Given the interest in the 2005+ Super Duty axle, I decided to collect all the relevant information into one place. I'll continue to add to and update the list as I find new information.
For those with info to add or corrections to make, please PM me rather than posting a reply as this thread will be most useful if we contain the info into the original post. Certainly feel free to have discussion in the thread, ask questions, post pictures of what you have done with the axle, etc.
Axle: 2005-2010 D60
***There is some confusion over the term "super 60". The true Super 60 is found on the F450/F550. The axle is wider, has larger knuckles, 10 lug adapters, some have a 10" ring gear and 1550 u-joints,etc.
Related Trucks: F250/F350, SRW (not sure on DRW)
-Tubes: 3.75" OD, 1/2" wall
-WMS to WMS: 72"
-Ring Gear: 9.75" (a 10" can be sourced from Ford in limited ratios)
-Lug Pattern: 8x170
-Wheel Studs: M14x1.50
-Weight: Approximately 750lbs loaded with brakes
-Axle shafts: 35 spline
-Tone ring: 60 tooth
Part numbers for axle parts (not an inclusive list)
Ball Joint Upper
-Moog/XRF - K80026
-Ford - 5C3Z-3049-AB (MCSOE-67) + Nut - F2TZ-3A049-A
Ball Joint Lower
-Moog/XRF - K8607T
-Ford - 8C3Z-3050-C (MCSOE-51) + Nut - F2TZ-3A050-A + Snap Ring - EOTZ-3K050-B
Updated Dust Shield
-Ford - AC3Z-1S175-A (BRS-170)
-Spicer - SS 53877
-Ford - 5C3Z-3254-AA
-Spicer - SS 2017426 (55474 old#)
AutoLock Hub O-Ring kit (not needed since vacuum system won't be used)
-Ford - 5C3Z-1K106-AB (complete kit with 2 o-rings, gasket, screws)
Yellow Hub/Knuckle O-ring
-Ford - 5C3Z-4A322-AA
-Dana/Spicer - 54983
Spicer - SPL55-3X
Spicer Greaseable - SPL55-4X
High Steer Options
***Note that there was a small change in the knuckle design in 2009. It is unknown at this point if 05-08 knuckles can work with 09+ or if some alignment modification will be needed. The Reid knuckle below was based on the 05-08 cast.
-Reid Racing Knuckle (passenger side only): http://www.reidracing.biz/off-road-p...hsteer-knuckle
-Weaver Fabrication (driver and passenger machining): https://www.weaverfabrication.com/
High Steer Arms for Reid knuckle
***Note that some early versions of the Reid knuckle used a coarse thread base for the stud. See relevant stud parts below. Most will machine the arm for your desired use case. E.g. tapered end, 3/4" hole for Heim, etc.
- Artec Industries (have to call, not listed on website)
- WFO Concepts: http://www.wfoconcepts.com/pr/Reid-F...168/3462/10844
-Fine thread base: Use ARP Reid Stud kit
-Coarse thread base: Use Dorman stud (kits available at WFO) http://www.dormanproducts.com/itemde...SEName=675-031
ABS sensors that work with the JK
***Most of what needs to be removed is obvious, however the picture below illustrates areas to be removed (source credit: Artec
). A porta-band is by far the easiest way to cut the cast. Use caution with plasma or a torch as it could cause the cast to crack.
Removing cast from driver side axle tube (and welding tube to cast)
-Use a porta-band to make parallel cuts into the cast section around the axle tube. Carefully make perpendicular cuts through the cast, but not into the underlying axle tube. Using an air hammer with chisel will make it easy to pop the cast off. Note that the plug welds are extremely hard and will eat band saw blades. The cast will pop off around the plug welds and the plugs can be taken down with a grinding wheel later.
-It is recommended that you weld the exposed tube to the cast. I will only list methods approved by qualified engineers and PhD's in the auto industry (you may choose to go another route). Regardless, it is not recommended to make structural welds to the cast (e.g. link brackets).
***TIG wild with Ni55 or Ni99 rod with moderate pre and post heat
***Mig weld with Crown Alloy 44-30 (do not breathe the fumes while using this product. Recommend a min of a P100 filter, half face mask and in a room that has plenty of ventilation or a vent hood. http://www.crownalloys.com/TechSheet/R44.pdf
-Artec swap kit (retains stock geometry): http://www.artecindustries.com/JK-1-...it-_p_451.html
-Custom setup: Artec offers a unique bracket for the limited weld space on the driver side. If you order in advance, you can get the one out of the swap kit for the 3.75" tube. Or, they offer a stock version for a 3" tube that can be ground out to 3.75" (I don't recommend this route as it is very difficult to maintain the angle). http://www.artecindustries.com/Dana-...air_p_260.html
-Many companies offer brackets: Artec, Ruffstuff, Ballistic Fabrication, Blue Torch Fab, etc.
-Track bar bracket when not using swap kit: The Artec JK bracket will fit with some grinding to fit the larger axle tube. I have not seen another bracket that locates the track bar forward of the axle enough to make clearing a track bar easy. http://www.artecindustries.com/JK-He...ket_p_314.html
- Depending on the axle side mount location, the drag link should come out around 43", therefore it requires a custom drag link (however, it may be possible to ream the pitman arm and use the stock Ford drag link)
- Drag link options: Too many to list. Many companies will make custom drag links (WFO, Bullet Proof Steering, or buy some DOM and tube adapters and make one).
***Even with a low profile diff cover, some sort of offset tie rod is required - offset GM ends will not get it done. Depending on setup, you have the option to run the tie rod over the knuckle.
- Bullet Proof Steering http://bulletproofsteering.com/
- Rock Krawler Pro tie rod ends: buy the ends for $200 and order a length of 7075 from Wide Open design or similar, you will save $200. Artec makes inserts for the knuckle. The Ford TREs are massive and the hole opening is .91". The Artec conical spacers are designed to work with the RK 18mm bolts. Bullet Proof Steering includes a solution with the tie rod.
- Make your own
- Stock Ford hubs. There are manual and auto versions. Both work as a manual style hub.
- Warn Premium hubs. https://www.warn.com/truck/hubs/ford...uty_Hubs.shtml
- RPM Offroad Drive flange (if you wheel hard and/or run large tires off-road, it is recommended to swap drive flanges in while wheeling). http://www.rpmoffroad.com/RPM-Offroa...ve-Flange.html
***A high clearance cover is recommended for tie rod clearance.
- Ballistic Fabrication (be prepared to have the cover machined flat...): http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...er_p_1887.html
- ARB: http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-153...cover-arb.html
- Teraflex: http://ok4wd.com/teraflex-hd-cover-f...gs-d60-3990660