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post #1 of 69 Old 12-06-2013, 06:42 PM Thread Starter
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Looking for Axle Insight

All,

I am looking for some opinions on an axle setup. I have an idea of what I want, but I am not sure if it will truly be what I need. So I am just looking at getting some advice from the guys that have upgraded the axles in the JKU.

Currently my JKU is getting a 5.3 swap at Motech's, after the swap I will be installing axles, a Metalcloak Gamechanger 3.5" lift and going to 37's. My question lies in my axles. My plan right now is to upgrade front and rear to Currie Hi Pinion Dana 60's. I love the Currie products as I had them in my TJ, for the price and I like the Hi Pinion. I have done a whole bunch of research on the Dynatrac's, Torq's (which are out because of issues I have heard about on here) and Teraflex. One of my questions is would I be able to get away with 37's and Dana 44 axles front and rear with a little beef added? I do mostly rock crawling in Texas when I go off road which is about once a month. I will not be going over 37 inch tires because I want a daily driver and the ability to tow my UTV and Camp Trailer for weekend get aways.

So what I am looking for is opinions on the 60's or in experienced minds would D44's beefed up be adequate and by adequate I mean not breaking every weekend. I don't mind spending money, I just don't want to waste money. I don't feel like I need D80's, but I want a reliable vehicle when driven like I am still making payments on it will get me home from the trails.

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post #2 of 69 Old 12-06-2013, 06:51 PM
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As long as you stay out of the skinny pedal then you should be ok.

Front: "C" gussets, truss, possibly sleeves, RCV's, LCA skids
Rear: Truss, Chromolys

I don't have the LS but have been running everything except the trusses for about 15 months now. Lots of people on here running 37's with the 44's.

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post #3 of 69 Old 12-06-2013, 06:54 PM
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Hey, you will get a shit ton of responses saying you MUST run D60s with 37s. I ran 37s on stock D44 Rubicon axles with RCVs in the front for 4 years - with a hemi conversion. Moab and CO rock crawling. My favorite trails:
Moab - Poison Spider, Golden Spike, Gold Bar Rim
CO - Spring Creek.

Google those trails for an idea of the difficulty of those trails. Enjoy that 5.3.
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post #4 of 69 Old 12-06-2013, 07:58 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Sams Misguided Child View Post
As long as you stay out of the skinny pedal then you should be ok.

Front: "C" gussets, truss, possibly sleeves, RCV's, LCA skids
Rear: Truss, Chromolys

I don't have the LS but have been running everything except the trusses for about 15 months now. Lots of people on here running 37's with the 44's.
I am not a big Skinny Pedal guy, I don't baby the Jeep, but I am not afraid to back out of a trail.

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Originally Posted by Nucleophile View Post
Hey, you will get a shit ton of responses saying you MUST run D60s with 37s. I ran 37s on stock D44 Rubicon axles with RCVs in the front for 4 years - with a hemi conversion. Moab and CO rock crawling. My favorite trails:
Moab - Poison Spider, Golden Spike, Gold Bar Rim
CO - Spring Creek.

Google those trails for an idea of the difficulty of those trails. Enjoy that 5.3.
Oh I have a familiarization with those trails. One of my main concerns is that I have to purchase an axle for the front. I have no doubt that the Dana 30 will not hold up, but would the cost difference of beefing up the rear and buying a PR44 for the front outweigh the cost of 2 Dana 60's. Thank you both for the input.

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post #5 of 69 Old 12-06-2013, 08:19 PM
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There are plenty of people who wheel 37s on dana 30s. Now clearly that is pretty risky. I think you really have to be careful with that set up. So a PR44 in the front makes sense. On my 2013 JKUR (nonHemi) I run RCVs up front and factory Tens in the rear. Yeah, I upgraded the factory rear shafts even though I ran stock rears in my hemi JKUR for years. I wanted the extra margin of error when trynig to get up some big ledge in Moab.
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post #6 of 69 Old 12-06-2013, 09:07 PM
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If you can afford and want hasle free reliable wheeling go with Dynatrac Prorock 80 full floater and 60 in the front or 44/60 hybrid with 35 splines. You will be glad in the long run.

