which 4" lift? - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 25 Old 10-11-2013, 05:52 AM Thread Starter
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Age: 31
Posts: 15
Feedback: 0 reviews
which 4" lift?

Hi...im new to the jk scene and just bought a 2013 4dr manual trans sport unlimited.i always wanted a lifted jk and was wondering for some input.im on a budget and cant decide between 3 manufacturers.its between pro comp...zone ...and rough country......I just want a kit thats complete and will install with the least extra expenses like do I need to use a new drive shaft..or is moving my exhausts back necessary with any of these 4" kits?...im also planning 35"s so im prepping slowly.there all in the 450-600 range.thanks jko!
unlimitedjk13 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 25 Old 10-11-2013, 07:24 AM
JKO Addict!
 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: CT
Age: 41
Posts: 5,705
Feedback: 7 reviews

Welcome. Do some reading first.
- budget and lift are two words that don't work well together. Esp at 4"



Sent from AutoGuide.com App

2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers
kjeeper10 is offline  
post #3 of 25 Old 10-11-2013, 07:31 AM
Rock God
 
Rolltidejk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Tucson, AZ
Age: 39
Posts: 1,080
Feedback: 0 reviews

Look at the Rock krawler 2.5" stock mod. Should be up your alley.



Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
Rolltidejk is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 25 Old 10-11-2013, 07:34 AM
Rock God
 
daspes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Age: 46
Posts: 631
Garage
Feedback: 0 reviews

Please do your research. You'll end up replacing nearly everything on any lift from all three of those companies.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
daspes is offline  
post #5 of 25 Old 10-11-2013, 07:42 AM
Rock God
 
Rolltidejk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Tucson, AZ
Age: 39
Posts: 1,080
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by daspes View Post
Please do your research. You'll end up replacing nearly everything on any lift from all three of those companies.
This!!!! I went prematurely(like usual) and pulled the trigger on the 4" rough country. Ya it looked good, but I had to upgrade quickly on other items. I have a 4 door so I ripped my drive shaft boot, so I had to buy a front drive shaft, steering was horrible so I had to upgrade to a flip kit and replace the drop pitman arm. Replaced both front and rear track bars etc. It adds up extremely quickly and I would had been better off spending the money on a more superior and complete kit.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
Rolltidejk is offline  
post #6 of 25 Old 10-11-2013, 07:48 AM
JKowners Vendor
 
Rock Krawler Suspension's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,717
Feedback: 8 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by unlimitedjk13 View Post
Hi...im new to the jk scene and just bought a 2013 4dr manual trans sport unlimited.i always wanted a lifted jk and was wondering for some input.im on a budget and cant decide between 3 manufacturers.its between pro comp...zone ...and rough country......I just want a kit thats complete and will install with the least extra expenses like do I need to use a new drive shaft..or is moving my exhausts back necessary with any of these 4" kits?...im also planning 35"s so im prepping slowly.there all in the 450-600 range.thanks jko!
Welcome to the world of JK's... If you would like to talk JK, your needs and your build, give us a shout. Even if you are not using our products, we are here to help and we have built a boat load of JK's. We know them inside and out!

For 35's a 4" lift is pretty tall in our opinion. Feel free to give us a call at 518-270-9822.

RK
Rock Krawler Suspension is offline  
post #7 of 25 Old 10-11-2013, 02:09 PM Thread Starter
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Age: 31
Posts: 15
Feedback: 0 reviews

I appreciate the response......and roltide thanks cause all those is exactly wat I meant!.....I know a lot of owners want a lift but cant afford the extra cost of a real nice setup just yet.....I dnt mind rk products I just want a problem free complete kit right now and if a 3inch is better than a 4inch cost wise then id be leaning towards that!
unlimitedjk13 is offline  
post #8 of 25 Old 10-11-2013, 02:37 PM
Rock God
 
Daniel_M's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Arizoner
Age: 35
Posts: 998
Garage
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by unlimitedjk13 View Post
I appreciate the response......and roltide thanks cause all those is exactly wat I meant!.....I know a lot of owners want a lift but cant afford the extra cost of a real nice setup just yet.....I dnt mind rk products I just want a problem free complete kit right now and if a 3inch is better than a 4inch cost wise then id be leaning towards that!
What’s not complete about a RK kit?? Buy from a vendor who knows their shit and you will get a complete kit.

Sounds like you need a ton more research. Just because Procomp, Zone and RC look complete, they aren’t at that height. They are also generally considered budget brands, like you get what you pay for.

3” really doesn’t do it any better. You still need the exhaust spacers since you have a 2012+ and you may impact you front driveshaft boot while wheeling. You would probably still need a front trackbar and rear trackbar tower at 3”. If you do just a little research you will find that you can fit 35’s easily under a 2.5” lift.

