Just went from AEV 3.5 w/ 35 MTRs to 4.5 w/ 37s - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 27 Old 11-16-2013, 04:23 AM Thread Starter
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Just went from AEV 3.5 w/ 35 MTRs to 4.5 w/ 37s

Hey folks...

I just made the jump this week from an AEV 3.5" lift with 35" goodyear MTR/k's to the AEV 4.5" lift with 37" MTR's and am pleased with the results and thought I would share.

It has only been on the road a short time so far and not off road yet. On the road, there is no rubbing at all with either the 35" or the 37" tires with their respective lifts and I am running stock 2013 rubicon wheels with teraflex 1.25" wheel spacers. With the 35's on the 3.5" lift, there was no rubbing at all off road and I have been fully flexed out here on the northern Cali granite. If the 37s rub at all, I will try the rugged ridge 1.5" spacers. With the 1.25 spacers, the tread of both tires (the outer edge of the outermost tire lug) is just under the outermost edge of the stock fenders.

On the road, both setups are great. The taller lift and tires actually seem to feel more solid and planted and the jeep more stable and comfortable. Off road, the 35" setup is fully cable and I've wheeled it fully packed with gear and kids in tow. While it has not been back off road yet, I expect great results with the 37s.

I did this to gain the clearance.

Oh, and I am still running the stock 4.10 gears with a manual trans 3.6l. Currently running unprotected at the axle and may leave it that way and just let it bend then do a housing and re-gear all at once. The pentastar with AirRaid and Borla spins the 37s pretty well,without a regear. We have some decent flat highway around here so I can get it into 6th for stretches.

Best ride in both cases has been @~28psi tire pressure.
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post #2 of 27 Old 11-16-2013, 04:34 AM
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Question: Is it rubbing against the front bumper when you turn?

I had to replace my stock front bumper with a stubby when I went to 37's. The stubby looks much better IMHO. But I went with only 2.5" of lift, so at 4.5" you may have better clearance than I have.

The extra inch of height from the 37's will make clearance over obstacles easier. I am happy I went o 37's.

Enjoy! And post some pics when you get a chance!

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post #3 of 27 Old 11-16-2013, 04:56 AM Thread Starter
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Pardon me. Stock rear bumper and front is just a winch plate and pure jeep light bar, something like their bare bonez but with someone else's winch plate and d ring plates.

Pardon me. Rubi rails have been removed now so I forgot about them. They rubbed at full flex with 35s. I also have a 2013 with the cut pinch seam from the factory.

I may cut fenders and go back down to 3.5".

What beyond pinch seam, rails and fenders did you have to do to get the 37s on?

Will post some pics soon. I killed my camera phone today.
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post #4 of 27 Old 11-16-2013, 03:51 PM
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Wow it sounds like you actually enjoy your AEV lift, go figure!!!
Good for you!

Now lets see what 2k2 has to say
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post #5 of 27 Old 11-16-2013, 04:31 PM
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One thing....

Straight axles are worth a lot more than bent ones.
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post #6 of 27 Old 11-16-2013, 09:26 PM Thread Starter
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Wow it sounds like you actually enjoy your AEV lift, go figure!!!
Good for you!

Now lets see what 2k2 has to say
Yeah, is that wrong? What are you implying?
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post #7 of 27 Old 11-16-2013, 09:29 PM
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Have fun off road, aired down and flexing you are going to do some good rubbing on the frame and control arms. Be mindful of disconnecting the sway bar as you might put it right thru a sidewall.

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post #8 of 27 Old 11-16-2013, 09:32 PM Thread Starter
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One thing....

Straight axles are worth a lot more than bent ones.
Yup, agreed and something I have contemplated. I don't want tp replace the whole housing right away and I do not really want to invest much beyond c gussets in the stock axle.
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post #9 of 27 Old 11-16-2013, 09:48 PM Thread Starter
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Have fun off road, aired down and flexing you are going to do some good rubbing on the frame and control arms. Be mindful of disconnecting the sway bar as you might put it right thru a sidewall.
Thanks. I have. Airing down to 10 on the stock rims is usually what I do unless I just don't have the time. And the AEV lift has been fully flexed and has seen granite rocks. it was fine - no rubbing at all with the 3.5" lift and 35" tires. Jury is still out WRT the 37" tires and 4.5" lift, though, but I expect good results. If not, I can space out the wheels a tad more and cutting my stock fenders is on the agenda as well.

