Canadian LS swap.....and more - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 29 Old 10-14-2013, 10:43 PM Thread Starter
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Canadian LS swap.....and more

I'm just trying to finish up my JK build and found a lot of information on the site just being a lurker. The pictures and videos were a huge help as well as Motechs videos on You-Tube. Along the way there was some things I had to just figure out for myself so I thought I might be able to add some information to make this easier than it already is. It's a well thought out kit with minimal fabrication and wiring knowledge.(as long as you know your colors they make it easy).

I'm just about done so feel free to have me backtrack something or chime in if you have some input. Add pictures and get sidetracked if you want, it doesn't bother me.

Things I did to my 2007 bare bones JK:
LC9 motor and 6L80 trans. from 2012 Silverado 18000KMS
Axles gutted D44, D30 4:10 Gears
ARB lockers front and rear
ARB compressor
RCV's
Chromo Rear axle shafts
Artec Trusses
Synergy Sleeves
Synergy Ball Joints
1310 Front D/S
1350 Rear D/S
Axle skid plates (home made)
Belly and oil pan skid plates (also home made)
S-Pod
Tube fenders
Poison Spyder Rocker Knockers
Evap relocation (home made easy)
Dual battery tray (home made)
Arm rests
2011 Visors (best $200 spent)
AEV Front and Rear Bumpers (chopped the front down)
BDS lift kit last year (thinking Game Changer now though)
35" tires

Probably missed something, oh well.

I'll start with the tear down

Sean

Last edited by Sgo70; 10-14-2013 at 11:39 PM.
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post #2 of 29 Old 10-14-2013, 10:59 PM Thread Starter
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I was going to ship it down to LV but after talking to Robbie I figured I could do it and buy a lift with the money I saved. That money is lllllooonnngggg gone now as you can tell by the list. Sold my old Model A hot rod so I had a pretty good budget but I think the engine swap was $3000 for the engine and trans and about $7000 for the full kit excluding the radiator. Not bad considering I was quoted $3000 just to go to 5:13's, don't think I need them now and I learned how to do them myself along the way just in case.

The tear down was just a matter of hunting around for things that would hang up:
E-brake lines
wiring harnesses (just unplug)
transmission/t-case cables
trailer wiring
body mounts
power steering pump
a/c lines
rad lines
steering shaft

Probably more, lift slowly and keep walking around.

I disconnected my brake lines but now I have to go to the dealer or find someone that can bleed the ABS module(second picture). There's a reason you see them sticking up in all the pictures. Strap the steering wheel AND your pitman arm, the pitman arm cost me a $400 clockspring. Still learning. If anyone know how to bleed the ABS module without a Starscan please let me know. I did a regular flush and bleed and it's still soft.

Sean
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Last edited by Sgo70; 10-15-2013 at 12:00 AM.
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post #3 of 29 Old 10-14-2013, 11:07 PM Thread Starter
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Take lots of pictures, you will forget the easiest things.

Removing the engine and tranny is pretty straight forward now the hard part is fitting it in the buyers truck with a topper on it hehe.

Cover up your brake lines or remove them like me and start cutting off those engine mounts, clean it all up and now is a good time to paint everything front to back.

I did a test fit before I welded but if you measure carefully Robbies measurements are bang on. Note: I couldn't figure out that the D is drivers and P is passengers called to make sure.
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post #4 of 29 Old 10-14-2013, 11:18 PM Thread Starter
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I didn't get the transmission spacers in the first shipment so rather than wait I just made some 1 15/16" spacers on the lathe. Just had to put a small shoulder to make them fit.

It went a lot quicker then I thought so I built an exhaust, AFE 3" rear muffler and a Dynaflo front kit for the front with the Trailblazer manifolds they suggest. Looking back I'd skip the kit and just buy the Cats, gaskets, J-bends and some straight pipe. Cost is about the same but it's easier than trying to make a kit work. You need four O2 sensor bungs as well.

