Tie Rods - let's talk - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
View Poll Results: Which tie rods?
Poly Performance 23 56.10%
RockKrawler 15 36.59%
Other brand (specify below) 1 2.44%
bacon 4 9.76%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 41. You may not vote on this poll

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post #1 of 31 Old 12-15-2009, 08:49 PM Thread Starter
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Tie Rods - let's talk

So, I've turned two front factory tie-rods into pretzels. Time for something beefy.

Whatcha got?


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post #2 of 31 Old 12-15-2009, 09:13 PM
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Poly Performance HD tie rod! I have put it on rocks a lot and it never bent! Definitely the way to go IMO!


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post #3 of 31 Old 12-15-2009, 09:17 PM
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Poly performance or Rock Krawler. Either are much stronger than the OEM. I personally like the easy installation, adjustable design (without removing it), and the zirk fittings with the Poly Performance.

Poly Performance - Dynatrac - Currie - Goodyear - Poison Spyder - Warn - PSC - AEV - Reid Racing - Off-Road Evolution - Flowmaster - Delta - Riddler - Micky Thompson - Daystar - Skid Row - Uniden - Rebel Offroad - Firestik - Warrior Products - Viair - HiLift - ARB - Kicker - Infinity
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post #4 of 31 Old 12-15-2009, 09:19 PM
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im gonna recommend rock krawler. i have the front track bar and front lower control arms. if the tie rod is 1/2 as beefy you will be set!


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post #5 of 31 Old 12-15-2009, 09:34 PM
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have the rockkrawler

the knuckles will get torn off before something happens to the tie rod
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post #6 of 31 Old 12-15-2009, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
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added a poll


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post #7 of 31 Old 12-15-2009, 09:59 PM
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Last time I checked into this- several months ago (unless Rock Krawler has revised things), these are the reasons that I decided to chose the Poly Performance tie-rod over the Rock Krawler. JMO

Rock Krawler-

*Heavy to the point that it seems like overkill for the JK.
*Not a direct fit. It utilizes Chevy/ Moog 3/4 ton rod-ends, which must be purchased separately (at around $75 each).
*Need to ream out the OEM knuckle for installation.
*Must remove to make adjustments.
*No flex. With extreme abuse, any hard hits will be transferred to the rest of the axle assembly, knuckle, etc.
*Larger than stock diameter, so the OEM and other aftermarket clamps/ stabilizer mounts will not be compatible.


Poly Performance-

*Includes rod-ends that require no modification to the OEM knuckle to install.
*Fully adjustable at both ends without removing.
*Small amount of flex, which absorbs some of the hard hits.
*Compatible with OEM and other stabilizer clamps/ mounting hardware because it is the same diameter as stock.
*Zirk fittings on both ends.


***My Poly Performance components have taken some serious abuse and still have not needed any adjustment.

Poly Performance - Dynatrac - Currie - Goodyear - Poison Spyder - Warn - PSC - AEV - Reid Racing - Off-Road Evolution - Flowmaster - Delta - Riddler - Micky Thompson - Daystar - Skid Row - Uniden - Rebel Offroad - Firestik - Warrior Products - Viair - HiLift - ARB - Kicker - Infinity
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post #8 of 31 Old 12-15-2009, 10:07 PM
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cant go wrong with RK. bomb proof. little extra work for it but imo its worth it. its bigger for a reason, just like the fittings it uses. you should only adjust it once.


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post #9 of 31 Old 12-15-2009, 10:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StubEXrube View Post
Last time I checked into this- several months ago (unless Rock Krawler has revised things), these are the reasons that I decided to chose the Poly Performance tie-rod over the Rock Krawler. JMO

Rock Krawler-

*Heavy to the point that it seems like overkill for the JK.
*Not a direct fit. It utilizes Chevy/ Moog 3/4 ton rod-ends, which must be purchased separately (at around $75 each).
*Need to ream out the OEM knuckle for installation.
*Must remove to make adjustments.
*No flex. With extreme abuse, any hard hits will be transferred to the rest of the axle assembly, knuckle, etc.
*Larger than stock diameter, so the OEM and other aftermarket clamps/ stabilizer mounts will not be compatible.


Poly Performance-

*Includes rod-ends that require no modification to the OEM knuckle to install.
*Fully adjustable at both ends without removing.
*Small amount of flex, which absorbs some of the hard hits.
*Compatible with OEM and other stabilizer clamps/ mounting hardware because it is the same diameter as stock.
*Zirk fittings on both ends.