Amazingly, I have managed to never puncture a tire. Dumb luck or perhaps the electronic disconnect. You tell me. But I have totally heard that about the AEV liftsm though...
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post #10 of 27 Old 11-17-2013, 01:01 PM
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With the addition of 37's, I have sleeved the front axle and added C-gussets, wheel spacers (used to rub against the LCA), added stubby front bumper (tires rubbed stock front bumper), trimmed the rear pinch seam, trimmed the Rubi rock rails, AEV ProCal to recalibrate for the tire size/different gears (5.38's...3.8L & auto)/and disabled the TPMS. Also added a PSC Rock Brawler rear bumper and tire carrier to carry the 37" spare.

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post #11 of 27 Old 11-17-2013, 03:54 PM
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This is pretty much the same setup I am running/gonna run. I have the 3.5" AEV on a 2012 JKU Rubi, 3.6/manual. Ill eventually run 37" Falken ATs, still deployed overseas right now and it sits in the garage in TN currently. Only difference is I run Metal cloak highlines in the front, rear armor with dovetail flares and MC corner exo with leds on the back. I already tubing modified/trimmed the stock sliders for the rear to clear the tires. I have also already tubed/gusseted/armored the front axle in anticipation of larger tires.

Not to hijack the thread, but I have a couple questions, since you are a good source of info with the same setup (and no, I didnt use the search, I have a whopping 28k internet speed out here, so feel free to flame away):

How bad is it with 37's and no regear? I was contemplating a regear, but my rig is strictly a poser DD, I know more gear is always gooder but I have two 4runners that get towed to the trails for serious offroad duty. I *may* take it on a expedition type offroad trip, but mild at most. I was considering 4.88's but may be convinced to go 5.13s. Is it tolerable on the street with the /3.6/manual combo? Or does the slightest incline require a downshift?

Done any practice flexing yet? I also ran the MC inner fenders and I have 1.5" spacers already installed, so I would hope 37's wouldnt rub after I trim the pinch seam on the rear (just never got time...). Im curious to anything more that needs trimmed?

Lastly, and kinda off topic, are you happy with the way your AEV lift is performing? I sense the bitterness around some comments here, is it just a case of "if your lift aint THIS, then it is shit..." type stuff, or are there *actual* problems? I primarily wanted to kill the front end nose dive on hard braking with AEV (and succeeded), and couldnt justify a $4k longarm lift when I have another rig on tons with a LA setup, especially on a DD. Any issues I should know about?
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post #12 of 27 Old 11-17-2013, 06:55 PM
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This is pretty much the same setup I am running/gonna run. I have the 3.5" AEV on a 2012 JKU Rubi, 3.6/manual. Ill eventually run 37" Falken ATs, still deployed overseas right now and it sits in the garage in TN currently. Only difference is I run Metal cloak highlines in the front, rear armor with dovetail flares and MC corner exo with leds on the back. I already tubing modified/trimmed the stock sliders for the rear to clear the tires. I have also already tubed/gusseted/armored the front axle in anticipation of larger tires.

Not to hijack the thread, but I have a couple questions, since you are a good source of info with the same setup (and no, I didnt use the search, I have a whopping 28k internet speed out here, so feel free to flame away):

How bad is it with 37's and no regear? I was contemplating a regear, but my rig is strictly a poser DD, I know more gear is always gooder but I have two 4runners that get towed to the trails for serious offroad duty. I *may* take it on a expedition type offroad trip, but mild at most. I was considering 4.88's but may be convinced to go 5.13s. Is it tolerable on the street with the /3.6/manual combo? Or does the slightest incline require a downshift?

Done any practice flexing yet? I also ran the MC inner fenders and I have 1.5" spacers already installed, so I would hope 37's wouldnt rub after I trim the pinch seam on the rear (just never got time...). Im curious to anything more that needs trimmed?

Lastly, and kinda off topic, are you happy with the way your AEV lift is performing? I sense the bitterness around some comments here, is it just a case of "if your lift aint THIS, then it is shit..." type stuff, or are there *actual* problems? I primarily wanted to kill the front end nose dive on hard braking with AEV (and succeeded), and couldnt justify a $4k longarm lift when I have another rig on tons with a LA setup, especially on a DD. Any issues I should know about?
You have the 3.6L, and I have a 3.8L with a RIPP SC on it. I had the SC on before I lifted and regeared, so our engines would be very similar in performance. (actually, a SC'd 3.8 is more power than a stock 3.6.)

But, with a SC'd 3.8 and 4.10 gears...it sucked on 37's. I'd recommend a regear, even on the 3.6L. You won't have to go as deep as I did (5.38's). Maybe 4.88's and you'll be happy.