I still can't TIG worth a crap so I migged Stainless, no laughing it doesn't leak!!!
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post #5 of 29 Old 10-14-2013, 11:31 PM Thread Starter
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Transfer case next:

Take more pictures and watch video on you-tube.

I used the bolt trick to seperate the case like I saw in another thread, I think the hardest part here is getting the top case on with the oil feeder gears lined up (that is the tech name for it in my books, not sure what it really is). Good snap ring pliers help and the bolt with the ball on it is not the drain plug.

If you watch the video and lay it all out neatly it shouldn't take long or be difficult. I've never seen one apart and it was probably only a couple of hours, although my wife tells me my internal clock is slow. Take seals to parts store to get new ones, took me three tries before I brought them along. Talk about hammer throwing experience. The new output shaft goes on the bottom and them put it together just like you took it apart, new seals RTV and bolt it up.
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post #6 of 29 Old 10-14-2013, 11:40 PM
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Subscribed; keep this pics coming. What videos are you referring to, and where can I watch them?

Sent from my Galaxy Note 3
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post #7 of 29 Old 10-14-2013, 11:45 PM Thread Starter
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This would never happen with an LS.

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/le3ez54v604uczw/NWVXsGLMyo

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/fvzwc8ft374jadu/MCYSYrp7l6

I think I'm running out of room for pictures already. The videos are from Robbie on you-tube:

Accessory drive - YouTube

Sean

Last edited by Sgo70; 10-20-2013 at 07:47 PM. Reason: pictures too big
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post #8 of 29 Old 10-14-2013, 11:57 PM Thread Starter
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I guess that link means it's time to put the accessory drive on. It's a bit finicky but not that bad. I forgot my crankshaft position sensor and had to put it on in the vehicle, doable but a real PIA to get it sitting right. My belt is quite tight but Robbie said it would loosen up after a bit and need readjustment.

I did the Crank pulley now as well. DO NOT pull it on with the bolt you WILL wreck the crank threads. This sucker is tight!! I used a threaded rod a few big washers and a grade 8 nut with my impact wrench. I heated it up in the oven, first to 200F then a little higher, and higher. Probably about 350F before I could get it to go on. I didn't use any grease or lube because there is no keyway to keep it from spinning, the last thing I want in there is grease. It doesn't need to be lined up.....as Robbie said "it lands where it lands", I thought that was kinda funny but it seems to run well.

Now's also a good time to drill and tap for the coolant temp sensor. I didn't know about it until the body was back on but with the 1" body lift I added you could easily do it on the vehicle. I'll try to get a picture of it. The body lift actually helped out a lot with running wires and fuel lines as well I could just use bulk straight heater hose. Gives a little more room at the back of the engine and along the driveshaft tunnel. I'd suggest considering it for sure.

Can't load more pictures, might have to do a link to Flica or something.

Sean

Last edited by Sgo70; 10-20-2013 at 07:44 PM. Reason: Crankshaft pulley
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post #9 of 29 Old 10-20-2013, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
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This is about the time I got things ready to ship off to Motech. There is a list of stuff:

Jeep Shifter
A/C lines
ECM Chev
PCM Jeep
BCM Chev
and something I didn't know about but your C100 and C102 wiring harnesses from the Jeep. Once again instead of waiting to ship it back and forth Robbie gave me some easy to follow instructions with pictures and everything so I could do it myself. Not too hard and I took my time I didn't want to go back and fix it later. Lot's of cutting mostly.

The thing that had me the most worried was the wiring on the new engine, it's kind of daunting when you look at it but with the harness supplied it's about a 30 min job at best. You have to try really hard to mix this up if you just follow along with the video link I posted above. The key is to lay out the "Y" as he states in his instructions.

