5.7 AEV - HEMI: Fan Controller Installed - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 Old 12-24-2009, 10:15 AM Thread Starter
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5.7 AEV - HEMI: Fan Controller Installed

For you guys that have installed the AEV 5.7 Hemi and don't enjoy the radiator fan running 100% all the time, I wanted to share my latest install:

Spal Programmable Fan Controller (FAN-PWM) - Version 3

I bought this fan controller off the 'bay for a little over $100. It wires into the factory water temp sender, the +12v side of the A/C clutch, and a keyed power source. It also grabs power directly from the battery and outputs a PCM signal to the factory fan to control how fast it turns.

It works and it works with the factory sender!

The controller is programmable: you set a low and high temp. The fan comes on at 50% when the low temp is reached and ramps up to 100% by the time the high temp is reached. I set the low temp to the setting where the temp gauge is right in the middle (which appears to be the water thermostat setting--my engine never runs any cooler than this). After unplugging the fan, I idled the engine a little past the mid point on the temp gauge (maybe just beyond 5/8 ths) and set that as the high temp point.

Today was the first day that I went through a fast-food drive through window for breakfast and the fan wasn't running 100%--the person on the other side of the intercom actually heard me just fine!

It's a lot quieter without the fan running full blast all the time, and it's got to be better for the alternator and battery (not to mention a slight savings in fuel consumption--that fan sucks some serious amps at 100%).

If anyone is interested in where to splice into the wiring harness, let me know and I'll dig out the exact wires I tapped--that was the hardest part of this--just figuring out which wires had what signals. It's not hard, but it took some snooping and probing and probably took about a 1/3rd of the overall installation time. Knowing which wires would probably make this about an hour's job.

The unit itself is small and fits nicely in the front part of the air-intake / battery tray. It turned out to be a clean install.

-Randy


2007 JKU (ex)Rubicon w/bolt-ons: LS3 / 6L80E • Synergy Long Arm 4.5" Lift • 40"s • Dana 60s • PSC Hydro • etc.
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post #2 of 13 Old 12-24-2009, 04:38 PM
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Great, I would like to know.
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post #3 of 13 Old 12-24-2009, 05:04 PM
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I would like to know also.
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post #4 of 13 Old 12-24-2009, 08:11 PM
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Randy,

Please share! Pics would be awesome.
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post #5 of 13 Old 12-25-2009, 12:20 AM Thread Starter
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I'll try to get some pics together along with the exact wire colors for you guys tomorrow before we head out for Christmas, but it might not happen until the weekend. I wrote a couple of these down as I was figuring it out, but I need to go back through and sort it out. I'll try to put something together to make it easy for you to duplicate what I did.

I drove the Jeep to work and back again today--the controller is working great and temps are the same as before. I think this is a worthwhile addition to work around the AEV programming.

-Randy


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post #6 of 13 Old 12-26-2009, 02:38 PM Thread Starter
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I think the pictures below will explain it all. If not, ask any questions, and I'll be happy to answer. There have been no problems related to this install--the Jeep doesn't know it's there....

Here's where I mounted the controller:


Here's where I ran the wiring harness and spliced into the engine controls:


One last thing that I didn't snap a picture of is the wiring to the factory fan. The factory fan has three connectors: two are +12 volt and the other is ground. The reason for the two +12 volt is high speed and low speed (I guess stock, it's only a three speed fan: off, low, and high). The connectors there are ground is the upper left-most connector. The +12 volt high (connect to the SPAL) is the connector below the ground. The connector to the right of ground isn't used for this install.

I think this was a worthwhile addition to the Jeep. AEV is working on a factory caliberation for the 5.7, but there is no word on when (this new caliberation will control the fan properly). I figure we could be wiating a very long time, and in the meantime, the SPAL fan controller fixes one of the few shortcomings with the engine swap.

-Randy


2007 JKU (ex)Rubicon w/bolt-ons: LS3 / 6L80E • Synergy Long Arm 4.5" Lift • 40"s • Dana 60s • PSC Hydro • etc.
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post #7 of 13 Old 12-26-2009, 08:31 PM
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Awesome. Thanks Randy. I was looking for a work around for the fan issue. It seems like you solved it.
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post #8 of 13 Old 12-26-2009, 11:42 PM
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Cool thanks! Does anyone know what the temps are supposed to be set at? Mine runs a a pretty steady 205
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post #9 of 13 Old 12-28-2009, 10:33 PM
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Thanks, I wish they would get there factory cal done.
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post #10 of 13 Old 02-17-2010, 07:21 AM
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Hey guys, I thought I'd offer a quick update on the controller/constantly running fan issue.

