Pinion Angle - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 Old 10-10-2013, 04:16 AM Thread Starter
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Pinion Angle

I am in the process of replacing my driveshafts and want to do everything right. Im fairly sure I will be going with Tatton shafts but am concerned about pinion angle. I have a Rancho 4" Sport lift which is supposed to maintain factory geometry but i do not know if this applies to the driveshaft. Does anybody have experience with this lift?


Below is the list of components on the Sport Lift:

Front and rear coil springs
Uses O.E. pitman arm
Front adjustable track bar included
Extended length front sway bar end link
Upgraded front and rear bump stop spacer
Front extended length brake lines included
Control arm relocation bracket
Rear axle track bar bracket
Rear brake line drop brackets
Rear sway bar spacers included


As always, Thank you for your help + time!

2009, 2 Door X, Rancho 4" Sport Lift w/ 9000xl shocks, 35" Firestone Destination MTR on Spidertrax spacers Bulldog Front Bumper w/XRC8 Winch, LoD Rear Bumper, FinishLineWest Rock Sliders, 5.13 G2's, ARB Rear diff cover, LineX'd tub, JL Clean Sweep, JL 900/5 Amp, JL C5 components in front, JL Marine MX-770's in soundbar, JL FS-110 Marine sub, Tuffy security deck, HID's in Cibie's, Piaa 520s
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post #2 of 15 Old 10-10-2013, 09:05 AM
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There is not a lift out there that will maintain the factory geometry. If it has adjustable arms it should not be a problem getting your pinion angles right.
Fixed arms with bracket are not going to let you change pinion angles.

Some build info here:
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Last edited by thedirtman; 10-10-2013 at 09:22 AM.
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post #3 of 15 Old 10-10-2013, 09:39 AM
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you have 2-door or 4-door?

I had 4" Rancho Lift. I had to rotate my rear Axle pretty far to get the CV Driveshaft angle correct. To keep my springs straight I cut off the factory lower mounts and installed JKS adjustable mounts. 2-doors need to rotate the axle more the 4-doors.

2009 JK - 2DR - 6SPD - 1/2 Doors
4.88 G2 Gears / Warn XD9000i / Custom bumpers & Swing Gate
XRC Rock Rails / 35" Kumho's on Black Rock Vipers
2.5" Mutt Lift / Rubicon T-Case / E-DISCO / VIAIR OBA
Rear CV Driveshaft / Rear Detroit Locker / Front Aussie
Teraflex Sleeves / Gussets / Nitro Chromoly Axles
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post #4 of 15 Old 10-10-2013, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmhines View Post
you have 2-door or 4-door?

I had 4" Rancho Lift. I had to rotate my rear Axle pretty far to get the CV Driveshaft angle correct. To keep my springs straight I cut off the factory lower mounts and installed JKS adjustable mounts. 2-doors need to rotate the axle more the 4-doors.
I have a 2 door. What is involved in rotating the axle? . . .

2009, 2 Door X, Rancho 4" Sport Lift w/ 9000xl shocks, 35" Firestone Destination MTR on Spidertrax spacers Bulldog Front Bumper w/XRC8 Winch, LoD Rear Bumper, FinishLineWest Rock Sliders, 5.13 G2's, ARB Rear diff cover, LineX'd tub, JL Clean Sweep, JL 900/5 Amp, JL C5 components in front, JL Marine MX-770's in soundbar, JL FS-110 Marine sub, Tuffy security deck, HID's in Cibie's, Piaa 520s
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post #5 of 15 Old 10-10-2013, 12:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanNEBTD View Post
I have a 2 door. What is involved in rotating the axle? . . .
lengthening/shortening the upper/lower control arms


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post #6 of 15 Old 10-10-2013, 12:11 PM
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If you want to run a CV shaft you need to buy some upper adjustable control arms for the rear. A 4" lift on a 2 door does require a CV shaft in the rear. You can run factory on the front.

2009 JK - 2DR - 6SPD - 1/2 Doors
4.88 G2 Gears / Warn XD9000i / Custom bumpers & Swing Gate
XRC Rock Rails / 35" Kumho's on Black Rock Vipers
2.5" Mutt Lift / Rubicon T-Case / E-DISCO / VIAIR OBA
Rear CV Driveshaft / Rear Detroit Locker / Front Aussie
Teraflex Sleeves / Gussets / Nitro Chromoly Axles
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post #7 of 15 Old 10-10-2013, 04:46 PM
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Yea front is going to be a fine line between caster and pinion. Shoot for stock 4* but depending on lift height you might have to favor pinion.
Longer lowers or shorter uppers.

I'm still somehow running my stock shaft w/ 3.5" lift on a 2 door. Longer uppers will raise the pinion up. You want the Pinion a couple degrees lower then the DS.

Obviously all 8 arms are the way to go for wheelbase and pinion Angles.




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2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers
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post #8 of 15 Old 10-10-2013, 04:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Yea front is going to be a fine line between caster and pinion. Shoot for stock 4* but depending on lift height you might have to favor pinion.
Longer lowers or shorter uppers.

I'm still somehow running my stock shaft w/ 3.5" lift on a 2 door. Longer uppers will raise the pinion up. You want the Pinion a couple degrees lower then the DS.