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post #13 of 27 Old 11-17-2013, 10:58 PM
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Gonna chime in on this one because I have a similar setup but a little different perspective than some, perhaps. AEV 4.5, 37" MTR/Ks, on MB72 wheels (-6mm offset =~4.013" BS), no spacers, on a 2012 JKUR (3.6, auto). Did have rubbing on the rear pinch seam and trimmed it, but none on factory front bumper. Did have to remove the lower splash guard because of rubbing though. Shortened the Rubi-Rails by about 1.5" in rear to eliminate rubbing there. With those changes, all was good functionally. No LCA rubs at all.

OEM gears were 4.10s, which worked surprisingly well with the 37s. Particularly on the highway, though, it became obvious that the RPM range it was running in was not ideal. Geared down to 5.13s and couldn't be happier on or off road.

Some do trash the AEV lift unfairly, and some do have issues with it. From my observation, it seems like if a person uses the vehicle in a way that is consistent with AEV's design criteria, they have a good product. It is not a hardcore rock crawling suspension, but mine did great on Steel Bender and Fins N Things in Moab. It is an expedition suspension and I found on my trip to Moab that it likes weight. From my discussion with the AEV tech guys, it is designed around a specific set of add-ons so if a person is shooting for a lightweight Jeep, he's probably not going to like the ride of the AEV suspension. But once it is loaded up, it's like butter. And even loaded it remains pretty flexy but stable.

I'll probably get labeled an AEV "fan boy," but I'm not. I just recognize that no single product or design can meet everyone's needs. For what I'm doing now, the AEV works, and works well. If I were doing more hardcore rock crawling, and doing it regularly, I might consider a Rock Krawler system.

If you're in flat ground, driving a poser, etc., and if you have a manual trans, stick with the 4.10s until you decide you have a need for something different. You'll be fine with the 3.6, and the understanding that you're driving a Jeep, not a race car.

I've obviously made some other upgrades to mine, which I'll not go into here -- you can read my build thread if you like (link in sig) -- and I do have plans for some axle strengthening in the future, but even without any work to the D44s, with a reasonably conservative approach to your off-road driving style, you could be fine for quite a while.

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post #14 of 27 Old 11-18-2013, 01:00 AM Thread Starter
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With the 3.6 motor, 4.10 axles and the manual transmission, I would call this very livable. For example, I think I could live this way on and off road until I bend an axle housing. Then I'll beef it up and regear.

We do have flat highway runs around here so I can cruise at 2500 RPM for long periods without down shifting.

Offroad, with the transfer case in low, I am not sure yet how much I will notice. 35s on the 4.10s was fine off road.

It's really not clear to me why the AEV lift is or should be any less capable off road. I would still like to see this spelled out in detail because I think that it is complete BS.

That said, I had no problem going an additional lift to 4.5" to compensate for the drop brackets.
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post #15 of 27 Old 11-18-2013, 08:15 PM
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Slam one of those stock control arms on a rock and watch it bend or catch a bracket. That's about where all the complaints come from.

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post #16 of 27 Old 11-18-2013, 11:28 PM
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Slam one of those stock control arms on a rock and watch it bend or catch a bracket. That's about where all the complaints come from.
This. Which also means that you can't adjust the rear CAs to recenter the tire in the wheel well. Also, no adjustment on the OEM trac bars to recenter the axles after the lift, plus OEM steering parts that will wear out sooner (or bend/break) from the additional stresses of the bigger tires. Etc., etc.

Again, the AEV lift is a good solution for the correct application. But it's not going to be as durable nor as functional for extreme use, and it does have its limitations compared to some other systems on the market.

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post #17 of 27 Old 11-19-2013, 04:27 AM Thread Starter
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Slam one of those stock control arms on a rock and watch it bend or catch a bracket. That's about where all the complaints come from.
Have you or anyone else actually bent a control arm? While accounts of bent control arms are out there for the older models, there seems to be a lack of incidents to support this claim on a JK. Anyway, the stock arms seem to be lighter than aftermarket and with everyone replacing their arms, stock ones should be readily available at low cost.

I've been on the rocks and have not hit a control arm yet. Scuffed the AEV bracket but not an arm. Probably just a matter of time but even then it doesn't seem to be the issue that some folks make it out to be.

