Should I do a Drag Link flip - 3.5" lift - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 24 Old 05-27-2015, 10:35 PM Thread Starter
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Should I do a Drag Link flip - 3.5" lift

I have the parts, I just can't weld, so this will cost me a bit - welding of the artec track bar bracket.

I have 3.5" metalcloak coils. The handling is fine, touch of bump steer but its a solid axle.

I'm going back and forth over just leaving it - I don't want to get bigger bumps and lose any uptravel. I've read a ton about this and go back and forth - anybody have any thoughts? Any "it wasn't noticeable" people?
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post #2 of 24 Old 05-28-2015, 04:31 AM
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Since doing the flip my handling has improved not necessarily with less bump steer but damn it corners like a sports car. It's tighter steering with the higher roll enter for sure. The only reason I did the flip was because I needed the big beefy artec bracket for hydro assist. I hear you about losing uptravel I'm running 3" up front and it's killing me. The fix for that is a frame notch which I'll be doing writhin the next couple weeks
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post #3 of 24 Old 05-28-2015, 04:37 AM
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post #4 of 24 Old 05-28-2015, 06:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrazyLarry View Post
Since doing the flip my handling has improved not necessarily with less bump steer but damn it corners like a sports car. It's tighter steering with the higher roll enter for sure. The only reason I did the flip was because I needed the big beefy artec bracket for hydro assist. I hear you about losing uptravel I'm running 3" up front and it's killing me. The fix for that is a frame notch which I'll be doing writhin the next couple weeks
man, am I glad I have held-off on flipping my DL on a 3" Synergy coil stage II lift by using the trackbar bracket tthat came w/ it after reading about you lack of upswing; sorry for your issue but you helped some others who are "on the fence" about flipping their DL.TY and good luck...


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post #5 of 24 Old 05-28-2015, 06:50 AM
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It won't be an issue much longer once the frame is notched
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post #6 of 24 Old 05-28-2015, 10:46 AM
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I just installed mine along with my Synergy tie rod and Pro Rock 44...I notched the frame and welded in a piece of 3" diameter- 1/4 wall pipe sliced in half. I am using a 1 inch bump stop.
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post #7 of 24 Old 05-28-2015, 09:58 PM Thread Starter
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ok, so it sounds like big bumps or notch the frame....and no "night and day" difference...
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post #8 of 24 Old 05-28-2015, 10:21 PM
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I only have a 2.5" lift, and I did the flip. I just installed ram assist and at flex, the DL was hitting the ram.

But even with just a 2.5" lift, I experienced moderate bump steer. After the flip, none. It now steers and handles better now than it ever has. I have yet to address the bumps, and I'm not too crazy about notching a frame, especially in the front; so, I might just have to live with less up travel.

My set up:

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post #9 of 24 Old 05-29-2015, 07:42 AM
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IF you are properly set up a drag link flip will make a big difference in the steering in feel and tracking on the road, off road you will have less side to side shift in the axle/body due to articulation.

IF you are running 3.5" of lift and run 3" extended bump stops you should still have over 5" of up travel in the suspension which should be plenty for most people.

Some build info here:
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post #10 of 24 Old 05-29-2015, 07:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ogie View Post
I only have a 2.5" lift, and I did the flip. I just installed ram assist and at flex, the DL was hitting the ram.

But even with just a 2.5" lift, I experienced moderate bump steer. After the flip, none. It now steers and handles better now than it ever has. I have yet to address the bumps, and I'm not too crazy about notching a frame, especially in the front; so, I might just have to live with less up travel.

My set up:
This is the first I've seen of a 2.5 lift with a DL flip. My DL is starting to go. I was looking at a DL flip and thinking I would need to modify to a 3.5 lift. Very interested in what you did, do you have a build thread or more information?

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post #11 of 24 Old 05-29-2015, 08:00 AM
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Remember most lifts are not as advertised and many 2.5" lifts will give you 3"+ unless the jeep is heavy. The key is keeping the drag link and track bars as parallel to the ground as possible to reduce the axle shift caused by articulation.

Some build info here:
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post #12 of 24 Old 05-29-2015, 07:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkupbu View Post
This is the first I've seen of a 2.5 lift with a DL flip. My DL is starting to go. I was looking at a DL flip and thinking I would need to modify to a 3.5 lift. Very interested in what you did, do you have a build thread or more information?
It's nothing special, just TF 2.5" spring lift with .5" spacers in the front to make up for the winch/steel bumper.