After doing chevy conversion its very hard to skinny pedal. I am runnung 60 front and rear and blew the rear already with 6.2 ls
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post #7 of 69 Old 12-06-2013, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
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If you can afford and want hasle free reliable wheeling go with Dynatrac Prorock 80 full floater and 60 in the front or 44/60 hybrid with 35 splines. You will be glad in the long run.

After doing chevy conversion its very hard to skinny pedal. I am runnung 60 front and rear and blew the rear already with 6.2 ls
I looked at the 60/80 combination but that is more money than I want to spend and if I don't need the 80 then I don't want to spend that money...the 60/60 combo is 10K and that is about the maximum that I want to spend.

When you say blew the rear are you talking seals or broke the axle in some way?

I appreciate the input, that is exactly what I am looking for.

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post #8 of 69 Old 12-06-2013, 10:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ResQteK View Post
I looked at the 60/80 combination but that is more money than I want to spend and if I don't need the 80 then I don't want to spend that money...the 60/60 combo is 10K and that is about the maximum that I want to spend.

When you say blew the rear are you talking seals or broke the axle in some way?

I appreciate the input, that is exactly what I am looking for.
Who's 60/60 combo for 10k? I'm looking at 60's right now as well.
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post #9 of 69 Old 12-06-2013, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
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Who's 60/60 combo for 10k? I'm looking at 60's right now as well.
The Currie's come out to just under 10K according to their website when you price everything in minus shipping charges of course, the shipping will put me just over 10K.

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post #10 of 69 Old 12-06-2013, 10:30 PM
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Built D44's are more than adequate
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post #11 of 69 Old 12-06-2013, 10:48 PM
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Just talked to currie and they have alot of extra charges like setup and labor. 60/60 with manual hubs and semi float rear was $12,700 shipped.
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post #12 of 69 Old 12-06-2013, 10:50 PM
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The only setup I have found for 10k is PR44 and PR60 semi float. That is ARB in both shipped.
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post #13 of 69 Old 12-06-2013, 11:04 PM
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I have the TORQ axles just to give a base on my back round on Do's and don'ts... I came off as a jerk when i posted my build off thread. I do not have a stupid post high post count. However I have been in the Jeep game for a while these are my thoughts take them for what they may be worth. DynaTrac is a can't go wrong.. I really think RUFFSTUFF is a stand up company! every time i deal with those guy's they have me a tracking number 10 mins after my order is placed! There new 9' setup is super cool! when I was looking for my setup I almost pulled the trigger on them before I went the way I did.

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post #14 of 69 Old 12-06-2013, 11:10 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jason mac View Post
Just talked to currie and they have alot of extra charges like setup and labor. 60/60 with manual hubs and semi float rear was $12,700 shipped.
That is good to know for sure. I have not spoke with them yet, I was just pricing from their website. I figured an extra $1000, but I am not sure how it ends up being an extra $3000, that may be enough to steer me away from Currie. I don't like a price on the internet and then when you call they are that much more expensive. So I still have a lot to evaluate.

Thank you for the information.

You have me wondering how I could be off by $3000 so I went back to the website and everything in the cart came out to $9604.50
Rear Dana 60 (reusing my stock brakes)
ARB w/Currie Setup
Gears w/Currie Setup
Price: $3885.75

Front Dana 60 (reusing my knuckles which are Reid's)
ARB w/Currie Setup
Gears w/Currie Setup
Price: $5719.75

There are more expensive combinations out there, but those are not the ones that I am looking at. I have been thinking about upgrade to 1-ton brakes, manual hubs and other things, but that is not right now. That is where I got the 60/60 combo for under 10K.

