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post #1 of 33 Old 12-16-2009, 06:46 AM Thread Starter
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2.5" spacer lift questions?

ok i am looking at getting a 2.5 inch spacer lift kit, when this is installed will i HAVE to install bump stops, brake line relocater etc. or are those all just recommended parts to install with the spacers?

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post #2 of 33 Old 12-16-2009, 07:25 AM Thread Starter
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to the top... anyone? need to know asap!

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post #3 of 33 Old 12-16-2009, 07:33 AM
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I haven't seen a 2.5" with bump stops, mine does not have any (rough country) Install the brake line extensions (make your own for $5) unless you want to rip out a brake line during articulation and have no brakes! (rear only with 2.5")

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post #4 of 33 Old 12-16-2009, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goodysgotacuda View Post
I haven't seen a 2.5" with bump stops, mine does not have any (rough country) Install the brake line extensions (make your own for $5) unless you want to rip out a brake line during articulation and have no brakes! (rear only with 2.5")
The TF kits (mines a BB) comes with front and rear bumpstop extensions. From what I've been trying to research though, you may not need bumptops with stock size tires, but probably do with 35's. I remember reading Goodysgotacuda's thread on his w/out bumpstops and 35's and he had some minor rubbing on articulation- I dont' remember if he trimmed anything.

I would deduce that they are not required, but watch what your jeep is doing when articulating to see rubs etc. It would also depend on if you have aftermarket wheels or are running spacers.

You will also need longer shocks or shock extensions.

You might also think about trackbar brackets or adjustables to re-center your axles.

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post #5 of 33 Old 12-16-2009, 08:56 AM
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I put the Rough Country 2.5" kit on mine a few weekends ago and the only other thing I bought beside the lift was the rear track bar bracket. So far (knocking on wood) everything has been good!
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post #6 of 33 Old 12-21-2009, 08:47 PM
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Tf kit, comes with everything you need.

-Always have bump stops unless your not disconnecting your sway bar.

-Extend the brake lines, if not, they will tear and possibly rip off.

Doesn't matter what tire size. If you put 40's on a stock rig...and flex it out, your going to slam the fenders/pinch welds/body before you have to worry about the springs.

The 2.5" kit is sweet...super easy to install and you can always resell it later on if you go bigger or want to sell your rig stock.

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Past jeep:
- 07' Rubicon 4 dr, RAMICON- 3.5" ROCK KRAWLER Coil-Over lift
- 5.38 gears- Gusseted/Trussed/inner sleeved
- 40" Pro Comp X-Terrain

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post #7 of 33 Old 12-21-2009, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Clam View Post
The TF kits (mines a BB) comes with front and rear bumpstop extensions. From what I've been trying to research though, you may not need bumptops with stock size tires, but probably do with 35's. I remember reading Goodysgotacuda's thread on his w/out bumpstops and 35's and he had some minor rubbing on articulation- I dont' remember if he trimmed anything.

I would deduce that they are not required, but watch what your jeep is doing when articulating to see rubs etc. It would also depend on if you have aftermarket wheels or are running spacers.

You will also need longer shocks or shock extensions.

You might also think about trackbar brackets or adjustables to re-center your axles.
I have extremely minimal rub on the rear pinch seam with my 35s. Requires stuffing the rears pretty well and I have not had any rubbing enough to even leave a mark on my tires. Simply audible.

Stuffs the front just fine

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post #8 of 33 Old 12-21-2009, 10:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goodysgotacuda View Post
I have extremely minimal rub on the rear pinch seam with my 35s. Requires stuffing the rears pretty well and I have not had any rubbing enough to even leave a mark on my tires. Simply audible.

Stuffs the front just fine
Thanks- I couldn't remember or find your old post. Was that with the stock flares or these new ones?

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post #9 of 33 Old 12-21-2009, 10:36 PM
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Those are cut, this is with stock flares, sway disconnect, 1.5" spacers, 2.5" coil spacers and 35" km2s




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post #10 of 33 Old 12-22-2009, 12:50 AM
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At 2.5" lift:

With a Rubi, you must have longer front swaybar links or the shorter stock links will invert forward when wheeling disconnected and cause damage. Or, you can run disconnects instead of using your electronic disconnect system.

