New front axle outers, hubs or no ?? - : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 8 Old 11-10-2013, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
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New front axle outers, hubs or no ??

Am trying to decide what is the best front axle for my 07 JKUX. Strong but low cost and don't need the cost or major redo of a Dana 60, since staying with 37's max. Probably a Trutrac in the front and Detroit in the stock rear.

Thinking of a fabricated 9 inch housing with normal JK brackets and then the question is what outers to get the strongest without going to the 1 ton outers with a big cost. I was thinking of oldstyle Dana 44 C's and then put on a Dana 44 knuckles and hubs from a Ford or other to get a 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern. All could come from junkyard parts that I already have or could get ?? And wanted to get away from the unit bearing.

What do you think ?? 5 on 5.5 with hubs or stay with 5 on 5 unit bearing ??

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post #2 of 8 Old 11-10-2013, 03:08 PM
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stay with unit bearing. plenty of people here who wheel on 37's and do 20k miles a year as well.
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post #3 of 8 Old 11-10-2013, 09:37 PM
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To eliminate fron driveline vibration issues I did Spyntec manual hubs on the stock Rubi D44. I had already had the stock housing sleeved & gussetted and installed Pro Steer ball joints, and angle corrected housings weren't readily available from Dynatrac at the time. Spyntecs are essentially CJ / F150 size spindles, bearings & hubs, with the spindles adapted to take the JK's ABS sensors. They use CJ Warn Premium 30 spline hubs and the CJ size outer stubs, which on my kit were chromoly Superior units. On a Rubi that means going down from the 1350 axle u-joints to the D30 size 297s. To make up the strength I switched to CMs and chromoly inners. I read somewhere that they now supply a Rubi-sized outer stub, not sure on that however. To make it all work I had to convert to 5x5.5" wheels, and replace the rear axle shafts. As you can see, it all adds up.

The big revelation is how much better the road manners are on a JK with the front axle not spinning all the time. The usual benefits of manual hubs accrue as well, better mileage, etc. All that being said, I don't recommend them due to cost. For what the conversion costs you can get a Pro Rock unimited housing from Dynatrac.

As for your thoughts, the big issue with the conversion using salvage parts is being able to get the front ABS sensors cooking. Older knuckles & hubs won't give you that capability. If you went to a 60 Currie offers a converted F350 unit bearing with manual capability. Dynatrac and Solid also have conversion kits with ABS capability.

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'09 JKRU. 4" Teraflex long arm, Teraflex R44 housing, Teraflex / Fox Resis, Poly Performance skids, Nemesis Billy Rockers, Nemesis flares, 37" ATZ P3s on 17" 5x5.5" Trailready HDs, Spyntec hubs, Teraflex BBK, Mopar BBK master/booster, Superior front & Alloy USA rear axle shafts, CTMs, Reids, Synergy drag link & tie rod, WTOR hydro-boosted steering, 5.38s, TF Dual Rate front bar, TF bumpers, Warn Powerplant, Tom Woods shafts, AA xfer case cable, Kilby canister relo, RH4x4 cage.

Last edited by SoK66; 11-13-2013 at 07:17 AM.
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post #4 of 8 Old 11-10-2013, 10:50 PM
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If you dont want to do the 1 ton outers then just stick with the jk stuff. It will work with all the electronics and there are plenty of people that are wheeling with them and 37s. The spyntec hub kit is available but is spendy.
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post #5 of 8 Old 11-11-2013, 05:49 AM
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is it really that much more to grab a d60 over a fabbed ford 9? seems like a waste of money to replace your front axle with something just as strong as factory. why not just snag a used jk 44?
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post #6 of 8 Old 11-11-2013, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
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axle size

The Ford 9 inch is 31 sp and the Dana 44 is 30, not a big difference as you have pointed out, but could go to the 35 sp and 1 ton outers. Make equal to a D60 ?? Is the Rubi 44 front a 30 sp and the Rubi rear a 32 sp and non Rubi rear 30 sp ??

Spline Diameter (from Dutchman website)
16 1.375
17 1.167
19 1.245
23 1.500
26 1.125
27 1.167
28 1.205
29 1.250
30 1.290
31 1.325
32 1.375
33 1.410
34 1.370
35 1.500
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post #7 of 8 Old 11-11-2013, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
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And the hubs and spindle make the front a full float, thought that was the king of rears ?? Maybe queen, huh ??
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post #8 of 8 Old 11-11-2013, 02:43 PM
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All front axles are full float. If you aren't going to 1 ton outers I'd just do a jk44.
A fab 9 is expensive.

Housing $700
HP 3rd with locker $2600
Inner. C's $400
Custom shafts $700+

And that's if you just use your outer knuckles and unit bearings.
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