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post #18 of 27 Old 11-19-2013, 04:38 AM Thread Starter
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This. Which also means that you can't adjust the rear CAs to recenter the tire in the wheel well. Also, no adjustment on the OEM trac bars to recenter the axles after the lift, plus OEM steering parts that will wear out sooner (or bend/break) from the additional stresses of the bigger tires. Etc., etc.

Again, the AEV lift is a good solution for the correct application. But it's not going to be as durable nor as functional for extreme use, and it does have its limitations compared to some other systems on the market.
Yo.... Did not catch that you are in Livermore. Sounds like we are just separated by the rural part of Tassajara road.

Anyway, I'm an ex mechanic and do all of my own work. I'm not buying into the bent control arm thing. At least not yet.

As you said,the OEM steering parts will wear out sooner because of the tires. This has nothing to do, with either the AEV lift or the stock control arms that have been brought up and these are issues that any kit will see given the same tire size.

At first, I was caught up in he wheelbase argument but it has not proven to be an issue beyond an asthetic one. I still might consider installing longer non-adjustable stock style arms if they are available. For me, I would do it for the added departure angle.

Don't get me wrong..... If I can find reason to justify the expense, I would
buy them. Right now, I'm just not seeing it.
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post #19 of 27 Old 11-19-2013, 04:57 AM Thread Starter
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BTW... I have a January production so it was one of the first to see the cut pinch seam from the factory.
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post #20 of 27 Old 11-19-2013, 07:09 AM
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Have you or anyone else actually bent a control arm? While accounts of bent control arms are out there for the older models, there seems to be a lack of incidents to support this claim on a JK. Anyway, the stock arms seem to be lighter than aftermarket and with everyone replacing their arms, stock ones should be readily available at low cost.

I've been on the rocks and have not hit a control arm yet. Scuffed the AEV bracket but not an arm. Probably just a matter of time but even then it doesn't seem to be the issue that some folks make it out to be.
I bent my rear drivers LCA at Rausch Creek....they are pretty weak


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post #21 of 27 Old 11-19-2013, 07:52 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I did find a posting or two about bending a round rear control arm. Still seems like a cheap, easy repair if you go OEM used in decent condition.

Are there stronger rear arms available in fixed length with OE style bushings?
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post #22 of 27 Old 11-19-2013, 02:04 PM
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Yeah, I did find a posting or two about bending a round rear control arm. Still seems like a cheap, easy repair if you go OEM used in decent condition.

Are there stronger rear arms available in fixed length with OE style bushings?
Cheap and easy repair until you add in the cost of the tow to get home. That usually makes the after market arms look like cheap insurance.

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post #23 of 27 Old 11-19-2013, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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Cheap and easy repair until you add in the cost of the tow to get home. That usually makes the after market arms look like cheap insurance.
Has anyone actually seen or heard of a real world example of how a bent control arm can disable a vehicle such that towing is required? If they are really that vulrable, you could always carry spares in your tool bag or strap them to a roll bar and replace htm only once they become bent.

I have an example of a bent connecting rod where my Mazda b4000 (rebadged ford ranger) ingested water through its very low mounted intake snorkel behind the front bumper. Now that disabled the vehicle way up in the mountains in the middle of a stream and required expensive towing by a 4x4 towing rig. That and I bought nations hamburgers for the driver on the way down in Arnold.
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post #24 of 27 Old 11-19-2013, 07:17 PM
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Have you or anyone else actually bent a control arm? While accounts of bent control arms are out there for the older models, there seems to be a lack of incidents to support this claim on a JK. Anyway, the stock arms seem to be lighter than aftermarket and with everyone replacing their arms, stock ones should be readily available at low cost.

I've been on the rocks and have not hit a control arm yet. Scuffed the AEV bracket but not an arm. Probably just a matter of time but even then it doesn't seem to be the issue that some folks make it out to be.
Yup you can get all the stock arms you want. I am glad you have been on the rocks and have no issues. I hope you don't.

I have not bent one because I swapped them out.

Peoples definition of wheeling vary...

FYI I ran aev coils and brackets for a while. Loved their ride on road, just never got them off road before swapping it all out.

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post #25 of 27 Old 11-20-2013, 12:34 AM Thread Starter
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Yup you can get all the stock arms you want. I am glad you have been on the rocks and have no issues. I hope you don't.

I have not bent one because I swapped them out.

Peoples definition of wheeling vary...

FYI I ran aev coils and brackets for a while. Loved their ride on road, just never got them off road before swapping it all out.
So why did you remove the AEV lift after never having it off road?

Sure, swapping out the arms *might* be the reason you have not bent arm.
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