The method to solve this is for the kit to include longer rear swaybar links so you can move the stock rears to the front.

If you want to run 35s with stock (uncut flares), you must have extended bumpstops if you fully flex your rig.

If you run longer, aftermarket links in the rear that used through bolts instead of studs, you must either run a rear trackbar relocation bracket or rear adjustable trackbar to center your rear axle. The JK swaybar runs outside the frame rails. The clearance between the rear swaybar links, the tire/wheel, the brakelines, and the fram is already minimal. If you run an offset rear axle with aftermarket swaybar links, you will experience clearance problems without centering the rear axle, less back spaced wheels, and possibly, running the rear links on the inside of the swaybar instead of the outside--particularly when the suspension is fully flexed.

The reason the TF 2.5" kit has extended bumpstops, rear brakeline relocation brackets, longer rear swaybar links, and a rear trackbar relocation bracket (in addition to spacers and shocks or shock extensions) is that they know without these items, you can run into problems.

The RC kits don't have those extra items, but you can build from there. Unfortuneately, they don't do a good job explaining this, and they guys in their call centers are typically salesman who don't drive jeeps and have never installed a lift themselves. They are selling off a script. RC sells lifts for many different vehicle makes and models, so the salesman you speak with is unlikely to have had experience installing and running RC lifts on all truck and suv models.

And, the above post about 35s with flat flares is correct, you can run 35s on stock front bumpstops. However, even with flat flares and 35s, you will want rear extended bumpstops or have to do a fair amount of trimming to avoid all rubbing.


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Last edited by planman; 12-22-2009 at 12:56 AM.
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post #11 of 33 Old 12-22-2009, 12:53 AM
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That bumpstop has another 1"-1.5" to go before it is fully compressed.

Here is a picture of a fully compressed rear bumpstop on top of an extended rear bumpstop wedge to show how far the yellow bumpstop compresses:



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post #12 of 33 Old 12-22-2009, 07:32 AM
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I know planman, thats the biggest rock I could find where I was at lol. I have hung front tires without issue. I do have extended (RE) rear links, RC track bar bracket and home made brake extensions. You are right that they don't explain that when you buy it. As far as rear rub, I have minimal when I've wheeled, I don't quite think I can fully compress my rear, wants to roll the body over (not "flexy" as some would say). The hard compression I've had rubbed the rear enough to just take the paint off the inner well, zero signs on the tire.

But this one doesn't do much good haha



This is the perfect lift setup for me right now. Cheap, effective as I can get, and not hurting anything else to the point where I need different arms, driveshafts, etc. $200 and I'm good to go until I can spend money on a real (long arm) lift.

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post #13 of 33 Old 12-22-2009, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goodysgotacuda View Post
I know planman, thats the biggest rock I could find where I was at lol. I have hung front tires without issue. I do have extended (RE) rear links, RC track bar bracket and home made brake extensions. You are right that they don't explain that when you buy it. As far as rear rub, I have minimal when I've wheeled, I don't quite think I can fully compress my rear, wants to roll the body over (not "flexy" as some would say). The hard compression I've had rubbed the rear enough to just take the paint off the inner well, zero signs on the tire.

But this one doesn't do much good haha


This is the perfect lift setup for me right now. Cheap, effective as I can get, and not hurting anything else to the point where I need different arms, driveshafts, etc. $200 and I'm good to go until I can spend money on a real (long arm) lift.

Thats how I feel too, except I went with the TF BB that came with everything I needed (including bumpstops, rear links etc.) for $300. A good price to get some hight, and not have to put the extra money in the arms etc. until I can get a "real" (complete long/medium arm) kit. Its perfect for what I do now and plan on doing for a while. I'm only running 32' MT's though and will have no chance rubbing w/ the extended bumpstops.

Good discussion and info guys.

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post #14 of 33 Old 12-22-2009, 08:23 AM
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As you can see, there is a difference of opinions, depending on kit type, wheeling style, and comfort with rubbing.

