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post #1 of 39 Old 11-28-2013, 05:41 PM Thread Starter
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New Reid knuckles

Has anyone used these to have true high steer and hubs up front?

http://www.reidracing.biz/off-road-p...-44-knuckles-2
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post #2 of 39 Old 11-28-2013, 05:52 PM
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Those won't work with Jk axles

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post #3 of 39 Old 11-28-2013, 05:57 PM Thread Starter
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I know you wouldn't be able to use the stability control or ABS by going that route with the hubs. But is it because if clearance issues running the high steer arms or are the ball joint designs different? I'm just curious if any off road only guys have used them on theirs.


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post #4 of 39 Old 11-28-2013, 06:19 PM
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The taper of the ball joints is different, not sure about the camber angle. I would think you could make it work if you find the right ball joints. What were you thinking of using for the bearings and hubs?

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post #5 of 39 Old 11-28-2013, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
The taper of the ball joints is different, not sure about the camber angle. I would think you could make it work if you find the right ball joints. What were you thinking of using for the bearings and hubs?
Even if the chamber is different they make shims that go between the knuckle and spindle to correct it. And I wonder about the exact taper differences. Maybe find a way to team them out to the right specs.

I would use junkyard parts (spindles, caliper brackets, hubs, etc) because they are plentiful and cheap. Go with f150 5x5.5 bolt pattern. Factory calipers,rotors, warn premium hubs.

I know I found one part where someone said the raise of 1.5" is all you need. Evidently that fella hasn't seen true high steer and how nice it is to completely have the steering away from the rocks.

I'm really just trying to figure out how much trouble it's going to be to use either a) old school inner C's/knuckles, b) figure out a way to flip the tierod using heims, c) new knuckle combo.

I know half the people on here would be like why not just run a this or that. Most people with these jeeps never really try new stuff and just get channeled into believing this or that is the only way.

Not saying I'm smarter or anything. The women are in the kitchen cooking thanksgiving dinner, and I'm trying to come up with a cost effective solution to getting the tierod out of the rocks.


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post #6 of 39 Old 11-28-2013, 08:06 PM
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You should be able to use an offset ball joint to adjust the camber as well. Cost effective is the key to your statement. You are looking at over $500 for the knuckles then mb $250-300 for a set of high steer arms plus ball joints and rod ends.

Then there is the unit bearing and hub set up which can cost you $1500 for an aftermarket lock out hub. And lastly you will have to come up with a brake bracket and new rotors along with a different set of wheels need to clear the hub.

Thats a lot of money and work to raise the tie rod more then 1.5"

I would rather spend that money on bigger tires and gain ground clearance all around.

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post #7 of 39 Old 11-28-2013, 08:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iwaxmyjimmy View Post
Most people with these jeeps never really try new stuff and just get channeled into believing this or that is the only way.
Very...very true.

I tried to bring up a Magnum V8 swap, most are just baffled that Mopar made a V8 that wasn't a Hemi and that was followed with how dare I consider a non-Hemi. If I had another beater, I would venture further with that...just not yet.

I'd love to find an alternative to manual hubs instead of the Spyntecs...dooo it.

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post #8 of 39 Old 11-28-2013, 08:53 PM
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I emailed somebody about them a while back. Basically said that all of the specs were different. balljoint taper, distance from upper and lower cs, brake mounting point, etc.

I'm all about thinking outside the box, but it seemed like an expensive headache.

There are a few thread on pirate about fabricated knuckles. Might be another option that would allow you to reuse the factory jk brakes and unit bearings.



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post #9 of 39 Old 11-28-2013, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
You should be able to use an offset ball joint to adjust the camber as well. Cost effective is the key to your statement. You are looking at over $500 for the knuckles then mb $250-300 for a set of high steer arms plus ball joints and rod ends.
Thing about that is you're not going to change ballpoints, they are in the housing. High steer arms maybe $150 though. The different stub shafts would cost a good little bit, more than likely would be a custom job.

Quote:
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Then there is the unit bearing and hub set up which can cost you $1500 for an aftermarket lock out hub. And lastly you will have to come up with a brake bracket and new rotors along with a different set of wheels need to clear the hub.
Well the brake brackets are easy, junkyard or partsmike.com fabricate them. Wheels probably source from a local guy with either and older f150 or CJ.



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Thats a lot of money and work to raise the tie rod more then 1.5"

I would rather spend that money on bigger tires and gain ground clearance all around.
Yeah those knuckle pretty much seem like a waste. And you only need to go so big of a tire for your wheel base.



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post #10 of 39 Old 11-28-2013, 09:00 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by tiltz View Post
I emailed somebody about them a while back. Basically said that all of the specs were different. balljoint taper, distance from upper and lower cs, brake mounting point, etc.