Obviously all 8 arms are the way to go for wheelbase and pinion Angles.

Edit: does the kit use their drop brackets . I am running Rancho drop brackets at 3.5 and my pinion angle is 1.5 with a Adams front DS. No vibrations but doesn't mean the same for everybody.




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2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers
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post #9 of 15 Old 10-10-2013, 05:07 PM
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TBH I would skip the shaft unless yours is shot and spend the money on some shorter springs. I have the 4 inch Rancho kit and it's too tall for a 2 door. My next investment will be hydro assist then either MetalCloak 3.5 springs or Synergy 3 inch springs. You will HAVE to move your rear spring perches to rotate the rear axle enough to get the pinion correct. You will either have to cut and reweld your perches back on or buy JKS adjustable perches, but the JKS perches will not work with the Rancho rear track bar bracket. You will need to get the JKS rear track bar bracket.


Yo, what's up Kjeeper10?

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post #10 of 15 Old 10-10-2013, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ASSFROW View Post
TBH I would skip the shaft unless yours is shot and spend the money on some shorter springs. I have the 4 inch Rancho kit and it's too tall for a 2 door. My next investment will be hydro assist then either MetalCloak 3.5 springs or Synergy 3 inch springs. You will HAVE to move your rear spring perches to rotate the rear axle enough to get the pinion correct. You will either have to cut and reweld your perches back on or buy JKS adjustable perches, but the JKS perches will not work with the Rancho rear track bar bracket. You will need to get the JKS rear track bar bracket.


Yo, what's up Kjeeper10?
Same shit more corn. You ?

MC now has a 2.5 for 2 door. If your rig is lighter 3-3.5 ish.

He can try wedges too. Not ideal but some correction.


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2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers

Last edited by kjeeper10; 10-10-2013 at 05:53 PM.
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post #11 of 15 Old 10-11-2013, 06:59 AM
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I also ditched my Rancho 4" lift for RK 2.5" springs after about 2 years of use. The Rancho did make th 2-door very high ... and although it looked cool .. I wanted to lower my center of gravity so there wasn't so much pucker factory on hills and ledges.

2009 JK - 2DR - 6SPD - 1/2 Doors
4.88 G2 Gears / Warn XD9000i / Custom bumpers & Swing Gate
XRC Rock Rails / 35" Kumho's on Black Rock Vipers
2.5" Mutt Lift / Rubicon T-Case / E-DISCO / VIAIR OBA
Rear CV Driveshaft / Rear Detroit Locker / Front Aussie
Teraflex Sleeves / Gussets / Nitro Chromoly Axles
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post #12 of 15 Old 10-11-2013, 07:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post

He can try wedges too. Not ideal but some correction.


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with the 4", yeah, wedges may only help a little.
RK makes wedges, some others do too. They helped my 3.5 RK suspension, got my axle moved back 1".

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post #13 of 15 Old 10-11-2013, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanNEBTD View Post
I am in the process of replacing my driveshafts and want to do everything right. Im fairly sure I will be going with Tatton shafts but am concerned about pinion angle. I have a Rancho 4" Sport lift which is supposed to maintain factory geometry but i do not know if this applies to the driveshaft. Does anybody have experience with this lift?


Below is the list of components on the Sport Lift:

Front and rear coil springs
Uses O.E. pitman arm
Front adjustable track bar included
Extended length front sway bar end link
Upgraded front and rear bump stop spacer
Front extended length brake lines included
Control arm relocation bracket
Rear axle track bar bracket
Rear brake line drop brackets
Rear sway bar spacers included


As always, Thank you for your help + time!
You will need some adjustable control arms for sure to get the pinion angle in check. We shoot for the pinion to be 2-3 degrees lower then the driveshaft. On a 2 door with that much lift as some people have stated you may want to look at coil wedges or rotating the spring bucket on the axle as well. Let us know if you have any questions about any of our products!

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post #14 of 15 Old 10-11-2013, 10:46 AM
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FWIW, I've run RK coil wedges on my '09 JKUR w/TF 4" lift for 4 1/2 years with no issues.

'09 JKRU. 4" Teraflex long arm, Teraflex R44 housing, Teraflex / Fox Resis, Poly Performance skids, Nemesis Billy Rockers, Nemesis flares, 37" ATZ P3s on 17" 5x5.5" Trailready HDs, Spyntec hubs, Teraflex BBK, Mopar BBK master/booster, Superior front & Alloy USA rear axle shafts, CTMs, Reids, Synergy drag link & tie rod, WTOR hydro-boosted steering, 5.38s, TF Dual Rate front bar, TF bumpers, Warn Powerplant, Tom Woods shafts, AA xfer case cable, Kilby canister relo, RH4x4 cage.
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post #15 of 15 Old 10-11-2013, 12:09 PM
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RK coil wedges won't do it. Been there done that. I have a set in the box somewhere that were on for about a week. Springs were still bowed enough to hit the track bar once my pinion was adjusted. The Rancho springs lift the 2 doors about 5.5 inches, it's just to much. It sucks, because they actually ride nice and barely sagged with my bumpers, carrier, 35 spare, winch and hardtop when it's on.

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