With the 2.5" lift, extend your rear brake lines. No exceptions. The redneck solution (I know, because I considered it ) would be to simply pop out the retaining clip from the frame and release the stock bracket from the frame to give you extra available length in your brake line. But then your line is just flopping around and could easily get ripped out on a rock or branch. Therefore, buy brake line extensions (the lines themselves, or the bracket extensions, or fab your own extensions--I have done this before with a $3 cabinet bracket from Home Depot).

Bumpstop extensions: take 'em or leave 'em. If you put them in and you continually pound on them, you are putting stress on your front frame crossmember--I have seen some of these crack over time, but mostly on regularly abused Jeeps with springs starting to fatigue. If you DON'T put them in and you wheel hard with 35's, you could risk ripping a flare off. Boo-hoo. I don't use them, for the most part.

Are you running your factory rims? If so, leave the stock rear links on, and spend $50 to buy another set of rear links from the dealership to use on the FRONT. If you are running aftermarket offset rims, or wheel spacers, then do what the kit says and use the kit long rear links, and put the stock rear links on the front.

You didn't ask about a rear track bar relocator or whether you were going with shock extensions or buying longer aftermarket shocks, so I won't go into that.

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post #15 of 33 Old 12-22-2009, 08:50 AM
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Our #30820 kit is a 2.5" front and 2" rear spacer kit. We don't include anything else in it, but all of our individual components from the 3" spring kit are available as upgrades (rear brakeline extend brackets, swaybar end links, trackbar relocation brackets, etc...)

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post #16 of 33 Old 12-22-2009, 09:04 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeep School View Post
As you can see, there is a difference of opinions, depending on kit type, wheeling style, and comfort with rubbing.

With the 2.5" lift, extend your rear brake lines. No exceptions. The redneck solution (I know, because I considered it ) would be to simply pop out the retaining clip from the frame and release the stock bracket from the frame to give you extra available length in your brake line. But then your line is just flopping around and could easily get ripped out on a rock or branch. Therefore, buy brake line extensions (the lines themselves, or the bracket extensions, or fab your own extensions--I have done this before with a $3 cabinet bracket from Home Depot).

Bumpstop extensions: take 'em or leave 'em. If you put them in and you continually pound on them, you are putting stress on your front frame crossmember--I have seen some of these crack over time, but mostly on regularly abused Jeeps with springs starting to fatigue. If you DON'T put them in and you wheel hard with 35's, you could risk ripping a flare off. Boo-hoo. I don't use them, for the most part.

Are you running your factory rims? If so, leave the stock rear links on, and spend $50 to buy another set of rear links from the dealership to use on the FRONT. If you are running aftermarket offset rims, or wheel spacers, then do what the kit says and use the kit long rear links, and put the stock rear links on the front.

You didn't ask about a rear track bar relocator or whether you were going with shock extensions or buying longer aftermarket shocks, so I won't go into that.
got it... had to remove the brakeline bracket last night when we put new springs in and def looks like its something i can redneck rig... i plan on running my stock rims just with bigger tires, but why would i need longer rearlinks with wheelspacers?

and please elaborate on the rear track bar relocater, as i plan on getting new shocks...

thanks!!!

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post #17 of 33 Old 12-22-2009, 09:05 AM Thread Starter
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Our #30820 kit is a 2.5" front and 2" rear spacer kit. We don't include anything else in it, but all of our individual components from the 3" spring kit are available as upgrades (rear brakeline extend brackets, swaybar end links, trackbar relocation brackets, etc...)
prices?!?

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post #18 of 33 Old 12-22-2009, 09:13 AM
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prices?!?
I can only ballpark since I manufacture and don't retail, but I'd say the swaybar end link pairs are probably $40 ish, rear trackbar bracket $20 ish, front trackbar bracket $45 ish, brakeline extensions $20 ish...

The lift kits, probably $150 or so without shocks, and $350 or so with.

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post #19 of 33 Old 12-22-2009, 09:16 AM
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So, to sum it up, one can conclude:

When doing a 2.5" lift you need:

Longer front sway-bar links
Rear brake-line extensions
Track-bar relocation bracket.

And that's it, well, besides the lift itself.

