Is the rear 44 on a Rubi suffer the same fate as the front? - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 18 Old 11-11-2013, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
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Is the rear 44 on a Rubi suffer the same fate as the front?

How prone to bending is the rear 44 on a Rubi? Compared to the front?

Just curious. I am gathering info and plans right now as some of you may have seen my dream to run the Baja and a few Jeepspeed races in my JKU.

I Am planning my first move for after Christmas. I am thinking about getting new axles first to build on a Solid foundation. I def am doing a pro rock 44 up front With the thick tubing and PR ball joints. I am just trying to figure out if I am doing housings only and using my guts...

Also how are the Rubi lockers? I am leaning on selling my Rubi axles with 4k miles on them and just buying two new ones and being done with it.

I just don't want to be out in the desert and wishing I would have spent more money....


I think selling axles and buying a D44/D60 combo. I am not in a hurry, just want to have a good foundation.

Thanks!

Last edited by Milkman3371; 11-11-2013 at 07:20 PM.
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post #2 of 18 Old 11-11-2013, 07:36 PM
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If you're planing on competition use, get rid of the factory axles while they are worth something. IMO.

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post #3 of 18 Old 11-11-2013, 07:42 PM
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You need different axles for sure with this intended purpose.

Rear : Currie F9 would be killer

http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/tr...wrangler-axle/
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post #4 of 18 Old 11-11-2013, 08:56 PM
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I would pass over the pro rock 44 and look at least at the hybrid 44/60 axle with stronger lock out hubs and a wider then stock width. You will get bigger brakes as well with that set up. Do a pro rock 60 or 80 in the rear if you are serious about racing. You could also look at some of the 9" & 14 bolt axles out there for quick gear ratio changes.

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post #5 of 18 Old 11-11-2013, 09:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4x4 View Post
You need different axles for sure with this intended purpose.

Rear : Currie F9 would be killer

http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/tr...wrangler-axle/
wish that came full float

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post #6 of 18 Old 11-12-2013, 12:56 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies, I was thinking about the 44/60 hybrid.

This also only has to make a race or two. I want it still to be street able.

I may end up with that 44/60 and the rear 60
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post #7 of 18 Old 11-12-2013, 01:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Milkman3371 View Post
Thanks for the replies, I was thinking about the 44/60 hybrid.

This also only has to make a race or two. I want it still to be street able.

I may end up with that 44/60 and the rear 60
Bigger axles will not have any negative impact on streetability other than added weight...


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post #8 of 18 Old 11-13-2013, 05:36 AM Thread Starter
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I was only stating that on the width. Someone suggested go wider. We have flare laws in Pa
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post #9 of 18 Old 11-13-2013, 08:04 AM
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It is going to come down to your wheel choice (back spacing) and axle width. If you are going to run a 37"x12.5" tire you are going to be wider then the fenders. If you don't go wide you are going to go really tall with the lift and lots of bump stop in order to maintain full steering. Even with 6"+ of lift you will be hitting your lower control arms at full lock. The only other way would be a complete custom front suspension with some pretty good notches in the frame.

If fender laws are an issue for you don't plan on running a big wide tire when you are on the road.

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post #10 of 18 Old 11-13-2013, 08:19 AM
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I wouldn't look at any axle that wasn't full-float if I was planning on racing.
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post #11 of 18 Old 11-13-2013, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Milkman3371 View Post
I was only stating that on the width. Someone suggested go wider. We have flare laws in Pa
Wide crusher flares will be available soon from psc but the rear will still only be available in 4" wide version. By a set and make the rear flares 7" to satisfy the law. On factory width axles with 9" wide wheels with 4.5" bs will fit under the flares and the 37"s won't rub on the frame.

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post #12 of 18 Old 11-13-2013, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bthomas View Post
I wouldn't look at any axle that wasn't full-float if I was planning on racing.
This right here.......

I've seen non floating pull out and @$$ end hit the ground in desert racing...watched a ford bronco do the axle boogie....it pulls out he turns into it putting it back it floats out he turns back Into it...tried to make pits but ended up doing a swap on course anywase....

Full floater axle for sure, blow up a axle the thing still stays together....remove axles and shards continue to run with locker on blow other axle go 4 shell drive remove rear drive shaft and continue to go.....
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post #13 of 18 Old 11-13-2013, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks I have an email in to d-trac to start discussing!
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post #14 of 18 Old 11-13-2013, 09:34 PM
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I assume you plan on entering the 1700 class? There are limits on track width and axles in general. I am sure you probably verified that you could install the axles you want I just bring it up in case you didn't. It would suck to spend a bunch of money and find out you built yourself out of class. Some of the rules are little ambiguous and easily misinterpreted. Good luck!
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post #15 of 18 Old 11-13-2013, 10:24 PM
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Ford 9" front and rear, with 40 spline shafts, lighter than a any one ton and stronger, that's if u r want to really Baja


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post #16 of 18 Old 11-14-2013, 01:19 AM Thread Starter
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I have looked at both classes. I think the wheelbase issue with the jk is a problem though for 1700. If I read the email correctly I think I may have to enter 3700.

I know 3700 has faster vehicles. I just want to be able to enter. I want to run baja. But if for some reason I can't (for what ever reason) I may try the Reno to Vegas run. I think the 1700 is limited to 33s and the 3700 is 37s

I am waiting on a rule book via mail.

Again I want to build this so I can do this once or twice. Then have a heck if a built jk once it's over!
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post #17 of 18 Old 11-14-2013, 06:56 AM
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Straight from the 1700 rules:
The JeepSpeed Challenge is for Jeep Cherokee XJ models produced from 1984 through 2001with stock wheel base +/- 2" = 103.4", Wrangler TJ 2 door max wheelbase 103.4", Wrangler JK 2 door stock wheelbase +/- 2",Grand Cherokee ZJ and WJ stock wheelbase +/- 2", and any other 6 cylinder Jeep conforming to SCORE International Stock Mini rules with maximum wheelbase vehicle allowed Jeep Grand Cherokee WK series.

So with the JKU you would have to go to 3700. And here is the width rules for 3700:
Maximum overall track width 85" measured at the widest point of each tire. Maximums wheelbase is 116 inches but no more than +/- 6 inches variance from originally equipped.
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post #18 of 18 Old 11-14-2013, 07:39 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks man

I thought I read that somewhere.
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