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post #15 of 69 Old 12-06-2013, 11:33 PM
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60 front with JK outers? That is where the difference must be. I was quoted on 60 outers with manual hubs and brakes. If you are going 60's why not get 60 outers with manual hubs?
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post #16 of 69 Old 12-07-2013, 12:01 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jason mac View Post
60 front with JK outers? That is where the difference must be. I was quoted on 60 outers with manual hubs and brakes. If you are going 60's why not get 60 outers with manual hubs?
Like I stated I have the Reid knuckles which I was told would more than hold up. I do like the idea of the brakes, but want to maintain the Shift on the Fly 4wd. I am still researching and that is why I posted, I want the experience from others who have done this purchase, I know that there are things that I am not thinking about.

I don't want to overkill anything, but I also want to just make the one major purchase and have a solid drivetrain and suspension, so far there is only about a $2500 to $3500 difference in beefing up my 44's vs. just dropping the money on the 60's. Regardless I have to purchase a new front axle and I am not seeing a big difference in cost that keeps me from buying the 60 instead of the PR44, and if I have a 60 front I sure as heck want a 60 rear...lol. So there is just a ton that I have to consider before the purchase.

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post #17 of 69 Old 12-07-2013, 12:10 AM
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We'll I just sold my 2012 JKU and was running 38" toyo's for the last 2 years. Stock rear with 4.88 Eaton E locker and ten factory shafts. Front PR44 unlimited extreme with open diff, Reid knuckles, chromoly shafts, and poly ball joints. Not one issue, but I wheel with the mind set I have to drive home.
Just ordered a 2014 JKU and it will be running 40's so 60's are in my future for sure.
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post #18 of 69 Old 12-07-2013, 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by ResQteK View Post
Like I stated I have the Reid knuckles which I was told would more than hold up. I do like the idea of the brakes, but want to maintain the Shift on the Fly 4wd. I am still researching and that is why I posted, I want the experience from others who have done this purchase, I know that there are things that I am not thinking about.

I don't want to overkill anything, but I also want to just make the one major purchase and have a solid drivetrain and suspension, so far there is only about a $2500 to $3500 difference in beefing up my 44's vs. just dropping the money on the 60's. Regardless I have to purchase a new front axle and I am not seeing a big difference in cost that keeps me from buying the 60 instead of the PR44, and if I have a 60 front I sure as heck want a 60 rear...lol. So there is just a ton that I have to consider before the purchase.

Sounds like you have your mind made up on a 60. I am sure you want to keep the speed sensors up front? After spending the money I would flat out buy a 60 front from Dynatrac and then build a 14 bolt rear. There is nothing to the rear to justify spending 8k for a full float aftermarket axle. I think you could make a 14 bolt\60 rear come together very nice for the 4-5k mark
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post #19 of 69 Old 12-07-2013, 12:18 AM
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Don't forget to factor in the cost of new wheels if ya go 60 front


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post #20 of 69 Old 12-07-2013, 03:31 AM Thread Starter
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Don't forget to factor in the cost of new wheels if ya go 60 front
New wheels are a given, I have settled on the Hutchinson Rock Monster Bead Locks, so whatever axle combo I go with is getting new wheels.

My mind is only made up on the 60's if it is not that much of a jump cost wise. I guess I don't mind spending a little more to have some piece of mind, but if I can get away with a 44/44 setup for half the cost of the 60/60 then that is where I find my myself questioning, but from what I can see I don't think that I am that far off the price.

I come to the forums to get help thinking things through, in the end I am going to build my Jeep to the best of my ability, but I found that every mod that I do comes with unexpected expenses and that is what I am trying to cut down on.

I appreciate everyone's input and take what everyone says into account. Otherwise I wouldn't visit these forums at all.

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post #21 of 69 Old 12-07-2013, 04:32 AM
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I looked at the 60/80 combination but that is more money than I want to spend and if I don't need the 80 then I don't want to spend that money...the 60/60 combo is 10K and that is about the maximum that I want to spend.

