Jeep shop says don't sleeve..??? - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 16 Old 10-29-2013, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
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Jeep shop says don't sleeve..???

Hi there,

When I called a shop for a regear, gussets and sleeves for my dana 44s, I was told to skip the sleeves because the axle housings just bend at a different point anyway.

Is this true? Anyone else hear this?

Not saying names but it is a well known shop and I found the recommendation honest and interesting.

Thanks.
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post #2 of 16 Old 10-29-2013, 06:20 PM
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True to some degree. The main issue in regards to an axle tube bending and/ or cracking often times happens where the tube enters the differential housing. It happens more often on the passenger side ( obviously due to the longer tube), but it can also happen on the drivers side. A tube can indeed bend, but again... it generally happens at the housing.

I recommend reenforcing the axle as much as possible so sleeving isn't a bad idea, but I feel that if you are going to sleeve an axle ( inner, outer, or both) that you also at the very least also do a truss of some kind in order to completely strengthen the entire axle assembly. Also... not a bad idea to get rid of the crappy-ass OEM brackets and go with a more heavy-duty set of brackets for all the attached components... control arms, spring perches, etc.

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post #3 of 16 Old 10-29-2013, 06:27 PM
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^What he said...
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post #4 of 16 Old 10-29-2013, 06:29 PM
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A truss is a pretty significant upgrade over sleeves. Sleeves were a great, quick, easy to produce option when the JK first came out...but I don't really recommend them with today's options.

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post #5 of 16 Old 10-29-2013, 06:36 PM
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Upgrading the OEM front; at what point are you close to spending the same amount on a new Dynatrac or Teraflex housing? It's got to be close if you have to pay for welding and/or work.

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post #6 of 16 Old 10-29-2013, 06:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e-jeep View Post
Upgrading the OEM front; at what point are you close to spending the same amount on a new Dynatrac or Teraflex housing? It's got to be close if you have to pay for welding and/or work.
Axle housing is $2k, not even close.


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post #7 of 16 Old 10-29-2013, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigMike View Post
Axle housing is $2k, not even close.

I guess the unknown for me is the amount of prep/welding/re-install hours for the artec truss. I've done/helped with most of the rest mentioned.

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post #8 of 16 Old 10-29-2013, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I do want to regear now, at least. Not sure if I will ever go lareger than 37" tires.

Sounds like I should just kill the stock axles and then upgrade the housing later. It would be nice to prolong its life as long as possible with minimal investment.

The shop,is saying to just do the c gussets.

Thanks.
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post #9 of 16 Old 10-29-2013, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e-jeep View Post
I guess the unknown for me is the amount of prep/welding/re-install hours for the artec truss. I've done/helped with most of the rest mentioned.
I have 600$ into my Artec truss and I had a friend of a friend weld it for me.

I also debated an aftermarket housing, but for my needs, the Artec truss was good enough.
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post #10 of 16 Old 10-29-2013, 11:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pharmguy75 View Post
^What he said...
Yep what he said but I would sleeve truss and gusset sleeves plus lower control arm rock slider.

I just need the artec truss as I did everything else as soon as I lifted my jeep. Artec truss was not an option then

Quote:
Originally Posted by Goodysgotacuda View Post
A truss is a pretty significant upgrade over sleeves. Sleeves were a great, quick, easy to produce option when the JK first came out...but I don't really recommend them with today's options.
Tubes are still thin and weak. I would still recommend sleeves. But that is my opinion and it's ok to have different thoughts on it. It's up to the OP to decide what he wants.

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post #11 of 16 Old 10-30-2013, 12:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asphalt assault View Post
Tubes are still thin and weak. I would still recommend sleeves. But that is my opinion and it's ok to have different thoughts on it. It's up to the OP to decide what he wants.
Agreed. That was what influenced my decision to sleeve mine ( outer only). I wasn't in the market to do an entire axle replacement. Knowing that I was going to truss and replace all brackets, I decided best to add some beef to the tubes for the added PP truss and heavy-duty PP brackets. Definitely a solid set-up with these three areas addressed.

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post #12 of 16 Old 10-30-2013, 03:04 AM
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I sleeved trussed and used the gussets. Plus I did the lower control arm skids. I welded everything myself so I think everything cost me around $400-$500. Good luck.

its all about the crawl ratio.
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post #13 of 16 Old 10-30-2013, 05:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asphalt assault View Post
Tubes are still thin and weak. I would still recommend sleeves. But that is my opinion and it's ok to have different thoughts on it. It's up to the OP to decide what he wants.

From an structural standpoint, the truss offers a substantial increase in bending resistance and torsional stiffness to the housing; distributing the load applied to it throughout the entire housing. Rather than causing a stress concentration at only the tube bosses on the differential housing, which even then, most sleeves don't even fully engage there due to the close proximity to the seals. Sleeves offer little, to no torsional stiffness increase. OD is also always a faster way to increase strength over wall thickness, the truss offers an effective way to increase OD in the direction it needs to be applied. From a cross-section, it is more of a elongated "D" than just a thick tube.

Different opinions are always great, for a housing modification, reacting to applied forces in the right direction, effectively, are what drive mine.

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Last edited by Goodysgotacuda; 10-30-2013 at 05:58 AM.
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post #14 of 16 Old 10-30-2013, 05:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e-jeep View Post
Upgrading the OEM front; at what point are you close to spending the same amount on a new Dynatrac or Teraflex housing? It's got to be close if you have to pay for welding and/or work.
Quote:
Originally Posted by e-jeep View Post
I guess the unknown for me is the amount of prep/welding/re-install hours for the artec truss. I've done/helped with most of the rest mentioned.
Since you are looking at re-gearing at least price out the e-jeep's recommendation. Unless you are doing the work yourself the price difference will probably be very little to nil.
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post #15 of 16 Old 10-30-2013, 08:26 AM
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Outer sleeves, inner sleeves, and a lightweight truss. Add support to the C's and you've got a very, very stout front axle.
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post #16 of 16 Old 10-30-2013, 10:38 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone.

What I want to avoid is investing too much into the stock axles.

I do plan to swap them out completely at some point with complete d60s, which is why I want to spend as little as possible now, beyond the regear. Sounds like at least c gussets and perhaps tubes. Trusses seem over the top for me on this.

The other approach which I have not vetted put yet is to swap them out now and sell the complete D44 rubi axles but have no clue what they would be worth with 9k miles.
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