Rough Country 4" Death wobble - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 Old 09-24-2013, 10:15 AM Thread Starter
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Rough Country 4" Death wobble

My friend is running a 2007 JK 2dr with a RC 4" lift P/N: 682S and a RC dual steering stabilizer on 285/75R-16 BF all terrains. The Jeep was brought into the dealer for an alignment after the lift/tires were installed.

This thing is a death trap to drive on the road, you are constantly fighting with the steering wheel and when you take your foot off the gas doing approx. 50pmh, the front end dives and tries to make a run for the ditch. The Jeep was never smashed or done any extreme offroading.

Any suggestions?
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post #2 of 15 Old 09-24-2013, 10:43 AM
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If a vehicle is properly setup you do not really need the steering stabilizers.

Are the track bars properly installed and tightened? Is the alignment correct? I know a 4" RC lift will most likely net about 4.75" without any armor and it has nothing to really help with the control arm problem.

2005 Jeep Wrangler TJ Unlimited Rubicon
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post #3 of 15 Old 09-24-2013, 10:56 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Demlockian View Post
If a vehicle is properly setup you do not really need the steering stabilizers.

Are the track bars properly installed and tightened? Is the alignment correct? I know a 4" RC lift will most likely net about 4.75" without any armor and it has nothing to really help with the control arm problem.
The 4" RC uses the factory track bars and they are torqued to spec. The rig also has Smittybilt bumpers front/rear. If it makes a difference he is using 16x8 rims with 5" backspacing.

Last edited by bmac901; 09-24-2013 at 10:59 AM.
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post #4 of 15 Old 09-24-2013, 11:08 AM
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This may sound stupid but he did install track bar brackets right? Could a bad shock cause this?

2005 Jeep Wrangler TJ Unlimited Rubicon
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post #5 of 15 Old 09-24-2013, 11:08 AM
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You should really go through the Planman check list in the write-up section, but I would put money that if he did these things, his front end would tighten up tremendously:

Lose the drop pitman arm (assuming it has one)

Add:
Draglink flip kit - Synergy
Balljoints - Synergy, Alloy USA, Teraflex, etc.
AEV drop brackets or Adjustable front control arms (reputable brand)

Also check bushings on the track bar and the mounting holes for ovaling and check the TREs on the tie rod.


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post #6 of 15 Old 09-24-2013, 11:11 AM
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He shouldn't be running the stock trackbars. At that height he should have adjustables. Dual stabilizers are useless and he needs to get adjustable control arms.

-Dan

2008 JK X: Sold
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post #7 of 15 Old 09-24-2013, 11:19 AM
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I believe RC offers a money back guarantee. Use that as you / your friend are not happy with the lift kits performance (raise hell if needed). Then go out and purchase a Rock Krawler or Metalcloak lift kit. It will cost you more money up front but everything will be dialed in correctly. I thought of getting a $400 Zone Off Road lift for my Wrangler but after doing my research decided to save for another month and get the Metalcloak Dual Rate. I figured I would need to upgrade the Zone Off Road kit with control arms, brake lines, and other parts anyway.

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post #8 of 15 Old 09-24-2013, 05:27 PM
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I had this problem with my 3.25 inch rough country kit, but off course I was running stock 31s, problem disappeared when I simply bought my new bigger nitto 35's on 17x9. 8 hole black rock rims, I believe most common wobble is associated largely to too much lift vs how wide the tire your running, your buddy went too much lift for 285? Throws off everything. You never get a lift unless you got the tires to mount, people get a lift too look cool, then don't spend cash on tires that are wider, hence more stable, and this is the consequence, next would be a messed up or loose track bar
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post #9 of 15 Old 09-24-2013, 05:54 PM
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Lifting exposes all your weak points in your control arm bushings, track bar bushings, tre's, ball joints, steering stabilizer (whether it is a new double or not). Lifting on stock stuff with mileage could be all the problem, plus alignment not done right with too much toe in and not enough castor.

