the usual decisions such as gears/lockers, driveshaft, etc. Already has disk brakes. Only issue is there is usually a contact issue with JKUs where it touches the gas tank skid. Most people just put in a tank off a 2-door and that solves it.
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post #9 of 117 Old 10-15-2015, 08:25 AM
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One other thing about the Sterling is you dont want 2011+ one (I believe that is the year). Aftermarket support for those disappears for some reason.


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post #10 of 117 Old 10-15-2015, 08:33 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALASHA View Post
One other thing about the Sterling is you dont want 2011+ one (I believe that is the year). Aftermarket support for those disappears for some reason.
No aftermarket gears or lockers. You are stuck with Ford ratios and no locker option. They went to a larger gear and I think increased the axle spline count.
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post #11 of 117 Old 10-15-2015, 08:36 AM
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FYI a ARB cover will clear the '05 up tie rod..
The 2011 Sterling had a option of a elect locker.

Dealer for: MoTech, Atlas, Dynatrac, Rock Krawler, ORO, Currie, Poison Spyder, Bilstein, Fox, SWAY-A-WAY, Ridid, Adams and Tom Woods DS's. And much more!


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post #12 of 117 Old 10-15-2015, 08:41 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CT Performance, Inc View Post
FYI a ARB cover will clear the '05 up tie rod..
The 2011 Sterling had a option of a elect locker.
Ballistic fab makes a super low profile cover as well. They made it specifically for the 05+ axle. Also cheaper than the ARB.

I have an extra if anyone is looking for one! haha. In fact, I have 3 new D60 diff covers sitting in my garage....
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post #13 of 117 Old 10-15-2015, 09:36 AM
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Any thoughts on converting these to 8x6.5 if you already have the wheels?
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post #14 of 117 Old 10-15-2015, 09:41 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigPrince View Post
Any thoughts on converting these to 8x6.5 if you already have the wheels?
I say not worth it. You will need to get all four hubs and rotors drilled and then any time you need a new rotor or hub, same thing again. Also, I don't think there is enough material on the hub for it to be safe.

Now, another option would be if your wheels have a decent amount of backspace, say 5" or more. Then you could use adapters from Bulletproof Offroad. It would just add an inch.
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post #15 of 117 Old 11-10-2015, 02:48 PM
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If I get a Dana 60 front from a 201 dually what is needed to make it work? Do I just remove the spacers and then all else in this thread applies or is there other things needed or is it different besides just the spacers?
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post #16 of 117 Old 01-21-2016, 03:15 PM
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Excellent info and source, thank you for putting this together!


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post #17 of 117 Old 02-22-2016, 10:14 PM
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Does anyone have a set of axle shafts sitting around? I broke my drivers side inner shaft this weekend and am looking to order some chromos but I'm trying not to pull it part as it's still drivable right now.

What I need is the length of the inner axle shafts. I think they are measured from the end of the shaft to the center of the u-joint ear. Any help is appreciated.

My axle is from an 05 F-250 btw.
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post #18 of 117 Old 02-23-2016, 07:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lawnmower View Post
Does anyone have a set of axle shafts sitting around? I broke my drivers side inner shaft this weekend and am looking to order some chromos but I'm trying not to pull it part as it's still drivable right now.

What I need is the length of the inner axle shafts. I think they are measured from the end of the shaft to the center of the u-joint ear. Any help is appreciated.

My axle is from an 05 F-250 btw.
Short: 16.75”
Long: 38.875"

Correct, measured from the end of the shaft to center of ear. It is unfortunate that no one makes an outer chromo, so it is RCV or bust. I do know of a company who will be offering a full setup, but it will be end of this year or next year.

We do carry the RCVs for your axle if you are interested in something really strong.


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post #19 of 117 Old 02-23-2016, 08:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fusion 4x4 View Post
Short: It is unfortunate that no one makes an outer chromo, so it is RCV or bust.
Another option is to send stock axles out to a company like 300 Below and have then cryogenic treated. The cost is $3.50/lbs to have it done.
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post #20 of 117 Old 02-23-2016, 09:26 AM
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So just to add value to this thread. I reamed my stock pitman arm and reused the factory f350 drag link. Worked perfectly. That should be noted in the top for people doing this swap on the cheap. No need for fancy knuckles and high steer.

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post #21 of 117 Old 02-23-2016, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racinfast002 View Post
So just to add value to this thread. I reamed my stock pitman arm and reused the factory f350 drag link. Worked perfectly. That should be noted in the top for people doing this swap on the cheap. No need for fancy knuckles and high steer.
Any pics?
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post #22 of 117 Old 02-23-2016, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racinfast002 View Post
So just to add value to this thread. I reamed my stock pitman arm and reused the factory f350 drag link. Worked perfectly. That should be noted in the top for people doing this swap on the cheap. No need for fancy knuckles and high steer.
This is true. A stock JK drag link is around 40.5" +/- .5". With the wider axle, the drag link needs to be around 43"-44", which the stock Ford drag link conveniently is.

You do need to ream the pitman for the funky Ford taper. Many shops can do that for a small fee if you send the pitman arm in.

The ends of the stock tie rod appear to be pretty strong, but the center sleeve is weak. One option is to sleeve it in chromoly. Another option we have done is to machine a new sleeve out of DOM or 7075 and then use jam nuts. Definitely keeps the cost down. The Ford knuckle arm sits higher than a JK, so it is a good option for a moderate lift.


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post #23 of 117 Old 02-23-2016, 12:43 PM
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I can't imagine bending the tie rod. Joker is super heavy and seems beefy. But I guess anything is possible.

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post #24 of 117 Old 02-23-2016, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racinfast002 View Post
I can't imagine bending the tie rod. Joker is super heavy and seems beefy. But I guess anything is possible.
2climbing has bent three I believe. It is thin wall steel. The ends are where a lot of the weight is. Last I checked, he is going to try sleeving a stock one with chromo this time.

Another option would be to reuse the ends and use a new 7075 sleeve. I have not tried, but I am sure we could machine some 7075 solid bar to fit the ends and then machine some jam nuts. Just not sure it is worth the investment into a stock tie rod.


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post #25 of 117 Old 02-23-2016, 03:29 PM
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Well my whole goal is to use commercial off the shelf parts that I can get at any oriellys across the country. I will see how it holds up.

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