My oil pressure sensor was the wrong size so a quick trip to the dealer had the right one in no time.
part number:GM # 12616646

Accessory's
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/co01yugoqvpb34a/WmMvpAm2M4

Wiring kit, the "Y" is at the top made of plastic.
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/0yp44hb4nterov3/Za03QtfDPc

Rear view, all new fuel lines as well
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/6kswz6de9kt9rjk/RyeRt3_-Cp

Sean
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post #10 of 29 Old 10-20-2013, 10:19 PM
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SOLID build... keep the pics ROLLING eh!!


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post #11 of 29 Old 10-21-2013, 03:21 AM
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Very nice!!!!
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post #12 of 29 Old 10-21-2013, 05:45 AM
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Canadian LS huh? so does it run on maple syrup?

great build, keep the pics coming!
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post #13 of 29 Old 10-21-2013, 08:43 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sneck View Post
Canadian LS huh? so does it run on maple syrup?

great build, keep the pics coming!


No, that's the French version from Eastern Canada. I'm in Alberta, it runs on Tar Sands bitumen and pure Greed!!.hehehe
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post #14 of 29 Old 10-27-2013, 08:41 AM Thread Starter
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I didn't get a transmission dipstick with my engine so I bought a Lokar flexible one for the 6L80, I like it better and just made a small adapter to mount it.

This box shows the left over parts that aren't too obvious. Top left is the oil pressure sensor brass fitting. It bolts on to where the oil cooler lines were located as shown in the next picture. The rectangle is your ECM mount, long piece is to mount the coolant bottle, three of the screws and three spacers go on your fan motor to puch it forward for a little clearance from the front of the engine. The bracket with the two bolts and round hole are the crankshaft position sensor, don't forget this it's a pain to put on once on the engine.
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post #15 of 29 Old 10-27-2013, 08:49 AM Thread Starter
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That was pretty much it, it's time to put the body on. I wrapped up all the loose wires and put them on top of the engine, removed the old coolant overflow that will be discarded for the new aluminum one and lined it all up.

I saw somewhere to put strings from the body mounts down through the frame mounts with weights on the end, makes lining up easy.

I also added a 1" body lift now which makes running wires and fuel lines very easy also gives you more room in the engine bay at the rear of the motor.
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post #16 of 29 Old 10-27-2013, 09:44 AM
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awesome build! cool that you are doing it yourself instead of throwing money at it to get done. i hope to do this someday as well.

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07 X RK X factor 5.5 long arm w/coilovers, Coast front ds, adams rear shaft, 5.13's, Detroit rear/ e-locker front, Ten factory front & rear shafts, artec c gussets, synergy ball joints, rockhard offroad cage, ipcw tails, aev corners, warn xd9000i, bestop element doors, 37" bfg km2's, 17" TR beadlocks
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post #17 of 29 Old 10-27-2013, 10:28 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, I really enjoy doing it myself and it's amazing what you learn about your Jeep along the way. Robbie knows the details very well, sometimes I just listen but have no idea what he's talking about.

A couple of shots with the body back on as well as the new tube fenders.

Got a couple of days to kill after that and a few rust spots, so I gave it a light sanding with 400 grit and shot some Hot Rod Flatz satin black on it.
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post #18 of 29 Old 10-27-2013, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
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If you've ever had your ebrake unwind on you it's a little scarey and there's not a lot of info on how to rewind it. It's actually pretty easy but wear eye protection there's a lot of force wound up in it.

I took it out of the Jeep cause I had to figure out how it worked, but you could probably just leave it in.

I fed the cable around the grooved drum from the front through the bottom and out the rear. Have a thin punch handy to put through the hole to hold it once it's wound. I fed a long screw driver through the attachment bracket and pulled it out the back until I could get the punch through. It's like a little bomb now so be careful, it's ready to go in now. I took it back and put the four nuts back on the studs and then hooked the cables back up. I carefully unloaded the spring with the long screwdriver to pull the punch out and you're done. In the second picture you can see the tab on the bottom that holds the spring and the angle bracket below the punch that you want to lock off to keep the spring wound.

