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post #1 of 56 Old 11-11-2013, 09:35 AM Thread Starter
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building my own tie rod

Had another mishap with my tie rod and its starting to look pretty shitty.

i run 15s and cant get the Ruff Stuff TREs to clear the rims but i think the factory links stick out far enough that i could reuse them with a length of dom in between.

anyone know if the factory TREs are left and right threaded if so i need jam nuts and weld in bungs any one know the sizes of these?
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post #2 of 56 Old 11-11-2013, 09:43 AM
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Looked into this before.

Nobody makes a threaded bung for OEM tie rod thread [metric, forgot the size off the top of my head].
They are both RH thread.
Nobody makes jam nuts either, that I could find.

I did buy a tap for the OEM tie rods [for sale ] though, if you wanted to tap your own DOM and just get a shop to whip up some jam nuts for you. PM me about the tap if you're interested, it's brand new, [and wasn't cheap!]

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post #3 of 56 Old 11-11-2013, 09:44 AM
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I'm fairly certain the passenger side TRE on the factory link is fixed to the Tie Rod. I don't know if you can buy a threaded right and left side.

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post #4 of 56 Old 11-11-2013, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by JKred07 View Post
I'm fairly certain the passenger side TRE on the factory link is fixed to the Tie Rod. I don't know if you can buy a threaded right and left side.
It'll come out, you can also slit the tie rod and back it out [did that too] It's threaded, but just sorta crimped in there snug if I remember right.

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post #5 of 56 Old 11-11-2013, 09:56 AM Thread Starter
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would i need a jamnut or could i do a clamp like the oem side has?
sucks they are both right handers. means id have to pull the joint loose to adjust my toe right?
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post #6 of 56 Old 11-11-2013, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Goodysgotacuda View Post
Looked into this before.

...Nobody makes jam nuts either, that I could find......
You sure? Unless it's a bastard thread size the jam nut should be the easy part.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-jam-nuts/=pc20nx

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post #7 of 56 Old 11-11-2013, 10:33 AM
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You sure? Unless it's a bastard thread size the jam nut should be the easy part.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-jam-nuts/=pc20nx
It's like an M20x1.25 or something bastard size, I'd have to check what tap I have.

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post #8 of 56 Old 11-11-2013, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by oscar the grouch View Post
would i need a jamnut or could i do a clamp like the oem side has?
sucks they are both right handers. means id have to pull the joint loose to adjust my toe right?
Yes, but that's not too big of a deal if you have that Harbor Freight ball joint separator tool..but with 15", it might be a pita.

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post #9 of 56 Old 11-11-2013, 11:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oscar the grouch View Post
would i need a jamnut or could i do a clamp like the oem side has?
sucks they are both right handers. means id have to pull the joint loose to adjust my toe right?
If the material you use for the TR is heavy duty, your toe adjustment should be few and far between. So if it is a bit of pain to adjust, you shouldn't be adjusting it as much as with the stock TR.

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post #10 of 56 Old 11-11-2013, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
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goody what do you want for that tap.

i think what ill do is tap some DOM tubing for the factorys.
get my buddy to bend it then buy a ball joint spreader.
total cost should be less than the replacement joint for the long side.
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post #11 of 56 Old 11-11-2013, 10:59 PM
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Do you have the dana 30? I was looking at mine the other day and it looks like a straight tie rod would fit without the offset ends. That might open up your options and still fit the 15s
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post #12 of 56 Old 11-12-2013, 03:28 PM Thread Starter
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the design phase continues....
anyone know what the thread size on the oem adjuster is?

Im looking at having a machine shop whip me up a solid tierod that will be very similar to the oem tierod.
same joints same adjuster but jamnuts instead of crimps on passenger side.
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post #13 of 56 Old 11-12-2013, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
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solid aluminum or dom steel.
discuss
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post #14 of 56 Old 11-12-2013, 06:43 PM
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I have done both. Bent the Dom multiple times. Did aluminum. have bent that a little too... Lol

If you aren't bashing rocks you'll be fine with either. If you are bashing rocks, get the knuckles that raise the tie rod.

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post #15 of 56 Old 11-12-2013, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I have done both. Bent the Dom multiple times. Did aluminum. have bent that a little too... Lol

If you aren't bashing rocks you'll be fine with either. If you are bashing rocks, get the knuckles that raise the tie rod.

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i would do that BUT im running 15in rims and there is no room. i may put a slight upward bend in the tie rod. anyone have any reasons why that wont work?

is there any physics involved in this other than connecting the two tires together with a rigid link?
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post #16 of 56 Old 11-12-2013, 07:00 PM
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is there any physics involved in this other than connecting the two tires together with a rigid link?
That'd be kinematics, and no not really as long as the ends have available misalignment to account for ackermann.

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post #17 of 56 Old 11-12-2013, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
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i understand ackerman on a rear side tierod but how does it apply to the jk?

wouldnt that already be acounted for in the design of the knuckles?
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post #18 of 56 Old 11-12-2013, 07:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oscar the grouch View Post
i understand ackerman on a rear side tierod but how does it apply to the jk?

wouldnt that already be acounted for in the design of the knuckles?
The moral was you can't just stick a bolt in the end. There has to be a joint to keep from inhibiting the steering actuation. And yes the proAckerman is built into the knuckle.


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post #19 of 56 Old 11-12-2013, 07:26 PM Thread Starter
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looking for a m25x1.5 jam nut.
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post #20 of 56 Old 11-12-2013, 07:27 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Goodysgotacuda View Post
The moral was you can't just stick a bolt in the end. There has to be a joint to keep from inhibiting the steering actuation. And yes the proAckerman is built into the knuckle.


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gotcha. im learning here.

so will i need a bend to clear the diff or will a straight rod clear?
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post #21 of 56 Old 11-12-2013, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by oscar the grouch View Post
looking for a m25x1.5 jam nut.
The machinist can slit the tapped tube, weld tabs on it and use a pinch bolt like the poly linkages use...


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post #22 of 56 Old 11-12-2013, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by oscar the grouch View Post
gotcha. im learning here.

so will i need a bend to clear the diff or will a straight rod clear?
Straight bar with OEM bent ends "should" clear.


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post #23 of 56 Old 11-12-2013, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goodysgotacuda View Post
The machinist can slit the tapped tube, weld tabs on it and use a pinch bolt like the poly linkages use...


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will that work with aluminum as well?
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post #24 of 56 Old 11-12-2013, 09:47 PM
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How much room do you need for offset TRE's to fit? Just curious if a 1/4" wheel spacer on each side would work or something

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post #25 of 56 Old 11-12-2013, 09:59 PM Thread Starter
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Already at 3.5 backspace
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