If you are on an extremely tight budget go with a 2.5” budget boost with some shocks.

-Dan

2008 JK X: Sold
Daniel_M is offline  
post #9 of 25 Old 10-11-2013, 04:40 PM Thread Starter
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Age: 31
Posts: 15
Feedback: 0 reviews

I would buy rk if its complete..id safely say with 600.00 to spare im just looking at wat other jk owners would buy with that budget.
unlimitedjk13 is offline  
post #10 of 25 Old 10-11-2013, 05:00 PM
V8 dreams
 
jvandy50's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: jonesboro, ar
Posts: 3,553
Feedback: 0 reviews

i did a budget 4" at first, rancho kit. it rode great once i added an adj trackbar to center my axle back and got rid of the drop pitman. but then my driveshaft took a dump, then i needed control arms to adjust and keep my new driveshaft happy...and it seemed to go on and on and on. would have been better off and cheaper to spend more up front, i ended up goin rk in the end and the only thing i had to get that wasn't in their kit was bumpstops (since you need to check your individual clearances before you know how much you need)


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
2010 Silver JKU
jvandy50 is offline  
post #11 of 25 Old 10-11-2013, 05:17 PM
Granite Guru
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 315
Feedback: 0 reviews

Why 4'' of lift?

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
nj jk is offline  
post #12 of 25 Old 10-11-2013, 05:32 PM
JKO Addict!
 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: CT
Age: 41
Posts: 5,705
Feedback: 7 reviews

Complete is dependent on lift height.

You can buy a complete bb for a couple hundred then add shocks.
Small 2" lift with maybe a rear track bar bracket/bumpstops and sway bar links and shocks

4"
All 8 short arms for caster/pinion and wheel base
Front and rear track bars
Front and rear track bar brackets
Flipped drag link
Longer shocks
Longer anti sway bar links
Drive shafts
Brake lines
Bump stops
Recommended - Synergy 9/16 bolt kit

I'm assuming 35's or 37's ?
(Axle reinforcement)
Front C Gussets
Front Sleeves or truss
Ball joints (stock crap)
Rear cromo axles ( stock flanges crap)

Sure I'm forgetting some things ?





Sent from AutoGuide.com App

2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers
kjeeper10 is offline  
post #13 of 25 Old 10-11-2013, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Age: 31
Posts: 15
Feedback: 0 reviews

Jkeeper10 thats good info..wat else would make that 4" a true complete kit and ill save up and newbies can use that aswell to start there savings.

nj jk I always wanted a 4 to 6 inch with 37s and some gearings as a youth..my dream build but a dd

budget wise im almost sold to a bb 2.5 with 35"s

sorry guys im use to static drops..air ride suspension..and performance 4cyl race motors.im tryna learn fast as the trails are more exciting on the weekends then the 1/4 mile strip.
unlimitedjk13 is offline  
post #14 of 25 Old 10-11-2013, 08:32 PM
Rock God
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Peachland, Okanagan valley, BC
Posts: 1,060
Feedback: 0 reviews

I would add a sector shaft support bracket. jks double shear and their trackbar looks to be the way to go. or get hydraulic ram kit right away. taking the load of the steering box is pretty important. I didn't and now I am replacing the box already.

also would add the ARTEC truss. I want to add that to my axle that is already gusseted and sleeved. I feel my axle is a wet noodle.

4" is at the point where a front driveshaft is a must. also the steering geometry must be corrected. you can get away with it for a little while but you will notice a difference in handling and also when flexing the passenger side down you will prevent the shock from hitting the frame.

4" is really a handful to get done right and money.

JKUR auto | 5:38 | tires 36"x17 wheels 9"x4.5"bs | TF 6"| ASFIR bumpers, skids | SuperWinch EPi9.5 | RCV shafts | SC traildash | Xenon fenders | OBA York

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
JeepUpKeep37s is offline  
post #15 of 25 Old 10-11-2013, 10:41 PM Thread Starter
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Age: 31
Posts: 15
Feedback: 0 reviews

Hhmm speaking of axles...my own has a dana 30?would it be alright to get 5.18 or 5.38 using the stock housing with some bolt on armor??....also wat do u mean by sleeving??

Ok so realisticly teraflexs bb 2.5 is a straight bolt on with no driveshaft rubbing and my alignment would be fine?wat about the exhaust I heard it needs to be modified on the 12 and 13 models..or do these only apply to 3 inch and up lifts?

hey assasin im digging ur setup....nice.