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post #20 of 33 Old 12-22-2009, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SmurfJK View Post
So, to sum it up, one can conclude:

When doing a 2.5" lift you need:

Longer front sway-bar links
Rear brake-line extensions
Track-bar relocation bracket.

And that's it, well, besides the lift itself.
Personally, I'd say the trackbar relocators are questionable at that height, especially the rear.

I've seen plenty of people throw on spacers and shocks and call it a day...and they've been fine. We did it on our first 2007 Unlimited and had no issues. We did NOT use that Jeep on the trails however, and I would question the brakelines in the rear had we done so.

Buying longer rear SB links, and moving the factory rears to the front is an excellent option, saves some money.

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post #21 of 33 Old 12-22-2009, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason @ Warrior View Post
Personally, I'd say the trackbar relocators are questionable at that height, especially the rear.

I've seen plenty of people throw on spacers and shocks and call it a day...and they've been fine. We did it on our first 2007 Unlimited and had no issues. We did NOT use that Jeep on the trails however, and I would question the brakelines in the rear had we done so.

Buying longer rear SB links, and moving the factory rears to the front is an excellent option, saves some money.

Ahh, I see.

This is an excellent thread. I'm trying to think/add together what I'd need to do a "proper" 2.5" lift.

Either coils or spacers for the springs.
brake line extensions
longer rear SB links, move rears to the front.

Ok...now who makes this stuff?

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post #22 of 33 Old 12-22-2009, 09:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SmurfJK View Post
This is an excellent thread. I'm trying to think/add together what I'd need to do a "proper" 2.5" lift.
I think that depends on what you're considering as proper.

Personally, I'd never use or recommend spacer lifts for anyone trying to do much more than fit a larger tire. To me, a spacer lift isn't much more than the suspension equivalent of a body lift...you're essentially just moving things up higher; giving exception to the ability to use a longer travel shock.

If you're looking to build a lift that you're actually using to increase travel, clear tires, and perform on the trails, I would recommend lifting with springs.

Another good point to that is that most lift springs also increase spring rate, to compensate for all those things like heavy bumpers, rock sliders, winches, and so on. Spacers leave you with the softer factory springs.

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post #23 of 33 Old 12-22-2009, 10:07 AM
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If I am not mistaken, both of you guys (smurf JK and rdhrd4) are looking at putting in 4dr Rubi springs to on your 2 drs so be careful about the additional hight that will give you if you add spacers too. I put higher rated 4dr rubi springs on my 4dr + a 2.5" spacer and it gave me over 3.5" of lift in the front. The 2drs will get more than that.

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post #24 of 33 Old 12-22-2009, 10:45 AM
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You're correct...that's why I'm asking so many questions...I hate being a pain, but sometimes you just gotta ask questions.

See, if I was to do a "proper" spacer lift, I'd probably go with the Rough Country Series II. It includes the brake line extensions, rear SB links, and spacers. I already have a set of their shocks that I bought from a local member of the "other" forum.

Clam: You're correct. I'm going from 14-14's in the front to 15-16's, and then 55's in the back to 59's. I may look into a 3/4" spacer for the front to compensate for the stock spring differences and see where that leaves me for lift height.

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post #25 of 33 Old 12-22-2009, 10:55 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by The Clam View Post
If I am not mistaken, both of you guys (smurf JK and rdhrd4) are looking at putting in 4dr Rubi springs to on your 2 drs so be careful about the additional hight that will give you if you add spacers too. I put higher rated 4dr rubi springs on my 4dr + a 2.5" spacer and it gave me over 3.5" of lift in the front. The 2drs will get more than that.
pretty much... i just put 4 dr hard top tow package (not rubi) springs on my bare bones 2 dr "X"... brought it up 1.5 inches so with the spacer lift im looking at 3.5 inches...

thus i will be purchasing longer rear SB links, moving stock rears to front, and rear track bar bracket, possibly front if yall think that is needed... as for the brakeline i will do that myself...
oh and new shocks...

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Last edited by rdhrd4; 12-22-2009 at 10:57 AM. Reason: SB, TB, shocks
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