***My Poly Performance components have taken some serious abuse and still have not needed any adjustment.
FAIL.

The RK bar uses OEM JK rod ends.
No reaming is required.
Includes stabalizer mounting brackets.
Overkill for a JK? What does that mean?
No flex in the tie rod is a bad thing? Flexy tie rods contribute to DW.
HOW OFTEN DO YOU ADJUST YOUR TOE? Set it and forget it, because it's NOT gonna bend!

Last edited by Co4Lo; 12-15-2009 at 10:42 PM.
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post #10 of 31 Old 12-15-2009, 10:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Co4Lo View Post
FAIL.

The RK bar uses OEM JK rod ends.
No reaming is required.
Includes stabalizer mounting brackets.
Overkill for a JK? What does that mean?
No flex in the tie rod is a bad thing? Flexy tie rods contribute to DW.
HOW OFTEN DO YOU ADJUST YOUR TOE? Set is and forget it, because it's NOT gonna bend!
It used to use Moog ends, the one I have uses the moogs. You can also use the TRE's that currie uses with the original Rk design.

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post #11 of 31 Old 12-15-2009, 10:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Co4Lo View Post
FAIL.

The RK bar uses OEM JK rod ends.
No reaming is required.
Includes stabalizer mounting brackets.
Overkill for a JK? What does that mean?
No flex in the tie rod is a bad thing? Flexy tie rods contribute to DW.
HOW OFTEN DO YOU ADJUST YOUR TOE? Set is and forget it, because it's NOT gonna bend!
It didn't use OEM rod ends the last time I checked into it- you needed a Chevy 3/4 ton rod end- If this was the case, then the knuckles would have to be reamed. So they have changed it then? It is over-sized, so that's great that they include stabilizer clamps. At the time I checked, a clamp would be extra money, and again....the stock clamp wouldn't fit. Overkill means that with a vehicle as light as the JK, that the extra weight of the RK seems like more beef than necessary for most people. No flex is bad? Not for the tie-rod, but for the knuckle- then yes it can be if it causes the knuckles or other components to take the hit- fatigue/ stress/ fractures/ etc. I haven't had to adjust my toe. I was simply saying that I haven't had to adjust any of my Poly components, just as a side-note. And no I don't have any problem with DW. The Poly tie-rod doesn't flex except for a very small amount when subjected to an extreme hit....and that can be a good thing.

Like I said anyway- all JUST MY OPINION, and what I found when I was researching the product many months ago. Really no need to get so damn defensive.
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post #12 of 31 Old 12-15-2009, 10:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StubEXrube View Post
It didn't use OEM rod ends the last time I checked into it- you needed a Chevy 3/4 ton rod end- If this was the case, then the knuckles would have to be reamed. So they have changed it then? It is over-sized, so that's great that they include stabilizer clamps. At the time I checked, a clamp would be extra money, and again....the stock clamp wouldn't fit. Overkill means that with a vehicle as light as the JK, that the extra weight of the RK seems like more beef than necessary for most people. No flex is bad? Not for the tie-rod, but for the knuckle- then yes it can be if it causes the knuckles or other components to take the hit- fatigue/ stress/ fractures/ etc. I haven't had to adjust my toe. I was simply saying that I haven't had to adjust any of my Poly components, just as a side-note. And no I don't have any problem with DW. The Poly tie-rod doesn't flex except for a very small amount when subjected to an extreme hit....and that can be a good thing.

Like I said anyway- all JUST MY OPINION, and what I found when I was researching the product many months ago. Really no need to get so damn defensive.
Sorry. Wasn't trying do be a dinkbag. Just stating the facts of the current tie rod that they offer.
What does the weight of the Jk really have to do with the tie rod in this case. It should be more important to address the weight and size of the wheels and tires being used on the axle. There is no way that you can build a tie rod too beefy. And a JK isn't really all that light anyway, last I checked.
As far as shock loads, I wouldn't see that as a concern. The steering box and other links can absorb some of the shock of a rock hit.
Anyway, I think both the Poly and RK are great producst. I just wanted to clarify that the current RK kit is a simple bolt-on without mods needed.
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post #13 of 31 Old 12-15-2009, 10:48 PM
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Have the Poly unit and its holding up great thus far. It did kiss a rock and the rock lost. But that was just the first battle. Im sure it can be bent and I dont routinely try to bash it into things.