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post #13 of 24 Old 05-29-2015, 07:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkupbu View Post
This is the first I've seen of a 2.5 lift with a DL flip. My DL is starting to go. I was looking at a DL flip and thinking I would need to modify to a 3.5 lift. Very interested in what you did, do you have a build thread or more information?


3" bump stop or notch the frame to make up for less bump stop.


You could run 3" bump stops on a 2.5" lift. Typically you don't want to bump stop more than you lift, but considering most 2.5" coils will put you close to if not a little more than 3" of lift you would be fine. Even if you only have an actual 2.5" of lift that extra .5" of bump is not going to be a huge deal.

I'll notch the frame and maintain 1.5"-2" bump stop.
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post #14 of 24 Old 05-29-2015, 09:23 PM
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Keep in mind, with raising the front roll center (track bar bracket), The rear needs to be raised as well. Roll center heights should match or set higher in the rear.

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post #15 of 24 Old 05-29-2015, 09:33 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Keep in mind, with raising the front roll center (track bar bracket), The rear needs to be raised as well. Roll center heights should match or set higher in the rear.

Good call. I have the rear artec bracket with like 4 holes, so not an issue for me. I think I'll stick with stock drag link location, I looked and would either need to sacrifice up-travel or notch the frame, neither of which I really feel like doing, especially since my handling seems fine.
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post #16 of 24 Old 05-29-2015, 10:54 PM
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I just don't see the point for a true 2.5" lift. With the up travel you lose I can't see the gain being worth it.

On my old 4 door with 3.5" I did and it improved cornering and steering noticeably. I also ran the trackbar and sector shaft brace.
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post #17 of 24 Old 05-30-2015, 09:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rmiller31 View Post
I just don't see the point for a true 2.5" lift. With the up travel you lose I can't see the gain being worth it.

On my old 4 door with 3.5" I did and it improved cornering and steering noticeably. I also ran the trackbar and sector shaft brace.
I didn't have much choice in my situation, but I will say it did make a huge improvement in my steering and handling. I don't regret doing it, but the loss of up travel will be disappointing, especially since I don't intend to notch the frame.

Maybe someday I'll move the ram to be mounted from the diff to knuckle, and I'll be able to move my TB and DL back to OEM locations. But for now, I'm OK with my set-up.

Oh, and as for matching the rear TB, I haven't done that. So far, I haven't seen the need to do it even though it may be technically correct to do so.

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post #18 of 24 Old 05-31-2015, 11:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lkjk View Post
I have the parts, I just can't weld, so this will cost me a bit - welding of the artec track bar bracket.

I have 3.5" metalcloak coils. The handling is fine, touch of bump steer but its a solid axle.

I'm going back and forth over just leaving it - I don't want to get bigger bumps and lose any uptravel. I've read a ton about this and go back and forth - anybody have any thoughts? Any "it wasn't noticeable" people?
im running 3.5" MC coils, 37" tires, 3" bump stops, and no drag link flip. Works and handles just fine.
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post #19 of 24 Old 06-01-2015, 03:24 AM
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With 2.75" front bumpstops my 37's lightly rub the metal support for my fenders at full stuff. Running 3" front bump stops is a good thing if you have 37's in your build plan, IMO.
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post #20 of 24 Old 06-01-2015, 03:30 AM
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I think a DL flip is in my future. A friend of mine used the EVO flip kit with his last year (2.5" bumps on the pad and Prothane replacement upper bumps) and he praises the hell out of it. Says that it's one of the most significant, beneficial things that he's done to improve the driveability of his Jeep. His frame to DL clearance is super tight, but it works, too. Interested to know what people prefer for a kit; I'm looking at the Synergy DL... any issues running it?

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post #21 of 24 Old 06-01-2015, 05:03 AM
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Nope ^^ best out there for the price.

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post #22 of 24 Old 06-01-2015, 06:14 AM
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Makes a huge difference. Notching the frame is relatively simple. I ran if for a while with RK 2.5" springs and 1.5" bumpstops/ 1.5" frame notch. Those that say they have 3"+ of lift with no flip and say it handles fine have most likely not driven one with a flip to see what good handling is like. Here is a pic of the frame notch. Any weld shop could do it very easy for you if you can't weld.
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post #23 of 24 Old 06-01-2015, 07:36 AM
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In my experience anything over 2.5" lift benefits from the flip an a track bar raise. As stated, you have to experince the improvement in steering & handling to understand.

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post #24 of 24 Old 06-01-2015, 08:07 AM
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The key is having the links as parallel to the ground as possible. The flatter they are the less movement you will get in the axles during articulation. The higher you mount the links will improve the roll center and you will experience less lean in cornering

Some build info here:
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