Don't forget the indicator wire in the blurry picture.
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post #19 of 29 Old 10-27-2013, 10:50 AM Thread Starter
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Gotta think about this one for a minute.......where to start????
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post #20 of 29 Old 10-27-2013, 08:42 PM
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thanks for the pics and info, the more people do this the more comfortable i get with tackling this project


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post #21 of 29 Old 10-27-2013, 10:11 PM Thread Starter
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It's a big job for sure but when you break it down into the steps it's not so bad. Just gotta take your time and not be in a rush which is sometimes the hardest part.

The wiring doesn't take as long as it does to get at it. From the picture above you can see that you have a lot of diss assembly. The shifter comes back from Motech with the power board attached to it and I think about seven wires coming off. One goes up to your HVAC controls, one to the instrument cluster and I think there was one going to the harness out to the engine. Your PRNDL connector is down below hanging next to your tranny so the last four wires have to connect to four from the connector plug. I extended mine and ran them up through the firewall with all the other wires coming in. Robbie gives you the specifics of what goes where so I wouldn't want to confuse things.

There's a few wires to tap in under the hood can't remember exactly where except two of them go to the TIPM. I found it easier just to unplug the connectors and move the fuse box out of the way.

The transmission cable can be adjusted with the slotted cable attachment and the transfer case can also be hooked up and adjusted. I had some problems with my t-case and I found it easiest to pull the shifter back to the 4 HI gate and then go underneath. You can pull on the cable to make sure it's right back to the gate and hook it up underneath in 4 HI position (second notch from the back). Now the holes on the bracket will be lined up and you can bolt in the 2 bolts. Easier than it sounds. I bent around some hose clamps to secure the cables to the bracket mounted to the tranny. The PRNDL will be programmed once you have power hooked up.
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post #22 of 29 Old 10-27-2013, 10:22 PM Thread Starter
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The main engine harness comes in through the firewall to another connector. This is a pigtail that has a wire for the brake switch, engine light, DTC plug (can't think of proper name), gas pedal, and a few other things. I think the Motech video explains this part very well so I won't get into it.

I will say that putting the gas pedal on SUCKS!!!! Get this done first while you still have patients. It's mounted to a bracket along with a stub of the original and then bolted up to the firewall. The lower nut is easy but the upper one has a bunch of wires around it and is very tight. I must have dropped the nut 5 times and had to search for it each time. Once you get it started I found using about a 6" extension on my small socket wrench shoved through the wires worked out better than trying to use a small wrench.
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post #23 of 29 Old 10-27-2013, 10:34 PM Thread Starter
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back into the engine bay to connect the hoses, wrap the wires in split loom, and a little clean up.

With the body lift I could just buy bulk heater hose and hook that up otherwise I think you have to extend the originals.

With the stock rad hoses I made a couple of adapters, the upper hose has a steam port. I've read of a number of different ways to handle the steam line but I wouldn't try any of the short cuts such as plumbing it back into the water pump or just plugging it off. The after market rad has a steam port and the rad hoses are probably easier to come by since they have the inlets the same size.

For my adapters I used some aluminum and turned it down on my lathe then bored out the center. Drilled and tapped for a 5/16" hose fitting on the upper hose as well. I've seen different adapters on the internet but couldn't find any locally.

The overflow can is also mounted now.
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post #24 of 29 Old 10-27-2013, 10:39 PM Thread Starter
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Just saw this picture I had. It shows the line to the steam port (vertical coming off the block) and the plastic tube from the fuel rail. I cut this one off and used 5/16" fuel hose going to the intake tube.
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post #25 of 29 Old 10-27-2013, 10:49 PM Thread Starter
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Fabbed up a dual battery tray. It is cut into the original TIPM tray so I retained the heat shields for all the electronics. Having batteries with no top posts bought me about 2" or so, so It's as high as I could mount it and it just sticks slightly below the original. I used some rubber grommets from a set of old skateboard trucks to keep the batteries from getting punctured by the mount bolts. Got about 750 cca/battery with 1250 peak from each.
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