I spoke with Dave at AEV and he said that the controller is a suitable workaround until they can get the new programming out. All of my questions regarding the ETA of that new programming weren't answered. I hate being in the dark so I just bucked up and ordered the controller.

I wired it up last weekend per Randy's directions in this thread. It would work when the fan ran on low but as soon as it kicked in high gear it would trip the SPAL and shut it down. After digging a bit more, I see that the stock fan has a 60 amp fuse. The SPAL is rated to handle a max load of 30amps continuously. Although Randy's was running fine, his controller stopped working this weekend. We think the stock fan pulls too many amps for the SPAL to handle it.

I've ordered a SPAL fan that pulls 22amps max. Other JK's are running this fan since it can fit into the factory shroud. TKOB did a writeup on this mod and it can be found here. https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showth...light=SPAL+Fan

The 3.8 guys are having no issues with the fan so I'll give it a shot and see if it cools the hemi. The fan part number is 30102082. It's 16" (same as stock) and flows 2470 CFM. The best place to buy the fan is Universal Parts. Here's a link to the fan. http://www.universalpartsinc.com/det...?part=30102082 I could not find specs for the stock fan but this same fan works well in high horsepower applications and is intended for daily driver use. It only draws 22amps max so it will offer a lesser load than the stock fan. It's also waterproof. Here's the link to SPAL's website with the fan specifications. http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.as...&item=30102082

My fan is enroute and once I get it installed, I'll report back.

Last edited by thebigtman; 02-20-2010 at 08:50 AM. Reason: corrected amperage of stock fan
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post #11 of 13 Old 02-22-2010, 09:55 AM
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UPDATE - it works

I installed my SPAL fan and the controller was still throwing a code. I called SPAL and here's what they told me.

Since the fan pulls a lot of juice when it kicks into high, especially when you turn on the a/c and the fan goes from zero to high speed, some electrical systems cannot keep up with the power the fan wants to use. The controller interprets this as a problem with the fan and shuts everything down so it doesn't fry the controller. SPAL said that if my unit has a check mark on the back of the instructions or a silver check mark near the tape on the box that the unit was shipped in, you can turn off the fan diagnostics in the controller box.

My unit has the check mark. I turned off the fan diagnostics (hold enter down for 12 seconds and you'll see a red blink). The unit works as normal. It turns on when the a/c is used and it ramps up as it would in a normal driving situation. Since the fan diagnostics are turned off, the wire running from the SPAL controller which can be used to operate an idiot light to monitor fan usage is no longer available for use. To hook up a trouble light, use the power lead going to the fan. This will tell you when the fan turns on/off.

The SPAL fan was relatively easy to install. I didn't remove the radiator. I unbolted the radiator, slid the overflow bottle/hose off and set it aside and then removed the fan shroud. It's tight and it takes a bit of wiggling but you can remove it without disconnecting the radiator hoses.
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post #12 of 13 Old 02-22-2010, 04:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thebigtman View Post
I installed my SPAL fan and the controller was still throwing a code. I called SPAL and here's what they told me.

Since the fan pulls a lot of juice when it kicks into high, especially when you turn on the a/c and the fan goes from zero to high speed, some electrical systems cannot keep up with the power the fan wants to use. The controller interprets this as a problem with the fan and shuts everything down so it doesn't fry the controller. SPAL said that if my unit has a check mark on the back of the instructions or a silver check mark near the tape on the box that the unit was shipped in, you can turn off the fan diagnostics in the controller box.

My unit has the check mark. I turned off the fan diagnostics (hold enter down for 12 seconds and you'll see a red blink). The unit works as normal. It turns on when the a/c is used and it ramps up as it would in a normal driving situation. Since the fan diagnostics are turned off, the wire running from the SPAL controller which can be used to operate an idiot light to monitor fan usage is no longer available for use. To hook up a trouble light, use the power lead going to the fan. This will tell you when the fan turns on/off.

The SPAL fan was relatively easy to install. I didn't remove the radiator. I unbolted the radiator, slid the overflow bottle/hose off and set it aside and then removed the fan shroud. It's tight and it takes a bit of wiggling but you can remove it without disconnecting the radiator hoses.
Tim thats great news, glad you got it worked out finally


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post #13 of 13 Old 02-22-2010, 05:57 PM
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Thanks Tim! SPAL was very helpful. Anytime it's an easy fix, it's a good thing!
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