Lift advice....Frankenstein-build - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 11 Old 12-09-2013, 08:40 PM Thread Starter
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Lift advice....Frankenstein-build

I am putting together a Frankenlift/jeep and looking for some thoughts. Build to include the following or already has some parts on it.
07 jeep x 2dr
Xrc front stinger with 10k winch
Xrc front armor fenders- serious tire clearance
Xrc rear fenders armor
Body armor rack
37 coopers and beadlocks
Rear tubs bumper with a custom 8k winch ( not built yet)
Also it is an auto


What do you think?
Front:
1. Rubi d-44 with sleeves/gussets with 4:88
2. Poly pro trac bracket/sway link bracket and shock brackets
3. Mopar rt hand reversed steering link( left over from a aev kit)
4. RK adjust bomb proof front trac ( left over from a swap)
5. 2- Tera flex 1 inch pucks( from level kit)
6. Teraflex 2.5 4 door coils --- suppose to give 3 inches on 2dr. ( left over from a 2.5/kit kit
7. TF 2.5 bump stops left over from a 2.5 kit
8. Front sway links from TfF level kit
9. Fox 1-3.5 shocks


Rear
1. Rubi d44 with 10 shafts 4.88 gears
2. Rock stars
3 2.5 bumps stops
4. Sway links from front
5. Fox 1-3.5 shocks
6 TF 2.5 f4 door coils/3 inch 2dr
7 1 inch TF puck from level kit
8. TF track bar mount from 4 inch kit adjustable from 2.5-4 I believe....
9 poly pro coil wedges


Here are the questions:

What do you think it will yield on total lift? 3.5? Higher? I feel with the front bumper and winch I will loose at least an inch
I also feel with the 3/16 steel front fenders it will loose another inch.
Hopefully netting about 3 to 3.5 inches.

My concerns are:

1.Will the bump stops be adequate? I'm not to concerned with tire clearance as there is a lot of room on the xrc fenders
I'm concerned with the shocks bottoming out

2.Sway bar links length
I think front should be ok due to the poly bracket extending... Concern is rear length. How do I tell if they are long enough?

control arms:
Do I leave them stock and see what happens
Do I put on the aev brackets that are left over from a previous swap?
Do I get front adjustable lowers and adjustable upper rears
Do I just bite the bullet and order all four front and rear?

Lastly
Drive shafts
Do I need them other than the front boot issue?
If so front or rear or both?


Again these are being selected because of left overs from friends builds/ extras/swaps and things.
So I would not normally put this makeshift lift together, but the price is right----and I finally get the $hit out of the shop.
Is there anything I am missing or overlooking?


Any feed back would be appreciated any suggestions?



Thanks and I look forward to hearing what you all have to say.
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post #2 of 11 Old 12-10-2013, 11:22 AM
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Build it and adjust as needed.
How in the hell is someone going to be able to answer your questions with that list of variables?

Some build info here:
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post #3 of 11 Old 12-10-2013, 12:33 PM
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How do you have leveling pucks for the rear?


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post #4 of 11 Old 12-10-2013, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
Build it and adjust as needed.
How in the hell is someone going to be able to answer your questions with that list of variables?
that's what this forum is for....why do you think I asked...lol.
As I said I needed to clean out all this crap that is piled up.....



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post #5 of 11 Old 12-10-2013, 02:47 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALASHA View Post
How do you have leveling pucks for the rear?
terra flex level kit came with 2-1 inch pucks for front, and a single 1 inch puck for rear.
It also included an extended sway link.
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post #6 of 11 Old 12-10-2013, 02:57 PM
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Forget the pucks, install the drop brackets. You'll need to do something about brake line length. The sway bars should be about level when the Jeep is sitting on level ground. I got Rubicon Express swaybar links from Bryan at 4wd.com(forum sponsor vendor). They were the cheapest I could find and work fine. You will probably be fine with your drive shafts for a while at least, but the front might rub on the front of the tranny skid. I pulled my skid and ground a "u" in it for more clearance, but I have a bit more lift than you will. Slap everything on and run it, add control arms as you can, then shafts. If you end up needing drive shafts you will need control arms to adjust pinion angle. You'll end up like the rest of us replacing crap as it breaks, just use better stuff as you replace it.

Search for planmans threads, you will learn a ton.

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post #7 of 11 Old 12-10-2013, 03:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ASSFROW View Post
Forget the pucks
Yep...


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post #8 of 11 Old 12-11-2013, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
Build it and adjust as needed.
How in the hell is someone going to be able to answer your questions with that list of variables?
Pythagorean Theorem maybe? LOL. It does not really apply; just sounds good…. Diff Eq would be better but certainly does not sound as cool.

RK
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post #9 of 11 Old 12-11-2013, 08:27 AM
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If we are going to use math to figure it out and answer his questions I guess we need the coil spring rates and the weights of the vehicle and all the accessories that is going to be added. We would also need the true compressed length of the shocks. If you don't know that stuff you are really just guessing.

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post #10 of 11 Old 12-11-2013, 01:07 PM
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If you ever make it to Billings, I might be open to swapping Rubi 44s that have 5.13s for yours with 4.88s.

However, you really want 5.38s with 37s. That puts you at just under 2500 rpm at 70 mph with an 07 automatic. 4.88s with 37s won't be great at all for highway driving. The the transmission will hunt between 3rd and 4th with any wind or hills.

2.5" front extended bumpstops are more than is needed for 37s with front flat-ish flares.

As far as the Fox 980-24-887 shocks go, you will only need about 1" front extended bumpstops to prevent them from bottoming out.

You will get more than 3" from 4 dr springs, even with the bumpers. I would not install the coil spacers. Your front driveshaft will last longer without them.

With those shocks on your automatic, eventually, the rubber boot on your front driveshaft will tear on the transmission pan lip when the suspension is flexed out. Then, you will trim the excess rubber to stop the flapping sound. Then, the driveshaft will eventually squeak when the grease spins out. Then, you will buy a new front driveshaft when the squeaking drives you nuts.

Since you have an X, you will want front swaybar quick disconnects. I prefer JKS, but other manufactures work well too. Don't use the leveling kit links.

Even with the EVO RockStars, you will only need about 1.5" rear extended bumpstops for Fox 980-24-888. With 37s and 2.5" rear extended bumpstops, you will need to do some trimming of the rear fender well pinch seams--front and rear of the fender wells.

The rear swaybar links should be long enough so that your rear swaybar is about level and normal ride height. If your shocks were longer, you would want the swaybar a few degrees above level.

With a 3" lift, you can get away with front lower adjustable control arms. If you end up at closer to 4", you will end up wanting all 8 control arms.

The rear driveshaft should last a while at 3". The closer you get to 4", the sooner you will need to buy and aftermarket rear driveshaft.

Those shocks are nice, but they are pretty short for even a 3" lift.


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post #11 of 11 Old 12-11-2013, 02:11 PM
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My 2008 X was on a 2.5" lift and I added a 3/4" spacer. After that, I needed to replace my driveshaft's and added front lower control arms and rear uppers.

I doubt you lose an 1" with the bumper and winch on Teraflex springs, I had a Rugged Ridge XHD bumper w/ stinger and a Recon 10.5K winch (synthetic line) and lost no height.

If you can take that bullet you bite, I would do it all, control arms, driveshafts etc...

These drivelines cant be beat for the money http://stomperoffroad.com/products/d...ive-shaft.html


-Dan

2008 JK X: Sold
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