Last edited by unlimitedjk13; 10-11-2013 at 10:46 PM.
unlimitedjk13 is offline  
post #16 of 25 Old 10-11-2013, 10:57 PM
JKO Addict!
 
Abacabb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Fishersville, VA
Posts: 2,261
Feedback: 1 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by unlimitedjk13 View Post
Hhmm speaking of axles...my own has a dana 30?would it be alright to get 5.18 or 5.38 using the stock housing with some bolt on armor??....also wat do u mean by sleeving??

Ok so realisticly teraflexs bb 2.5 is a straight bolt on with no driveshaft rubbing and my alignment would be fine?wat about the exhaust I heard it needs to be modified on the 12 and 13 models..or do these only apply to 3 inch and up lifts?

hey assasin im digging ur setup....nice.
I think it'd be best for you to actually research this and then come back before you start wasting thousands of dollars.

Or... Do nothing, Waste thousands of dollars, Hate how your Jeep drives, Come to forum crying about how shitty your Jeep drives after xyz brand lift, Sell your Jeep and buy a Prius.

:2cents:


2012 Jeep Wrangler - Gecko
3.5" Rock Krawler X Factor
40x13.5 Nitto Mud Grapplers / 17" Fuel Hostage
Poison Spyder Brawler Lite / Poison Spyder Rocker Knockers
Poison Spyder RockBrawler w/ Tire Carrier



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



Quote:
Originally Posted by 2k2wranglerx View Post
and yet... canada still sucks worse

we'd make fun of your prime minister if we could... unfortunately nobody's ever heard of him!

Last edited by Abacabb; 10-11-2013 at 11:01 PM.
Abacabb is offline  
post #17 of 25 Old 10-11-2013, 11:07 PM Thread Starter
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Age: 31
Posts: 15
Feedback: 0 reviews

Lol I seroiusly had a prius.
unlimitedjk13 is offline  
post #18 of 25 Old 10-12-2013, 02:58 AM
JKO Addict!
 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: CT
Age: 41
Posts: 5,705
Feedback: 7 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by unlimitedjk13 View Post
Lol I seroiusly had a prius.
Lol... Nothing wrong with honesty. What I like is you are actually taking the advice given.
Some folks just don't want to hear it. Then cry (like mentioned) when the jeep has DW.

Sleeves are tubes that are pressed into the housing to add strength. I don't no what's easier to install. I would think a truss if you know how to weld. C gussets are safe assurance. The factory upper C is pretty weak. Add larger/heavier tires, one is asking for trouble.

if you do decide on a BB. A good set of front lower adjustable/longer fixed control arms or control arm drop brackets will fix any lost caster issues. Drive it around first ... If you feel you need caster correction you can easily add later.
The brackets are a great option and cheap. They drop both front CA's by the frame and run then almost Flat with the ground. Awesome for drivability but you will lose some ground clearance if playing in the rocks.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App

2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers
kjeeper10 is offline  
post #19 of 25 Old 10-12-2013, 05:25 AM Thread Starter
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Age: 31
Posts: 15
Feedback: 0 reviews

Kjeeper......im new plus any advice will benefit me and whoever who has the same questions.im sure you all have different point of views.

as for as camber or castor...wouldnt the bb kit hold me enough without the adj. Arms?if I can drive at least for a year until I get enough for all?

As far as reinforcing the axles... definately I need to compensate for the weight.....I can weld brackets and such aint a prob but ima keep it a road queen until I upgrade.

About 360.00 for the 2.5 kit and 2800.00 for the 35s.
unlimitedjk13 is offline  
post #20 of 25 Old 10-12-2013, 05:42 AM
Rock God
 
Rolltidejk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Tucson, AZ
Age: 39
Posts: 1,080
Feedback: 0 reviews

In all seriousness if I had to do it all over again. I would have wheeled it, wheeled it some more, wheeled with other people and took notes on what works, what doesn't, what's helpful, what's not. What works for me might not work for you. So before you pull the trigger, use it and start from there. Unless your crawlin the mall parking lot than game on!

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
Rolltidejk is offline  
post #21 of 25 Old 10-12-2013, 08:35 AM
JKO Addict!
 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: CT
Age: 41
Posts: 5,705
Feedback: 7 reviews

Lol ^

Drive it first. You have about a 1* range in stock caster. Some people are fine at 2.5" other complain and need correction.

Camber is not adjustable and not affected by lift.



Sent from AutoGuide.com App

2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers
kjeeper10 is offline  
post #22 of 25 Old 10-12-2013, 08:41 AM
A JKO DICK
 
ASSFROW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Mt. Airy, MD
Age: 49
Posts: 3,681
Garage
Feedback: 1 reviews

Well, I'm going to say it. If I had it to do all over I wouldn't buy a kit. None of them seem to do everything the way I want.