I'm all about thinking outside the box, but it seemed like an expensive headache.

There are a few thread on pirate about fabricated knuckles. Might be another option that would allow you to reuse the factory jk brakes and unit bearings.



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Yeah, I see what you mean now. I really just want true high steer ya know what I mean? Not really a fan of the unit bearings either, I'm kinda old school lol.


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post #11 of 39 Old 11-29-2013, 10:06 AM Thread Starter
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after reading up, I think with rod ends I'm going to drill out the draglink hole, mount the tie rod and draglink with heim joints and just have the tie rod go from draglink hole to the driver side on top of the knuckle.


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post #12 of 39 Old 11-29-2013, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iwaxmyjimmy View Post
after reading up, I think with rod ends I'm going to drill out the draglink hole, mount the tie rod and draglink with heim joints and just have the tie rod go from draglink hole to the driver side on top of the knuckle.


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You'll have two different Ackermann percentages depending on which way you turn doing that.

You'll also have to raise the track bar if you're going higher than it is now to keep out the bump steer.

And if you're going higher than a normal flipped drag link, you'll have to watch the drag link hitting the frame and either bump stop, or notch the frame accordingly.


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post #13 of 39 Old 11-29-2013, 11:23 AM
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It sounds like a pretty poor solution to me as well.

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post #14 of 39 Old 11-29-2013, 11:38 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goodysgotacuda View Post
You'll have two different Ackermann percentages depending on which way you turn doing that.

You'll also have to raise the track bar if you're going higher than it is now to keep out the bump steer.

And if you're going higher than a normal flipped drag link, you'll have to watch the drag link hitting the frame and either bump stop, or notch the frame accordingly.


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Well what sparked this idea was the falken tire ad with the fender less jk. If you look at the steering setup, drag link on top of the draglink hole, tie rod on the bottom of it and going to the top of the driver side tie rod. With hydro assist going to the tie rod hole on the passenger side. I would upload a picture of it but I've reached my max.


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post #15 of 39 Old 11-29-2013, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iwaxmyjimmy View Post
Well what sparked this idea was the falken tire ad with the fender less jk. If you look at the steering setup, drag link on top of the draglink hole, tie rod on the bottom of it and going to the top of the driver side tie rod. With hydro assist going to the tie rod hole on the passenger side. I would upload a picture of it but I've reached my max.


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That I'd assume it's not a stock geometry JK knuckle they're playing with.


You can do some stuff like this Off Road Only setup, which is a bit sketchy for me.



https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11803

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post #16 of 39 Old 11-29-2013, 11:52 AM
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Another option is cutting the c off and running an older d-44 style c so you can run the flat top knuckles

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post #17 of 39 Old 11-29-2013, 11:53 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goodysgotacuda View Post
That I'd assume it's not a stock geometry JK knuckle they're playing with.


You can do some stuff like this Off Road Only setup, which is a bit sketchy for me.



https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11803


Yeah that does look sketchy, and it does appear to be a dynatrac 60 up front but it's using a jk style knuckle because of where the ball joints are pressed into the inner C's


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post #18 of 39 Old 11-29-2013, 11:54 AM
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Another option that would be free would be to work on your wheeling skills so you are not bashing your tie rod.

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post #19 of 39 Old 11-29-2013, 12:00 PM Thread Starter
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Another option that would be free would be to work on your wheeling skills so you are not bashing your tie rod.
I'm sure it's not the wheeling skills, granted I could improve, but running stock rubi tires it's pretty low in the weeds. Hell no matter what the jk tie rod is in the weeds.


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post #20 of 39 Old 11-29-2013, 12:06 PM Thread Starter
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New Reid knuckles

Here is what I was looking at. Sorry it's a zoomed in screen shot of JP mag


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post #21 of 39 Old 11-29-2013, 12:20 PM
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That is an interesting set up but it is using a pro rock 60 with flat top knuckles.

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post #22 of 39 Old 11-29-2013, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
That is an interesting set up but it is using a pro rock 60 with flat top knuckles.
Well I can't truly tell those are flat tops. Do the right hand drive JKs have the draglink going to the driverside?


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post #23 of 39 Old 11-29-2013, 01:10 PM Thread Starter
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I'm not even 100% those are flat top knuckles because they look to be cast. I'll try and find some better pictures of it.


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post #24 of 39 Old 11-29-2013, 01:11 PM
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A right hand drive would have the drag link and track bar reversed.

Look up the recoil, that is the jeep you are looking at. It has pro rock 60's on it with flat top knuckles.

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post #25 of 39 Old 11-29-2013, 01:30 PM
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here is the link.
http://www.recoilweb.com/preview-tra...ler-32619.html

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