I believe you do need stronger trackbars, save up for ball joints, get driveshafts ( yep you will need those eventually too). Basically have $5000 in the bank. I would recommend a sector shaft support as well. You wouldn't believe the movement in that.

So return the kit and figure out your goals and budget. Then do it right.

JKUR auto | 5:38 | tires 36"x17 wheels 9"x4.5"bs | TF 6"| ASFIR bumpers, skids | SuperWinch EPi9.5 | RCV shafts | SC traildash | Xenon fenders | OBA York

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post #10 of 15 Old 09-24-2013, 06:41 PM
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Pics of the front suspension?

2012 JKU Altitude
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland
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post #11 of 15 Old 09-24-2013, 09:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmac901 View Post
My friend is running a 2007 JK 2dr with a RC 4" lift P/N: 682S and a RC dual steering stabilizer on 285/75R-16 BF all terrains. The Jeep was brought into the dealer for an alignment after the lift/tires were installed.

This thing is a death trap to drive on the road, you are constantly fighting with the steering wheel and when you take your foot off the gas doing approx. 50pmh, the front end dives and tries to make a run for the ditch. The Jeep was never smashed or done any extreme offroading.

Any suggestions?
That particular lift is a poor design--especially for 2 dr JKs--partly due to the rear driveshaft angle.

Designs with drop pitman arms are a bad idea. RC cuts corners to save costs and does a drop pitman arm with a trackbar relocation bracket instead of either an adjustable front trackbar or a drag link flip kit with longer front extended bumpstops.

In any event, the problem is most likely improper installation and insufficient torque specs for the trackbar relocation bracket.

The control arm and trackbar bushings sound like they are pre-loaded/twisting/binding to the wrong ride height because they were not all loosened for the install. Then, the bolts should not be torqued until the full weight of the vehicle is on the ground at the new ride height so that the rubber bushings are pinched in between the brackets in a neutral position.

Sounds like not only was the design bad and the install poor, but the rig was driven that way for a while, potentially damaging other components.

Read my write-up thread and watch the 2 videos on Diagnosis.


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post #12 of 15 Old 09-24-2013, 09:30 PM
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I had the same problem. I fixed mine. Do the 9/16th grade 8 bolt upgrade, I got a beefy ass jks adjustable track bar.....lose the drop pittman arm.......lose the track bar drop bracket....you dont need it with an adjustable t bar......check your ball joints....I replaced all 4 just my lowers were bad..very bad....loosen up your lower and upper control arms and shake your jeep I used my bumper to move it up and down and side to side to unbined my bushings... my ball joints were my final dw kill. Last but not least get adjustable lower control arms to get your caster back to a good tolerance. Then thank planman for helping me fix mine.

"WARRIOR"
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post #13 of 15 Old 09-24-2013, 09:36 PM
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Planman YOUR MY HERO! Thank you for all of your help. You were right beside me through my dw fight .......thank you!

"WARRIOR"
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post #14 of 15 Old 09-25-2013, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07JKU View Post
Planman YOUR MY HERO! Thank you for all of your help. You were right beside me through my dw fight .......thank you!
Thank you. Really appreciate the kudos.


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post #15 of 15 Old 09-28-2013, 07:46 AM
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I purchased my 07 JKU with a 4" RC lift and omg it drove so horrible, scary. The first ting I did was change out the drop pitman arm to a factory unit and then a RK bomb proof front track bar. the biggest problem I had was with the front track bar drop bracket. One of the bolts would stetch just a little and on certain turns it would make a pop noise and the wheel be off center. I tried many different bolts all grade 8 and they all stretched over time. RC lifts are shit.

2007 unlimited X
rough country 4" lift
18" KMC Rockstars
superchips flashpaq
1 ton Offset TRE's with 1.5" X .25" wall DOM tubing Tie Rod
1.5" X .25" wall DOM tubing Draglink with 7/8" hiem's
Adam's Front Driveshaft


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