The brackets do hang down a little, but that is to get the geometry right. Any higher and you may as well keep your short arm.
Not to high jack this post, but Goat1, I do give you some respect for your talent and building abilities, however, your comment on getting the geometry right if you move the arms up is certainly off base. You made a engineering compromise to not mess with the exhaust which is fine and is your choice. Just like you chose to make it a bolt in system and orient your front upper joints with the hardware running vertical not horizontal. Those are engineerng compromises and we all make them to achieve our end goals. This is not to say Poly makes bad product because they don't and Drew has some talents for this industry.
We, at Rock Krawler chose to move the resonoator so we could push the upper control arms up as well as the lowers. This allows us to offer the best ground clearance and cross over angles in the industry as well as proper suspension geometry. We did not make any comprises on our suspension geometry to make a bolt in system or to go around the OEM exhaust routing. That was our choice. However, that choice comes with consequences as ell. The installation center must be able to weld and do a very minor exhaust modification for it to be complete. We just feel that welded in long arm mounts are a better way structuraly. We chose to use our independent three link design and offer it with a 4 link option as well.
As far as the construction of our arms, we feel they are some of the strongest, most durable arms in the industry if not the strongest. I am sure if Goat wants to post up the math for bending cross section of their 2" 0.D. 1/4 wall 1026 DOM versus our 2" solid 1020 CR he certainly can. Obviously you will want to take into account arm length as well. Our JK lowers are running 34 1/2 inches for the entire assembled length. A big part of our arms and what we do is the simplicity of them. We are a machine shop by nature. We make all of our hard parts in house as well as powder coat. We feel it is a sounder part to simply drill and tap the treads into the arm and weld on the bushing tube versus having to rely on a threaded bung, weld in the threaded, then weld on what ever is being used on the other end. To us, it just makes sense, but not alot of companies have the type of equipment we have in order to pull this off. For the do it yourselfer, welding in threaded bungs and cutting tube to length is certainly the easiest way. Most people are capable or know someone who is capable of that.
There is always a choice that has to be made when it comes to designing products. If you are going to go out there and say yours is the best, then the next question is the best for what? There is alot of good products out there as well as alot of intellegent people in the industy now. OK, well some companies are going back ward while others are moving forward, but this always happens. That is the nature of any industry.
Sorry about the high jacking of the thread, but to see people simply come on and post about their company just being the best blindly is kind of crazy. But then again, there are some ego's out there too.