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post #14 of 31 Old 12-15-2009, 10:53 PM
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Poly now has an adapter so no more reaming!
(still have to drill though)
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/...r-p-21283.html
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post #15 of 31 Old 12-15-2009, 11:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chromedome View Post
Poly now has an adapter so no more reaming!
(still have to drill though)
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/...r-p-21283.html
Dude, that's for the drag link flip.
This thread is about tie rods.
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post #16 of 31 Old 12-15-2009, 11:36 PM
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The 3/4 ton chevy TRE's don't have to be reamed - its a 7/8-18 threaded TRE if you are curious. I think poly uses the same end actually. (they can chime in if I am wrong) At least David from Currie told me that. I found a source for the Moog for $50 and he later told me I could have gotten them from his source for a half that price.

I know that RK choose to move to the stock one because then you can carry one TRE spare and be covered with the tierod and the drag link....but you are giving up strength.

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post #17 of 31 Old 12-16-2009, 12:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Co4Lo View Post
FAIL.

The RK bar uses OEM JK rod ends.
No reaming is required.
Includes stabalizer mounting brackets.
Overkill for a JK? What does that mean?
No flex in the tie rod is a bad thing? Flexy tie rods contribute to DW.
HOW OFTEN DO YOU ADJUST YOUR TOE? Set it and forget it, because it's NOT gonna bend!
Co4Lo is correct. I vote for the Rock Krawler.
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post #18 of 31 Old 12-16-2009, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SDMF View Post
The 3/4 ton chevy TRE's don't have to be reamed - its a 7/8-18 threaded TRE if you are curious. I think poly uses the same end actually. .
Poly Does use the 3/4 ton Chevy TRE for the HD Tie Rod and Drag Link. The knuckles do not have to be reamed for the Tie Rod. The drag link will need the new adapter we sell.

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post #19 of 31 Old 12-16-2009, 09:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StubEXrube View Post
It didn't use OEM rod ends the last time I checked into it- you needed a Chevy 3/4 ton rod end- If this was the case, then the knuckles would have to be reamed. So they have changed it then? It is over-sized, so that's great that they include stabilizer clamps. At the time I checked, a clamp would be extra money, and again....the stock clamp wouldn't fit. Overkill means that with a vehicle as light as the JK, that the extra weight of the RK seems like more beef than necessary for most people. No flex is bad? Not for the tie-rod, but for the knuckle- then yes it can be if it causes the knuckles or other components to take the hit- fatigue/ stress/ fractures/ etc. I haven't had to adjust my toe. I was simply saying that I haven't had to adjust any of my Poly components, just as a side-note. And no I don't have any problem with DW. The Poly tie-rod doesn't flex except for a very small amount when subjected to an extreme hit....and that can be a good thing.

Like I said anyway- all JUST MY OPINION, and what I found when I was researching the product many months ago. Really no need to get so damn defensive.
Hmmm. Well...I just installed mine with factory style ends, from Crown. One benefit is that all the joint ends in the steering are the same now. Carry one spare all the time. Vehicle as light as the JK? Aaaaah.....Uuuummmmm. Mine is probably close to 6,000 pounds with 38.5 tires and 17" wheels....somewhere around 150lbs each. I'd like to use a steel telephone pole for my steering links.
Adjust it once and never touch it again.
The steering stablizer clamp does need to be forced on and the ubolts stretch over(if possible), however, the best way to do it, is to weld on a stud and be done with it. The RK kit comes with new u bolts.

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Last edited by PBach; 12-16-2009 at 09:52 AM.
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post #20 of 31 Old 12-16-2009, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Co4Lo View Post
Dude, that's for the drag link flip.
This thread is about tie rods.
shit you're right. They confused me by calling it a "tie rod flip adapter"
Nevermind.
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post #21 of 31 Old 12-16-2009, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chromedome View Post
shit you're right. They confused me by calling it a "tie rod flip adapter"
Nevermind.
Fixed:LINK
Sorry about the confusion.



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post #22 of 31 Old 12-16-2009, 03:06 PM
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Poly Performance.
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post #23 of 31 Old 12-16-2009, 04:51 PM
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They're both great but I voted for PolyPerformance because it's more fun to say.

I also voted for bacon, because anyone that doesn't love bacon should be shot.

I no longer work with Warrior. I am now working with The FIRM.
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post #24 of 31 Old 12-16-2009, 04:54 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason @ Warrior View Post
I also voted for bacon, because anyone that doesn't love bacon should be shot.
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post #25 of 31 Old 12-16-2009, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason @ Warrior View Post
They're both great but I voted for PolyPerformance because it's more fun to say.

I also voted for bacon, because anyone that doesn't love bacon should be shot.
I really like both of these reasons alot! Just not sure which one I like more. I will quote you on these for sure though. Too bad their company name isn't Bacon Performance.....or Poly Bacon. Either one is good.

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