Here is what I would do to start.

This gets you what comes in most basic kits, but you will be able to add on to QUALITY parts as your build continues instead of REPLACING them.

I would hold off on a track bar, but know it will need to be replaced. If you wheel you will destroy yours at some point, but IMO there is no reason to replace it until it's bent or an end is fubar.

3 inch Synergy springs.
Rancho RS9000xl shocks.
Synergy front track bar.
JKS rear track bar bracket(any quality brand will work).
Extended brake lines.
Hockey pucks for front bump stops.
Rear bump stops(whatever brand floats your boat).
Extended sway bar links. Do some research here, you may want disconnects for the front and there are tons of brands out there.
Exhaust spacer.
C-gussets.
Programmer(you will need to do something to correct speedo, etc.)

Buy each part as you can afford them and wheel it stock until you have it all. You will learn from others what works and what direction you want to go, but I think the things listed above are a solid base to build on.

Next depending on budget I would add front lower adjustable control arms or front control arm drop brackets. Both will help with handling by getting some caster back. You will probably replace the brackets down the road with arms.

Followed by:
Synergy sector shaft brace.
Synergy front upper track bar bracket.
Adjustable rear track bar.(my preference again is Synergy, but there are lots to choose from)

At this point if you've been wheeling you're probably going to start thinking about other things like bumpers, a winch, a better way to tote your bigger spare around, lighting and all kinds of stuff and if your rig wheels & handles well, have at it. You can add the next things whenever and it will just make it work better. By now you've probably already had to replace the track bar, so it won't be listed anywhere(well almost).

Next:
Control arms as budget allows.
Ram assist for steering(if you haven't replaced your track bar, do it first).

At any point you can do a raised front track bar bracket and drag link flip(again my preference is Synergy), but with 3" of lift you will be trading up travel for handling. It will handle better, but you sacrifice suspension up travel in the front and it may not even be necessary if you are happy with your handling.

As for the axles I'm kind of a break and upgrade guy. I don't plan to spend shit to improve the strength of my D30. I'll save my money and buy a Dynatrack ProRock Unlimited D44 or Terefex D44. In the mean time I'll buy used replacements from the forum if I break anything(which I have not, yet). If I bend the 30, it's just an excuse to buy the 44. For the rear axle if you have the extra money throw in some better shafts, if the budget is still tight buy a used one from the forum to use as a trail spare until you can afford an upgrade.

Gears & lockers, you will figure out what you want/need as you wheel. I wouldn't do anything until you've wheeled for a while. I have an 07 with open diffs and 4:10's and have never been stuck or not been able to get wherever I needed to. That may be different for you and certainly is for many others, just depends on what your doing with your rig.

There's also a shit ton of other stuff you may want or need as you go, limiting straps, shock relocation brackets,.......... The list is endless, but you will only know things like that as you drive and learn.

Good luck with whatever you do.

I'm sure I forgot something, but the fuckers here will certainly point it out.

Long ass post over.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Sams Misguided Child View Post
What is wrong with stupid people? Never mind
Quote:
Originally Posted by StubEXrube View Post
If I'm gonna kiss a man, I want it to be hard and rough... not gay!

Last edited by ASSFROW; 10-12-2013 at 08:45 AM.
ASSFROW is offline  
post #23 of 25 Old 10-12-2013, 08:54 AM
JKO Addict!
 
thedirtman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: southwest reno, nv
Age: 51
Posts: 4,408
Feedback: 0 reviews

I put this little write up on another forum for people just like you that are new to jeeps and think they want a lift but are not sure how or why. Its not an end all do it this way write up but will give you a nice overview of your suspension and how it works.

http://www.jkfreaks.com/forums/showt...ur-getting-one

Some build info here:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


[COLOR="Red"]New to jeeps, check this link
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
thedirtman is offline  
post #24 of 25 Old 10-12-2013, 09:12 AM
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Age: 32
Posts: 23
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
I put this little write up on another forum for people just like you that are new to jeeps and think they want a lift but are not sure how or why. Its not an end all do it this way write up but will give you a nice overview of your suspension and how it works.

http://www.jkfreaks.com/forums/showt...ur-getting-one
Great write up, tons of info in there and many questions I had were answered.
Tedro is offline  
post #25 of 25 Old 10-12-2013, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Age: 31
Posts: 15
Feedback: 0 reviews

This is all great...I have a lot to learn...you guys are so helpful and I need to wheel more to understand wats needed.lifts gearing arms....man...all I can say is thanks....

and thanks to all u guys for being descriptive and patient.
unlimitedjk13 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome