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post #1 of 36 Old 11-09-2013, 04:38 AM Thread Starter
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MS LS Swap

Thought i'd post up about my most recent project. After seeing a few different members perform an LS swap in there garage/shop i decided that it was something i wanted to tackle. Originally i was going to take it to a shop to have the swap done but i figured i was mechanically inclined enough to give it a shot. I'm about a month into the work and have been plugging away at it best I can. I started the project off with installing a long arm kit i got as a birthday present, took about of week of a few hours here and there between work.
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Next step was separating the body from the frame of the jeep. It took my time on this part because i didn't have the parts from MoTech. It was probably a 4-5 hours worth of work, that included pulling the supercharger and all the parts associated with that kit. I used Jeep2.0's method and it worked quite well and was easy than i expected, took me about 3 hours or so taking my time and being quite careful.
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post #2 of 36 Old 11-09-2013, 05:29 AM Thread Starter
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Next order of business was pulling the motor. Then I decide to clean up the frame and give it a fresh coat of paint. At this point I still waiting on the Motech kit so while i was at it i painted the lock ring on my beadlock.
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After much anticipation the kit finally arrived and it was off to the races. Got the motor mount measured and double measured, my girlfriend laughed at me because i was using a square and a tape measure to double check myself. Test fitted the 5.3L and trans then welded the mounts in and painted them up. While i was waiting for paint to dry i started installing the input shaft in the t case. Next day i set the engine in the frame, took some time to get the motor mount to line up. All the holes lined up but the angle at which the captured nut on the frame mounts were made it difficult to get the bolt started. Used the tip that i read in dwn134's thread about loosening the bolts on the motor mount to get a little more play and that worked perfectly. Finished up swapping the input shaft out, had to go chase down a seal from the local auto parts store so that ate up sometime. I was glad that i found one though, on a Sunday. Next few day i spent time installing the rest of the part that i received. Spent hours trying to get my a/c compressor and crank position sensor just right only to realize that the reluctor ring attached to the balancer pulley was warped, thinking it probably was damaged during shipping. Pulled that and shipped it back to Robbi to have the ring replaced and kept working on what I could. At this point the gm wires are ran, alternator mounted up, shift cable bracket installed, evap sensor and solenoid installed, as well as fuel line and gm gas pedal. It took about a 5 days of nice steady work taking my time trying to pay attention to detail to get to the point I'm at now. I've run into a few issue, my aftermarket drive shafts do not mate up to the t case (too long and not long enough), Checked my measurement again on the motor mount and am baffled why, and my transmission mounting plate is pushed as far forward as i could get it and still had to coax the transmission bushing bolts into the hole. Guess they are just cookie cutter shafts so i will have the rear 1350 reworked and i am going to go with a new 1310 upfront to replace my current 1350 because space is tight. Also while messing with the driveshafts i discovered my rear pinion has all kinds of lateral play in it, good thing it didn't grenade my diff on my last wheeling trip the few days before i started this project. The aforementioned warped reluctor ring was another issue, obviously. At this point i'm waiting on brown santa to bring me a few goodies from Motech. Due to the cost of parts and labor for a regear in my area i'm going to be pulling the arb from my front axle and sending it off to have it installed in pr44 housing and just have the rear done locally. Cost me more but i'll be getting more bang for my buck this way, thats how ridiculous parts and labor are here. I hope to have the locker out by the end of the weekend and shipped off on monday. On a side note i will say that quite a few thread's from this forum have been a tremendous help and saved Robbi quite a few call/emails, He has also been more that helpful and extremely knowledgable. Jeep2.0 has been great with answering some questions for me also.[IMG][/IMG]
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post #3 of 36 Old 11-09-2013, 06:04 AM
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The transfer case gets moved 2 to 3 inches is why the shafts dont fit anymore. The stock ones give that play you need to keep using them. Also your lift is robbing you of some more inches
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post #4 of 36 Old 11-09-2013, 09:33 AM
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I'm just trying to work out the bugs on mine but I really enjoyed doing it. I had the same driveshaft problem. My front 1310 was lengthened 2 1/2" and I got a new rear 1350 that's about 3" shorter. The stockers may have fit but I wanted to upgrade.

I finding out now that a vacuum leak can cause a ton of problems, be sure to check everything closely before you get the engine all packed in and any skid plates on. I found a pin hole in my PCV hose that was causing fuel trims in excess of 25, $22 and 6 hours later they came down to 0's.

What long arm kit do you have?

Sean
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post #5 of 36 Old 11-09-2013, 10:55 AM
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Looking good D!

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post #6 of 36 Old 11-09-2013, 05:16 PM Thread Starter
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I guess i was just surprised about the d.s. fitment because i had not read any mention of it in the threads and information i looked through, no biggie just adding it to the list of to-do's. The long arm kit was made by evo. Thanks for the heads up about vacuum issues

Still waiting on that flashlight Stopher.
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post #7 of 36 Old 11-09-2013, 05:35 PM
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We have a couple different transfer case adapters. The one we like to use on the 4 doors is about an inch longer than the shorter adapter. It has a simpler transmission mount set up and can be used with the 6l80 2WD transmissions.

We use the shorter adapter on 2 doors for better ds angle. If you have ds that doesn't quite fit we can send you the shorter adapter.



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post #8 of 36 Old 11-09-2013, 05:59 PM
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This jeep was already a total BEAST, I can't wait to see it perform with the new additions! Awesome work D, I wouldn't have the skills to manage this job and knowing me I would probably leave a bolt loose here and there. HAHA

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post #9 of 36 Old 11-09-2013, 06:20 PM
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Still waiting on that flashlight Stopher.
My bad! Be right over.

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post #10 of 36 Old 11-09-2013, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
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We have a couple different transfer case adapters. The one we like to use on the 4 doors is about an inch longer than the shorter adapter. It has a simpler transmission mount set up and can be used with the 6l80 2WD transmissions.

We use the shorter adapter on 2 doors for better ds angle. If you have ds that doesn't quite fit we can send you the shorter adapter.



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I remember you telling me about the adapter differences when the issue first arose but it will require a few inches of shortening to get my rear driveshaft to fit. I spoke with the drive shaft shop you suggested and they are going to take care of it for me.

The anticipation is killing me 1badjk
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post #11 of 36 Old 11-10-2013, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoTech View Post
We have a couple different transfer case adapters. The one we like to use on the 4 doors is about an inch longer than the shorter adapter. It has a simpler transmission mount set up and can be used with the 6l80 2WD transmissions.

We use the shorter adapter on 2 doors for better ds angle. If you have ds that doesn't quite fit we can send you the shorter adapter.



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Does the 5.3 swap that uses the stock JK manual transmission keep the transfer case in the stock location, thereby allowing you to keep the stock driveshafts?

Rob

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post #12 of 36 Old 11-10-2013, 08:04 PM
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Does the 5.3 swap that uses the stock JK manual transmission keep the transfer case in the stock location, thereby allowing you to keep the stock driveshafts?

Rob

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It's very close and the stock shafts will work. One feature of our mounts is you can slide the powertrain forward or back a couple inches.

The stock JK crossmember is slotted to allow a couple inches of fore aft movement; when combined with our GM transmission plates you have up to 4" of movement.

For specific needs like 4" + lifts, 3 and 4 speed transmissions, etc you can mock up the drivetrain so everything is where you want it, then weld in the engine mounts. Our recommend position places the engine just in front of the firewall with no mods needed.

With the truck engine you will need to space the cooling fan motor forward, the passenger car engines have more room.

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post #13 of 36 Old 11-20-2013, 05:50 PM Thread Starter
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Update on things, i received the harmonic balancer, power steering brackets, and all the jk stuff i sent off, minus the pcm,at the beginning of the week. Yesterday I mounted the balancer back up and was able to line up the pin holes first try, thought it was going to take multiple attempts. I had to sand down the plastic sensor behind the balancer because it was making contact with the tone ring. Rechecked and adjusted the crankshaft position sensor. I also bolted up the p/s bracket and drilled and tapped the psc pump. Today I was able to find the right length serpentine belt to work with the psc pump. 99.5" seems to be the right one. I made an attempt at putting 99" belt on and it was a no go. I wrestled with it for a while couldn't get it on and Im a pretty strong individual. The 99.5" took quite a bit of wrestling aswell but managed to get it one, i have about an inch of tensioning adjustment left so i thought that was adequate. Guess i'll find out after putting a few miles on it. I also ran the some of the jk wires and went over things to make sure i had bolts tightened and wires ran correctly. I made the costly mistake of over tightening the start solenoid stud, have to replace that tomorrow. Hoping to have the body on the frame by the weekend



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post #14 of 36 Old 11-20-2013, 06:50 PM
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I better get my flashlight!

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post #15 of 36 Old 11-21-2013, 09:09 AM
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Your balancer, re-tighten after you use it for a while. Robbie was going to have me pin it after it came loose after using the air a few times! After re-tightening haven't had an issue since and I didn't have to pin but doesn't hurt either!
On your PSC pump did you use the idler they suggest and is in there kit or the stock Jeep one? I am doing the same setup just haven't made time so wondering about the belt I need?
I put on Tom Wood DS front and rear and with the adapter Robbie sent, not sure if it was the shorter one, the rear just barely worked with stock arms and front had to be sent back in and lengthened 2.5". If I would of waited instead of pre ordering the DS for stock dimensions I would of not had this problem!
It didn't help I moved everything back as close to the fire wall as possible and didn't have to move the radiator to accommodate! Maybe 1\4" between fan spal and water pump idler but it worked! If you have fat fingers and ever need to get at the back of motor this will not work for you and you should still use Robbie's dimensions anyway to get close!!! My skinny hands come out bloody and the molded ground stud on back of drivers side head is rubbing heat and noise shield slightly so it is back there!! Like Robbie said you have play and you can move the body back some, 1\2" or so, if you push it back against bolts when mounting. I did mine with body on so checking it several times before welding in mounts permanently was possible!
If you have a question put out a shout! There are many and the number is rising that have done this at home! There are some gotcha's but walk away when you hit a snag and keep it fun! Otherwise you will get the C4 and give up! A lot to learn and you will NEVER know it all even though Robbie seems to be close at times!!!
I don't know how he does it with all that he has going on! With family and a small side business I don't get the sleep I need!! He has to have a small Army of Special Minion's to help keep ahead because I have done my fair share of bugging him!!

Good Luck!!

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post #16 of 36 Old 11-21-2013, 04:49 PM
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X2 keen to know psc setup details.
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post #17 of 36 Old 11-21-2013, 05:58 PM
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You can use the 2 bolt psc small pulley pump. You need to drill and tap the rear two bosses for 8mm bolts. Run a 6K1000 belt.

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post #18 of 36 Old 11-21-2013, 06:54 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice jims68. As far as the PSC setup goes i drilled and tapped the bosses on the rear of the pump like Robbi said. I used the pulley that was supplied with the kit by Motech, tried it with the pulley that is supplied in the PSC kit but it makes contact with the water pump housing. I tried 3 different belts to get the right one, atleast i think the right one, to work. I tried a 99",99.5" ,and 100". The 100" was too long, i was able to pull the psc pump to its farthest adjustment point. i couldnt even get the 99" on and 99.5" was a battle but i got it on there with room for adjustment. We'll see if its the right one after i put some miles on it.

Today i was able to get everything squared away with motor and wires. Set the body back on the frame, it took quit a bit of time lowering the body down using the jack stand and engine hoist method. I had to lower in stages making an attempt to keep the body nice and level to keep from setting one end of the body on the frame at an extreme angle. Tomorrow i'll get the body adjusted just right on the body mounts. Fuel lines are quit tight between the transmission and body in one area so i'm going to try and move them over so that there is plenty of clearance.

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post #19 of 36 Old 11-21-2013, 07:59 PM
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When you set the body down look at the front body mount, center the stud in the hole. You can shift the body fore and aft if you need more clearance on the water pump.

A little trick when lowering the body is tie a string to one front and rear body mount and hang a plumb bob (or nut) from it, line it up with the frame as you lower it and it will get you very close.

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post #20 of 36 Old 11-22-2013, 12:02 AM
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This is a big reason why i want to keep curret jeep and not trade in for new penstar. Been keeping eye out on engines To get idea of total cost. Looking good. Is the wiring harness the only main connevtion to the body besides mechanical things for the tranny steering etc
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post #21 of 36 Old 11-22-2013, 05:22 AM Thread Starter
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There are a few large connections in the engine bay that run between the motor and the body. There was much less connected between the body and frame than i thought.
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post #22 of 36 Old 11-22-2013, 07:23 AM
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Not to thread jack, but where did you find the motor and trans? I have been starting to plan for this project myself and have been looking for an engine and trans package but nothing close to me.

thanks
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post #23 of 36 Old 11-22-2013, 07:36 AM
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When i see motech pop the body i wasn't sure how hard it would be for do it your selfers. Have you tried car-parts.com to search junkyards?
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post #24 of 36 Old 11-22-2013, 09:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJCFHB View Post
I tried 3 different belts to get the right one, atleast i think the right one, to work. I tried a 99",99.5" ,and 100". The 100" was too long, i was able to pull the psc pump to its farthest adjustment point.
As a side note it is our experience PSC supplies several different P/S pumps with different size pulleys for the JK; so, it is difficult to predict which set up you will have. They even have a pump that has the same size pulley as the stock JK and bolts right on but it is difficult to get and has less volume than the other pumps according to PSC.

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post #25 of 36 Old 11-22-2013, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
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As a side note it is our experience PSC supplies several different P/S pumps with different size pulleys for the JK; so, it is difficult to predict which set up you will have. They even have a pump that has the same size pulley as the stock JK and bolts right on but it is difficult to get and has less volume than the other pumps according to PSC.
Howe is supposedly sending me a pump that is supposed to reuse the stock pulley and flow 3.5 gpm as opposed to the stock 2...


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