When you say blew the rear are you talking seals or broke the axle in some way?

I appreciate the input, that is exactly what I am looking for.
Man if you have the money you just cant go wrong with Dynatrac. My Rear D60 ring and pinion blew up on me after the 6.2 conversion.
From what i have heard there isnt much difference between Dynatrac 80 and 60

What ever you get make sure u go full float with as many lugs as you can.

Mine is 5x5.5 and already broke the rear wheel doing on hwy doing 80 after a hard wheeling trip.

There are some good advise from people here so make ur decission wisley and do it right first time trust me u will enjoy it for loooong run.
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post #22 of 69 Old 12-07-2013, 04:50 AM
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I would really look at the spydertrax 9s. If my torqs don't work out in the front that's the way I am going.

Oh side note also with currie you have to spec domestic parts only if you want American made parts. (Extra cost)

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post #23 of 69 Old 12-07-2013, 05:24 AM Thread Starter
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Man if you have the money you just cant go wrong with Dynatrac. My Rear D60 ring and pinion blew up on me after the 6.2 conversion.
From what i have heard there isnt much difference between Dynatrac 80 and 60

What ever you get make sure u go full float with as many lugs as you can.

Mine is 5x5.5 and already broke the rear wheel doing on hwy doing 80 after a hard wheeling trip.

There are some good advise from people here so make ur decission wisley and do it right first time trust me u will enjoy it for loooong run.
There has been some very helpful advice here for sure. I am trying to do it right the first time without breaking the bank. I really do like the Dynatracs they are just way up there in cost.

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I would really look at the spydertrax 9s. If my torqs don't work out in the front that's the way I am going.

Oh side note also with currie you have to spec domestic parts only if you want American made parts. (Extra cost)
I have looked at the spydertrax as well and can't remember why I didn't look into them more, I want to say the cost and I am looking for a "Bolt On" axle even though I know that I may have to massage everything to Bolt it on. I love the information though. I have to weigh a ton of things before I pull the trigger on the purchase.

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post #24 of 69 Old 12-07-2013, 05:36 AM
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If money is an issue and best bang for the buck you can look at Teraflex 44 housing thicker tube diameter than other 60s. Swap all ur internals, run eaton with 35 splines.
Rear go full float rockjock 60 with arbs and 35 spline.

Or even better go with 14 Bolt, add a shave kit and tone rings and you have as string rear as 80.

Last edited by JK07; 12-07-2013 at 05:39 AM.
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post #25 of 69 Old 12-07-2013, 06:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ResQteK View Post
I have looked at the spydertrax as well and can't remember why I didn't look into them more, I want to say the cost and I am looking for a "Bolt On" axle even though I know that I may have to massage everything to Bolt it on. I love the information though. I have to weigh a ton of things before I pull the trigger on the purchase.
I am toying with building a full on truggy and it will have Spidertrax axles under it. As for "bolt on", well I think you have to consider your tubes are thicker and therefore things don't line up exactly as they did with a 44. There usually are things that have to be adjusted for.

One last thought. You put the 5.3L in because the 3.8 was a dog, right? Now your Jeep performs like it should, right? Ok, D60 up front, D60 or D80 in the rear and you just added what, 500 lbs to your rig? Maybe more. What will that do to performance? Handling? Braking? If your wheeling style allows for running D44s, why not save the money, save the weight and run them? A PR or TF 44 front is a nice set up. You could also consider a D44 Rubi take out axle. Add an Artec truss, Cs, RCVs, your Reid knuckles. That would be one tough axle and a lot less coin, weight and hassle than even a PR44 or TF 44. (Don't forget the tubes are bigger on those, so "bolt in" is somewhat a misnomer.)

Getting back to Spidertrax, I am not sure, but I would venture a guess that they will weigh less than the D60s. Possibly something to consider if weight is a factor. If you don't mind dragging another 500 lbs around, then D60/D80 is bullet proof.
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